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what battery for trolling motor in canoe
What would be a good light battery for trolling motor for canoe.
Someone told me they come in motorcycle size battery. He told me to get "gel." Thanks! |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
donquijote1954 wrote:
What would be a good light battery for trolling motor for canoe. Someone told me they come in motorcycle size battery. He told me to get "gel." Thanks! "Gel" batteries are the same as regular lead-acid batteries. The advantage is that they use a semi- liquid electrolyte, are sealed and don't leak. Car-size gel batteries can be had from electric wheel chair suppliers. Don't know about motorcycle size except that by being smaller they won't have as much stored power. In other words, they won't last as long per charge. Are you proposing this for packing in? If so why? Paddles are ever so much lighter and last as long as you do. Are you driving to a boat launch? If so, why worry about weight. A car size battery weighs somewhere around 40 pounds. Not unreasonable for a canoe. Keep it toward the middle and lashed down. |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Dec 17, 12:36 pm, VtSkier wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: What would be a good light battery for trolling motor for canoe. Someone told me they come in motorcycle size battery. He told me to get "gel." Thanks! "Gel" batteries are the same as regular lead-acid batteries. The advantage is that they use a semi- liquid electrolyte, are sealed and don't leak. I need that they DON'T leak. Car-size gel batteries can be had from electric wheel chair suppliers. Don't know about motorcycle size except that by being smaller they won't have as much stored power. In other words, they won't last as long per charge. I see. Are you proposing this for packing in? If so why? Paddles are ever so much lighter and last as long as you do. Still paddling, but occasionally using it to extend range and make it "more romantic." I'll be drinking beer and singing instead of paddling. ;) Are you driving to a boat launch? If so, why worry about weight. A car size battery weighs somewhere around 40 pounds. Not unreasonable for a canoe. Keep it toward the middle and lashed down. They sell boxes for it, but lash down to what? This is my canoe... http://www.madrivercanoe.com/adventure-14 If the whole thing is too complicated and/or expensive, I may just abandon the project. I bought the stabilizers already but I can use those for fishing, etc. |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 09:58:32 -0800 (PST), donquijote1954
wrote: On Dec 17, 12:36 pm, VtSkier wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: What would be a good light battery for trolling motor for canoe. Someone told me they come in motorcycle size battery. He told me to get "gel." Thanks! "Gel" batteries are the same as regular lead-acid batteries. The advantage is that they use a semi- liquid electrolyte, are sealed and don't leak. I need that they DON'T leak. Car-size gel batteries can be had from electric wheel chair suppliers. Don't know about motorcycle size except that by being smaller they won't have as much stored power. In other words, they won't last as long per charge. I see. Are you proposing this for packing in? If so why? Paddles are ever so much lighter and last as long as you do. Still paddling, but occasionally using it to extend range and make it "more romantic." I'll be drinking beer and singing instead of paddling. ;) Are you driving to a boat launch? If so, why worry about weight. A car size battery weighs somewhere around 40 pounds. Not unreasonable for a canoe. Keep it toward the middle and lashed down. They sell boxes for it, but lash down to what? This is my canoe... http://www.madrivercanoe.com/adventure-14 If the whole thing is too complicated and/or expensive, I may just abandon the project. I bought the stabilizers already but I can use those for fishing, etc. It is quite possible, Wilderness Systems used to (may still) sell a kayak (Pamlico) that had an electric motor installed. Look for "deep cycle" as opposed to automotive or motorcycle batteries. The automotive batteries call for a large drain briefly (starting) then recharge. You want a battery designed for relatively low drain (trolling motor) over a long period of time. They come in sizes comparable to motorcycle batteries and also in "gel" form. You can probably even find them at places like Wal-Mart. It is definitely possible, lots of people have done it, the people at rec.boats.paddle should have lots of information. -- Galen Hekhuis I may have mispoken |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
"donquijote1954" wrote in message ... Still paddling, but occasionally using it to extend range and make it "more romantic." I'll be drinking beer and singing instead of paddling. ;) That has romance written all over it. |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Dec 17, 2:24 pm, "the Moderator"
wrote: "donquijote1954" wrote in message ... Still paddling, but occasionally using it to extend range and make it "more romantic." I'll be drinking beer and singing instead of paddling. ;) That has romance written all over it. I should drink champagne, huh? |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Dec 17, 11:33 am, donquijote1954
wrote: What would be a good light battery for trolling motor for canoe. Someone told me they come in motorcycle size battery. He told me to get "gel." Thanks! This thread answers many questions I have... http://groups.google.com/group/rec.o...81b1fd17d2d174 |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
