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The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the
new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360°. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR JR Said: So, after I got home from July 4th cruising, I flushed the engine on the muffs. Shut it off and went to restart about 30 min later. Hydrolock. Pulled the plugs, and sure enough-clear water out of several cyls. The starter sounds like a garbage truck now also. ****. I should consider myself lucky-this is only the second set of manifolds in 18 years, 95% salt water, due to careful and thorough flushing. I found the best deal on manifold/riser kit he (free shipping) http://stores.ebay.com/Doug-Russell-Marine and cheap price on NEW Marine starter for Mercruiser 5.0 he http://stores.ebay.com/Rareelectrical and, lowest cost on exhaust boots (I'm doing the whole thing here...) http://www.go2marine.com/ No affiliations... I pulled the manifolds last night, and squirted about 30cc ATF into the cylinders and cranked it through. Because I applied anti-seize compound to the manifold and riser bolts on the last job (1996) all the bolts came right out. In fact, after loosening, they could be screwed out by fingers. I don't have any such hope for the starter bolts-they're original and I'm dreading pulling the starter tonight. JR JR Said: What a BITCH. I had to custom make a special tool to get the starter bolts loose-will post pics soon so youse manly guys that get your hands dirty can benifit from it. Absolutely no way I could get them to budge with just a wrench. I'm really amazed they came out at all. Prolly a good thing I'm doing it now; Cruis;n Rulz! is 18 years old and unlikely I could get the starter out down the road at all. It would really suck to have to pull the motor to replace a starter... Anyway, waiting for all my good deals to arrive, and to get back on the water. JR HOME PAGE: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 11:28*am, JR North wrote:
As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360°. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR Man, that's quite the saga, but that's the way it goes sometimes. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 10:28*am, JR North wrote:
and cheap price on NEW Marine starter for Mercruiser 5.0 he http://stores.ebay.com/Rareelectrical $89.00 PLUS shipping.. And that's a "cheap" price on a new starter? I could have gotten you exactly the same thing at my cost of $56.11 and about $12.00 freight. Ebay stores, you gotta love 'em. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 10:38*am, wrote:
On Jul 23, 11:28*am, JR North wrote: As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360°. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR Man, that's quite the saga, but that's the way it goes sometimes.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Hey loog-meister, I know you don't need one, but just for the fun of it I called about the price of a brand new starter for your v-4 (85-115 hp.) Evinrude and it costs me $51.00 + shipping not bad, eh? |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 11:28*am, JR North wrote:
As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360°. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR JR Said: *So, after I got home from July 4th cruising, I flushed the engine on the muffs. Shut it off and went to restart about 30 min later. Hydrolock. Pulled the plugs, and sure enough-clear water out of several cyls. The starter sounds like a garbage truck now also. ****. I should consider myself lucky-this is only the second set of manifolds in 18 years, 95% salt water, due to careful and thorough flushing. I found the best deal on manifold/riser kit he (free shipping) http://stores.ebay.com/Doug-Russell-Marine and cheap price on NEW Marine starter for Mercruiser 5.0 he http://stores.ebay.com/Rareelectrical and, lowest cost on exhaust boots (I'm doing the whole thing here...) http://www.go2marine.com/ No affiliations... I pulled the manifolds last night, and squirted about 30cc ATF into the cylinders and cranked it through. Because I applied anti-seize compound to the manifold and riser bolts on the last job (1996) all the bolts came right out. In fact, after loosening, they could be screwed out by fingers. I don't have any such hope for the starter bolts-they're original and I'm dreading pulling the starter tonight. JR JR Said: What a BITCH. I had to custom *make a special tool to get the starter bolts loose-will post pics soon so youse manly guys that get your hands dirty can benifit from it. Absolutely no way I could get them to budge with just a wrench. I'm really amazed they came out at all. Prolly a good thing I'm doing it now; Cruis;n Rulz! is 18 years old and unlikely I could get the starter out down the road at all. It would really suck to have to pull the motor to replace a starter... Anyway, waiting for all my good deals to arrive, and to get back on the water. JR HOME PAGE:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth That's disappointing. You put some oil in it when you took the manifolds off so I'd have hoped for better. Next question is what did that piece of valve do to the cylinder and piston top. Going to pull both heads or just the problem one? Your compression sounds good. I'd be tempted to just replace the valve and go but 500 hours is a bit of time....... Makes me glad I boat on a lake, no salt water. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North
