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Hey, one more question!
On Jan 11, 3:29*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
"WARNING: TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE, always install a 60 amp manual reset circuit breaker in line with the trolling motor positive (+) as close to the battery as possible. To order a MKR-19..." I still have yet to identify the motor you bought. *The riptide motors don't come in a 40 and they are all bow mounts according to the links you provided. *I would be in a better position to advise you about it if I could go look it up and get the schematics for it to tell you if it is fused. If you hook up the battery cables backward or think you will be capable of putting the positive on the negative, then for sure spend money on that breaker. *Other than that all I see is 4 power robbing connections. I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 12, 11:08*am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. *I like the sacrificial anode. *Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. |
Hey, one more question!
Del Cecchi wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. (some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 14, 10:57*am, Mike Romain wrote:
Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. *I like the sacrificial anode. *Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. *And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. *(some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. *It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. *If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. *You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. So you are saying I may be better off with another fuse, not the circuit breaker. OK, what kind of fuse? |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 14, 10:57 am, Mike Romain wrote: Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. (some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. So you are saying I may be better off with another fuse, not the circuit breaker. OK, what kind of fuse? Does the motor have a built in fuse? If it does, how big is it. I wouldn't think it does due to the mentioned breaker. That's kinda redundant. High end stereo shops sell inline fuses for 4 ga and various other large cable sizes that have 50 and 60 and whatever size fuse you need. You just carry a spare. Even radio shack has them, but the quality?... http://www.radioshack.com/sm-fuse-ho...8.2032234.html You then should go to an automotive store if the stereo shop doesn't have and buy dielectric grease, sometimes sold as 'spark plug boot protector'. It is inexpensive, Permatex is one brand and you fill all the fuse and cable connections with this stuff to prevent corrosion. Muck up the ends of the spare fuse with it too before duct taping it onto the cable beside the fuse holder. It works well for waterproofing, I can run my Jeep through 42" of standing water with no issues and have every connection done. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 18, 4:49*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 14, 10:57 am, Mike Romain wrote: Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. *I like the sacrificial anode. *Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. *And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. *(some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. *It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. *If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. *You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. So you are saying I may be better off with another fuse, not the circuit breaker. OK, what kind of fuse? Does the motor have a built in fuse? *If it does, how big is it. *I wouldn't think it does due to the mentioned breaker. *That's kinda redundant. High end stereo shops sell inline fuses for 4 ga and various other large cable sizes that have 50 and 60 and whatever size fuse you need. *You just carry a spare. Even radio shack has them, but the quality?...http://www.radioshack.com/sm-fuse-ho...2032302_cp-203... You then should go to an automotive store if the stereo shop doesn't have and buy dielectric grease, sometimes sold as 'spark plug boot protector'. *It is inexpensive, Permatex is one brand and you fill all the fuse and cable connections with this stuff to prevent corrosion. Muck up the ends of the spare fuse with it too before duct taping it onto the cable beside the fuse holder. *It works well for waterproofing, I can run my Jeep through 42" of standing water with no issues and have every connection done. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. *Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'll look into that, but isn't the price higher than the original MinnKota circuit breaker? ($40) |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
I'll look into that, but isn't the price higher than the original MinnKota circuit breaker? ($40) Yes it is more expensive. It will pay for itself in it's life and maintenance vs a breaker's life in the wet and salt environment. Fresh water is bad enough for corrosion, salt water is a killer. That motor has a part that gets eaten away in salt water to protect the rest, a sacrificial anode, but that wouldn't help on the cabling. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
Mike Romain wrote:
Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. (some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com In my freshwater experience, the fuse holders aren't that great. But perhaps there are better ones available. |
Hey, one more question!
Del Cecchi wrote:
Mike Romain wrote: Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. (some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com In my freshwater experience, the fuse holders aren't that great. But perhaps there are better ones available. You can now get the large glass fuse ones made for 4 ga. and other large cables with no spring connections in them for use in high end stereos. One of these filled with dielectric grease should keep corrosion away. The older inlines were spring loaded, they don't work well at all on suspended cables. What type were you using? That way the OP will know one to avoid. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 19, 7:57*pm, Del Cecchi
wrote: Mike Romain wrote: Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. *I like the sacrificial anode. *Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. *And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. *(some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. *It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. *If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. *You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. *Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com In my freshwater experience, the fuse holders aren't that great. *But perhaps there are better ones available.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - No, I'm not motoring yet. It has to do with budgets... ;) Ready tomorrow, but this battery box seems to address the fuse issue... http://www.boatersoutlet.com/index.a...OD&ProdID=1646 The rating is not that great though... http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...earchR esults |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
No, I'm not motoring yet. It has to do with budgets... ;) Ready tomorrow, but this battery box seems to address the fuse issue... That is one serious piece of Junk. You want to keep to the KISS principal or keep it simple smart guy. Every connection you have is a power loss point and corrosion point, especially near salt water. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 19, 7:57=A0pm, Del Cecchi
Del Cecchi wrote: Del? What you do'in in r.b. or is it r.p.b? Man connectivity must have had a hiccup and lots of articles didn't make very far. -- |
Hey, one more question!
