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#1
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Don White" wrote in message ... snip Picked up a replacement light unit for the trailer right side. The old one was corroded... the plastic back was split open about 3/8th inches and water would flow in amd out with each launching. Tomorrow I'll install the new unit so I can get the trailer safety checked. They gave me until the 30th to get it done. Sure was tempted to upgrade to LED rear lights but a set cost $70.00 + tax up here. Wasn't happy with the replacement tailight unit I purchased from Canadian Tire last night. Even though it is clearly a 'right side' unit...it still had the clear lens on the bottom. (meant for license plate illumination) The mechanic who safety inspected my sailboat trailer in July commented on the same thing. I called a local boat store and he had what I needed for $27.00... and a 30 mile round trip out. Decided to swallow my pride and went directly to the closest Wally-Mart.... a 20 minute walk away. They had exactly what I wanted for $17.00 and it was assembled in Mexico from US parts. Who would have thought? Anyway..last nights part goes back for a refund and I have to figure the best way to join and seal the connecting green/brown wires from the new taillight unit to the trailers wiring harness. (salt/fresh water environment) |
#2
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posted to rec.boats
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On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 13:30:47 -0300, "Don White"
wrote: I have to figure the best way to join and seal the connecting green/brown wires from the new taillight unit to the trailers wiring harness. (salt/fresh water environment) Get some butt connectors that have the shrink wrap insulation and use those. Alternatively, solder the wires together and use shrink wrap. |
#3
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On Sep 27, 6:25 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 13:30:47 -0300, "Don White" wrote: I have to figure the best way to join and seal the connecting green/brown wires from the new taillight unit to the trailers wiring harness. (salt/fresh water environment) Get some butt connectors that have the shrink wrap insulation and use those. Alternatively, solder the wires together and use shrink wrap. Butt Connectors?? If you can solder the wires together there is no question in my opinion. Hey SW got some video of that 25 horse on Crystal Lake. The steering works fine, the cables were made from jumper cables. I left the factory connections from the alligator clips and just cut them down round and drilled holes in the copper. The thing starts really nicely (with a rope or starter when it catches), water pump pumps very nicely. Gear oil great... Probably still only goes about 15 of so but I ran it for about an hour and a half today to run it out first time. I did have it running in a barrel for a couple of hours yesterday before I hit the lake ![]() |
#4
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#5
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On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 23:01:24 -0000,
wrote: Hey SW got some video of that 25 horse on Crystal Lake Well? |
#6
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On Sep 27, 9:00 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 23:01:24 -0000, wrote: Hey SW got some video of that 25 horse on Crystal Lake Well? Working on it... My old camera software won't work with Vista....grrrrrrrr |
#7
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posted to rec.boats
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On Sep 28, 10:07 am, wrote:
On Sep 27, 9:00 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 23:01:24 -0000, wrote: Hey SW got some video of that 25 horse on Crystal Lake Well? Working on it... My old camera software won't work with Vista....grrrrrrrr And I should note here that the reason for this thread is I am trying to open and edit BOATING movies, that's BOATING, so I can show yous' guys.... just sayin' ![]() |
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