I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas



Jim Rojas


Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.

Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump. The
only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam or clog
If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the other
goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an outboard or
jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that the electric
pump is working.

Jim Rojas



Jim Rojas


Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate the
pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke circuit,
so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power the
fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter solenoid
S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope your
electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.

It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only
$40. I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later
time. It is cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year.
Heck, an impeller kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several
minutes to change out if the pump fails.

Jim Rojas


Jim wrote:
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump.
The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam
or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on
a separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in
my driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas



Jim Rojas


Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...
It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40.
I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It is
cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an impeller
kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change
out if the pump fails.

Jim Rojas


Jim wrote:
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump.
The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might jam
or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas



Jim Rojas


Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.


And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in enclosed
engine compartments , right?

On Apr 21, 9:56*am, "Jim" wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote in message

news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...





It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only $40.

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Apr 21, 9:56 am, "Jim" wrote:
"Jim Rojas" wrote in message

news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...





It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only
$40.
I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It
is
cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an
impeller
kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change
out if the pump fails.

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump.
The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might
jam
or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on
a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in
my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.

And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in
enclosed
engine compartments , right?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I can't say, but I doubt if it is. But then again. a lot of stuff on
boats isn't CC "aproved" from the factory.

I would have perhaps done things differently, but if he's satisfied
with how it works then I suppose that's fine. After all, we're talking
a runabout boat here.

I have to disagree with you here Tim. Runabouts can explode too. It could
happen in a crowded marina or a gas dock, or a raft up party etc. Innocent
people could be killed or injured because of an improperly maintained
runabout.

On Apr 21, 12:09*pm, "Jim" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...
On Apr 21, 9:56 am, "Jim" wrote:





"Jim Rojas" wrote in message

news:WX0Pj.1566$Ks1.1408@trnddc01...

It's a standard utility pump I pick up at Harbor Freight. It was only
$40.
I can always replace it with a continous duty model at a later time. It
is
cheap enough to carry a spare, or replace it every year. Heck, an
impeller
kit is $40 anyway. This setup would only take several minutes to change
out if the pump fails.

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:
Sorry. Carry on. When you said electric pump, I was thinking fuel pump.
The only caution I can think of is that the pump you are using might
jam
or clog If it wasn't designed to pump dirty water.

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
news:nISOj.1538$Ks1.1380@trnddc01...
I didn't replace the fuel pump, and don't have any plans to.

The choke circuit only activates the 30A relay. The pump itself is on
a
separate 20 amp fuse on the battery selector switch.

I installed a temporary garden hose 2 way splitter on both ends of the
water pump. On the in side, one hose goes to the raw water inlet, the
other goes to a short hose to allow quick connection for flushing in
my
driveway. On out side, one hose goes to the heat exchanger, and the
other goes to a 1/4 hose reducer that acts like a weep hole on an
outboard or jetski. This allows a visual indication at all times that
the electric pump is working.

Jim Rojas

Jim Rojas

Jim wrote:

"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
newsBJOj.1591$pn4.872@trnddc03...
Yeah...that I am an idiot...

The electric pump works great! I had to install a relay to activate
the pump. The relay is hooked up in parallel to the electric choke
circuit, so it will turn on/off when you turn the key.

Not such a good idea. You need to buy a oil pressure switch and power
the fuel pump from it. You also need to pull power from the starter
solenoid S terminal to run the pump while cranking the engine. I hope
your electric fuel pump is of the Coast Guard approved variety.

And it's certified ignition protected by the Coast Guard for use in
enclosed
engine compartments , right?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I can't say, but I doubt if it is. But then again. a lot of stuff on
boats isn't CC "aproved" from the factory.

I would have perhaps done things differently, but if he's satisfied
with how it works then I suppose that's fine. After all, we're talking
a runabout boat here.

I have to disagree with you here Tim. Runabouts can explode too. It could
happen in a crowded marina or a gas dock, or a raft up party etc. Innocent
people could be killed or injured because of an improperly maintained
runabout.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oh, no doubt, Jim. and I'm not really discounting the idea that it's a
good thing. But it's amazing how many boats you'll find that have
google, jerry rigged things onboard.Again. I'm not saying it's a good
thing....

But if a person uses some common sense and has a decent knowledge
about spark/flame arresting, and can adapt to such, then there
shouldn't be a problem.