donquijote1954 wrote:
What would be a good light battery for trolling motor for canoe. Someone told me they come in motorcycle size battery. He told me to get "gel." Thanks! You would be wanting a Deep Cycle Marine battery. These come in the newer 'spiral cell' technology with no free electrolyte to spill something like a gel battery, but better. I believe EXIDE make most of them, well lots of them anyway. See: http://www.exide.com/products/marine...eep_cycle.html You could also look into the golf cart batteries, but they are only smaller because they are 6 volt usually. A small 12 volt battery won't get you very far. Folks also sell nice solar chargers for those type of setups so the battery will last a lot longer, weather permitting. In a canoe, you 'really' want to make sure the canoe has enough flotation to hold up a battery before tying it down, let alone just the motor so if you tip, the canoe doesn't go straight to the bottom. Flotation can be added so it will at least hold up the weight of the motor on the tail end of the canoe, otherwise.... Mike |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Dec 18, 1:35 pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: What would be a good light battery for trolling motor for canoe. Someone told me they come in motorcycle size battery. He told me to get "gel." Thanks! You would be wanting a Deep Cycle Marine battery. These come in the newer 'spiral cell' technology with no free electrolyte to spill something like a gel battery, but better. I believe EXIDE make most of them, well lots of them anyway. See:http://www.exide.com/products/marine...eep_cycle.html You could also look into the golf cart batteries, but they are only smaller because they are 6 volt usually. A small 12 volt battery won't get you very far. Folks also sell nice solar chargers for those type of setups so the battery will last a lot longer, weather permitting. In a canoe, you 'really' want to make sure the canoe has enough flotation to hold up a battery before tying it down, let alone just the motor so if you tip, the canoe doesn't go straight to the bottom. Flotation can be added so it will at least hold up the weight of the motor on the tail end of the canoe, otherwise.... Mike Thanks! Some nice advice there. Gotta see the price of the battery... $164 at one place. Not that bad. ;) |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Dec 18, 4:27 pm, donquijote1954
wrote: On Dec 18, 1:35 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: What would be a good light battery for trolling motor for canoe. Someone told me they come in motorcycle size battery. He told me to get "gel." Thanks! You would be wanting a Deep Cycle Marine battery. These come in the newer 'spiral cell' technology with no free electrolyte to spill something like a gel battery, but better. I believe EXIDE make most of them, well lots of them anyway. See:http://www.exide.com/products/marine...eep_cycle.html You could also look into the golf cart batteries, but they are only smaller because they are 6 volt usually. A small 12 volt battery won't get you very far. Folks also sell nice solar chargers for those type of setups so the battery will last a lot longer, weather permitting. In a canoe, you 'really' want to make sure the canoe has enough flotation to hold up a battery before tying it down, let alone just the motor so if you tip, the canoe doesn't go straight to the bottom. Flotation can be added so it will at least hold up the weight of the motor on the tail end of the canoe, otherwise.... Mike Thanks! Some nice advice there. Gotta see the price of the battery... $164 at one place. Not that bad. ;)- $140 at this other place, including shipping. Even better... http://www.diversifiedbattery.com/product1013.html |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
I saw at WestMarine this battery "Deep Cycle AGM 32," very compact but
lasting shorter. This website explains that AGMs are better than Gels... http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Bat...%20electrolyte |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
donquijote1954 wrote:
I saw at WestMarine this battery "Deep Cycle AGM 32," very compact but lasting shorter. This website explains that AGMs are better than Gels... http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Bat...%20electrolyte I am out of touch with the modern suppliers, but the AGM technology is the 'spiral cell' tech I was talking about that Exide make. This is 'far' better than a liquid filled battery for boats and the gel cells, well, they are now 'old' technology that doesn't behave nice. I personally recommend whatever brand the biggest chain store you can get to easy sells with the longest warranty! That way you can get a replacement anywhere usually for free. The chain stores now sell AGM batteries for really good prices. Companies like 'Optima' became 'famous' with off roaders for their AGM spiral cell batteries and the first few were good. Then they put out crap with 'really' short warranties for big bucks. I switched back to the chain store brands. Back when I ran a fleet of electric boats, we only had the liquid filled type. I ran deep cell with as many reserve amps as I could get. I had one 18' fishing cruiser that would seat 8 run by two Mercury Electrics powered by the 12 volt diesel truck sized (double the footprint of a car battery) battery. One was good for 8 or 9 hours, but I always had two on board under the bench seat. The car sized batteries would last in a rowboat for the 8 or 9 hours usually too. