Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

Subject: Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
From: "Lloyd Sumpter"

As I said earlier, I plan to.

Sorry, missed that part.

Other option is simply not have a sink in
the head until I've replaced the sewage seacock.


Is there room under the sink to let it drain into a bucket that you could use
to throw the sink leavings overboard from time to time?

Capt. Bill

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 03:00:20 +0000, Peggie Hall wrote:

Most of us here know you want to do the right thing and eventually will,


Lloyd's been around here a long time...I know him, 'cuz I have
too--maybe even longer. He asked for advice about the things he wanted
he wanted advice about..and deliberately didn't ask for any about this
particular plumbing problem 'cuz he KNEW we'd tell him not to do it that
way, but he'd already decided to do it anyway.

Right, Lloyd? :)))


Yup...because you'd tell me to get the haywagon welded! ;)
So can I infer from this that you would recommend the 1.5" hose over the
1"? (Flailing away at that dead horse...)

Love ya anyway, though!


Love ya back! and I do appreciate your help!

Lloyd

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

As I said, this is just the head sink - very little use and pretty much
all water. No big deal.

It's a bigger deal than you think, Lloyd...'cuz ANY water in a bilge
that's left to sit turns into a dark stagnant pond...and dark stagnant
ponds STINK.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

So can I infer from this that you would recommend the 1.5" hose over the
1"? (Flailing away at that dead horse...)

Not necessarily. The discharge on a macerator is 1"...I recommend that
the hose and the thru-hull be the same size. And that the hose doesn't
exceed the maximum length specified. It's hard to go too far wrong by
following the directions....it's when people decide to get creative that
they usually create more problems than they solve.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:07:34 +0000, Peggie Hall wrote:

As I said, this is just the head sink - very little use and pretty much
all water. No big deal.

It's a bigger deal than you think, Lloyd...'cuz ANY water in a bilge
that's left to sit turns into a dark stagnant pond...and dark stagnant
ponds STINK.

Ah, so you're a proponent of the "dry bilge" philosophy. Tried that for
awhile on Far Cove after I'd installed the drip-free shaft seal, but it's
just not practical in my case. Yes, my bilge is always a stagnant pool of
stinky "water" (mainly condensate from the fridge, rainwater from the
leaky windows, condensate on the walls...and yes, fixing the leaking
windows and making a proper, non-leaking mast collar are On My List Of
Things To Do.)

Lloyd

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

I guess you lost the farm by the way you practice maintenance. Just slap a
2x4 on and some bailing wire. The way you maintain your boat. Says a lot
about your neglect for maintenance, and your lifestyle. I often wondered
why certain people are constantly calling the Coast Guard for emergency
assistance. Now I know. I only hope you have a Life Raft, PFD's, EPIRB and
they're band new. I have a strong feeling your going to need them!

All year long we are doing preventive maintenance. Making the boating
experience much more enjoyable. We don't have to jury rig some BS
contraption and worry if it's going to kill us.

Jack

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:07:34 +0000, Peggie Hall wrote:

As I said, this is just the head sink - very little use and pretty much
all water. No big deal.

It's a bigger deal than you think, Lloyd...'cuz ANY water in a bilge
that's left to sit turns into a dark stagnant pond...and dark stagnant
ponds STINK.

Ah, so you're a proponent of the "dry bilge" philosophy. Tried that for
awhile on Far Cove after I'd installed the drip-free shaft seal, but it's
just not practical in my case. Yes, my bilge is always a stagnant pool of
stinky "water" (mainly condensate from the fridge, rainwater from the
leaky windows, condensate on the walls...and yes, fixing the leaking
windows and making a proper, non-leaking mast collar are On My List Of
Things To Do.)

Lloyd

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 10:50:02 +0000, Jack Rye wrote:

I guess you lost the farm by the way you practice maintenance. Just slap a
2x4 on and some bailing wire. The way you maintain your boat. Says a lot
about your neglect for maintenance, and your lifestyle. I often wondered
why certain people are constantly calling the Coast Guard for emergency
assistance. Now I know. I only hope you have a Life Raft, PFD's, EPIRB and
they're band new. I have a strong feeling your going to need them!


Well, I've been sailing the Chuck for 30 years, and have had to get towed
in exactly ONCE. And I've never called the CG.

Lloyd

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

On Sun, 24 Aug 2003 21:13:50 +0000, bomar wrote:

Peggie-
Check your math....
Assuming true 1" and ¾" id, this is a reduction of 44% not 25%

3.14 (.5)² = .785
3.14 (.375)² = .4415
.4415 / .785 = .5625
¾" hose is 56% of 1" hose, so the ¾" hose is 44% smaller, not 25%


Not trying to justify my decision, but...a "1 inch" hose barb is actually
about 3/4" ID, which is very close to what my 3/4" ID thruhull is. So I
would have a 3/4" restriction in my system no matter what. The smallest ID
of my temporary system is 3/4", and it still will be when I convert back
to a 1.5" thruhull.

Lloyd

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

WaIIy wrote:
Would you recommend the 1" for the macerator toilet if it goes 8 feet to
a holding tank or the 1 1/2" ?

With the exception of older Jabsco toilets, which have 1" discharge, all
marine toilets have 1.5" discharge fittings. All standard tank inlet and
discharge fittings are also 1.5". The only equipment I know of that has
a 1" discharge fitting are Jabsco and Johnson Pump discharge macerator
pumps.

So the answer to your question is, go with 1.5".

And btw, 8' is stretching the distance any tank should be from the
toilet. 6' or less is optimal (and btw, that's total feet of hose, not
"as the crow flies"). Reason: 6'is as far as bowl contents will move in
the maximum amount of time 99.999% of people will spend flushing the
toilet--either pumping a manual or leaving their finger on the button.
So if the tank is much further than 6' from the toilet, waste gets left
sitting the head discharge hose to permeate it and even clog it.

And speaking of how far bowl contents will move...any manual marine
toilet that's working anywhere near specs can move bowl contents at
least 6' in the dry mode...so it's not necessary to fill your holding
tank with flush water to rinse out the head discharge hose. All you need
is a quart or two behind the bowl contents.

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Hose off, now Thruhull problem!
 

On Tue, 26 Aug 2003 22:55:54 +0000, Peggie Hall wrote:

Lloyd Sumpter wrote:
Not trying to justify my decision, but...a "1 inch" hose barb is actually
about 3/4" ID,

The flaw in your logic, darlin', is that fitting measurements are ALWAYS
OD, because it's the OD that has to fit into the ID of hoses. So when
specs call for 3/4", that means a 3/4" hose is what should be used...and
when they call for 1", a 1" hose should be used. The difference between
the ID and OD of the fitting is already taken into account. When you use
a smaller diameter hose, you are reducing the volume it can carry by the
percentage bomar's math indicates.


And the flaw in YOUR logic, darlin', is that I'm not using logic, I'm
measuring. The smallest ID that my sewage has to go through is 3/4"
(measured). This would also be true if I used a 1" thruhull, although the
LENGTH of the 3/4" restriction would be 2" rather than 7", which is what
is is now.

Most pressure drop in a restriction such as this occurs AT the reduction.
True, there's more pressure drop per ft in a smaller hose/pipe (fluid
travelling faster), but not significant compared to the dP at the
restriction itself (which is why we measure flow by measuring dP across a
restrictor-plate).

Now, I DO agree with you that 1" hose should be used on a 1" fitting,
3/4" hose on a 3/4" fitting, etc. - I HATE adapters! This is one reason I
want to go 1" rather than 1.5" - eliminates the adapter (I'll still need
an adapter to put my 1" hose on my 1.5" thruhull...)

Lloyd