On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:50:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:33:57 GMT, "James" wrote:

Have you looked at the owner's manual? Sometimes a tone code is generated
to indicate the trouble area.
Jim

Yes, I've been through the owners manual *very* carefully, and no,
there are no tone codes.

It would be nice if they'd give you some indication but that doesn't
seem to be the case. Apparently factory service technicians can tap
into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and get more data.

My ETECS have a system which indicates a "code" - this light blinks so
many times it means this, etc.

Sadly, you still have to get to the ECM to find out which sensor or
thingymajigger is FUBAR.

I wonder if those ecm readers that NAPA and Auto Zone sells might tell
you what's what.

I don't think so. The similarity between a 2002 merc i/o and your outboards
ends somewhere around the fact that they both use gas.

My first guess would be that he has the same alarm setup merc used for
years. A collection of sensors is tied to an alarm. Nothing to do with the
fuel control computer. If that is the case then he needs to determine is an
alarm sensor is malfunctioning or if one of his gauges is not working.
Probably safe to say he has oil pressure or he would have had some other
nasty symptoms by now. Overheating is the other possibility.

The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a
continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp until
it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in and if
that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:50:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:33:57 GMT, "James" wrote:

Have you looked at the owner's manual? Sometimes a tone code is
generated
to indicate the trouble area.
Jim

Yes, I've been through the owners manual *very* carefully, and no,
there are no tone codes.

It would be nice if they'd give you some indication but that doesn't
seem to be the case. Apparently factory service technicians can tap
into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and get more data.

My ETECS have a system which indicates a "code" - this light blinks so
many times it means this, etc.

Sadly, you still have to get to the ECM to find out which sensor or
thingymajigger is FUBAR.

I wonder if those ecm readers that NAPA and Auto Zone sells might tell
you what's what.

Seems that James is clueless also.

"James" wrote in message
link.net...
I don't think so. The similarity between a 2002 merc i/o and your
outboards ends somewhere around the fact that they both use gas.

My first guess would be that he has the same alarm setup merc used for
years. A collection of sensors is tied to an alarm. Nothing to do with
the fuel control computer. If that is the case then he needs to determine
is an alarm sensor is malfunctioning or if one of his gauges is not
working. Probably safe to say he has oil pressure or he would have had
some other nasty symptoms by now. Overheating is the other possibility.

The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a
continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp
until it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in
and if that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:50:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:33:57 GMT, "James" wrote:

Have you looked at the owner's manual? Sometimes a tone code is
generated
to indicate the trouble area.
Jim

Yes, I've been through the owners manual *very* carefully, and no,
there are no tone codes.

It would be nice if they'd give you some indication but that doesn't
seem to be the case. Apparently factory service technicians can tap
into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and get more data.

My ETECS have a system which indicates a "code" - this light blinks so
many times it means this, etc.

Sadly, you still have to get to the ECM to find out which sensor or
thingymajigger is FUBAR.

I wonder if those ecm readers that NAPA and Auto Zone sells might tell
you what's what.

I'm pretty surprised that in 2002 merc is feeding the other sending units to
the computer. For quite a while they simply controlled fuel with it. Does
sound like that might have changed. The similarity between a couple
outboards and a chevy big block i/o is still almost non-existent.

By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a valve
adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block is a 40
over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and intake. Roller
cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with Corsa cutouts.
Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power steering pump.

http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg


"Jim" wrote in message
nk.net...
Seems that James is clueless also.

"James" wrote in message
link.net...
I don't think so. The similarity between a 2002 merc i/o and your
outboards ends somewhere around the fact that they both use gas.

My first guess would be that he has the same alarm setup merc used for
years. A collection of sensors is tied to an alarm. Nothing to do with
the fuel control computer. If that is the case then he needs to
determine is an alarm sensor is malfunctioning or if one of his gauges is
not working. Probably safe to say he has oil pressure or he would have
had some other nasty symptoms by now. Overheating is the other
possibility.

The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with
a continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp
until it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in
and if that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:50:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:33:57 GMT, "James" wrote:

Have you looked at the owner's manual? Sometimes a tone code is
generated
to indicate the trouble area.
Jim

Yes, I've been through the owners manual *very* carefully, and no,
there are no tone codes.

It would be nice if they'd give you some indication but that doesn't
seem to be the case. Apparently factory service technicians can tap
into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and get more data.