In article ,
John Fereira wrote: Fereira? I don't recognize the name in r.p.b. I recognize yours though, from probably 13 years ago in rec.backcountry. Hey, you owe me a fish some time (edible). Salmon, Mack, trout, we can work species out. Last I remember, we talked about you driving past the Pixar ski lease in Tahoe City on Pine St. -- |
Hey, one more question!
In article ,
John Fereira wrote: Fereira? Hey, you owe me a fish some time (edible). Salmon, Mack, trout, we can work species out. Acquiring any of those species shouldn't be too difficult. I live about a mile from a lake that has rainbow, german brown, landlocked salmon, and lake trout in it. I live about 25 miles from a lake which is known as the "Lake Trout Capital of the World" (http://fli.hws.edu/pdf/Dwyer_%20FINAL.pdf). I also live about two hours from "Trouttown, USA" (Roscoe, NY, on the Beaverkill river). Getting an "edible" fish to you might prove to be more of a challenge. I just came from the salmon Capital of the world. Many bald eagles munching on them. I was in South Lake Tahoe in August and wished I had more time there to go to the north side of the lake. Is Rosie's Cafe still there? I used to have breakfast there all the time before skiing. I think Rosie's morf'ed. I'd have to check. I don't get to that area as often these days instead using CA 267. Left the Port Hardy and Campbell river and am now in Victoria. Flying tomorrow home. Nice sunny day in between the snowing. -- |
Hey, one more question!
|
Hey, one more question!
Howcome every time my newsreader shows a new item in RBP, it's always
in this insipid "One more question" thread? And who keeps Xposting between RBP and the backcountry NG that I just deleted from my Newsgroups line? John Kuthe... |
Hey, one more question!
the salmon Capital of the world.
Left ... Campbell river In article , Bruce in alaska wrote: Eugene, your data on the "Salmon Capital of the World" is a bit out of date. Their claim. The Campbell River doesn't even come close to being the #1 Salmon River in the World, especially recently.... but I guess it does make a Good Story..... Oh, I know all these ad claims are merely Mike's spam. It likely once was Fort Bragg (I think they have still have a Salmon festival). That leaves out OR, WA AK and other parts of .CA or can.*. Similarly Alert Bay claims world's tallest totem pole, compared to one at McKinleyville, etc. I just eat them. Slurp. -- |
Hey, one more question!
salmon
was Fort Bragg (I think they have still have a Salmon festival). In article , John Fereira wrote: I was born in Fort Bragg and don't ever recall the town making that claim. My uncle was a commercial fisherman out of Noyo harbor that for many years fished for salmon and then moved north to Washington where he fished for black cod and halibut. The last time I went to the Salmon festival was about 20 years ago. Great food and great fun. I'm going to cut boats out of the followup unless you want it. Worth attending eh? I've been to the berry festival in Covelo. I'm not normally into these things, especially when you have to pay to get in. But good food flavors are not to be missed. Similarly Alert Bay claims world's tallest totem pole, compared to one at McKinleyville, etc. The town I live in now (Ithaca, NY) claims to be the birthplace of the ice cream sundae. The claim is however disputed by Two Rivers, Wisconsin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sundae I think that can be a good title to have. I missed visiting Ithaca back a few years when we had an All Projects meeting there due to the change in the Federal fiscal year. A prior trip I made it to Rochester. Missed the gorges tour. Missed the project reports, etc. Well I also think of Castroville: artichokes; Lindsey: olives, etc. There is a town a bit north of here that claims to be the birthplace of Memorial day. In wikipedia? (not that I regard that as reliable.) -- |
Hey, one more question!
Well, the maiden voyage took place...
