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The Right Stuff for...
....a seam-filling project.
It's been a long time since I have worked on a wood boat, so long that even if I could remember what I used to fill seams and then paint them, I'm sure it no longer would be available. So, here's what we have...a seam between two planks on a deck. I want to fill the seam with some sort of material that will dry to a fairly smooth, sandable surface, be waterproof, and be paintable. Plastic Wood? Anything better? I remember some "Petit" brand products from 50 years ago, but I doubt they're still manufactured. ? |
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"Harry Krause" wrote in message ... ...a seam-filling project. It's been a long time since I have worked on a wood boat, so long that even if I could remember what I used to fill seams and then paint them, I'm sure it no longer would be available. So, here's what we have...a seam between two planks on a deck. I want to fill the seam with some sort of material that will dry to a fairly smooth, sandable surface, be waterproof, and be paintable. Plastic Wood? Anything better? I remember some "Petit" brand products from 50 years ago, but I doubt they're still manufactured. ? Bondo. |
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Bondo.- Hide quoted text - Bondo is probably to brittle, as is plastic wood. the best stuff to use is ***************** or ***************** - Show quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman) and at the risk of bad karma, I would rather see your project rot behind your doublewide. Besides, anyone who would consider filling a beautiful wooden boat with plastic wood, has obviously never worked on a real wooden boat anyway, save a plywood skiff. Try the builders group, maybe someone there doesn't know you yet. |
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On Apr 30, 3:46 pm, wrote:
Bondo.- Hide quoted text - Bondo is probably to brittle, as is plastic wood. the best stuff to use is ***************** or ***************** - Show quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman) and at the risk of bad karma, I would rather see your project rot behind your doublewide. Besides, anyone who would consider filling a beautiful wooden boat with plastic wood, has obviously never worked on a real wooden boat anyway, save a plywood skiff. Try the builders group, maybe someone there doesn't know you yet. This is funny, harry has to pretend I am in his imaginary kill file ;) |
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Bo wrote:
"Harry Krause" wrote in message ... ...a seam-filling project. It's been a long time since I have worked on a wood boat, so long that even if I could remember what I used to fill seams and then paint them, I'm sure it no longer would be available. So, here's what we have...a seam between two planks on a deck. I want to fill the seam with some sort of material that will dry to a fairly smooth, sandable surface, be waterproof, and be paintable. Plastic Wood? Anything better? I remember some "Petit" brand products from 50 years ago, but I doubt they're still manufactured. ? Bondo. Bondo? I don't think so. |
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On Apr 30, 4:55 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On 30 Apr 2007 13:04:23 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 3:46 pm, wrote: Bondo.- Hide quoted text - Bondo is probably to brittle, as is plastic wood. the best stuff to use is ***************** or ***************** - Show quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman) and at the risk of bad karma, I would rather see your project rot behind your doublewide. Besides, anyone who would consider filling a beautiful wooden boat with plastic wood, has obviously never worked on a real wooden boat anyway, save a plywood skiff. Try the builders group, maybe someone there doesn't know you yet. This is funny, harry has to pretend I am in his imaginary kill file ;) I wonder if I'm in his kill file. If I am, he won't see your posts this way either. HTH! CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Now you ruined my fun. Anyway, little secret, harry does not KF anyone, it would ruin his fun. He screwed up the other day and replied directly to one of my posts, guess he is having trouble keeping track of his neverending bull****. |
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wrote in message ps.com... On Apr 30, 4:55 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On 30 Apr 2007 13:04:23 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 3:46 pm, wrote: Bondo.- Hide quoted text - Bondo is probably to brittle, as is plastic wood. the best stuff to use is ***************** or ***************** - Show quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman) and at the risk of bad karma, I would rather see your project rot behind your doublewide. Besides, anyone who would consider filling a beautiful wooden boat with plastic wood, has obviously never worked on a real wooden boat anyway, save a plywood skiff. Try the builders group, maybe someone there doesn't know you yet. This is funny, harry has to pretend I am in his imaginary kill file ;) I wonder if I'm in his kill file. If I am, he won't see your posts this way either. HTH! CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Now you ruined my fun. Anyway, little secret, harry does not KF anyone, it would ruin his fun. He screwed up the other day and replied directly to one of my posts, guess he is having trouble keeping track of his neverending bull****. Why is it you can never find a sheriff when you need one? |