wrote: . Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. Triple ****. Oh - whoops. :) Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) (At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 2:02*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 23, 10:38*am, wrote: On Jul 23, 11:28*am, JR North wrote: As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360°. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR Man, that's quite the saga, but that's the way it goes sometimes.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Hey loog-meister, I know you don't need one, but just for the fun of it I called about the price of a brand new starter for your v-4 (85-115 hp.) *Evinrude and it costs me $51.00 + shipping not bad, eh?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Not bad at all, and I'll darned sure remember you when the time comes!!!! |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 2:02*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 23, 10:38*am, wrote: On Jul 23, 11:28*am, JR North wrote: As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360°. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR Man, that's quite the saga, but that's the way it goes sometimes.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Hey loog-meister, I know you don't need one, but just for the fun of it I called about the price of a brand new starter for your v-4 (85-115 hp.) *Evinrude and it costs me $51.00 + shipping not bad, eh?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I have a 1988 evinrude 25 hp that needs a starter. .what kind of price can you get on one of those? |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the
following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: |On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: | |. Now I get to pull the heads...... |Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all |that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. | |Triple ****. | |Oh - whoops. :) | |Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, |look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. | |Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) | |(At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Goal: Plausible Deniability....... -- Agent 5.00 Build 1159 Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC. Homepage http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/ Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North
wrote: As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360?. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR That's weird, since you were cranking it 2 weeks ago. What do you suppose caused it to seize? I've never heard of that happening on a 305, but you say that's not unusual. I'd like to hear the autopsy report after the stem is driven from the guide. This boating stuff is starting to scare me. --Vic |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: . Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. Triple ****. Oh - whoops. :) Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) (At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Hey, ain't you supposed to be fishing? --Vic |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
"Vic Smith" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360?. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR That's weird, since you were cranking it 2 weeks ago. What do you suppose caused it to seize? I've never heard of that happening on a 305, but you say that's not unusual. I'd like to hear the autopsy report after the stem is driven from the guide. This boating stuff is starting to scare me. --Vic Salt water in the valve guides. Rebuilders won't touch heads from sal****er boats. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Surprised me too. No way I'm gonna just pull one head, your 3/4 way
there pulling one as two, and wouldn't want a valve to seize in the other head later(when the engine is running...). I'm just gonna yank 'em both and go through them. JR wrote: That's disappointing. You put some oil in it when you took the manifolds off so I'd have hoped for better. Next question is what did that piece of valve do to the cylinder and piston top. Going to pull both heads or just the problem one? Your compression sounds good. I'd be tempted to just replace the valve and go but 500 hours is a bit of time....... Makes me glad I boat on a lake, no salt water. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 1:54*pm, wrote:
On Jul 23, 2:02*pm, Tim wrote: On Jul 23, 10:38*am, wrote: On Jul 23, 11:28*am, JR North wrote: As you will recall, In our last episode, I was preparing to install the new starter in my Merc. 5.0. I did a compression test with the old starter in place, 150 all around. After sitting 2 weeks, the new starter is in; I cranked it with the plugs out (no manifolds installed yet) And it spun 3 revolutions with a *Clack* every 360°. I thought in this brief time that possibly a tooth was sheared on the flywheel ring, but after 3 revolutions the engine locked and would not turn. ****. I was thinking maybe a socket I had holding the Qjet choke open had somehow fallen into the intake manifold and wedged an intake valve open. Ok. I put a chain wrench on the balancer and found I could rotate the engine backwards, but would lock at the same point forwards. I pulled the valve covers, expecting to find an offending intake valve hung open, with slop in the rocker arm as a result. Found it, alright, but an exhaust valve, not intake. Feeling up the #4 exhaust port with my finger, I can feel the broken end of the exhaust valve stem. The valve head is loose in the combustion chamber, preventing the piston from reaching TDC. DOUBLE ****. In the 2 weeks since the compression test, the #4 exhaust valve seized in the guide, and on cranking, because the valve is at an angle with the piston, was broken off. Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. JR Man, that's quite the saga, but that's the way it goes sometimes.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Hey loog-meister, I know you don't need one, but just for the fun of it I called about the price of a brand new starter for your v-4 (85-115 hp.) *Evinrude and it costs me $51.00 + shipping not bad, eh?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I have a 1988 evinrude 25 hp that needs a starter. .what kind of price can you get on one of those?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Pricing on outboards vary from warehouse to warehouse, and J&N has them on *special* right now. Regularly my cost is $58.80 but this month they're on the sales flier for $51.50 plus shipping. You need, m'man, I'll get it headed your direction. Of course thats only one of the warehouses I'm tied in with. others may be a tad (pennies) more, or a tad (pennies) less, but still ..... What gets me is loogy's starter is bigger (not much) but is the same pricing +/- , I think because the v-4's are more popular.... |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Well, you can't go wrong pulling both. Except for another $45 head gasket.
