[HK]

jamesgangnc wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just realized they don't use a radiator and only circulate the
water. If the block is drained, why add antifreeze?
Most people simply drain the block and do not add antifreeze. All the
blocks have a drain plug at the lowest point in them. There is also
typically drain plugs on the exhaust manifolds or you disconnect the
hoses going into the bottoms of the exhaust manifolds. Often you
disconnect the hose coming in from the outside as well. On a Mercrusier
this often will be going to a water exchange power steering fluid cooler.
The out drive should be lowered for storage and it will drain it's self
in this position.

Unless you have one of the more sophisticated closed cooling systems
there is not any antifreeze anywhere. "Raw water" cools everything and
then is pumped back out with the exhaust. There are closed systems that
have a water exchange radiator instead of an air exchange one. It will
look like a big tank somewhere on the front of the engine. They still
need the raw water sections drained but it's not likely your friend has
one of these.

The oil is usually pumped out the dipstick tube. There are electric
pumps and cheaper hand pumps. It is way easier to get the oil if you run
the engine and get the oil hot first. Don't run it on land without the
rubber garden hose muffs hooked to the outdrive and the water turned on.
Or if it has a raw water pickup on the bottom there is other solutions
for hooking a garden hose to it. The raw water supply pump is rubber
vaned and the rubber will melt in short order if it is run dry.

Are outdrives stored for the winter with the drive up or down? Most
outboard boats that are properly covered and stored up here where we have
freezing temps have the outboard tilted up (for ground clearance), and the
through-hub exhaust taped and covered so water cannot get into the
apparatus there, freeze, expand, and do damage.

Outdrives should be stored tilited down, ie the position where the prop
shaft is parallel to the boat hull. You want the rubber bellows in a
neutral position when it sits so it doesn't "take" a curved shape from
sitting. Just about all boats have clearance for the drive, i/o or
outboard, to be down because of the trailer height from the ground. If your
outboard sticks further down than that you probably have it mounted too low
anyway.



Naw. For winter storage, most of us prop the front of the trailer way up
high...not high enough to lift the front wheels of the trailer up off
the group, but high enough to assure good drainage if any water gets
into the boat because of a shrink wrap failure, or because of condensation.

That tends to lower the stern.

I can trailer my boat with the outboard down, but I don't.

[John H.[_4_]]

On Wed, 28 May 2008 09:57:16 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote:

"HK" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just realized they don't use a radiator and only circulate the
water. If the block is drained, why add antifreeze?

Most people simply drain the block and do not add antifreeze. All the
blocks have a drain plug at the lowest point in them. There is also
typically drain plugs on the exhaust manifolds or you disconnect the
hoses going into the bottoms of the exhaust manifolds. Often you
disconnect the hose coming in from the outside as well. On a Mercrusier
this often will be going to a water exchange power steering fluid cooler.
The out drive should be lowered for storage and it will drain it's self
in this position.

Unless you have one of the more sophisticated closed cooling systems
there is not any antifreeze anywhere. "Raw water" cools everything and
then is pumped back out with the exhaust. There are closed systems that
have a water exchange radiator instead of an air exchange one. It will
look like a big tank somewhere on the front of the engine. They still
need the raw water sections drained but it's not likely your friend has
one of these.

The oil is usually pumped out the dipstick tube. There are electric
pumps and cheaper hand pumps. It is way easier to get the oil if you run
the engine and get the oil hot first. Don't run it on land without the
rubber garden hose muffs hooked to the outdrive and the water turned on.
Or if it has a raw water pickup on the bottom there is other solutions
for hooking a garden hose to it. The raw water supply pump is rubber
vaned and the rubber will melt in short order if it is run dry.


Are outdrives stored for the winter with the drive up or down? Most
outboard boats that are properly covered and stored up here where we have
freezing temps have the outboard tilted up (for ground clearance), and the
through-hub exhaust taped and covered so water cannot get into the
apparatus there, freeze, expand, and do damage.