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Dec 19, 11:26 am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: I saw at WestMarine this battery "Deep Cycle AGM 32," very compact but lasting shorter. This website explains that AGMs are better than Gels... http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Bat...%20electrolyte I am out of touch with the modern suppliers, but the AGM technology is the 'spiral cell' tech I was talking about that Exide make. This is 'far' better than a liquid filled battery for boats and the gel cells, well, they are now 'old' technology that doesn't behave nice. I personally recommend whatever brand the biggest chain store you can get to easy sells with the longest warranty! That way you can get a replacement anywhere usually for free. The chain stores now sell AGM batteries for really good prices. Companies like 'Optima' became 'famous' with off roaders for their AGM spiral cell batteries and the first few were good. Then they put out crap with 'really' short warranties for big bucks. I switched back to the chain store brands. Back when I ran a fleet of electric boats, we only had the liquid filled type. I ran deep cell with as many reserve amps as I could get. I had one 18' fishing cruiser that would seat 8 run by two Mercury Electrics powered by the 12 volt diesel truck sized (double the footprint of a car battery) battery. One was good for 8 or 9 hours, but I always had two on board under the bench seat. The car sized batteries would last in a rowboat for the 8 or 9 hours usually too. Thank you much. How about this... "Battery - 12V AGM, Group U-1, 32Ah, 8.3"L x 5.1"W x 7.25"H, 24lbs" For "Minn Kota Riptide 12v 40 thrust." I don't need more than 3 hours. Then getting the charger is kind of complicated too. I read not to get the one from the Auto Parts. |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Dec 19, 11:26 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I saw at WestMarine this battery "Deep Cycle AGM 32," very compact but lasting shorter. This website explains that AGMs are better than Gels... http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Bat...%20electrolyte I am out of touch with the modern suppliers, but the AGM technology is the 'spiral cell' tech I was talking about that Exide make. This is 'far' better than a liquid filled battery for boats and the gel cells, well, they are now 'old' technology that doesn't behave nice. I personally recommend whatever brand the biggest chain store you can get to easy sells with the longest warranty! That way you can get a replacement anywhere usually for free. The chain stores now sell AGM batteries for really good prices. Companies like 'Optima' became 'famous' with off roaders for their AGM spiral cell batteries and the first few were good. Then they put out crap with 'really' short warranties for big bucks. I switched back to the chain store brands. Back when I ran a fleet of electric boats, we only had the liquid filled type. I ran deep cell with as many reserve amps as I could get. I had one 18' fishing cruiser that would seat 8 run by two Mercury Electrics powered by the 12 volt diesel truck sized (double the footprint of a car battery) battery. One was good for 8 or 9 hours, but I always had two on board under the bench seat. The car sized batteries would last in a rowboat for the 8 or 9 hours usually too. Thank you much. How about this... "Battery - 12V AGM, Group U-1, 32Ah, 8.3"L x 5.1"W x 7.25"H, 24lbs" For "Minn Kota Riptide 12v 40 thrust." I don't need more than 3 hours. Then getting the charger is kind of complicated too. I read not to get the one from the Auto Parts. Minn Kota used to be decent trolling motors with one quirk. They had this silly light bulb to tell you they were on. Well, it was in series with the motor feed so when the light bulb burnt out, the motor stopped. I don't know if the new ones are the same. All batteries do best with a long slow trickle charge, like an overnight one. The battery maker will give the specs on what is the best charging rate for that battery so you just buy one that matches. Automotive chargers are usually fast chargers because their batteries can take that. Just buy what matches. That battery is a 32 amp hour battery. You can pull 32 amps off it for an hour or 10 amps for 3 hours or 5 amps for 6 hours, etc.... How many amps does the Minn Kota draw? I couldn't find your model on the Minn Kota site. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...=sbm_riptidesm It implies really good battery life though. Mike |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
"donquijote1954" wrote in message ... On Dec 19, 11:26 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I saw at WestMarine this battery "Deep Cycle AGM 32," very compact but lasting shorter. This website explains that AGMs are better than Gels... http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Bat...