I've occasionally flat rated the job by loosening the intake bolts on the other side and taking the problem head off without removing the intake. But there's the risk of a vacuum leak on the other side. And then you end up pulling it anyway. "JR North" wrote in message .. . Surprised me too. No way I'm gonna just pull one head, your 3/4 way there pulling one as two, and wouldn't want a valve to seize in the other head later(when the engine is running...). I'm just gonna yank 'em both and go through them. JR wrote: That's disappointing. You put some oil in it when you took the manifolds off so I'd have hoped for better. Next question is what did that piece of valve do to the cylinder and piston top. Going to pull both heads or just the problem one? Your compression sounds good. I'd be tempted to just replace the valve and go but 500 hours is a bit of time....... Makes me glad I boat on a lake, no salt water. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:10:12 -0400, Gene Kearns
wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: |On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: | |. Now I get to pull the heads...... |Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all |that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. | |Triple ****. | |Oh - whoops. :) | |Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, |look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. | |Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) | |(At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Goal: Plausible Deniability....... Damn straight. That's how I got my ETEC. :) A little fudging here, a little truth twisting there - bingo. New engine. :) |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 14:25:11 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: . Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. Triple ****. Oh - whoops. :) Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) (At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Hey, ain't you supposed to be fishing? I was - you wanna make the trip down here and go with? :) |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:10:12 -0400, Gene Kearns wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: |On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: | |. Now I get to pull the heads...... |Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all |that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. | |Triple ****. | |Oh - whoops. :) | |Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, |look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. | |Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) | |(At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Goal: Plausible Deniability....... Damn straight. That's how I got my ETEC. :) A little fudging here, a little truth twisting there - bingo. New engine. :) I thought that eTec was fifth prize in a beauty contest. First prize was a weekend in Philly. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 22:09:09 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 14:25:11 -0500, Vic Smith wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: . Now I get to pull the heads...... Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. Triple ****. Oh - whoops. :) Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) (At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Hey, ain't you supposed to be fishing? I was - you wanna make the trip down here and go with? :) I'll give you three guesses. Wait, that's yes/no so you get only two guesses. I'll make it easier. Yes, and I would if I could. --Vic --Vic |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:46:59 -0400, "Jim" wrote:
Salt water in the valve guides. Rebuilders won't touch heads from sal****er boats. That sort of cuts down your options, don't it? But why is that? I can see how the SW cooled heads might have more of the passages eaten away, but they could grind, revalve, respring, and reguide with no problem. Just make it clear future cracks aren't warranteed, same as any head rebuild. Anyway, I'm only batting .500 with shop work on heads. I don't know anything about those boat engine manifolds, but I guess that's how the salt got in the guides. The other thing that doesn't make sense to me is how the piston hit the valve, because I thought that engine was non-interference. Couldn't find that's a fact anywhere though, so maybe I'm missing something. Seems like there's big differences between car and boat engines. Think I'll get an O/B. --Vic |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:25:57 -0400, HK wrote:
