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what battery for trolling motor in canoe
On Jan 4, 4:48*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, a couple more questions... According to this ad, AGM don't need special charger... "MK AGM Batteries requires no special battery charger as do GEL CELL batteries. If uncertain if the battery charger you currently using will properly charge an AGM battery please consult us before using the charger. Typically RV and Marine charging systems require no modification when using MK AGM Batteries." http://www.batterystuff.com/batterie...agm/8AU1H.html And this charger seems mighty good --and cheap... http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC...ttery-Charger/... I just 'love' that doublespeak! *LOL! As far as the charger goes, it shows on it a setting and light for the AGM battery so it's right. Did you find out the motor's draw yet? It hasn't arrived yet. I went to another store and looked for details in the box (not the manual itself) and nothing. I've come to the conclusion that the draw on that motor is top secret. Not even the manufacturer will reveal it. And to add to the confusion the guy at the store told me that it wouldn't last me more than half an hour on the 32 amp battery. Hey, the stabilizer I bought from Spring Creek to make my motoring safe is great! But the final answer is coming soon... |
what battery for trolling motor in canoe
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 4, 4:48 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, a couple more questions... According to this ad, AGM don't need special charger... "MK AGM Batteries requires no special battery charger as do GEL CELL batteries. If uncertain if the battery charger you currently using will properly charge an AGM battery please consult us before using the charger. Typically RV and Marine charging systems require no modification when using MK AGM Batteries." http://www.batterystuff.com/batterie...agm/8AU1H.html And this charger seems mighty good --and cheap... http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC...ttery-Charger/... I just 'love' that doublespeak! LOL! As far as the charger goes, it shows on it a setting and light for the AGM battery so it's right. Did you find out the motor's draw yet? It hasn't arrived yet. I went to another store and looked for details in the box (not the manual itself) and nothing. I've come to the conclusion that the draw on that motor is top secret. Not even the manufacturer will reveal it. And to add to the confusion the guy at the store told me that it wouldn't last me more than half an hour on the 32 amp battery. He is then implying the battery will draw over 30 amps! That is a serious draw needing welding or car starter sized cables.... LOL! I don't think so. But if it draws 15 amps on full.... Now that 32 AH battery is about the smallest one made though. It can take a 30 amp draw for one hour only or a 2 amp draw for 15 hours. A 100 AH battery isn't much larger in footprint.... Maybe the wind will come up or there is current, that can make the motor work on high speed which will draw amps, maybe even 15, I don't know. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Dec 25 2007, 6:41*pm, donquijote1954
wrote: On Dec 25, 3:45*pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 24, 5:00 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. I would try to find out the power draw from those motors before spending money. The 'old' school Minn Kota motors (pre 85) would last an 8 hour day fishing when pushing a freighter canoe with 5 people or a row boat with 3 or 4 people on one car sized battery. The new motors are supposed to be much better for battery life also. If you motor only draws say 2 amps on medium speed which is almost water skiing speed in a canoe, the battery should last about 15 hours. The motors I had needed a sea anchor to keep them slow enough for trolling weed patches. *We used a bucket on a rope. Mike Good idea. Can you believe that I wrote to Minn Tonka asking their motor's draw and they didn't even reply? I guess I should be able to tell when I get it.- Well, the motor is finally and I'm gonna reveal the secret... "For best results use deep cycle Minn Kota marine batteries with at least 105 amp hour rating. As a general on the water estimate, your 12 volt motor will draw 1.0 amp/hour for each pound of thrust produced when the motor is running on high." So at 40 thrust, that would be 40 amp/hour, and so... I need a big battery! If I go for an AGM that would mean something like dishing out over $200! Are you sure the fish are gonna bite that much? ;) |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Dec 25 2007, 6:41 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 25, 3:45 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 24, 5:00 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. I would try to find out the power draw from those motors before spending money. The 'old' school Minn Kota motors (pre 85) would last an 8 hour day fishing when pushing a freighter canoe with 5 people or a row boat with 3 or 4 people on one car sized battery. The new motors are supposed to be much better for battery life also. If you motor only draws say 2 amps on medium speed which is almost water skiing speed in a canoe, the battery should last about 15 hours. The motors I had needed a sea anchor to keep them slow enough for trolling weed patches. We used a bucket on a rope. Mike Good idea. Can you believe that I wrote to Minn Tonka asking their motor's draw and they didn't even reply? I guess I should be able to tell when I get it.- Well, the motor is finally and I'm gonna reveal the secret... "For best results use deep cycle Minn Kota marine batteries with at least 105 amp hour rating. As a general on the water estimate, your 12 volt motor will draw 1.0 amp/hour for each pound of thrust produced when the motor is running on high." So at 40 thrust, that would be 40 amp/hour, and so... I need a big battery! If I go for an AGM that would mean something like dishing out over $200! Are you sure the fish are gonna bite that much? ;) Man those Minn Kotas are still 'very' thirsty SOB's aren't they. What do they use on low? I went with new Mercury Marine electrics back in the 1980's for this reason. The Minn Kotas I got used. The Mercs had a gear box that took ATF in them so the DC motor could reach high speed with low load. DC motors are much more efficient at higher rpm. Oh, with twin Merc's on the back of my 18 foot cruiser, on full I 'could' have pulled a skier. I think that was 80 ft lb, don't remember for sure, it was a long time ago. I did rescue a massive Lake Cruise Ship with a tour Bus full of people once when it lost power way down a lake. It was being blown onto a reef, so I came buy with my fishing group and they tossed me a rope despite the Captain thinking my 'little' electrics couldn't save them. I pulled them back into the center of the lake and held them while help came. The fishing tour in my boat caught two 5 lb rainbow trout while we were doing it too. Gave the Bus tour folks a show when the trout went dancing across the lake on the hook. They