Was out at the boat to put on the cover and button things up. I tried some of the
On and Off on some residual places the other cleaners could not clean. It really
works. Next season should be a lot easier.

By the way, I spent some time draining my fuel lines to the outboard and inline
filter of residual gasoline. I think that is one place where gas can go bad over
the
winter and screw things up the next season.

Sherwin

sherwindu wrote:

After pulling my boat from the Root River in Racine Wisconsin, I noticed that
there
was an ugly band of black gunk at the waterline, especially at the upstream side
of
the boat when it was in the slip. A power wash got the mud off, but this band
of
gunk stayed on. I had the same problem last year, and had to rub like hell with

all kinds of cleaners to get it off. Someone recommended using Tidy Bowl as a
cleaner, possibly because it contains Muratic Acid. I know that Muratic Acid is

used to clean and etch concrete, so I was wary to use it on my fiberglass hull.
Was I correct about this? Is there a better way to clean off this river junk?
I
have used Zud and other similar products, but they don't get everything off and
require a lot of elbow grease. Some of this gunk is on the bottom paint, as
well,
so I have to be careful not to dissolve that.

Sherwin

sherwindu wrote:
Was out at the boat to put on the cover and button things up. I tried some of the
On and Off on some residual places the other cleaners could not clean. It really
works. Next season should be a lot easier.

By the way, I spent some time draining my fuel lines to the outboard and inline
filter of residual gasoline. I think that is one place where gas can go bad over
the
winter and screw things up the next season.


Sherwin,
You are correct that the old gas can cause real problems in the spring
time, but you really want to fill the tank with gas to reduce
condensation and add Fuel Stabilzer to the gas prior to pumping the gas
in. Then run the engine for 10 minutes to make sure you have the fuel
stabilizer in the filter and carbs/injectors.

After 10 min. fog the engine to prevent rust in the cylinders.
If this is a 4 stroke, while the engie is still warm, you will then want
to change the oil and filter. Boat/US used to have a nice write up on
how to winterize your boat and both I/O and OB engines.

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..
sherwindu wrote:
Was out at the boat to put on the cover and button things up. I tried
some of the
On and Off on some residual places the other cleaners could not clean.
It really
works. Next season should be a lot easier.

By the way, I spent some time draining my fuel lines to the outboard and
inline
filter of residual gasoline. I think that is one place where gas can go
bad over
the
winter and screw things up the next season.


Sherwin,
You are correct that the old gas can cause real problems in the spring
time, but you really want to fill the tank with gas to reduce condensation
and add Fuel Stabilzer to the gas prior to pumping the gas in. Then run
the engine for 10 minutes to make sure you have the fuel stabilizer in the
filter and carbs/injectors.

After 10 min. fog the engine to prevent rust in the cylinders.
If this is a 4 stroke, while the engie is still warm, you will then want
to change the oil and filter. Boat/US used to have a nice write up on how
to winterize your boat and both I/O and OB engines.

I drain the manifolds and the sand trap if the weather is forecast to be
cold. Other than that, I use my boat during the winter. Fact is, crab
season starts Saturday.

Reginald,

My lawnmower repair man, who has had lot's of experience with small engines,
insists that fuel stabilizers, like Stabil, do not last much longer than a few months.
If that is true, fuel with these stabilizers can go bad over the winter storage. My
outboard tank is removable, so next spring I will inspect it and let it dry out if
any water has condensed inside. I use Stabil in my fuel all season, so any traces
of gas in the engine possibly have some protection. However, I think the best
protection is to run the engine dry. I agree about the fogging though.

Sherwin

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
Was out at the boat to put on the cover and button things up. I tried some of the
On and Off on some residual places the other cleaners could not clean. It really
works. Next season should be a lot easier.

By the way, I spent some time draining my fuel lines to the outboard and inline
filter of residual gasoline. I think that is one place where gas can go bad over
the
winter and screw things up the next season.


Sherwin,
You are correct that the old gas can cause real problems in the spring
time, but you really want to fill the tank with gas to reduce
condensation and add Fuel Stabilzer to the gas prior to pumping the gas
in. Then run the engine for 10 minutes to make sure you have the fuel
stabilizer in the filter and carbs/injectors.

After 10 min. fog the engine to prevent rust in the cylinders.
If this is a 4 stroke, while the engie is still warm, you will then want
to change the oil and filter. Boat/US used to have a nice write up on
how to winterize your boat and both I/O and OB engines.