OK Jamesgangnc-you switched to Gmail which I filter out entirely.
Honing in-situ is something I've done dozens of times, with 100%
success.. I tuck an oiled string around the piston gap, which prevents
debris from getting down the gap into the #1 ring gland. Also, a
thourogh wipe with a solvent rag until clean on the bore. Note you can
only do this with a Flex Hone (ball type).
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:57:11 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Nope. Just top end o/haul. I expect you ask because I said 'hone the
cylinders'? I use a ball-type hone to break the glaze only. Not to
actually try to straighten and refinish the bore. The glaze-break hone
in-situ reseats the rings, provides additional texture for oil
retention on the cylinder wall.
JR

On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 19:49:26 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

So you're removing the block as well?

"JR North" wrote in message
...
My machinist is going to go through the heads. He's great. I will hone the
cylinders also while the heads are off. Since I had to pull the FWC and
P/S-Alt package to remove the left head, I yanked the water pump also for
replacement, and am going to pull the balancer and timing cover. The cover
is pretty rusty, so refinish there and new front seal. A lot of the
fasteners on the engine were not SS, and very corroded, so a comprehensive
replacement of all the steel fasteners also. I figure this scenario is
fortuitous; a couple more years and most of those fasteners would have
just snapped off.
JR


wrote:

On Jul 25, 11:21 am, JR North wrote:

The result of the failed right bank manifold, allowing sea water to run
in the exhaust port into the cylinder. That's what seized the valve
also. Only 2 cylinders show rust on the right bank, none on the left.
JR




That makes sense. So what's the plan?

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