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wrote in message ps.com... Bondo.- Hide quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman)..... Lyman, not llyman. So why not buy one? They are readily available and fairly inexpensive. |
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:36:51 -0400, Harry Krause
wrote: ...a seam-filling project. It's been a long time since I have worked on a wood boat, so long that even if I could remember what I used to fill seams and then paint them, I'm sure it no longer would be available. So, here's what we have...a seam between two planks on a deck. I want to fill the seam with some sort of material that will dry to a fairly smooth, sandable surface, be waterproof, and be paintable. Plastic Wood? Anything better? I remember some "Petit" brand products from 50 years ago, but I doubt they're still manufactured. Well, it depends on how bad the seam is. You could use bedding compound which is a fairing composite which I used to use years ago - Interlux still makes a good compound - a little pricey. Or, you could use lead putty which I also don't know if they make anymore with lead powder and linseed oil. There is another way to make a bedding compound which I saw used on a Towne Class sail boat a couple of years ago - fine ground calcium carbonate and linseed oil - make a paste. There are other options like chopped oakum and linseed oil - probably the best through is a bedding compound. |
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On Apr 30, 5:12 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On 30 Apr 2007 14:04:19 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 4:55 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On 30 Apr 2007 13:04:23 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 3:46 pm, wrote: Bondo.- Hide quoted text - Bondo is probably to brittle, as is plastic wood. the best stuff to use is ***************** or ***************** - Show quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman) and at the risk of bad karma, I would rather see your project rot behind your doublewide. Besides, anyone who would consider filling a beautiful wooden boat with plastic wood, has obviously never worked on a real wooden boat anyway, save a plywood skiff. Try the builders group, maybe someone there doesn't know you yet. This is funny, harry has to pretend I am in his imaginary kill file ;) I wonder if I'm in his kill file. If I am, he won't see your posts this way either. HTH! CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Now you ruined my fun. Anyway, little secret, harry does not KF anyone, it would ruin his fun. He screwed up the other day and replied directly to one of my posts, guess he is having trouble keeping track of his neverending bull****. Or maybe your self- aggrandizing mojo is so unspeakably great it gets by the average bozo-bin. I know that when I stop yawning, I'll be REALLY impressed by you. CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Hummm, my input was that bondo and plastic is too britle, you contribution is... Anyway, Lyman, that's it Lyman frekin fingers never work right. I don't have the facility or time to restore anything much less run and store it when it's done. And as to the sherrif, I just wish someone here would let me in on the secret handshake (or dickpull) that allows you all to quip back and fourth. Anyway, in case harry is really working on a boat he should look into 3M 5200 or of course there is always the traditional cotton stuffing. There Charlie, now where's your contributon.. Gilmore Girls like I said before... |
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:27:58 -0400, Harry Krause
wrote: Bondo? I don't think so. I agree with that. Ask the guys on rec.boats.building, someone will have a good suggestion. What kind of boat is this? |
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Oh yeah, sikaflex might also be an option although I have never used it myself, asswipe. |
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JimH wrote:
wrote in message ps.com... Bondo.- Hide quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman)..... Lyman, not llyman. So why not buy one? They are readily available and fairly inexpensive. A fiberglass Lyman (with the mold pulled off an actual hull), and with a mahogany interior (decks, seats, floorboards) would be nice. Those riveted clinker-built hulls of the original Lymans were a pain in the ass. Cruisers and Thompson bolted their hulls. Lymans had wonderful lines, though. |