%20electrolyte I am out of touch with the modern suppliers, but the AGM technology is the 'spiral cell' tech I was talking about that Exide make. This is 'far' better than a liquid filled battery for boats and the gel cells, well, they are now 'old' technology that doesn't behave nice. I personally recommend whatever brand the biggest chain store you can get to easy sells with the longest warranty! That way you can get a replacement anywhere usually for free. The chain stores now sell AGM batteries for really good prices. Companies like 'Optima' became 'famous' with off roaders for their AGM spiral cell batteries and the first few were good. Then they put out crap with 'really' short warranties for big bucks. I switched back to the chain store brands. Back when I ran a fleet of electric boats, we only had the liquid filled type. I ran deep cell with as many reserve amps as I could get. I had one 18' fishing cruiser that would seat 8 run by two Mercury Electrics powered by the 12 volt diesel truck sized (double the footprint of a car battery) battery. One was good for 8 or 9 hours, but I always had two on board under the bench seat. The car sized batteries would last in a rowboat for the 8 or 9 hours usually too. Thank you much. How about this... "Battery - 12V AGM, Group U-1, 32Ah, 8.3"L x 5.1"W x 7.25"H, 24lbs" For "Minn Kota Riptide 12v 40 thrust." I don't need more than 3 hours. Then getting the charger is kind of complicated too. I read not to get the one from the Auto Parts. You have been getting good advice from several on the group. As a point of reference, I took a canoe trip in a cave in Belize. There were no motors, but the light was supplied by a simple car battery driving a standard automotive headlamp. The battery was sitting just forward of center in the canoe, with no box or mountings. While I'm not advocating such an arrangement used in the cave, a typical marine type battery might serve you well, depending upon the current requirement of the motor. With relatively low current, a standard car battery might even get the job done. |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Dec 19, 1:58 pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 19, 11:26 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I saw at WestMarine this battery "Deep Cycle AGM 32," very compact but lasting shorter. This website explains that AGMs are better than Gels... http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Bat...%20electrolyte I am out of touch with the modern suppliers, but the AGM technology is the 'spiral cell' tech I was talking about that Exide make. This is 'far' better than a liquid filled battery for boats and the gel cells, well, they are now 'old' technology that doesn't behave nice. I personally recommend whatever brand the biggest chain store you can get to easy sells with the longest warranty! That way you can get a replacement anywhere usually for free. The chain stores now sell AGM batteries for really good prices. Companies like 'Optima' became 'famous' with off roaders for their AGM spiral cell batteries and the first few were good. Then they put out crap with 'really' short warranties for big bucks. I switched back to the chain store brands. Back when I ran a fleet of electric boats, we only had the liquid filled type. I ran deep cell with as many reserve amps as I could get. I had one 18' fishing cruiser that would seat 8 run by two Mercury Electrics powered by the 12 volt diesel truck sized (double the footprint of a car battery) battery. One was good for 8 or 9 hours, but I always had two on board under the bench seat. The car sized batteries would last in a rowboat for the 8 or 9 hours usually too. Thank you much. How about this... "Battery - 12V AGM, Group U-1, 32Ah, 8.3"L x 5.1"W x 7.25"H, 24lbs" For "Minn Kota Riptide 12v 40 thrust." I don't need more than 3 hours. Then getting the charger is kind of complicated too. I read not to get the one from the Auto Parts. Minn Kota used to be decent trolling motors with one quirk. They had this silly light bulb to tell you they were on. Well, it was in series with the motor feed so when the light bulb burnt out, the motor stopped. I don't know if the new ones are the same. All batteries do best with a long slow trickle charge, like an overnight one. The battery maker will give the specs on what is the best charging rate for that battery so you just buy one that matches. Automotive chargers are usually fast chargers because their batteries can take that. Just buy what matches. That battery is a 32 amp hour battery. You can pull 32 amps off it for an hour or 10 amps for 3 hours or 5 amps for 6 hours, etc.... How many amps does the Minn Kota draw? I couldn't find your model on the Minn Kota site.http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...p?pg=sbm_ripti... It implies really good battery life though. I couldn't find that info either. I just know it's the smallest one. Well, I think I'm gonna go for it, after making sure the amps it draws. Maybe write to the factory. Thank you all! ;) |
Hey, one more question!
Well, I already ordered the Minn Kota motor, and so now remains the
battery and the charger... WHAT KIND OF CHARGER? The link I gave above recommends this type... http://www.boatersland.com/statpower.html Which one though. The second one is recommended for deep cycle. Thanks! 'Chargers: Most garage and consumer (automotive) type battery chargers are bulk charge only, and have little (if any) voltage regulation. They are fine for a quick boost to low batteries, but not to leave on for long periods. Among the regulated chargers, there are the voltage regulated ones, such as Iota Engineering and Todd, which keep a constant regulated voltage on the batteries. If these are set to the correct voltages for your batteries, they will keep the batteries charged without damage. These are sometimes called "taper charge" - as if that is a selling point. What taper charge really means is that as the battery gets charged up, the voltage goes up, so the amps out of the charger goes down. They charge OK, but a charger rated at 20 amps may only be supplying 5 amps when the batteries are 80% charged. To get around this, Statpower (and maybe others?) have come out with "smart", or multi-stage chargers. These use a variable voltage to keep the charging amps much more constant for faster charging.' |
Hey, one more question!