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:10:12 -0400, Gene Kearns wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: |On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: | |. Now I get to pull the heads...... |Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all |that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. | |Triple ****. | |Oh - whoops. :) | |Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, |look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. | |Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) | |(At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Goal: Plausible Deniability....... Damn straight. That's how I got my ETEC. :) A little fudging here, a little truth twisting there - bingo. New engine. :) I thought that eTec was fifth prize in a beauty contest. First prize was a weekend in Philly. Geese 'em pete Harry - that was your prize. Remember? You won the Parker when you placed First in the "I am a dork and look like one contest. You had to submit an essay on why you would look like a dork in a Parker with no transom. The way you told it, you also got second and third which managed to get you the Yamaha - by default because nobody else wanted it. :) |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Bingo. First prize to Jim. It's FWC, just salt water from the failed
manifold(s) in the exhaust ports. That was why I oiled it when I pulled the manifolds. Didn't work.... JR Salt water in the valve guides. Rebuilders won't touch heads from sal****er boats. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:25:57 -0400, HK wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:10:12 -0400, Gene Kearns wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: |On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: | |. Now I get to pull the heads...... |Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all |that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. | |Triple ****. | |Oh - whoops. :) | |Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, |look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. | |Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) | |(At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Goal: Plausible Deniability....... Damn straight. That's how I got my ETEC. :) A little fudging here, a little truth twisting there - bingo. New engine. :) I thought that eTec was fifth prize in a beauty contest. First prize was a weekend in Philly. Geese 'em pete Harry - that was your prize. Remember? You won the Parker when you placed First in the "I am a dork and look like one contest. You had to submit an essay on why you would look like a dork in a Parker with no transom. The way you told it, you also got second and third which managed to get you the Yamaha - by default because nobody else wanted it. :) Dumbass Don was third prize. Nobody wanted him either. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
Remember? You won the Parker when you placed First in the "I am a dork and look like one contest. You had to submit an essay on why you would look like a dork in a Parker with no transom. Ahh, the transom routine again, considering: A. The transom on my boat is 25" only where the engine is mounted, and on either side of the motor cutout, the transom rapidly rises to about a foot higher, while the transom on your boat is about 25" high across its entire width. B. Under certain circumstances, water may come aboard either of our boats via the stern. In your case, a gallon or two of it will fill that little motor well first, and then if there is a lot more, it will simply cascade and flood over your back deck and into the cockpit, where it will be momentarily trapped under the little scuppers let it out. If that much water gets into my boat over the transom, it will flush itself out almost immediately via four substantial scuppers and if necessary over the bottom of the motor cutout. C. Since my boat has so much more freeboard than yours in the bow and from the bow to the stern, your boat is far more likely to take a greenie over the bow than mine is. Again, though, if both boats took the same wave over the bow, mine would drain faster because it can directly reach the scuppers at the stern and the transom cutout if need be, while in your boat the water would be trapped in your cockpit until the scuppers could drain it. D. Because your boat has substantially lower sides than mine, in breaking seas, your boat is far more likely to take a greenie over the side than mine is, especially if you find yourself traveling down a wave trough. And, as to design, while your boat is certainly more suited for shallow water operation with its near flat bottom, it is less suitable than mine to take on head seas without slowing waaaaay down. Both boats are relatively small and will bounce; yours bounces more. Now, which boat would I want on a typical bass lake? Yours. Except for the engine, of course: too much horsepower, ungainly mount (30" lower unit on a 25" transom that requires a bracket, right?) I'll be glad to entertain any rebuttal of yours that does not ignore the laws of physics. The usual idiotic comments from the Seven Dwarfs are not relevant. Let's see photos of your boat from the stern and from the cockpit looking sternward, and with a yardstick up against the hullsides from the deck and from the deck up against the transom. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