go airborne when hooked. On a canoe, it will just fly with 40 ft lb of thrust. As far as batteries go, 70 and 105 amp hours do ring bells. I ran a fleet of boats with Fishing Guides in some of them so the cost was just part of doing business. You know, you can go to all of the local auto wreckers around here and buy used batteries for about $25.00 with a warranty. You can shop for sizes, not vehicle specific and get the biggest amp hour reserve they have. I know some folks that recondition the used batteries for Used Car lots and they put a one year warranty on them. They state they very seldom if ever have to honor the warranty, these batteries will start a car for at least a year so on an occasional use like your boat, they should be good for several years. A car battery will do just fine if you don't drain it dry before charging it again and use a nice long slow charge on it. All mine weren't marine, that's for sure. The only gotcha with a used battery is it needs it's case to be cleaned with a backing soda and water solution before you use it. This is to get rid of the acid that accumulates on the case from many charges over time. Just so you don't 'burn' fingerprints in your clothes after carrying it. (been there, done that, both things) Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 8, 11:18*am, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 25 2007, 6:41 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 25, 3:45 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: On Dec 24, 5:00 pm, donquijote1954 wrote: Hey, guys, what you think about this one... it's cheap and cute... http://westcobattery.com/chargers.html OK, I think I got it. The small battery I had in mind was rated at 32Ah, which is the rated capacity of this charger. What I can do is get two AGM small batteries (West Marine, on sale $96). Better weight distribution in the canoe and more flexibility. I would try to find out the power draw from those motors before spending money. The 'old' school Minn Kota motors (pre 85) would last an 8 hour day fishing when pushing a freighter canoe with 5 people or a row boat with 3 or 4 people on one car sized battery. The new motors are supposed to be much better for battery life also. If you motor only draws say 2 amps on medium speed which is almost water skiing speed in a canoe, the battery should last about 15 hours. The motors I had needed a sea anchor to keep them slow enough for trolling weed patches. *We used a bucket on a rope. Mike Good idea. Can you believe that I wrote to Minn Tonka asking their motor's draw and they didn't even reply? I guess I should be able to tell when I get it.- Well, the motor is finally and I'm gonna reveal the secret... "For best results use deep cycle Minn Kota marine batteries with at least 105 amp hour rating. As a general on the water estimate, your 12 volt motor will draw 1.0 amp/hour for each pound of thrust produced when the motor is running on high." So at 40 thrust, that would be 40 amp/hour, and so... I need a big battery! If I go for an AGM that would mean something like dishing out over $200! Are you sure the fish are gonna bite that much? ;) Man those Minn Kotas are still 'very' thirsty SOB's aren't they. What do they use on low? I went with new Mercury Marine electrics back in the 1980's for this reason. *The Minn Kotas I got used. *The Mercs had a gear box that took ATF in them so the DC motor could reach high speed with low load. *DC motors are much more efficient at higher rpm. Oh, with twin Merc's on the back of my 18 foot cruiser, on full I 'could' have pulled a skier. *I think that was 80 ft lb, don't remember for sure, it was a long time ago. *I did rescue a massive Lake Cruise Ship with a tour Bus full of people once when it lost power way down a lake. *It was being blown onto a reef, so I came buy with my fishing group and they tossed me a rope despite the Captain thinking my 'little' electrics couldn't save them. *I pulled them back into the center of the lake and held them while help came. *The fishing tour in my boat caught two 5 lb rainbow trout while we were doing it too. *Gave the Bus tour folks a show when the trout went dancing across the lake on the hook. They go airborne when hooked. On a canoe, it will just fly with 40 ft lb of thrust. I hope it does. As far as batteries go, 70 and 105 amp hours do ring bells. *I ran a fleet of boats with Fishing Guides in some of them so the cost was just part of doing business. You know, you can go to all of the local auto wreckers around here and buy used batteries for about $25.00 with a warranty. *You can shop for sizes, not vehicle specific and get the biggest amp hour reserve they have.. I know some folks that recondition the used batteries for Used Car lots and they put a one year warranty on them. *They state they very seldom if ever have to honor the warranty, these batteries will start a car for at least a year so on an occasional use like your boat, they should be good for several years. A car battery will do just fine if you don't drain it dry before charging it again and use a nice long slow charge on it. *All mine weren't marine, that's for sure. The only gotcha with a used battery is it needs it's case to be cleaned with a backing soda and water solution before you use it. *This is to get rid of the acid that accumulates on the case from many charges over time. *Just so you don't 'burn' fingerprints in your clothes after carrying it. *(been there, done that, both things) You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. A case with a carry handle is a great idea. Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? As mentioned, the old Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. Overload it and the bulb blows. What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing? You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use in high end stereo systems. If you blow the fuse, you paddle because the motor is cooked. I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. Cooked motor is a cooked motor. A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring. Mike |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 9, 12:29*pm, Mike Romain wrote:
donquijote1954 wrote: You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. A case with a carry handle is a great idea. Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? *As mentioned, the old Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. *Overload it and the bulb blows.. What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing? You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use in high end stereo systems. *If you blow the fuse, you paddle because the motor is cooked. I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. *Cooked motor is a cooked motor. *A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring. Mike (signed under different account) Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is... http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in...c/MKR%2D19.htm What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug? http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in...Group/Home.htm |
Hey, one more question!