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Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:36:51 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: ...a seam-filling project. It's been a long time since I have worked on a wood boat, so long that even if I could remember what I used to fill seams and then paint them, I'm sure it no longer would be available. So, here's what we have...a seam between two planks on a deck. I want to fill the seam with some sort of material that will dry to a fairly smooth, sandable surface, be waterproof, and be paintable. Plastic Wood? Anything better? I remember some "Petit" brand products from 50 years ago, but I doubt they're still manufactured. Well, it depends on how bad the seam is. You could use bedding compound which is a fairing composite which I used to use years ago - Interlux still makes a good compound - a little pricey. Or, you could use lead putty which I also don't know if they make anymore with lead powder and linseed oil. There is another way to make a bedding compound which I saw used on a Towne Class sail boat a couple of years ago - fine ground calcium carbonate and linseed oil - make a paste. There are other options like chopped oakum and linseed oil - probably the best through is a bedding compound. These aren't fancy planks, and they have been painted before. A bedding compound that doesn't really harden and become sandable, though, would not be the answer I seek here. |
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Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:27:58 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Bondo? I don't think so. I agree with that. Ask the guys on rec.boats.building, someone will have a good suggestion. What kind of boat is this? It's an old rowing dory. The hull is in good shape, the small forward deck looks like pine. I might remove the deck entirely, and replace it with a couple of pieces of 1" oak I have in the garage, or buy a nice piece of marine ply. |
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On Apr 30, 5:59 pm, Harry Krause wrote:
Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:27:58 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Bondo? I don't think so. I agree with that. Ask the guys on rec.boats.building, someone will have a good suggestion. What kind of boat is this? It's an old rowing dory. The hull is in good shape, the small forward deck looks like pine. I might remove the deck entirely, and replace it with a couple of pieces of 1" oak I have in the garage, or buy a nice piece of marine ply. It "may" be a bad idea to use the oak, especially if it is heavier than the origional wood. I don't know how big the deck is but you could offset the designed pitch of the boat which could result in poor handling, or even safety issues. Marine ply is still pretty heavy compared to pine, look into Occoume marine usually sold in the BS 1088 classification. It may be a better bet and much more stable than typical marine ply. Oh by the way, chuck you farley, still waiting for your valuable input here. |
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.. Oh by the way, chuck you farley, still waiting for
your valuable input here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oooops, sorry charlie, guess I should have read your profile before I asked about your valuable input. Not to worry, now that I have, I won't be holding my breath. |
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The Right Stuff for...
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:59:52 -0400, Harry Krause
wrote: Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:27:58 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Bondo? I don't think so. I agree with that. Ask the guys on rec.boats.building, someone will have a good suggestion. What kind of boat is this? It's an old rowing dory. The hull is in good shape, the small forward deck looks like pine. I might remove the deck entirely, and replace it with a couple of pieces of 1" oak I have in the garage, or buy a nice piece of marine ply. Ahem... I happen to have in dry storage, 12 pieces of 3 inch thick, 24 inch wide, mostly clear pine which would be perfect for that project. You'd have to resaw the planks, but they would be perfect. I'll let you have them cheap. |
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On Apr 30, 7:26 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On 30 Apr 2007 14:40:06 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 5:12 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On 30 Apr 2007 14:04:19 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 4:55 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On 30 Apr 2007 13:04:23 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 3:46 pm, wrote: Bondo.- Hide quoted text - Bondo is probably to brittle, as is plastic wood. the best stuff to use is ***************** or ***************** - Show quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman) and at the risk of bad karma, I would rather see your project rot behind your doublewide. Besides, anyone who would consider filling a beautiful wooden boat with plastic wood, has obviously never worked on a real wooden boat anyway, save a plywood skiff. Try the builders group, maybe someone there doesn't know you yet. This is funny, harry has to pretend I am in his imaginary kill file ;) I wonder if I'm in his kill file. If I am, he won't see your posts this way either. HTH! CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Now you ruined my fun. Anyway, little secret, harry does not KF anyone, it would ruin his fun. He screwed up the other day and replied directly to one of my posts, guess he is having trouble keeping track of his neverending bull****. Or maybe your self- aggrandizing mojo is so unspeakably great it gets by the average bozo-bin. I know that when I stop yawning, I'll be REALLY impressed by you. CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Hummm, my input was that bondo and plastic is too britle, you contribution is... Anyway, Lyman, that's it Lyman frekin fingers never work right. I don't have the facility or time to restore anything much less run and store it when it's done. And as to the sherrif, I just wish someone here would let me in on the secret handshake (or dickpull) that allows you all to quip back and fourth. Anyway, in case harry is really working on a boat he should look into 3M 5200 or of course there is always the traditional cotton stuffing. There Charlie, now where's your contributon.. Gilmore Girls like I said before... 