It was a great success even though the press wasn't there. Fourth speed was underpowered but fifth pushed it along pretty good. It was fun though we almost lost the motor when the motor mount became lose due to choppy water movement. Lesson, NOT GOOD FOR CHOPPY WATER. I did buy the battery box from MinnKota that integrates the circuit breaker, and makes everything neat and safe. AGM battery and charger with AGM setting. So, sharks beware, you have competition for the small fish. Thank you all! |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
Well, the maiden voyage took place... It was a great success even though the press wasn't there. Fourth speed was underpowered but fifth pushed it along pretty good. It was fun though we almost lost the motor when the motor mount became lose due to choppy water movement. Lesson, NOT GOOD FOR CHOPPY WATER. I did buy the battery box from MinnKota that integrates the circuit breaker, and makes everything neat and safe. AGM battery and charger with AGM setting. So, sharks beware, you have competition for the small fish. Thank you all! Thanks for the update! Because you are in a salt environment, I would recommend you get some dielectric grease and coat all the electrical connections with it. This will help a lot to keep the corrosion away. Things exposed to that salt air rust amazingly fast. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Feb 19, 11:42*am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: Well, the maiden voyage took place... It was a great success even though the press wasn't there. Fourth speed was underpowered but fifth pushed it along pretty good. It was fun though we almost lost the motor when the motor mount became lose due to choppy water movement. Lesson, NOT GOOD FOR CHOPPY WATER. I did buy the battery box from MinnKota that integrates the circuit breaker, and makes everything neat and safe. AGM battery and charger with AGM setting. So, sharks beware, you have competition for the small fish. Thank you all! Thanks for the update! Because you are in a salt environment, I would recommend you get some dielectric grease and coat all the electrical connections with it. *This will help a lot to keep the corrosion away. *Things exposed to that salt air rust amazingly fast. Mike OK, where do I get it, West Marine? |
Hey, one more question!
On Feb 19, 3:21 pm, donquijote1954
wrote: On Feb 19, 11:42 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Well, the maiden voyage took place... It was a great success even though the press wasn't there. Fourth speed was underpowered but fifth pushed it along pretty good. It was fun though we almost lost the motor when the motor mount became lose due to choppy water movement. Lesson, NOT GOOD FOR CHOPPY WATER. I did buy the battery box from MinnKota that integrates the circuit breaker, and makes everything neat and safe. AGM battery and charger with AGM setting. So, sharks beware, you have competition for the small fish. Thank you all! Thanks for the update! Because you are in a salt environment, I would recommend you get some dielectric grease and coat all the electrical connections with it. This will help a lot to keep the corrosion away. Things exposed to that salt air rust amazingly fast. Mike OK, where do I get it, West Marine? Oh, for cryin' out loud!! TAKE IT TO EMAIL!!! John Kuthe... |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Feb 19, 11:42 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Well, the maiden voyage took place... It was a great success even though the press wasn't there. Fourth speed was underpowered but fifth pushed it along pretty good. It was fun though we almost lost the motor when the motor mount became lose due to choppy water movement. Lesson, NOT GOOD FOR CHOPPY WATER. I did buy the battery box from MinnKota that integrates the circuit breaker, and makes everything neat and safe. AGM battery and charger with AGM setting. So, sharks beware, you have competition for the small fish. Thank you all! Thanks for the update! Because you are in a salt environment, I would recommend you get some dielectric grease and coat all the electrical connections with it. This will help a lot to keep the corrosion away. Things exposed to that salt air rust amazingly fast. Mike OK, where do I get it, West Marine? Any automotive store likely has it way cheaper. Permatex is one brand, they call theirs 'Spark Plug Boot & Electrical Connection' Dielectric Grease they sell in little $2.00 packets. There are other brands also that just say Spark plug boot protector. The stuff that gets sold in a 'specialty' shop is usually way more expensive. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Feb 20, 10:55*am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Feb 19, 11:42 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Well, the maiden voyage took place... It was a great success even though the press wasn't there. Fourth speed was underpowered but fifth pushed it along pretty good. It was fun though we almost lost the motor when the motor mount became lose due to choppy water movement. Lesson, NOT GOOD FOR CHOPPY WATER. I did buy the battery box from MinnKota that integrates the circuit breaker, and makes everything neat and safe. AGM battery and charger with AGM setting. So, sharks beware, you have competition for the small fish. Thank you all! Thanks for the update! Because you are in a salt environment, I would recommend you get some dielectric grease and coat all the electrical connections with it. *This will help a lot to keep the corrosion away. *Things exposed to that salt air rust amazingly fast. Mike OK, where do I get it, West Marine? Any automotive store likely has it way cheaper. *Permatex is one brand, they call theirs 'Spark Plug Boot & Electrical Connection' Dielectric Grease they sell in little $2.00 packets. *There are other brands also that just say Spark plug boot protector. The stuff that gets sold in a 'specialty' shop is usually way more expensive. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, the exposed parts that come to mind would be the connector and the battery terminals sticking out from the box. But I have to handle them all the time... What else? |
Hey, one more question!
TAKE IT TO EMAIL!!!
John Kuthe... |
Hey, one more question!