On Jan 10, 11:24*am, Mike Romain wrote:
wrote: On Jan 9, 12:29 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. A case with a carry handle is a great idea. Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? *As mentioned, the old Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. *Overload it and the bulb blows. What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing? You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use in high end stereo systems. *If you blow the fuse, you paddle because the motor is cooked. I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. *Cooked motor is a cooked motor. *A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring. Mike (signed under different account) Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is... http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/CFID/5317... What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug? http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/subcatego... That is 'not' a manual! *That is a parts sales catalog. *Sure, they will sell you anything you think want. Think about it this way, every connection and plug you use has resistance which eats up battery power. *Those quick connects are cheesy at best and they corrode 'very' easily which makes more resistance which eats up more power. *Next door to one place I worked they dealt with those toy ride on mini cars like Jeeps, etc and they used that exact quick connect. *I saw hundreds of them rotted away in their stack of discards. What does the Owners Manual for your Minn Kota say about fusing? How does the motor's cables hook up to the battery? *If by nuts, then wing nuts (not in their catalog) are about the only good accessory you need. You 'could' hook up a quick connect that also would connect to your charger, but you need to go for a quality part. *Gold plated pins is best. |
Hey, one more question!
donquijote1954 wrote:
On Jan 10, 11:24 am, Mike Romain wrote: wrote: On Jan 9, 12:29 pm, Mike Romain wrote: donquijote1954 wrote: You know, I just thought that a case may just make a deep cycle battery more appealing to me. I noticed with those cases you just run the cables through the opening, having a strap to transport it. But I would use the case even for the AGM. I'll probably get extension cables and put the battery in the front, or middle according to need. Don't know whether to get the circuit breaker, which they recommend in the manual. A case with a carry handle is a great idea. Who's 'manual' recommends the circuit breaker? As mentioned, the old Minn Kotas were fused with a light bulb. Overload it and the bulb blows. What does your Minn Kota manual say about fusing? You can get inline 50A fuses designed for large gauge wire like they use in high end stereo systems. If you blow the fuse, you paddle because the motor is cooked. I can't see where a breaker would have an advantage there. Cooked motor is a cooked motor. A glass inline fuse is actually safer than a breaker because it blows faster lessening the damage to the wiring. Mike (signed under different account) Yeah, it says it in the manual. Here it is... http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/CFID/5317... What other stuff is good out of here, quick connector plug? http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/in....cfm/subcatego... That is 'not' a manual! That is a parts sales catalog. Sure, they will sell you anything you think want. Think about it this way, every connection and plug you use has resistance which eats up battery power. Those quick connects are cheesy at best and they corrode 'very' easily which makes more resistance which eats up more power. Next door to one place I worked they dealt with those toy ride on mini cars like Jeeps, etc and they used that exact quick connect. I saw hundreds of them rotted away in their stack of discards. What does the Owners Manual for your Minn Kota say about fusing? How does the motor's cables hook up to the battery? If by nuts, then wing nuts (not in their catalog) are about the only good accessory you need. You 'could' hook up a quick connect that also would connect to your charger, but you need to go for a quality part. Gold plated pins is best. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, the manual says... "WARNING: TO PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY OR PROPERTY DAMAGE, always install a 60 amp manual reset circuit breaker in line with the trolling motor positive (+) as close to the battery as possible. To order a MKR-19..." I still have yet to identify the motor you bought. The riptide motors don't come in a 40 and they are all bow mounts according to the links you provided. I would be in a better position to advise you about it if I could go look it up and get the schematics for it to tell you if it is fused. If you hook up the battery cables backward or think you will be capable of putting the positive on the negative, then for sure spend money on that breaker. Other than that all I see is 4 power robbing connections. Mike |
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