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Hey, one more question!
On Jan 11, 3:29*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
"WARNING: TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE, always install a 60 amp manual reset circuit breaker in line with the trolling motor positive (+) as close to the battery as possible. To order a MKR-19..." I still have yet to identify the motor you bought. *The riptide motors don't come in a 40 and they are all bow mounts according to the links you provided. *I would be in a better position to advise you about it if I could go look it up and get the schematics for it to tell you if it is fused. If you hook up the battery cables backward or think you will be capable of putting the positive on the negative, then for sure spend money on that breaker. *Other than that all I see is 4 power robbing connections. I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. Mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 12, 11:08*am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. *I like the sacrificial anode. *Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. |
Hey, one more question!
Del Cecchi wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. (some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 14, 10:57*am, Mike Romain wrote:
Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. *I like the sacrificial anode. *Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. *And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. *(some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. *It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. *If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. *You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. So you are saying I may be better off with another fuse, not the circuit breaker. OK, what kind of fuse? |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 14, 10:57 am, Mike Romain wrote: Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. (some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. So you are saying I may be better off with another fuse, not the circuit breaker. OK, what kind of fuse? Does the motor have a built in fuse? If it does, how big is it. I wouldn't think it does due to the mentioned breaker. That's kinda redundant. High end stereo shops sell inline fuses for 4 ga and various other large cable sizes that have 50 and 60 and whatever size fuse you need. You just carry a spare. Even radio shack has them, but the quality?... http://www.radioshack.com/sm-fuse-ho...8.2032234.html You then should go to an automotive store if the stereo shop doesn't have and buy dielectric grease, sometimes sold as 'spark plug boot protector'. It is inexpensive, Permatex is one brand and you fill all the fuse and cable connections with this stuff to prevent corrosion. Muck up the ends of the spare fuse with it too before duct taping it onto the cable beside the fuse holder. It works well for waterproofing, I can run my Jeep through 42" of standing water with no issues and have every connection done. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 18, 4:49*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 14, 10:57 am, Mike Romain wrote: Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. *I like the sacrificial anode. *Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. *And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. *(some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. *It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. *If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. *You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. So you are saying I may be better off with another fuse, not the circuit breaker. OK, what kind of fuse? Does the motor have a built in fuse? *If it does, how big is it. *I wouldn't think it does due to the mentioned breaker. *That's kinda redundant. High end stereo shops sell inline fuses for 4 ga and various other large cable sizes that have 50 and 60 and whatever size fuse you need. *You just carry a spare. Even radio shack has them, but the quality?...http://www.radioshack.com/sm-fuse-ho...2032302_cp-203... You then should go to an automotive store if the stereo shop doesn't have and buy dielectric grease, sometimes sold as 'spark plug boot protector'. *It is inexpensive, Permatex is one brand and you fill all the fuse and cable connections with this stuff to prevent corrosion. Muck up the ends of the spare fuse with it too before duct taping it onto the cable beside the fuse holder. *It works well for waterproofing, I can run my Jeep through 42" of standing water with no issues and have every connection done. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. *Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'll look into that, but isn't the price higher than the original MinnKota circuit breaker? ($40) |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
I'll look into that, but isn't the price higher than the original MinnKota circuit breaker? ($40) Yes it is more expensive. It will pay for itself in it's life and maintenance vs a breaker's life in the wet and salt environment. Fresh water is bad enough for corrosion, salt water is a killer. That motor has a part that gets eaten away in salt water to protect the rest, a sacrificial anode, but that wouldn't help on the cabling. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
Mike Romain wrote:
Del Cecchi wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Jan 12, 11:08 am, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: I go out at night often. In limited lighting it may happen. That is a perfect reason for having the breaker. Got it from here... http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=5297232 The manufacturer has a Q&A but doesn't address that point... They don't have up to date schematics on line that I could find, but the breaker has your butt covered. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/produc...pg=stm_riptide That is a fancy little motor. I like the sacrificial anode. Salt water would kill it otherwise. Mike Well, thank you one more time. I'll tell you know when it's up and running. Though I have to order some that stuff through the Internet. A breaker only adds two connections. And appropriate breakers should be available at any boat dealer in the area. No, a breaker usually adds 4 connections, 2 of them 'shaky' ones for power loss. The first connection is the cable from the battery, the second connection is a hinge on the breaker that makes it 'snap' open, the 3rd connection is a set of breaker points and the 4th connection is the cable out to the motor. (some might be missing the 3rd, the hinge, most have it) As anyone who has ever worked with breaker points knows, they arc and corrode easy and are a 'loss' point for power transfer, so is a hinge. Add the salt water environment the motor is designed for and unless you have one very sealed up breaker you are going to up the corrosion factor to the point of well... When it starts to get hot with use from too much resistance and the battery 'life' shortens, it will be worn out. An inline fuse is much better. It is faster to blow and doesn't have any moving or arcing points. If it blows because of a cross wiring hookup, it blows. You just carry a spare fuse taped on some place, hook the cables up right and replace the fuse. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com In my freshwater experience, the fuse holders aren't that great. But perhaps there are better ones available. |
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