Outdrives should be stored tilited down, ie the position where the prop
shaft is parallel to the boat hull. You want the rubber bellows in a
neutral position when it sits so it doesn't "take" a curved shape from
sitting. Just about all boats have clearance for the drive, i/o or
outboard, to be down because of the trailer height from the ground. If your
outboard sticks further down than that you probably have it mounted too low
anyway.


What you say, especially for I/Os sounds reasonable, so I called one of the
bigger marinas in the area to see how they did it. Their response was that
they were stored with the outdrive up, and/or the outboard up.
--
John *H*

[JimH[_2_]]

On May 28, 9:57 am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
"HK" wrote in message

...

jamesgangnc wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just realized they don't use a radiator and only circulate the
water. If the block is drained, why add antifreeze?

Most people simply drain the block and do not add antifreeze. All the
blocks have a drain plug at the lowest point in them. There is also
typically drain plugs on the exhaust manifolds or you disconnect the
hoses going into the bottoms of the exhaust manifolds. Often you
disconnect the hose coming in from the outside as well. On a Mercrusier
this often will be going to a water exchange power steering fluid cooler.
The out drive should be lowered for storage and it will drain it's self
in this position.

Unless you have one of the more sophisticated closed cooling systems
there is not any antifreeze anywhere. "Raw water" cools everything and
then is pumped back out with the exhaust. There are closed systems that
have a water exchange radiator instead of an air exchange one. It will
look like a big tank somewhere on the front of the engine. They still
need the raw water sections drained but it's not likely your friend has
one of these.

The oil is usually pumped out the dipstick tube. There are electric
pumps and cheaper hand pumps. It is way easier to get the oil if you run
the engine and get the oil hot first. Don't run it on land without the
rubber garden hose muffs hooked to the outdrive and the water turned on.
Or if it has a raw water pickup on the bottom there is other solutions
for hooking a garden hose to it. The raw water supply pump is rubber
vaned and the rubber will melt in short order if it is run dry.

Are outdrives stored for the winter with the drive up or down? Most
outboard boats that are properly covered and stored up here where we have
freezing temps have the outboard tilted up (for ground clearance), and the
through-hub exhaust taped and covered so water cannot get into the
apparatus there, freeze, expand, and do damage.

Outdrives should be stored tilited down, ie the position where the prop
shaft is parallel to the boat hull. You want the rubber bellows in a
neutral position when it sits so it doesn't "take" a curved shape from
sitting. Just about all boats have clearance for the drive, i/o or
outboard, to be down because of the trailer height from the ground. If your
outboard sticks further down than that you probably have it mounted too low
anyway.

Bingo! You care indeed correct. I keep my I/O down during the winter
and down even when idle at the dock.

[[email protected]]

On May 28, 11:05*am, John H. wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2008 09:57:16 -0400, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:
wrote in message
....
I just realized they don't use a radiator and only circulate the
water. If the block is drained, why add antifreeze?

Most people simply drain the block and do not add antifreeze. *All the
blocks have a drain plug at the lowest point in them. *There is also
typically drain plugs on the exhaust manifolds or you disconnect the
hoses going into the bottoms of the exhaust manifolds. *Often you
disconnect the hose coming in from the outside as well. *On a Mercrusier
this often will be going to a water exchange power steering fluid cooler.
The out drive should be lowered for storage and it will drain it's self
in this position.

Unless you have one of the more sophisticated closed cooling systems
there is not any antifreeze anywhere. *"Raw water" cools everything and
then is pumped back out with the exhaust. *There are closed systems that
have a water exchange radiator instead of an air exchange one. *It will
look like a big tank somewhere on the front of the engine. *They still
need the raw water sections drained but it's not likely your friend has
one of these.