"hk" wrote in message . .. Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: Remember? You won the Parker when you placed First in the "I am a dork and look like one contest. You had to submit an essay on why you would look like a dork in a Parker with no transom. Ahh, the transom routine again, considering: A. The transom on my boat is 25" only where the engine is mounted, and on either side of the motor cutout, the transom rapidly rises to about a foot higher, while the transom on your boat is about 25" high across its entire width. B. Under certain circumstances, water may come aboard either of our boats via the stern. In your case, a gallon or two of it will fill that little motor well first, and then if there is a lot more, it will simply cascade and flood over your back deck and into the cockpit, where it will be momentarily trapped under the little scuppers let it out. If that much water gets into my boat over the transom, it will flush itself out almost immediately via four substantial scuppers and if necessary over the bottom of the motor cutout. C. Since my boat has so much more freeboard than yours in the bow and from the bow to the stern, your boat is far more likely to take a greenie over the bow than mine is. Again, though, if both boats took the same wave over the bow, mine would drain faster because it can directly reach the scuppers at the stern and the transom cutout if need be, while in your boat the water would be trapped in your cockpit until the scuppers could drain it. D. Because your boat has substantially lower sides than mine, in breaking seas, your boat is far more likely to take a greenie over the side than mine is, especially if you find yourself traveling down a wave trough. And, as to design, while your boat is certainly more suited for shallow water operation with its near flat bottom, it is less suitable than mine to take on head seas without slowing waaaaay down. Both boats are relatively small and will bounce; yours bounces more. Now, which boat would I want on a typical bass lake? Yours. Except for the engine, of course: too much horsepower, ungainly mount (30" lower unit on a 25" transom that requires a bracket, right?) I'll be glad to entertain any rebuttal of yours that does not ignore the laws of physics. The usual idiotic comments from the Seven Dwarfs are not relevant. Let's see photos of your boat from the stern and from the cockpit looking sternward, and with a yardstick up against the hullsides from the deck and from the deck up against the transom. Harry is not a boat designer but he plays one on Rec.Boats. I would think that If Tom thought Parker was a worthy boat, he would own a couple of them. Tom is a boatman and a pretty good fisherman. Harry is a blow hard. I think that just about covers it. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Jim wrote:
"hk" wrote in message . .. Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: Remember? You won the Parker when you placed First in the "I am a dork and look like one contest. You had to submit an essay on why you would look like a dork in a Parker with no transom. Ahh, the transom routine again, considering: A. The transom on my boat is 25" only where the engine is mounted, and on either side of the motor cutout, the transom rapidly rises to about a foot higher, while the transom on your boat is about 25" high across its entire width. B. Under certain circumstances, water may come aboard either of our boats via the stern. In your case, a gallon or two of it will fill that little motor well first, and then if there is a lot more, it will simply cascade and flood over your back deck and into the cockpit, where it will be momentarily trapped under the little scuppers let it out. If that much water gets into my boat over the transom, it will flush itself out almost immediately via four substantial scuppers and if necessary over the bottom of the motor cutout. C. Since my boat has so much more freeboard than yours in the bow and from the bow to the stern, your boat is far more likely to take a greenie over the bow than mine is. Again, though, if both boats took the same wave over the bow, mine would drain faster because it can directly reach the scuppers at the stern and the transom cutout if need be, while in your boat the water would be trapped in your cockpit until the scuppers could drain it. D. Because your boat has substantially lower sides than mine, in breaking seas, your boat is far more likely to take a greenie over the side than mine is, especially if you find yourself traveling down a wave trough. And, as to design, while your boat is certainly more suited for shallow water operation with its near flat bottom, it is less suitable than mine to take on head seas without slowing waaaaay down. Both boats are relatively small and will bounce; yours bounces more. Now, which boat would I want on a typical bass lake? Yours. Except for the engine, of course: too much horsepower, ungainly mount (30" lower unit on a 25" transom that requires a bracket, right?) I'll be glad to entertain any rebuttal of yours that does not ignore the laws of physics. The usual idiotic comments from the Seven Dwarfs are not relevant. Let's see photos of your boat from the stern and from the cockpit looking sternward, and with a yardstick up against the hullsides from the deck and from the deck up against the transom. Harry is not a boat designer but he plays one on Rec.Boats. I would think that If Tom thought Parker was a worthy boat, he would own a couple of them. Tom is a boatman and a pretty good fisherman. Harry is a blow hard. I think that just about covers it. As I stated, the usual idiotic comments from the Seven Dwarfs (and Florida Jim is a leading dwarf) are not relevant, expecially from the dwarfs who apparently do not even own boats. (Florida Jim again). |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