Oh, this site has all deep cycle chargers. I like the third one
because it's cheaper... ;) http://www.batterymart.com/c-deep-cy...-chargers.html http://www.batterymart.com/p-cliplig...y-charger.html |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
Oh, this site has all deep cycle chargers. I like the third one because it's cheaper... ;) http://www.batterymart.com/c-deep-cy...-chargers.html http://www.batterymart.com/p-cliplig...y-charger.html I looked at them. From experience I know that the AGM or spiral batteries are 'very' picky about being overcharged. They will still vent hydrogen like a normal battery on hard charge, but just don't have that much to vent so they 'boil' dry easy. For this reason I personally would go for one with an AGM 'switch'. I think it would be worth it. The second one also has the AGM sensing technology and it's waterproof. Sometimes the fancy stuff like the 1st isn't always the 'best' stuff. The 3rd or 'cliplite' only says it is for conventional lead acid batteries.... If you will be charging at home or from a power grid, input voltage sensing isn't needed like some have for running off inverters or generators. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
Well, I already ordered the Minn Kota motor, and so now remains the battery and the charger... WHAT KIND OF CHARGER? The link I gave above recommends this type... http://www.boatersland.com/statpower.html Which one though. The second one is recommended for deep cycle. Thanks! Nope, it's only for lead acid batteries and gel, no mention of AGM or spiral. Quote: Supports charging for flooded or gel lead-acid batteries. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Dec 22, 2:08*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: Oh, this site has all deep cycle chargers. I like the third one because it's cheaper... ;) http://www.batterymart.com/c-deep-cy...-chargers.html http://www.batterymart.com/p-cliplig...y-charger.html I looked at them. *From experience I know that the AGM or spiral batteries are 'very' picky about being overcharged. *They will still vent hydrogen like a normal battery on hard charge, but just don't have that much to vent so they 'boil' dry easy. For this reason I personally would go for one with an AGM 'switch'. *I think it would be worth it. The second one also has the AGM sensing technology and it's waterproof. * Sometimes the fancy stuff like the 1st isn't always the 'best' stuff. The 3rd or 'cliplite' only says it is for conventional lead acid batteries.... If you will be charging at home or from a power grid, input voltage sensing isn't needed like some have for running off inverters or generators. Mike My mistake. I went for the low price instead of the features. :) Thank you, I'll go for the first one. And I'd probably go with the bigger battery in AGM, just in case. Thank you again! |
Hey, one more question!
Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute...
http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html |
Hey, one more question!
On Dec 24, 5:00*pm, donquijote1954
wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Dec 24, 5:00 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. I would try to find out the power draw from those motors before spending money. The 'old' school Minn Kota motors (pre 85) would last an 8 hour day fishing when pushing a freighter canoe with 5 people or a row boat with 3 or 4 people on one car sized battery. The new motors are supposed to be much better for battery life also. If you motor only draws say 2 amps on medium speed which is almost water skiing speed in a canoe, the battery should last about 15 hours. The motors I had needed a sea anchor to keep them slow enough for trolling weed patches. We used a bucket on a rope. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Dec 25, 3:45*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 24, 5:00 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. I would try to find out the power draw from those motors before spending money. The 'old' school Minn Kota motors (pre 85) would last an 8 hour day fishing when pushing a freighter canoe with 5 people or a row boat with 3 or 4 people on one car sized battery. The new motors are supposed to be much better for battery life also. If you motor only draws say 2 amps on medium speed which is almost water skiing speed in a canoe, the battery should last about 15 hours. The motors I had needed a sea anchor to keep them slow enough for trolling weed patches. *We used a bucket on a rope. Mike Good idea. Can you believe that I wrote to Minn Tonka asking their motor's draw and they didn't even reply? I guess I should be able to tell when I get it. |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
Jeeeeez, yet another expense for the motor...
http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in...c/MKR%2D19.htm I guess I need it, huh? :( |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
donquijote1954 wrote:
Jeeeeez, yet another expense for the motor... http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in...c/MKR%2D19.htm I guess I need it, huh? :( Well.... Sorry to tell ya, but if you can't figure out that the red wire goes to the positive and the black one to the negative, you might want to think twice about going near any motors... ;-) The only situation I could think of needing that is a reverse hookup. The small windings and wires in the motors will burn out long before the power cables will melt. The old Minn Kota motors used a power on light bulb as a fuse. Have a short and it would pop fast. It takes a 'lot' of hours to wear the motors out. I used them 7 days a week for 8 to 12 hours a day all fishing season when I ran a guiding outfit. Had a bunch of them out every day. I was rebuilding the brushes every two or three years with the odd commutator replacement, but never had a short out failure in the 8 years I was doing it. Mike |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Dec 27, 5:50*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: Jeeeeez, yet another expense for the motor... http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/CFID/4903... I guess I need it, huh? :( Well.... Sorry to tell ya, but if you can't figure out that the red wire goes to the positive and the black one to the negative, you might want to think twice about going near any motors... *;-) The only situation I could think of needing that is a reverse hookup. The small windings and wires in the motors will burn out long before the power cables will melt. The old Minn Kota motors used a power on light bulb as a fuse. *Have a short and it would pop fast. *It takes a 'lot' of hours to wear the motors out. *I used them 7 days a week for 8 to 12 hours a day all fishing season when I ran a guiding outfit. *Had a bunch of them out every day. *I was rebuilding the brushes every two or three years with the odd commutator replacement, but never had a short out failure in the 8 years I was doing it. Mike I've never seen a trolling motor work in real life (nor its connections and cables), but it seems pretty straight forward. ;) And unless it's dark, I don't see any problem with the color coding. |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
Hey, guys, a couple more questions...