John Kuthe wrote:
TAKE IT TO EMAIL!!! John Kuthe... Hey John; I agree with the etiquette of taking it to email, but given the volume of postings here, it does give us something to read. Blakely |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Feb 20, 10:55 am, Mike Romain wrote: Any automotive store likely has it way cheaper. Permatex is one brand, they call theirs 'Spark Plug Boot & Electrical Connection' Dielectric Grease they sell in little $2.00 packets. There are other brands also that just say Spark plug boot protector. The stuff that gets sold in a 'specialty' shop is usually way more expensive. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, the exposed parts that come to mind would be the connector and the battery terminals sticking out from the box. But I have to handle them all the time... What else? Every part inside the box that screws together should get covered, electrical or not. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Feb 20, 8:47 pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Feb 20, 10:55 am, Mike Romain wrote: Any automotive store likely has it way cheaper. Permatex is one brand, they call theirs 'Spark Plug Boot & Electrical Connection' Dielectric Grease they sell in little $2.00 packets. There are other brands also that just say Spark plug boot protector. The stuff that gets sold in a 'specialty' shop is usually way more expensive. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, the exposed parts that come to mind would be the connector and the battery terminals sticking out from the box. But I have to handle them all the time... What else? Every part inside the box that screws together should get covered, electrical or not. Mike TAKE IT TO EMAIL, Mike!!! John Kuthe... |
Hey, one more question!
John Kuthe wrote:
On Feb 20, 8:47 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Feb 20, 10:55 am, Mike Romain wrote: Any automotive store likely has it way cheaper. Permatex is one brand, they call theirs 'Spark Plug Boot & Electrical Connection' Dielectric Grease they sell in little $2.00 packets. There are other brands also that just say Spark plug boot protector. The stuff that gets sold in a 'specialty' shop is usually way more expensive. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, the exposed parts that come to mind would be the connector and the battery terminals sticking out from the box. But I have to handle them all the time... What else? Every part inside the box that screws together should get covered, electrical or not. Mike TAKE IT TO EMAIL, Mike!!! John Kuthe... If you check the headers, you will see he does not provide a valid email address. 'You' don't have to open the posts if you are bored of the topic, show some restraint, don't click just like I don't click on the foreign US political BS posted here. He sure is full of questions though that could maybe benefit others that use electrical items in a salt water environment, be it backcountry or boat related. Likely more so in the other group this thread is crossposted to though. At least this thread isn't a religious or political thread and it is on topic. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Feb 21, 10:43*am, Mike Romain wrote:
John Kuthe wrote: On Feb 20, 8:47 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Feb 20, 10:55 am, Mike Romain wrote: Any automotive store likely has it way cheaper. *Permatex is one brand, they call theirs 'Spark Plug Boot & Electrical Connection' Dielectric Grease they sell in little $2.00 packets. *There are other brands also that just say Spark plug boot protector. The stuff that gets sold in a 'specialty' shop is usually way more expensive. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, the exposed parts that come to mind would be the connector and the battery terminals sticking out from the box. But I have to handle them all the time... What else? Every part inside the box that screws together should get covered, electrical or not. Mike TAKE IT TO EMAIL, Mike!!! John Kuthe... If you check the headers, you will see he does not provide a valid email address. 'You' don't have to open the posts if you are bored of the topic, show some restraint, don't click just like I don't click on the foreign US political BS posted here. He sure is full of questions though that could maybe benefit others that use electrical items in a salt water environment, be it backcountry or boat related. *Likely more so in the other group this thread is crossposted to though. At least this thread isn't a religious or political thread and it is on topic. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I just want to know the technical stuff. Thank you! The political stuff is happening elsewhere... ;) http://groups.google.com/group/alt.s...c44c2b4c208f00 |
Hey, one more question!
On Feb 20, 5:53*pm, donquijote1954
wrote: On Feb 20, 10:55*am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Feb 19, 11:42 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Well, the maiden voyage took place... It was a great success even though the press wasn't there. Fourth speed was underpowered but fifth pushed it along pretty good. It was fun though we almost lost the motor when the motor mount became lose due to choppy water movement. Lesson, NOT GOOD FOR CHOPPY WATER. I did buy the battery box from MinnKota that integrates the circuit breaker, and makes everything neat and safe. AGM battery and charger with AGM setting. So, sharks beware, you have competition for the small fish. Thank you all! Thanks for the update! Because you are in a salt environment, I would recommend you get some dielectric grease and coat all the electrical connections with it. *This will help a lot to keep the corrosion away. *Things exposed to that salt air rust amazingly fast. Mike OK, where do I get it, West Marine? Any automotive store likely has it way cheaper. *Permatex is one brand, they call theirs 'Spark Plug Boot & Electrical Connection' Dielectric Grease they sell in little $2.00 packets. *There are other brands also that just say Spark plug boot protector. The stuff that gets sold in a 'specialty' shop is usually way more expensive. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, the exposed parts that come to mind would be the connector and the battery terminals sticking out from the box. But I have to handle them all the time... What else?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, I've found the stuff in spray. 8 bucks though. No further questions! |
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