"DK" wrote in message ... Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:25:57 -0400, HK wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:10:12 -0400, Gene Kearns wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: |On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: | |. Now I get to pull the heads...... |Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all |that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. | |Triple ****. | |Oh - whoops. :) | |Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, |look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. | |Hell, might be time for a new engine. :) | |(At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) :) Goal: Plausible Deniability....... Damn straight. That's how I got my ETEC. :) A little fudging here, a little truth twisting there - bingo. New engine. :) I thought that eTec was fifth prize in a beauty contest. First prize was a weekend in Philly. Geese 'em pete Harry - that was your prize. Remember? You won the Parker when you placed First in the "I am a dork and look like one contest. You had to submit an essay on why you would look like a dork in a Parker with no transom. The way you told it, you also got second and third which managed to get you the Yamaha - by default because nobody else wanted it. :) Dumbass Don was third prize. Nobody wanted him either. You sure do like to sniff this unwanted butt. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:24:58 -0400, "Jim" wrote:
I would think that If Tom thought Parker was a worthy boat If they changed the color from that monkey vomit beige to white, well maybe I'd consider one. :) It's just fun tweaking Harry about his boat - he gets so defensive it's amusing. My boat is what it is - never claimed it to be something different - it's a great bay boat with decent range and a decent ride in heavier weather. And it's pretty quick which is also a plus. The fact that it's unique pleases me. My son mentioned something to me the other day and he was right - this is the first boat I've ever owned for longer than five years - I've had it for eight and I'm not ever going to get rid of it. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Thu, 24 Jul 2008 02:20:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote: It's just fun tweaking Harry about his boat - he gets so defensive it's amusing. I had never noticed that. :-)) |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 5:56 pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:46:59 -0400, "Jim" wrote: Salt water in the valve guides. Rebuilders won't touch heads from sal****er boats. That sort of cuts down your options, don't it? But why is that? I can see how the SW cooled heads might have more of the passages eaten away, but they could grind, revalve, respring, and reguide with no problem. Just make it clear future cracks aren't warranteed, same as any head rebuild. Anyway, I'm only batting .500 with shop work on heads. I don't know anything about those boat engine manifolds, but I guess that's how the salt got in the guides. The other thing that doesn't make sense to me is how the piston hit the valve, because I thought that engine was non-interference. Couldn't find that's a fact anywhere though, so maybe I'm missing something. Seems like there's big differences between car and boat engines. Think I'll get an O/B. --Vic Well, one thing is that engine heads are sort of a soft cast iron and after years of salt water exposure, the minerals of said water actually impregnate into the heads and cause the cast iron to break down. just like an old rusty iron water pipe that's laid bare to the elements over several years. So quality machine work is next to impossible |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 24, 1:20 am, Tim wrote:
On Jul 23, 5:56 pm, Vic Smith wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:46:59 -0400, "Jim" wrote: Salt water in the valve guides. Rebuilders won't touch heads from sal****er boats. That sort of cuts down your options, don't it? But why is that? I can see how the SW cooled heads might have more of the passages eaten away, but they could grind, revalve, respring, and reguide with no problem. Just make it clear future cracks aren't warranteed, same as any head rebuild. Anyway, I'm only batting .500 with shop work on heads. I don't know anything about those boat engine manifolds, but I guess that's how the salt got in the guides. The other thing that doesn't make sense to me is how the piston hit the valve, because I thought that engine was non-interference. Couldn't find that's a fact anywhere though, so maybe I'm missing something. Seems like there's big differences between car and boat engines. Think I'll get an O/B. --Vic Well, one thing is that engine heads are sort of a soft cast iron and after years of salt water exposure, the minerals of said water actually impregnate into the heads and cause the cast iron to break down. just like an old rusty iron water pipe that's laid bare to the elements over several years. So quality machine work is next to impossible Not to mention that it's a whole other volume to get into the electrolysis issue of salt water and engines..... |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Thu, 24 Jul 2008 02:20:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: It's just fun tweaking Harry about his boat - he gets so defensive it's amusing. I had never noticed that. :-)) He's very offensive, also. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 23:20:03 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: Well, one thing is that engine heads are sort of a soft cast iron and after years of salt water exposure, the minerals of said water actually impregnate into the heads and cause the cast iron to break down. just like an old rusty iron water pipe that's laid bare to the elements over several years. So quality machine work is next to impossible Never thought of that. Thanks, Tim. --Vic |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:24:58 -0400, "Jim" wrote: I would think that If Tom thought Parker was a worthy boat If they changed the color from that monkey vomit beige to white, well maybe I'd consider one. :) It's just fun tweaking Harry about his boat - he gets so defensive it's amusing. My boat is what it is - never claimed it to be something different - it's a great bay boat with decent range and a decent ride in heavier weather. And it's pretty quick which is also a plus. The fact that it's unique pleases me. My son mentioned something to me the other day and he was right - this is the first boat I've ever owned for longer than five years - I've had it for eight and I'm not ever going to get rid of it. It's good that you are happy with your boat. I'm glad you didn't have to settle for a "monkey puke" Parker. I wish you many more happy moons with your boat. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Jim wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:24:58 -0400, "Jim" wrote: I would think that If Tom thought Parker was a worthy boat If they changed the color from that monkey vomit beige to white, well maybe I'd consider one. :) It's just fun tweaking Harry about his boat - he gets so defensive it's amusing. My boat is what it is - never claimed it to be something different - it's a great bay boat with decent range and a decent ride in heavier weather. And it's pretty quick which is also a plus. The fact that it's unique pleases me. My son mentioned something to me the other day and he was right - this is the first boat I've ever owned for longer than five years - I've had it for eight and I'm not ever going to get rid of it. It's good that you are happy with your boat. I'm glad you didn't have to settle for a "monkey puke" Parker. I wish you many more happy moons with your boat. Speaking of monkey puke, do you keep track of that old wellcraft you no longer own, or did it disappear finally at the landfill? What's your current boat? Oh...that's right...you don't have one. Right? |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 23, 7:04*pm, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:25:57 -0400, HK wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:10:12 -0400, Gene Kearns wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:44:37 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: |On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 08:28:39 -0700, JR North wrote: | |. Now I get to pull the heads...... |Oh well, the engine is 18 years old, has 495 Hrs on it, and with all |that down time, a seized valve is not unusual. | |Triple ****. | |Oh - whoops. *:) | |Well, hey, look at it this way - as long as you have the heads off, |look around for cylinder scoring, slop, etc. | |Hell, might be time for a new engine. *:) | |(At least that's what I'd be telling SWMBO) *:) Goal: * * * Plausible Deniability....... Damn straight. That's how I got my ETEC. *:) A little fudging here, a little truth twisting there - bingo. New engine. *:) I thought that eTec was fifth prize in a beauty contest. First prize was a weekend in Philly. Geese 'em pete Harry - that was your prize. Remember? *You won the Parker when you placed First *in the "I am a dork and look like one contest. *You had to submit an essay on why you would look like a dork in a Parker with no transom. The way you told it, you also got second and third which managed to get you the Yamaha - by default because nobody else wanted it. * :)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Quit knocking Harry's Parker, it's going to me mine soon! Didn't you see his wager to me? |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