According to this ad, AGM don't need special charger... "MK AGM Batteries requires no special battery charger as do GEL CELL batteries. If uncertain if the battery charger you currently using will properly charge an AGM battery please consult us before using the charger. Typically RV and Marine charging systems require no modification when using MK AGM Batteries." http://www.batterystuff.com/batterie...agm/8AU1H.html And this charger seems mighty good --and cheap... http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC...s_auto_title_1 |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
donquijote1954 wrote:
Hey, guys, a couple more questions... According to this ad, AGM don't need special charger... "MK AGM Batteries requires no special battery charger as do GEL CELL batteries. If uncertain if the battery charger you currently using will properly charge an AGM battery please consult us before using the charger. Typically RV and Marine charging systems require no modification when using MK AGM Batteries." http://www.batterystuff.com/batterie...agm/8AU1H.html And this charger seems mighty good --and cheap... http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC...s_auto_title_1 I just 'love' that doublespeak! LOL! As far as the charger goes, it shows on it a setting and light for the AGM battery so it's right. Did you find out the motor's draw yet? Mike |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Jan 4, 4:48*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, a couple more questions... According to this ad, AGM don't need special charger... "MK AGM Batteries requires no special battery charger as do GEL CELL batteries. If uncertain if the battery charger you currently using will properly charge an AGM battery please consult us before using the charger. Typically RV and Marine charging systems require no modification when using MK AGM Batteries." http://www.batterystuff.com/batterie...agm/8AU1H.html And this charger seems mighty good --and cheap... http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC...ttery-Charger/... I just 'love' that doublespeak! *LOL! As far as the charger goes, it shows on it a setting and light for the AGM battery so it's right. Did you find out the motor's draw yet? It hasn't arrived yet. I went to another store and looked for details in the box (not the manual itself) and nothing. I've come to the conclusion that the draw on that motor is top secret. Not even the manufacturer will reveal it. And to add to the confusion the guy at the store told me that it wouldn't last me more than half an hour on the 32 amp battery. Hey, the stabilizer I bought from Spring Creek to make my motoring safe is great! But the final answer is coming soon... |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 4, 4:48 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, a couple more questions... According to this ad, AGM don't need special charger... "MK AGM Batteries requires no special battery charger as do GEL CELL batteries. If uncertain if the battery charger you currently using will properly charge an AGM battery please consult us before using the charger. Typically RV and Marine charging systems require no modification when using MK AGM Batteries." http://www.batterystuff.com/batterie...agm/8AU1H.html And this charger seems mighty good --and cheap... http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC...ttery-Charger/... I just 'love' that doublespeak! LOL! As far as the charger goes, it shows on it a setting and light for the AGM battery so it's right. Did you find out the motor's draw yet? It hasn't arrived yet. I went to another store and looked for details in the box (not the manual itself) and nothing. I've come to the conclusion that the draw on that motor is top secret. Not even the manufacturer will reveal it. And to add to the confusion the guy at the store told me that it wouldn't last me more than half an hour on the 32 amp battery. He is then implying the battery will draw over 30 amps! That is a serious draw needing welding or car starter sized cables.... LOL! I don't think so. But if it draws 15 amps on full.... Now that 32 AH battery is about the smallest one made though. It can take a 30 amp draw for one hour only or a 2 amp draw for 15 hours. A 100 AH battery isn't much larger in footprint.... Maybe the wind will come up or there is current, that can make the motor work on high speed which will draw amps, maybe even 15, I don't know. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Dec 25 2007, 6:41*pm, donquijote1954
wrote: On Dec 25, 3:45*pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 24, 5:00 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. I would try to find out the power draw from those motors before spending money. The 'old' school Minn Kota motors (pre 85) would last an 8 hour day fishing when pushing a freighter canoe with 5 people or a row boat with 3 or 4 people on one car sized battery. The new motors are supposed to be much better for battery life also. If you motor only draws say 2 amps on medium speed which is almost water skiing speed in a canoe, the battery should last about 15 hours. The motors I had needed a sea anchor to keep them slow enough for trolling weed patches. *We used a bucket on a rope. Mike Good idea. Can you believe that I wrote to Minn Tonka asking their motor's draw and they didn't even reply? I guess I should be able to tell when I get it.- Well, the motor is finally and I'm gonna reveal the secret... "For best results use deep cycle Minn Kota marine batteries with at least 105 amp hour rating. As a general on the water estimate, your 12 volt motor will draw 1.0 amp/hour for each pound of thrust produced when the motor is running on high." So at 40 thrust, that would be 40 amp/hour, and so... I need a big battery! If I go for an AGM that would mean something like dishing out over $200! Are you sure the fish are gonna bite that much? ;) |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Dec 25 2007, 6:41 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 25, 3:45 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 24, 5:00 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. I would try to find out the power draw from those motors before spending money. The 'old' school Minn Kota motors (pre 85) would last an 8 hour day fishing when pushing a freighter canoe with 5 people or a row boat with 3 or 4 people on one car sized battery. The new motors are supposed to be much better for battery life also. If you motor only draws say 2 amps on medium speed which is almost water skiing speed in a canoe, the battery should last about 15 hours. The motors I had needed a sea anchor to keep them slow enough for trolling weed patches. We used a bucket on a rope. Mike Good idea. Can you believe that I wrote to Minn Tonka asking their motor's draw and they didn't even reply? I guess I should be able to tell when I get it.