5200 is a bad suggestion. There are very few if any proper uses for it on a boat. CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Topside only, been a while. |
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On Apr 30, 7:26 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On 30 Apr 2007 14:40:06 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 5:12 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On 30 Apr 2007 14:04:19 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 4:55 pm, Charlie Morgan wrote: On 30 Apr 2007 13:04:23 -0700, wrote: On Apr 30, 3:46 pm, wrote: Bondo.- Hide quoted text - Bondo is probably to brittle, as is plastic wood. the best stuff to use is ***************** or ***************** - Show quoted text - As much as I love old wooden boats, (sell my soul for a llyman) and at the risk of bad karma, I would rather see your project rot behind your doublewide. Besides, anyone who would consider filling a beautiful wooden boat with plastic wood, has obviously never worked on a real wooden boat anyway, save a plywood skiff. Try the builders group, maybe someone there doesn't know you yet. This is funny, harry has to pretend I am in his imaginary kill file ;) I wonder if I'm in his kill file. If I am, he won't see your posts this way either. HTH! CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Now you ruined my fun. Anyway, little secret, harry does not KF anyone, it would ruin his fun. He screwed up the other day and replied directly to one of my posts, guess he is having trouble keeping track of his neverending bull****. Or maybe your self- aggrandizing mojo is so unspeakably great it gets by the average bozo-bin. I know that when I stop yawning, I'll be REALLY impressed by you. CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Hummm, my input was that bondo and plastic is too britle, you contribution is... Anyway, Lyman, that's it Lyman frekin fingers never work right. I don't have the facility or time to restore anything much less run and store it when it's done. And as to the sherrif, I just wish someone here would let me in on the secret handshake (or dickpull) that allows you all to quip back and fourth. Anyway, in case harry is really working on a boat he should look into 3M 5200 or of course there is always the traditional cotton stuffing. There Charlie, now where's your contributon.. Gilmore Girls like I said before... 5200 is a bad suggestion. There are very few if any proper uses for it on a boat. CWM- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - What would you use? Remember he is talking above the waterline. |
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 19:41:15 -0400, Charlie Morgan wrote:
It's been more than a while. 5200 is the wrong tool for almost any job you can name on a boat other than rebedding a keel. Even that is open to intelligent discussion. Do you arc weld your key in the ignition to make sure it won't fall out? Brush your teeth with battery acid to make sure no food particles remain? Really. Hmmm.... How about, oh, sealing a T-top or a stern hung transducer attached to a fairing block? Or sealing off flush cleats on the gunwale? |
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On Apr 30, 7:18 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:59:52 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:27:58 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Bondo? I don't think so. I agree with that. Ask the guys on rec.boats.building, someone will have a good suggestion. What kind of boat is this? It's an old rowing dory. The hull is in good shape, the small forward deck looks like pine. I might remove the deck entirely, and replace it with a couple of pieces of 1" oak I have in the garage, or buy a nice piece of marine ply. Ahem... I happen to have in dry storage, 12 pieces of 3 inch thick, 24 inch wide, mostly clear pine which would be perfect for that project. You'd have to resaw the planks, but they would be perfect. I'll let you have them cheap.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Wow, 24 wide, clear, air dried? I bet it was. Man I think I'm gettin' a hard on. Wonder if you could even replace that at any price now adays. |
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Unless you have an intelligent suggestion of your own, this
conversation is over. Glad I did not hold my breath |