The oil is usually pumped out the dipstick tube. *There are electric
pumps and cheaper hand pumps. *It is way easier to get the oil if you run
the engine and get the oil hot first. *Don't run it on land without the
rubber garden hose muffs hooked to the outdrive and the water turned on.

[HK]

JimH wrote:
On May 28, 9:57 am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
"HK" wrote in message

...

jamesgangnc wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just realized they don't use a radiator and only circulate the
water. If the block is drained, why add antifreeze?
Most people simply drain the block and do not add antifreeze. All the
blocks have a drain plug at the lowest point in them. There is also
typically drain plugs on the exhaust manifolds or you disconnect the
hoses going into the bottoms of the exhaust manifolds. Often you
disconnect the hose coming in from the outside as well. On a Mercrusier
this often will be going to a water exchange power steering fluid cooler.
The out drive should be lowered for storage and it will drain it's self
in this position.
Unless you have one of the more sophisticated closed cooling systems
there is not any antifreeze anywhere. "Raw water" cools everything and
then is pumped back out with the exhaust. There are closed systems that
have a water exchange radiator instead of an air exchange one. It will
look like a big tank somewhere on the front of the engine. They still
need the raw water sections drained but it's not likely your friend has
one of these.
The oil is usually pumped out the dipstick tube. There are electric
pumps and cheaper hand pumps. It is way easier to get the oil if you run
the engine and get the oil hot first. Don't run it on land without the
rubber garden hose muffs hooked to the outdrive and the water turned on.
Or if it has a raw water pickup on the bottom there is other solutions
for hooking a garden hose to it. The raw water supply pump is rubber
vaned and the rubber will melt in short order if it is run dry.
Are outdrives stored for the winter with the drive up or down? Most
outboard boats that are properly covered and stored up here where we have
freezing temps have the outboard tilted up (for ground clearance), and the
through-hub exhaust taped and covered so water cannot get into the
apparatus there, freeze, expand, and do damage.
Outdrives should be stored tilited down, ie the position where the prop
shaft is parallel to the boat hull. You want the rubber bellows in a
neutral position when it sits so it doesn't "take" a curved shape from
sitting. Just about all boats have clearance for the drive, i/o or
outboard, to be down because of the trailer height from the ground. If your
outboard sticks further down than that you probably have it mounted too low
anyway.

Bingo! You care indeed correct. I keep my I/O down during the winter
and down even when idle at the dock.


Well, as I have stated any number of times, I've never owned an I/O and
have very little knowledge about them...but I know I don't like them much!

[Jim]

"John H." wrote in message
...
On Wed, 28 May 2008 09:57:16 -0400, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

"HK" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just realized they don't use a radiator and only circulate the
water. If the block is drained, why add antifreeze?

Most people simply drain the block and do not add antifreeze. All the
blocks have a drain plug at the lowest point in them. There is also
typically drain plugs on the exhaust manifolds or you disconnect the
hoses going into the bottoms of the exhaust manifolds. Often you
disconnect the hose coming in from the outside as well. On a
Mercrusier
this often will be going to a water exchange power steering fluid
cooler.
The out drive should be lowered for storage and it will drain it's self
in this position.

Unless you have one of the more sophisticated closed cooling systems
there is not any antifreeze anywhere. "Raw water" cools everything and
then is pumped back out with the exhaust. There are closed systems
that
have a water exchange radiator instead of an air exchange one. It will
look like a big tank somewhere on the front of the engine. They still
need the raw water sections drained but it's not likely your friend has
one of these.

The oil is usually pumped out the dipstick tube. There are electric
pumps and cheaper hand pumps. It is way easier to get the oil if you
run
the engine and get the oil hot first. Don't run it on land without the
rubber garden hose muffs hooked to the outdrive and the water turned
on.
Or if it has a raw water pickup on the bottom there is other solutions
for hooking a garden hose to it. The raw water supply pump is rubber
vaned and the rubber will melt in short order if it is run dry.