- Well, the motor is finally and I'm gonna reveal the secret... "For best results use deep cycle Minn Kota marine batteries with at least 105 amp hour rating. As a general on the water estimate, your 12 volt motor will draw 1.0 amp/hour for each pound of thrust produced when the motor is running on high." So at 40 thrust, that would be 40 amp/hour, and so... I need a big battery! If I go for an AGM that would mean something like dishing out over $200! Are you sure the fish are gonna bite that much? ;) Man those Minn Kotas are still 'very' thirsty SOB's aren't they. What do they use on low? I went with new Mercury Marine electrics back in the 1980's for this reason. The Minn Kotas I got used. The Mercs had a gear box that took ATF in them so the DC motor could reach high speed with low load. DC motors are much more efficient at higher rpm. Oh, with twin Merc's on the back of my 18 foot cruiser, on full I 'could' have pulled a skier. I think that was 80 ft lb, don't remember for sure, it was a long time ago. I did rescue a massive Lake Cruise Ship with a tour Bus full of people once when it lost power way down a lake. It was being blown onto a reef, so I came buy with my fishing group and they tossed me a rope despite the Captain thinking my 'little' electrics couldn't save them. I pulled them back into the center of the lake and held them while help came. The fishing tour in my boat caught two 5 lb rainbow trout while we were doing it too. Gave the Bus tour folks a show when the trout went dancing across the lake on the hook. They go airborne when hooked. On a canoe, it will just fly with 40 ft lb of thrust. As far as batteries go, 70 and 105 amp hours do ring bells. I ran a fleet of boats with Fishing Guides in some of them so the cost was just part of doing business. You know, you can go to all of the local auto wreckers around here and buy used batteries for about $25.00 with a warranty. You can shop for sizes, not vehicle specific and get the biggest amp hour reserve they have. I know some folks that recondition the used batteries for Used Car lots and they put a one year warranty on them. They state they very seldom if ever have to honor the warranty, these batteries will start a car for at least a year so on an occasional use like your boat, they should be good for several years. A car battery will do just fine if you don't drain it dry before charging it again and use a nice long slow charge on it. All mine weren't marine, that's for sure. The only gotcha with a used battery is it needs it's case to be cleaned with a backing soda and water solution before you use it. This is to get rid of the acid that accumulates on the case from many charges over time. Just so you don't 'burn' fingerprints in your clothes after carrying it. (been there, done that, both things) Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 8, 11:18*am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 25 2007, 6:41 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 25, 3:45 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 24, 5:00 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. I would try to find out the power draw from those motors before spending money. The 'old' school Minn Kota motors (pre 85) would last an 8 hour day fishing when pushing a freighter canoe with 5 people or a row boat with 3 or 4 people on one car sized battery. The new motors are supposed to be much better for battery life also. If you motor only draws say 2 amps on medium speed which is almost water skiing speed in a canoe, the battery should last about 15 hours. The motors I had needed a sea anchor to keep them slow enough for trolling weed patches. *We used a bucket on a rope. Mike Good idea. Can you believe that I wrote to Minn Tonka asking their motor's draw and they didn't even reply? I guess I should be able to tell when I get it.- Well, the motor is finally and I'm gonna reveal the secret... "For best results use deep cycle Minn Kota marine batteries with at least 105 amp hour rating. As a general on the water estimate, your 12 volt motor will draw 1.0 amp/hour for each pound of thrust produced when the motor is running on high." So at 40 thrust, that would be 40 amp/hour, and so... I need a big battery! If I go for an AGM that would mean something like dishing out over $200! Are you sure the fish are gonna bite that much? ;) Man those Minn Kotas are still 'very' thirsty SOB's aren't they. What do they use on low? I went with new Mercury Marine electrics back in the 1980's for this reason. *The Minn Kotas I got used. *The Mercs had a gear box that took ATF in them so the DC motor could reach high speed with low load. *DC motors are much more efficient at higher rpm. Oh, with twin Merc's on the back of my 18 foot cruiser, on full I 'could' have pulled a skier. *I think that was 80 ft lb, don't remember for sure, it was a long time ago. *I did rescue a massive Lake Cruise Ship with a tour Bus full of people once when it lost power way down a lake. *It was being blown onto a reef, so I came buy with my fishing group and they tossed me a rope despite the Captain thinking my 'little' electrics couldn't save them. *I pulled them back into the center of the lake and held them while help came. *The fishing tour in my boat caught two 5 lb rainbow trout while we were doing it too. *Gave the Bus tour folks a show when the trout went dancing across the lake on the hook. They go airborne when hooked. On a canoe, it will just fly with 40 ft lb of thrust. I hope it does. As far as batteries go, 70 and 105 amp hours do ring bells. *I ran a fleet of boats with Fishing Guides in some of them so the cost was just part of doing business. You know, you can go to all of the local auto wreckers around here and buy used batteries for about $25.00 with a warranty. *You can shop for sizes, not vehicle specific and get the biggest amp hour reserve they have.. I know some folks that recondition the used batteries for Used Car lots and they put a one year warranty on them. *They state they very seldom if ever have to honor the warranty, these batteries will start a car for at least a year so on an occasional use like your boat, they should be good for several years. A car battery will do just fine if you don't drain it dry before charging it again and use a nice long slow charge on it. *All mine weren't marine, that's for sure. The only gotcha with a used battery is it needs it's case to be cleaned with a backing soda and water solution before you use it. *This is to get rid of the acid that accumulates on the case from many charges over time. *Just so you don't 'burn' fingerprints in your clothes after carrying it. *(been there, done that, both things) You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. A case with a carry handle is a great idea. Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? As mentioned, the old Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. Overload it and the bulb blows. What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing? You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use in high end stereo systems. If you blow the fuse, you paddle because the motor is cooked. I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. Cooked motor is a cooked motor. A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 9, 12:29*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. A case with a carry handle is a great idea. Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? *As mentioned, the old Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. *Overload it and the bulb blows.. What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing? You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use in high end stereo systems. *If you blow the fuse, you paddle because the motor is cooked. I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. *Cooked motor is a cooked motor. *A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring. Mike (signed under different account) Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is... http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in...c/MKR%2D19.htm What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug? http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in...Group/Home.htm |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 10, 11:24*am, Mike Romain wrote:
wrote: On Jan 9, 12:29 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. A case with a carry handle is a great idea. Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? *As mentioned, the old Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. *Overload it and the bulb blows. What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing? You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use in high end stereo systems. *If you blow the fuse, you paddle because the motor is cooked. I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. *Cooked motor is a cooked motor. *A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring. Mike (signed under different account) Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is... http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/CFID/5317... What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug? http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/subcatego... That is 'not' a manual! *That is a parts sales catalog. *Sure, they will sell you anything you think want. Think about it this way, every connection and plug you use has resistance which eats up battery power. *Those quick connects are cheesy at best and they corrode 'very' easily which makes more resistance which eats up more power. *Next door to one place I worked they dealt with those toy ride on mini cars like Jeeps, etc and they used that exact quick connect. *I saw hundreds of them rotted away in their stack of discards. What does the Owners Manual for your Minn Kota say about fusing? How does the motor's cables hook up to the battery? *If by nuts, then wing nuts (not in their catalog) are about the only good accessory you need. You 'could' hook up a quick connect that also would connect to your charger, but you need to go for a quality part. *Gold plated pins is best. |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 10, 11:24 am, Mike Romain wrote: wrote: On Jan 9, 12:29 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. A case with a carry handle is a great idea. Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? As mentioned, the old Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. Overload it and the bulb blows. What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing? You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use in high end stereo systems. If you blow the fuse, you paddle because the motor is cooked. I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. Cooked motor is a cooked motor. A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring. Mike (signed under different account) Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is... http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/CFID/5317... What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug? http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/subcatego... That is 'not' a manual! That is a parts sales catalog. Sure, they will sell you anything you think want. Think about it this way, every connection and plug you use has resistance which eats up battery power. Those quick connects are cheesy at best and they corrode 'very' easily which makes more resistance which eats up more power. Next door to one place I worked they dealt with those toy ride on mini cars like Jeeps, etc and they used that exact quick connect. I saw hundreds of them rotted away in their stack of discards. What does the Owners Manual for your Minn Kota say about fusing? How does the motor's cables hook up to the battery? If by nuts, then wing nuts (not in their catalog) are about the only good accessory you need. You 'could' hook up a quick connect that also would connect to your charger, but you need to go for a quality part. Gold plated pins is best. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, the manual says... "WARNING: TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE, always install a 60 amp manual reset circuit breaker in line with the trolling motor positive (+) as close to the battery as possible. To order a MKR-19..." I still have yet to identify the motor you bought. The riptide motors don't come in a 40 and they are all bow mounts according to the links you provided. I would be in a better position to advise you about it if I could go look it up and get the schematics for it to tell you if it is fused. If you hook up the battery cables backward or think you will be capable of putting the positive on the negative, then for sure spend money on that breaker. Other than that all I see is 4 power robbing connections. Mike |
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