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wrote in message oups.com... . Oh by the way, chuck you farley, still waiting for your valuable input here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oooops, sorry charlie, guess I should have read your profile before I asked about your valuable input. Not to worry, now that I have, I won't be holding my breath. What's a "profile"? Eisboch |
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 19:53:02 -0400, Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 23:47:44 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 19:41:15 -0400, Charlie Morgan wrote: It's been more than a while. 5200 is the wrong tool for almost any job you can name on a boat other than rebedding a keel. Even that is open to intelligent discussion. Do you arc weld your key in the ignition to make sure it won't fall out? Brush your teeth with battery acid to make sure no food particles remain? Really. Hmmm.... How about, oh, sealing a T-top Absolutely NEVER! or a stern hung transducer attached to a fairing block? Possibly Or sealing off flush cleats on the gunwale? Absolutely NEVER! Ok, objections noted. Why? |
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 19:58:02 -0400, "RCE" wrote:
What's a "profile"? Remember when the kids were little and you used a desklamp to make shadows on a wall and had the kids sit sideways while you traced out the outline of their head on black paper? Tha's a profile. :) ~~ I know - I know - wiseass ~~ ~~ It's my destiny ~~ |
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On Apr 30, 7:58 pm, "RCE" wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... . Oh by the way, chuck you farley, still waiting for your valuable input here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oooops, sorry charlie, guess I should have read your profile before I asked about your valuable input. Not to worry, now that I have, I won't be holding my breath. What's a "profile"? Eisboch look at the top of the post next to your name where it says "view profile". You can go there and read past posts by a poster to determine if he/she has posted relavent information, or if they just throw intellectually lazy attacks to gain attention. Me, sometimes I troll, sometimes I try to add good info but you can make your own judgements there. |
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wrote in message oups.com... On Apr 30, 7:58 pm, "RCE" wrote: wrote in message oups.com... . Oh by the way, chuck you farley, still waiting for your valuable input here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oooops, sorry charlie, guess I should have read your profile before I asked about your valuable input. Not to worry, now that I have, I won't be holding my breath. What's a "profile"? Eisboch look at the top of the post next to your name where it says "view profile". You can go there and read past posts by a poster to determine if he/she has posted relavent information, or if they just throw intellectually lazy attacks to gain attention. Me, sometimes I troll, sometimes I try to add good info but you can make your own judgements there. Must be a "Google Groups" thing. Eisboch |
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On Apr 30, 8:17 pm, "RCE" wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... On Apr 30, 7:58 pm, "RCE" wrote: wrote in message groups.com... . Oh by the way, chuck you farley, still waiting for your valuable input here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oooops, sorry charlie, guess I should have read your profile before I asked about your valuable input. Not to worry, now that I have, I won't be holding my breath. What's a "profile"? Eisboch look at the top of the post next to your name where it says "view profile". You can go there and read past posts by a poster to determine if he/she has posted relavent information, or if they just throw intellectually lazy attacks to gain attention. Me, sometimes I troll, sometimes I try to add good info but you can make your own judgements there. Must be a "Google Groups" thing. Eisboch- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Must be, either way it is a tool I will be using more often before responding to trolls. The attacker here seems to be very contrarian in many groups, without much positive input that I can see. Would still like to hear his suggestion as a solution to the origional post, hell, he could turn over a new leaf ;) |
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Wow, 24 wide, clear, air dried? I bet it was. Man I think I'm gettin' a hard on. Wonder if you could even replace that at any price now adays. Well, it can be done, but it's hard to do. You can get custom millers like Hull Forest Products over in Pomfret to find some for you, but it's not easy. I bought them about ten years ago for a boat project I wanted to do - build a Swampscott Dory, but I became involved in a different restoration project and just never got around to it. Forgot to add that they are twelve feet long.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - OK, now you'r just rubbin' it in. |
