On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 16:07:16 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 15:55:23 -0000,
wrote:

Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers

Does a 45 foot Bertie Sportfisherman count? :)

You've been onboard my Ranger in a heavy stern rip - remember that
"ride" we took in Narragansett Bay? We didn't get wet, but if you
remember, I wasn't taking the rips between Warwick Neck and Patience
Island for anything - I know the boat's limits.

And I think Harry is right in one respect - knowing when to and when
not to get into trouble is very important with this type of design.

Which has been everyone's point. Given the design, a little *more*
expertise is a requirement. Many of us are not quite the calibre of boater
that you and Harry are, and therefore may have trouble with that design.
--
John H

Tim wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:09 am, HK wrote:
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded on open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second line of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low, too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit may also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit, the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."
"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the boat has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings down in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or check valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"
http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...
All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers
I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and
brownstripe their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph

Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Actually, Harry, the 5900 rpm/ 16 gpm really doesn't sound that bad.
especially for what you're getting... an hr. can be a long time.



Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:10:05 -0400, HK wrote:

Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

25 mph with only 60 hp?

I don't think so.

Wayne.B wrote:
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:10:05 -0400, HK wrote:

Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

25 mph with only 60 hp?

I don't think so.


Say what?

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:



Harry Krause,
To forge an IP is against my ISP, and most ISP TOS. If you think anyone
has forged their ISP, you should report them and they will lose their
access to their internet. If you really want to get rid of me, and you
think I have ever forged my IP, send that post to .
They will cut my service off immediately.

If you remember, when you used a sock puppet to talk about your lobster
boat, that is the way someone realized it you were actually caring on an
NG conversation with yourself. You both had the exact same IP, the same
one you had had for years.


crickets

HK wrote:
Tim wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:09 am, HK wrote:
wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:40 am, "rom" wrote:
"Low Transoms - The single most critical reason boats are flooded
on open
water has to do with transom
height. Most boats that are swamped are outboard powered, with engine
cut-outs that are often only
inches above the waves. Motor wells are supposed to be the second
line of
defense when a wave comes
over an outboard's transom but, in some cases, the well is too low,
too
shallow, and/ or not sealed
adequately to the cockpit. Scuppers in the motor well and cockpit
may also
be slow to drain, especially if
they re clogged. And whenever water lingers in the well or cockpit,
the
chances of another wave coming
aboard increases. So too is the risk of being swamped."
"A boat is often much "closer" to the water than its freeboard would
indicate. A cracked
thru-hull at the boot stripe or a cutout at the transom for an
outboard
motor well that isn't
protected by a splash guard means that, as a practical matter, the
boat has
to sink only
an inch or two before it floods and heads to the bottom. Inspect
fittings
and hoses above
the waterline with the same critical eye that you used on fittings
down in
the bilge. Double-
clamp the thru-hulls and consider adding an anti-siphon loop or
check valve
to any that
are within 8" to 12" of the waterline"
http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/R...PDF_files/sect...

All right, already, we get it. If you don't know how to use a tool,
you probably should not buy it. You should always buy the right tool
for your needs and use in a manner consistant with it's design, and
within the limits of it's intended function. If you are skeeeeeret of
a low transom boat, don't go out in one! If you are in a low transom
boat, take proper precautions, if you are in a big unfloated boat,
take other precautions, if you are in a dinghy.... Don't go out in a
blow... Geeze guys, maybe it's time to revisit your roots, I doubt you
all started boating on 40 foot trawlers
I have a feeling if you were out in a boat with Reggie Retardo or his
clone ROM and you hit another boat's wake, they'd both pee and
brownstripe their shorts.

Got some preliminary performance figures on the new boat:

1000 RPM 4.3 mph .70 gph

4000 RPM 26.2 mph 6.9 gph

4500 RPM 30 mph 8.9 gph

Engine is too young for a sustained wide-open run, but I am guessing
5900 rpm, 40+ mph, and (gulp) 16+ gph.

This is with a 3000 pound boat, 475 pound engine, 50 gallons of fuel
(about 340 pounds), two guys aboard (425 pounds), about about 150 pounds
of assorted "gear." Turning a 15-1/4 x 15" Yamaha black stainless prop
with a 2:1 gear ratio in the engine lower unit. Temp in the 90s, eight
knot breeze, seas calm.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Actually, Harry, the 5900 rpm/ 16 gpm really doesn't sound that bad.
especially for what you're getting... an hr. can be a long time.



Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

Harry,
I thought you did all of your fishing 15 minutes from your boat ramp,
and then drift fished for the rest of the day. Why spend all that time
looking for the sweet spot for 25 hrs a year?

On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:37:40 -0400, HK wrote:

Wayne.B wrote:
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:10:05 -0400, HK wrote:

Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

25 mph with only 60 hp?

I don't think so.


Say what?

At 6 gph the engine would be putting out about 60 hp, about 1 gph for
every 10 hp actually developed, same for most gas engines.

How fast would the boat go with a 60 horse running wide open?

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:10:05 -0400, HK wrote:

Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.

25 mph with only 60 hp?

I don't think so.

When you use a boat for only 115 hours in 4 years, who gives a crap about
hourly fuel consumption.

Wayne.B wrote:
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:37:40 -0400, HK wrote:

Wayne.B wrote:
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:10:05 -0400, HK wrote:

Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.
25 mph with only 60 hp?

I don't think so.

Say what?

At 6 gph the engine would be putting out about 60 hp, about 1 gph for
every 10 hp actually developed, same for most gas engines.

How fast would the boat go with a 60 horse running wide open?


Ahh, I had a feeling you were referring to the formulae, but you were a
bit oblique.

You did note I posted "I'll be working to find..."

According to a data sheet I have from the manufacturer, a fully loaded
boat just like mine with a 150 four cycle yamaha hit 25 mph on the nose
at 4000 rpm with a fuel burn of 7gph. That was with a pretty full fuel
tank (619 pounds), a full livewell (250 pounds of water), 130 pounds of
gear and 365 pounds of "guys" aboard.

I talked to the engineer who ran that test. He believes that with my
typical fuel load (half a tank, max, 310 pounds), nothing in the
livewell, et cetera, I can get close to 6gph at 25 mph. We'll see.

Calif Bill wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 17:10:05 -0400, HK wrote:

Oh, it's not "too" bad, it's just more per hour than I like to burn.
I'll be working to find that sweet spot of around 25 mph and just under
6gph, if it is findable.
25 mph with only 60 hp?

I don't think so.

When you use a boat for only 115 hours in 4 years, who gives a crap about
hourly fuel consumption.




When you have more than one boat, Bilious, you have choices as to which
one to use on a given day.