On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:45:22 -0400, HK wrote:

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 14:47:38 +0000, Larry wrote:

The look on a boater's face when I tell him to open the gas cap a crack,
or the fuel valve he forgot to open, and the engine smooths out in 15
seconds, having watched his bulb collapse..........PRICELESS!..

One more advantage of direct injection two stroke engines - no primer
bulb.

Primer bulb - pfffhhhtt - ancient tech.

I understand your eTech runs on water vapors and pumps wine out the pee-er.

Not wine - bourbon.

BTW, in the years I have owned two Yamaha four strokes I never once have
touched the primer bulb.

Of course not.

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:45:22 -0400, HK wrote:

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 14:47:38 +0000, Larry wrote:

The look on a boater's face when I tell him to open the gas cap a crack,
or the fuel valve he forgot to open, and the engine smooths out in 15
seconds, having watched his bulb collapse..........PRICELESS!..
One more advantage of direct injection two stroke engines - no primer
bulb.

Primer bulb - pfffhhhtt - ancient tech.
I understand your eTech runs on water vapors and pumps wine out the pee-er.

Not wine - bourbon.

BTW, in the years I have owned two Yamaha four strokes I never once have
touched the primer bulb.

Of course not.

I kid you not. Never touched either of them. In fact, I didn't even know
where the current one was until I opened the bilge hatch this past week
to work the valve for the livewell. There it was...untouched.

On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 22:46:07 -0400, HK wrote:

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:45:22 -0400, HK wrote:

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 14:47:38 +0000, Larry wrote:

The look on a boater's face when I tell him to open the gas cap a crack,
or the fuel valve he forgot to open, and the engine smooths out in 15
seconds, having watched his bulb collapse..........PRICELESS!..
One more advantage of direct injection two stroke engines - no primer
bulb.

Primer bulb - pfffhhhtt - ancient tech.
I understand your eTech runs on water vapors and pumps wine out the pee-er.

Not wine - bourbon.

BTW, in the years I have owned two Yamaha four strokes I never once have
touched the primer bulb.

Of course not.

I kid you not. Never touched either of them. In fact, I didn't even know
where the current one was until I opened the bilge hatch this past week
to work the valve for the livewell. There it was...untouched.

I believe - I believe.

Honest...

John H. wrote in
:

Larry, it wasn't my problem, but you sure gave a splendid answer. I
learned something new. Thank you!
--
John *H*



Quite welcome and comment much appreciated...thank you.

I put a bulb in my Mercury Sport Jet-powered Sea Rayder even though it has
an electric primer pump. It's just too good a quick fuel system
troubleshooting device not to!

On Jun 23, 4:27*pm, Larry wrote:
wrote in news:718bdca1-6c67-4451-9150-
:

A local shop told me to check if there is water in the gas tank. Since
it's an inboard tank, it's not easy to check so I'll use a external
5gal tank (and clean fuel) and see if it runs fine.

Stop by any auto parts store and buy a see-through fuel filter that has
the right sized hose fittings on it, same as the primer bulb. *Buy an
extra length of fuel hose that will run from the primer bulb to the gas
filler cap so we can use the bulb to pump gas from the bottom of the tank
through that filter back into the tank by hand to see what's in the fuel. *
Make sure you can lay the filter on its side so we can look under the
filter paper while pumping the bulb.

Disconnect the motor from the bulb (don't forget we need a new hose clamp
to put it back). *Connect a short piece of hose from the bulb to the
OUTSIDE-the-paper filter end of the see thru filter. *We're going to pump
gas from the OUTSIDE of the filter paper to the inside and back into the
tank so we can see what crap will collect on the outside of the paper.

From the INSIDE end of the filter, run the hose DEEPLY into the filler
cap so we don't make a lot of wasteful fumes trying to spray it in the
cap. *We don't need to see it going back in the tank because we can see
the filter.

Pump the bulb, the more the better, the faster the better....with theboatrocking at the dock sloshing the crap in the tank around is best! *
Put theboatin the water and tie it to a dock that has waves to slosh it
around for us free. *Do NOT let the outlet end of the filter be lower
than the inlet end. *We want water to show up in the filter if it's there
(which I'm betting it's not unless you left the gas tank NEARLY EMPTY all
winter. *You DID FILL THE TANK BEFORE STORAGE EVERY TIME, RIGHT?!! *Flog
yourself if you didn't for me! *Shame on you!

Full gas tanks cannot BREATHE in water vapor to collect on cold, bare
tank walls every night....ALWAYS leave the tanks stored FULL, but not
overflowing.....

I had to go to the cottage yesterday (got broken into but they caught
the *******s so I didn't lose much) and it gave me a chance to try to
the boat.

First I had to fix the throttle because the robbers were too dumb to
know to try another key in the key chain instead of breaking my gas
cap lock key in the ignition switch!

Back to the boat... Started it and it works fine, no hesitation at
all... What gives???

Oh yeah, while fixing the throttle, I removed the red cables from the
batteries and when I put it back (the big one, not the small one for
accessories) it created a spark! There was nothing on (no light, bilge
pump, well fan, etc). I followed the wire to the engine were it
connected to other red cables. I undid then and touched the main cable
one by one. The one that created a spark was the voltage regulator
one. I had it changed last year. Could it be a faulty one? Is it
supposed to drain the batteries like that? I doubt it though...

Thanks again!

It did it again (no power at low rpm until 3,400 rpm) :-(

I noticed the engine would start with just either the top or center
cylinder plug connected but not the lower cylinder plug connected. I
swapped the lower cylinder plug with the top cylinder one and it still
wouldn't start with the lower cylinder only so I know if wasn't a foul
plug. I swapped the center and lower coil (and wires as well so the
timing was still ok )and same thing, the center plug was working with
the lower coil but not the lower plug with the center coil so again, I
deducted the coils are ok. Only one thing left... The electronic
module :-(

With my problem with the voltage regulator and the now the electronic
module, the boat is in the shop for a checkup :-(

wrote in news:faae4fbf-1ea6-4c84-973a-ad94923186e7
@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

With my problem with the voltage regulator and the now the electronic
module, the boat is in the shop for a checkup :-(




Good idea....Towing is much more expensive than spark plugs and
coils....and ECMs.

On Jul 2, 7:35 pm, Larry wrote:
wrote in news:faae4fbf-1ea6-4c84-973a-ad94923186e7
@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

With my problem with the voltage regulator and the now the electronic
module, the boat is in the shop for a checkup :-(

Good idea....Towing is much more expensive than spark plugs and
coils....and ECMs.

Well, if the shop charges me an arm and a leg for a switchbox, lucky
for me, I found a web site that carries them

http://www.maxrules.com/fixmercelectric2.html#1147778

for just $180.