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Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:59:52 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:27:58 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Bondo? I don't think so. I agree with that. Ask the guys on rec.boats.building, someone will have a good suggestion. What kind of boat is this? It's an old rowing dory. The hull is in good shape, the small forward deck looks like pine. I might remove the deck entirely, and replace it with a couple of pieces of 1" oak I have in the garage, or buy a nice piece of marine ply. Ahem... I happen to have in dry storage, 12 pieces of 3 inch thick, 24 inch wide, mostly clear pine which would be perfect for that project. You'd have to resaw the planks, but they would be perfect. I'll let you have them cheap. A bit of overkill there. 3" thick? Sheesh. |
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RCE wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... . Oh by the way, chuck you farley, still waiting for your valuable input here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oooops, sorry charlie, guess I should have read your profile before I asked about your valuable input. Not to worry, now that I have, I won't be holding my breath. What's a "profile"? Eisboch It's what you used to have before you started exercising. |
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 20:41:28 -0400, Harry Krause
wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:59:52 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:27:58 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Bondo? I don't think so. I agree with that. Ask the guys on rec.boats.building, someone will have a good suggestion. What kind of boat is this? It's an old rowing dory. The hull is in good shape, the small forward deck looks like pine. I might remove the deck entirely, and replace it with a couple of pieces of 1" oak I have in the garage, or buy a nice piece of marine ply. Ahem... I happen to have in dry storage, 12 pieces of 3 inch thick, 24 inch wide, mostly clear pine which would be perfect for that project. You'd have to resaw the planks, but they would be perfect. I'll let you have them cheap. A bit of overkill there. 3" thick? Sheesh. Hey - find a mill and have them resawed. |
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On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 20:43:29 -0400, Harry Krause
wrote: RCE wrote: wrote in message oups.com... . Oh by the way, chuck you farley, still waiting for your valuable input here.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oooops, sorry charlie, guess I should have read your profile before I asked about your valuable input. Not to worry, now that I have, I won't be holding my breath. What's a "profile"? It's what you used to have before you started exercising. ROTFL!!!! |
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Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 20:41:28 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:59:52 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:27:58 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: Bondo? I don't think so. I agree with that. Ask the guys on rec.boats.building, someone will have a good suggestion. What kind of boat is this? It's an old rowing dory. The hull is in good shape, the small forward deck looks like pine. I might remove the deck entirely, and replace it with a couple of pieces of 1" oak I have in the garage, or buy a nice piece of marine ply. Ahem... I happen to have in dry storage, 12 pieces of 3 inch thick, 24 inch wide, mostly clear pine which would be perfect for that project. You'd have to resaw the planks, but they would be perfect. I'll let you have them cheap. A bit of overkill there. 3" thick? Sheesh. Hey - find a mill and have them resawed. Uh, this "deck" is a bit of cover for the anchor rode at the bow. It's about 18" long, and maybe 18" wide at its widest point. It's shaped like a triangle and is two pieces of maybe 1/2" pine support by a little bit of frame. It looks original to the boat, which is at least 50 years old, and has been living in a shed for a long, long time. The planks in the hull are in pretty good shape, no rot, no cracks. I'm just messing around with it at the moment. |
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"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:36:51 -0400, Harry Krause wrote: ...a seam-filling project. It's been a long time since I have worked on a wood boat, so long that even if I could remember what I used to fill seams and then paint them, I'm sure it no longer would be available. So, here's what we have...a seam between two planks on a deck. I want to fill the seam with some sort of material that will dry to a fairly smooth, sandable surface, be waterproof, and be paintable. Plastic Wood? Anything better? I remember some "Petit" brand products from 50 years ago, but I doubt they're still manufactured. Well, it depends on how bad the seam is. You could use bedding compound which is a fairing composite which I used to use years ago - Interlux still makes a good compound - a little pricey. Or, you could use lead putty which I also don't know if they make anymore with lead powder and linseed oil. There is another way to make a bedding compound which I saw used on a Towne Class sail boat a couple of years ago - fine ground calcium carbonate and linseed oil - make a paste. There are other options like chopped oakum and linseed oil - probably the best through is a bedding compound. How about a butyl rubber compound. Isn't that the stuff they used on the decks of battleships? |
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