Are outdrives stored for the winter with the drive up or down? Most
outboard boats that are properly covered and stored up here where we
have
freezing temps have the outboard tilted up (for ground clearance), and
the
through-hub exhaust taped and covered so water cannot get into the
apparatus there, freeze, expand, and do damage.

Outdrives should be stored tilited down, ie the position where the prop
shaft is parallel to the boat hull. You want the rubber bellows in a
neutral position when it sits so it doesn't "take" a curved shape from
sitting. Just about all boats have clearance for the drive, i/o or
outboard, to be down because of the trailer height from the ground. If
your
outboard sticks further down than that you probably have it mounted too
low
anyway.


What you say, especially for I/Os sounds reasonable, so I called one of
the
bigger marinas in the area to see how they did it. Their response was that
they were stored with the outdrive up, and/or the outboard up.
--
John *H*
Surprising answer.
I would not do business with that marina.

[[email protected]]

On May 28, 10:22*am, HK wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:
wrote in message
....
I just realized they don't use a radiator and only circulate the
water. If the block is drained, why add antifreeze?
Most people simply drain the block and do not add antifreeze. *All the
blocks have a drain plug at the lowest point in them. *There is also
typically drain plugs on the exhaust manifolds or you disconnect the
hoses going into the bottoms of the exhaust manifolds. *Often you
disconnect the hose coming in from the outside as well. *On a Mercrusier
this often will be going to a water exchange power steering fluid cooler.
The out drive should be lowered for storage and it will drain it's self
in this position.

Unless you have one of the more sophisticated closed cooling systems
there is not any antifreeze anywhere. *"Raw water" cools everything and
then is pumped back out with the exhaust. *There are closed systems that
have a water exchange radiator instead of an air exchange one. *It will
look like a big tank somewhere on the front of the engine. *They still
need the raw water sections drained but it's not likely your friend has
one of these.

The oil is usually pumped out the dipstick tube. *There are electric
pumps and cheaper hand pumps. *It is way easier to get the oil if you run
the engine and get the oil hot first. *Don't run it on land without the
rubber garden hose muffs hooked to the outdrive and the water turned on.

[HK]

wrote:
On May 28, 10:22 am, HK wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
...
jamesgangnc wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just realized they don't use a radiator and only circulate the
water. If the block is drained, why add antifreeze?
Most people simply drain the block and do not add antifreeze. All the
blocks have a drain plug at the lowest point in them. There is also
typically drain plugs on the exhaust manifolds or you disconnect the
hoses going into the bottoms of the exhaust manifolds. Often you
disconnect the hose coming in from the outside as well. On a Mercrusier
this often will be going to a water exchange power steering fluid cooler.
The out drive should be lowered for storage and it will drain it's self
in this position.
Unless you have one of the more sophisticated closed cooling systems
there is not any antifreeze anywhere. "Raw water" cools everything and
then is pumped back out with the exhaust. There are closed systems that
have a water exchange radiator instead of an air exchange one. It will
look like a big tank somewhere on the front of the engine. They still
need the raw water sections drained but it's not likely your friend has
one of these.
The oil is usually pumped out the dipstick tube. There are electric
pumps and cheaper hand pumps. It is way easier to get the oil if you run
the engine and get the oil hot first. Don't run it on land without the
rubber garden hose muffs hooked to the outdrive and the water turned on.
Or if it has a raw water pickup on the bottom there is other solutions
for hooking a garden hose to it. The raw water supply pump is rubber
vaned and the rubber will melt in short order if it is run dry.
Are outdrives stored for the winter with the drive up or down? Most
outboard boats that are properly covered and stored up here where we have
freezing temps have the outboard tilted up (for ground clearance), and the
through-hub exhaust taped and covered so water cannot get into the
apparatus there, freeze, expand, and do damage.
Outdrives should be stored tilited down, ie the position where the prop
shaft is parallel to the boat hull. You want the rubber bellows in a
neutral position when it sits so it doesn't "take" a curved shape from
sitting. Just about all boats have clearance for the drive, i/o or
outboard, to be down because of the trailer height from the ground. If your
outboard sticks further down than that you probably have it mounted too low
anyway.
Naw. For winter storage, most of us prop the front of the trailer way up
high...not high enough to lift the front wheels of the trailer up off
the group, but high enough to assure good drainage if any water gets
into the boat because of a shrink wrap failure, or because of condensation.

