With my Marquis, I got a couple spare props, one looks "ol" and the
other has some pretty narly dings in it. As cheap as new aluminum
props are getting, is is wise to just get a new spare (less than 120
dollars)? or have the old one rebuild for $60-85?

On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 13:42:12 -0000, Tim wrote:

have the old one rebuild for $60-85

What he said.

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 13:42:12 -0000, Tim wrote:

have the old one rebuild for $60-85

What he said.

That's what I was thinking, Tom. A quality rebuild should be as good
as a new one, I know. Especially if done by a reputable prop shop.
But I was wondering about the metals when they weld them back, if they
are prone to be weak.

probably not.

I know I won't be going back to stainless. I learned an expensive
lesson on my CC 169, when I hit a log. the hub didn't break loose when
I hit a log or something, and it busted the gears in my lower end.

But the prop survived! ?:

Tim wrote:
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 13:42:12 -0000, Tim wrote:

have the old one rebuild for $60-85
What he said.

That's what I was thinking, Tom. A quality rebuild should be as good
as a new one, I know. Especially if done by a reputable prop shop.
But I was wondering about the metals when they weld them back, if they
are prone to be weak.

probably not.

I know I won't be going back to stainless. I learned an expensive
lesson on my CC 169, when I hit a log. the hub didn't break loose when
I hit a log or something, and it busted the gears in my lower end.

But the prop survived! ?:




I recall seeing a rig at a dealer's with a busted lower end. The owner
hit some old concrete near the boat ramp. He dinged his stainless prop
and tore the crap out of his lower unit gearing. Stainless props are a
mixed blessing.

I never had any problems with aluminum props. Never noticed any great
increase in anything the one time I switched to stainless.

"Tim" wrote in message
oups.com...
With my Marquis, I got a couple spare props, one looks "ol" and the
other has some pretty narly dings in it. As cheap as new aluminum
props are getting, is is wise to just get a new spare (less than 120
dollars)? or have the old one rebuild for $60-85?


Check Ebay first. You may be able to pick up a new prop for less than a
rebuilt one (in my case I snatched a new one for $40 plus $15 shipping).

On Jun 22, 5:47 pm, HK wrote:
Tim wrote:
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 13:42:12 -0000, Tim wrote:

have the old one rebuild for $60-85
What he said.

That's what I was thinking, Tom. A quality rebuild should be as good
as a new one, I know. Especially if done by a reputable prop shop.
But I was wondering about the metals when they weld them back, if they
are prone to be weak.

probably not.

I know I won't be going back to stainless. I learned an expensive
lesson on my CC 169, when I hit a log. the hub didn't break loose when
I hit a log or something, and it busted the gears in my lower end.

But the prop survived! ?:

I recall seeing a rig at a dealer's with a busted lower end. The owner
hit some old concrete near the boat ramp. He dinged his stainless prop
and tore the crap out of his lower unit gearing. Stainless props are a
mixed blessing.

I never had any problems with aluminum props. Never noticed any great
increase in anything the one time I switched to stainless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I really can't see any advantage to stainless, myself, with the
exception is that they look cool. I suppose they don't cavitate
either.

But I agree about the "mixed blessing", Harry.

On Jun 22, 6:02 pm, "JimH" ask wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

oups.com...

With my Marquis, I got a couple spare props, one looks "ol" and the
other has some pretty narly dings in it. As cheap as new aluminum
props are getting, is is wise to just get a new spare (less than 120
dollars)? or have the old one rebuild for $60-85?

Check Ebay first. You may be able to pick up a new prop for less than a
rebuilt one (in my case I snatched a new one for $40 plus $15 shipping).

I've thought of that too, Jim. the problem I'm seeing is that ALL 3
props I have must be a no-named aftermarket, because there's no
markings, pitch sized , NOTHING marked on any of these props. and
knowing my luck, What I'd order would always be wrong.

I run stainless. Many lakes the se have low spots with soft bottoms.
Stainless tolerates groundings at low speeds as long as it's not rock.

"HK" wrote in message
...
Tim wrote:
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 13:42:12 -0000, Tim wrote:

have the old one rebuild for $60-85
What he said.

That's what I was thinking, Tom. A quality rebuild should be as good
as a new one, I know. Especially if done by a reputable prop shop.
But I was wondering about the metals when they weld them back, if they
are prone to be weak.

probably not.

I know I won't be going back to stainless. I learned an expensive
lesson on my CC 169, when I hit a log. the hub didn't break loose when
I hit a log or something, and it busted the gears in my lower end.

But the prop survived! ?:




I recall seeing a rig at a dealer's with a busted lower end. The owner hit
some old concrete near the boat ramp. He dinged his stainless prop and
tore the crap out of his lower unit gearing. Stainless props are a mixed
blessing.

I never had any problems with aluminum props. Never noticed any great
increase in anything the one time I switched to stainless.

jamesgangnc wrote:
I run stainless. Many lakes the se have low spots with soft bottoms.
Stainless tolerates groundings at low speeds as long as it's not rock.

"HK" wrote in message
...
Tim wrote:
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jun 2007 13:42:12 -0000, Tim wrote:

have the old one rebuild for $60-85
What he said.
That's what I was thinking, Tom. A quality rebuild should be as good
as a new one, I know. Especially if done by a reputable prop shop.
But I was wondering about the metals when they weld them back, if they
are prone to be weak.

probably not.

I know I won't be going back to stainless. I learned an expensive
lesson on my CC 169, when I hit a log. the hub didn't break loose when
I hit a log or something, and it busted the gears in my lower end.

But the prop survived! ?:



I recall seeing a rig at a dealer's with a busted lower end. The owner hit
some old concrete near the boat ramp. He dinged his stainless prop and
tore the crap out of his lower unit gearing. Stainless props are a mixed
blessing.

I never had any problems with aluminum props. Never noticed any great
increase in anything the one time I switched to stainless.




That makes sense to me. I've been running a stainless prop on my Parker,
and I have on occasion churned up a bit of sandy bottom. No rocks, though.

jamesgangnc wrote:
I run stainless. Many lakes the se have low spots with soft bottoms.
Stainless tolerates groundings at low speeds as long as it's not rock.

confessingly, that was my problem. I was running at speed and hit
something like a stump or rock.

Took the lower end gears and turned them to the consistancy of metal
hamburger.

I figure if I was running an aluminum prop and the same thing had
happened I know it would have demolished the prop, but chances are the
lower end would have been ok