Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#11
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Tinkerntom" wrote in message oups.com... No Spam wrote: "Tinkerntom" wrote in message oups.com... Snip Ken, the only thing I would question, is that where the dowel comes out of the pipe, would represent a sheer line. All the load on the extended dowel would be concentrated at the sheer line as a breaking force. You would not be able to take advantage really of the flex of the dowel inside the tube, to dissipate the energy as a flexing force, and it would tend to break at that sheer line. You are right on though about hearing the dowel break. Another function of the safety line that I recommended, is that if the extension collapses, the boat would not fall clear to the ground. Considering the car paint though, it might be equally important to use some cushions in strategic spots in case the boat fell. You could just hang a long noodle on the side of the car to take the bang. or like Cyli indicated, you just don't worry about the paint! ![]() TnT You are correct about the shear at the point of entry but I think a hardwood dowel of this size will take this force without complaint. My uncle used to hang an old wood extension ladder on dowel pegs and it took 2 people to lift that thing down. The flex in the exposed dowel would take the force of the jolt of rough handling of the boat though. I did some google searching but cannot find the shear strength of a dowel but I would guess that a 1 inch hardwood dowel would take at least 500 pounds of pure shear force before it would break. I have a 1 1/2 inch dowel here and I just stood on the end of it with the other end wedged under my work bench -- yep lifted the bench right up - the dowel flexed a little but easily handled me 275 lbs out about a foot from the support. Ken Ken, Wilf, is talking about extending the dowel out 28", see what loading the dowel breaks under now. This will prevent Wilf from falling off his workbench, and you seemed more inclined to do this sort of stuff! ![]() Unfortunately I don't have enough dowel to anchor it and have 28 inches left over or I would gladly give it a try - I've ended up on my backside in the name of learning before. I think it would break if I were to put my full weight at 28 inches out, but that is not what we are talking about when we are loading a boat. You will have much less than half my weight and it will be more distributed. At any rate I think the schedule 40 pipe on the car is the ticket because it will not rust and it should hold just fine. The only thing to do now is find something that fits inside it that will take the weight. Get some conduit and some dowel and anything else that is lying around and see what happens. Good luck. Ken |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General |