That tends to lower the stern.

I can trailer my boat with the outboard down, but I don't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Tilting the trailer back does shorten the distance to the ground but
you can still have the motor tilted pretty close to the normal
position. The bellows is the issue for the i/o. Though I do wonder
about the engine cooling passages on the outboard? Do they fully
drain when the motor is tilted up? I guess they probably drain enough
either way for it not to matter.


The outboards I have owned recently have a "stress reliever" tab that
helps support the weight of the powerhead when the engine is tilted. It
only works when the engine is tilted full up.

The outboard is drained and allowed to air dry before its exhaust hub is
taped up and the engine raised for storage.

That's how it is done at the shop where I do business.

Next winter I will wander the yard there and see how the I/O's are
winterized.

[John H.[_4_]]

On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:22:02 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III" "Reggie is
Here wrote:

John H. wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:32 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III" "Reggie is
Here wrote:

JimH wrote:

Folks here should remember to take caution when receiving advice from
just any poster. This NG has its share of non boaters and
mechanically challenged boaters.

I completely agree with you, but would take it a few steps further. I
would be hesitant to follow anyone's advice in any NG without verifying
the information. In general the advice given in all NG's are
contradictory and many times the advice given can be very dangerous to
follow.

I have often received some great advice in NG's, but have always
verified the advice from a mfg and/or mechanic. In all NG's there are
people who think they are "the pro from Dover", but continually give
incorrect advice. JohnH owns an outboard motor, so it does not surprise
me he was not familiar with how to store a stern drive, which is why he
called the marina. He is also one of those people who KNOWS he is not
the "Pro from Dover:, and doesn't pretend to be one in the NG.

I called that specific marina to see how they did it. I stored my I/O with
the drive down in a boatel. I very seldom raised my sterndrive for
anything, unless I trailered somewhere. That was done very infrequently.

JimH should be very proud that you responded to him. Most folks aren't.

My mistake.

He's confused giving advice with reporting what TriState Marine does.
But.....
--
John *H*

[JimH[_2_]]

On May 28, 5:50 pm, John H. wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:22:02 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III" "Reggie is



Here wrote:
John H. wrote:
On Wed, 28 May 2008 17:06:32 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III" "Reggie is
Here wrote:

JimH wrote:

Folks here should remember to take caution when receiving advice from
just any poster. This NG has its share of non boaters and
mechanically challenged boaters.

I completely agree with you, but would take it a few steps further. I
would be hesitant to follow anyone's advice in any NG without verifying
the information. In general the advice given in all NG's are
contradictory and many times the advice given can be very dangerous to
follow.

I have often received some great advice in NG's, but have always
verified the advice from a mfg and/or mechanic. In all NG's there are
people who think they are "the pro from Dover", but continually give
incorrect advice. JohnH owns an outboard motor, so it does not surprise
me he was not familiar with how to store a stern drive, which is why he
called the marina. He is also one of those people who KNOWS he is not
the "Pro from Dover:, and doesn't pretend to be one in the NG.

I called that specific marina to see how they did it. I stored my I/O with
the drive down in a boatel. I very seldom raised my sterndrive for
anything, unless I trailered somewhere. That was done very infrequently.

JimH should be very proud that you responded to him. Most folks aren't.

My mistake.

He's confused giving advice with reporting what TriState Marine does.
But.....
--
John *H*

Just received another nasty and vulgar email from you. Will you
please stop?