Jim wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:24:58 -0400, "Jim" wrote: I would think that If Tom thought Parker was a worthy boat If they changed the color from that monkey vomit beige to white, well maybe I'd consider one. :) It's just fun tweaking Harry about his boat - he gets so defensive it's amusing. My boat is what it is - never claimed it to be something different - it's a great bay boat with decent range and a decent ride in heavier weather. And it's pretty quick which is also a plus. The fact that it's unique pleases me. My son mentioned something to me the other day and he was right - this is the first boat I've ever owned for longer than five years - I've had it for eight and I'm not ever going to get rid of it. It's good that you are happy with your boat. I'm glad you didn't have to settle for a "monkey puke" Parker. I wish you many more happy moons with your boat. I actually think Harry's Parker is a great bay boat when the water is calm. The only recommendation I would have for Harry is to get rid of that ugly bimini. you normally see those on runabouts, not a proper fishing boat. Besides looking tacky, the tie downs for the bimini totally eliminates the advantage of a CC. You have to decide if you want to fish in the bow or the stern of the boat, and hope the fish doesn't want to move around as you reel him in. I would guess most people want to fish from the bow, your docksiders stay drier that way. Even with the bimini, if I was Harry, I would spend substantially less time talking about fishing and more time actually fishing or using his boat. Sure it might be warm on some days and it is common to have afternoon showers during the spring and summer,if you only go out on a "perfect day", you will very rarely go boating. |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
RPS wrote:
I actually think... snerk |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
"RPS" wrote in message . .. Jim wrote: "Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 21:24:58 -0400, "Jim" wrote: I would think that If Tom thought Parker was a worthy boat If they changed the color from that monkey vomit beige to white, well maybe I'd consider one. :) It's just fun tweaking Harry about his boat - he gets so defensive it's amusing. My boat is what it is - never claimed it to be something different - it's a great bay boat with decent range and a decent ride in heavier weather. And it's pretty quick which is also a plus. The fact that it's unique pleases me. My son mentioned something to me the other day and he was right - this is the first boat I've ever owned for longer than five years - I've had it for eight and I'm not ever going to get rid of it. It's good that you are happy with your boat. I'm glad you didn't have to settle for a "monkey puke" Parker. I wish you many more happy moons with your boat. I actually think Harry's Parker is a great bay boat when the water is calm. The only recommendation I would have for Harry is to get rid of that ugly bimini. you normally see those on runabouts, not a proper fishing boat. Besides looking tacky, the tie downs for the bimini totally eliminates the advantage of a CC. You have to decide if you want to fish in the bow or the stern of the boat, and hope the fish doesn't want to move around as you reel him in. I would guess most people want to fish from the bow, your docksiders stay drier that way. Even with the bimini, if I was Harry, I would spend substantially less time talking about fishing and more time actually fishing or using his boat. Sure it might be warm on some days and it is common to have afternoon showers during the spring and summer,if you only go out on a "perfect day", you will very rarely go boating. Don't you think his surrey top would look cute with a string of pink pom poms around the perimeter? |
The Continuing Saga of Repairing Cruis'n Rulz!
On Jul 24, 2:20*am, Tim wrote:
On Jul 23, 5:56 pm, Vic Smith wrote: On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:46:59 -0400, "Jim" wrote: Salt water in the valve guides. Rebuilders won't touch heads from sal****er boats. That sort of cuts down your options, don't it? But why is that? *I can see how the SW cooled heads might have more of the passages eaten away, but they could grind, revalve, respring, and reguide with no problem. *Just make it clear future cracks aren't warranteed, same as any head rebuild. Anyway, I'm only batting .500 with shop work on heads. I don't know anything about those boat engine manifolds, but I guess that's how the salt got in the guides. The other thing that doesn't make sense to me is how the piston hit the valve, because I thought that engine was non-interference. Couldn't find that's a fact anywhere though, so maybe I'm missing something. Seems like there's big differences between car and boat engines. Think I'll get an O/B. --Vic Well, one thing is that engine heads are sort of a soft cast iron and after years of salt water exposure, the minerals of said water actually impregnate into the heads and cause the cast iron to break down. just like an old rusty iron water pipe that's laid bare to the elements over several years. So quality machine work is next to impossible- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Sounds a bit like an urban legend. Guides are either knurled or bored and inserts added. Knurled is quick and easy but won't last as long. The salt water is not really going to affect either option. The seats are hardened. Have been ever since they went to unleaded gas. Besides, how does the machine shop know where the head has been anyway? As someone else mentioned, I too thought this engine was supposed to be non-interfering. The other 305s I've seen from the boating world have had seriously dished pistons, no way a valve would hit them. We need more facts from the autopsy after the head is removed :-) I'd also suggest removing a few other springs and checking those valves for wobble. |
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