My ETECS have a system which indicates a "code" - this light blinks so
many times it means this, etc.

Sadly, you still have to get to the ECM to find out which sensor or
thingymajigger is FUBAR.

I wonder if those ecm readers that NAPA and Auto Zone sells might tell
you what's what.

Very nice work James. Kudos to you. I just had a couple of thoughts though.
My recollector is getting pretty rusty, but something tells me that once the
fuel line reaches the engine, it should convert to double flared steel. I
also am wondering if it is OK to use a non metallic fuel filter inside an
enclosed engine space. I like to see rubber fuel lines double clamped, but
maybe that's just because I'm a belt/suspenders kind of person.
Jim
"James" wrote in message
k.net...
I'm pretty surprised that in 2002 merc is feeding the other sending units
to the computer. For quite a while they simply controlled fuel with it.
Does sound like that might have changed. The similarity between a couple
outboards and a chevy big block i/o is still almost non-existent.

By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a
valve adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block is
a 40 over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and intake.
Roller cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with Corsa
cutouts. Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power steering
pump.

http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg


"Jim" wrote in message
nk.net...
Seems that James is clueless also.

"James" wrote in message
link.net...
I don't think so. The similarity between a 2002 merc i/o and your
outboards ends somewhere around the fact that they both use gas.

My first guess would be that he has the same alarm setup merc used for
years. A collection of sensors is tied to an alarm. Nothing to do with
the fuel control computer. If that is the case then he needs to
determine is an alarm sensor is malfunctioning or if one of his gauges
is not working. Probably safe to say he has oil pressure or he would
have had some other nasty symptoms by now. Overheating is the other
possibility.

The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with
a continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp
until it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in
and if that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:50:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:33:57 GMT, "James" wrote:

Have you looked at the owner's manual? Sometimes a tone code is
generated
to indicate the trouble area.
Jim

Yes, I've been through the owners manual *very* carefully, and no,
there are no tone codes.

It would be nice if they'd give you some indication but that doesn't
seem to be the case. Apparently factory service technicians can tap
into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and get more data.

My ETECS have a system which indicates a "code" - this light blinks so
many times it means this, etc.

Sadly, you still have to get to the ECM to find out which sensor or
thingymajigger is FUBAR.

I wonder if those ecm readers that NAPA and Auto Zone sells might tell
you what's what.

"Jim" wrote in message
link.net...

Very nice work James. Kudos to you. I just had a couple of thoughts
though. My recollector is getting pretty rusty, but something tells me
that once the fuel line reaches the engine, it should convert to double
flared steel. I also am wondering if it is OK to use a non metallic fuel
filter inside an enclosed engine space. I like to see rubber fuel lines
double clamped, but maybe that's just because I'm a belt/suspenders kind
of person.
Jim


"James" wrote in message
k.net...

By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a
valve adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block
is a 40 over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and
intake. Roller cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with
Corsa cutouts. Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power
steering pump.

http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg



I am also curious about something. What's that yellow colored (appears to
be plastic) tubing that runs from the carb, down below the fuel filter and
down someplace for? Is that the float overflow?

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
. ..

"Jim" wrote in message
link.net...

Very nice work James. Kudos to you. I just had a couple of thoughts
though. My recollector is getting pretty rusty, but something tells me
that once the fuel line reaches the engine, it should convert to double
flared steel. I also am wondering if it is OK to use a non metallic fuel
filter inside an enclosed engine space. I like to see rubber fuel lines
double clamped, but maybe that's just because I'm a belt/suspenders kind
of person.
Jim


"James" wrote in message
k.net...

By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a
valve adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block
is a 40 over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and
intake. Roller cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with
Corsa cutouts. Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power
steering pump.

http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg



I am also curious about something. What's that yellow colored (appears to
be plastic) tubing that runs from the carb, down below the fuel filter and
down someplace for? Is that the float overflow?

Eisboch

I'm guessing that it is there to contain the fuel if one of the fuel pump
diaphragms rupture.
Jim

You're right, that is a vent tube from the back side of the fuel pump
to a vacuum port on the carb. If the fuel pump broke the gas would go
up that tube to the carb instead of leaking into the bilge. If you
look close you can see the fuel pump below the spin on fuel filter.
That's actually the original merc setup even though the fuel pump and
carb are both holley now.

You're also right about the fuel line, it is all rubber, I don't have
any metal line. But it is double walled marine line and I could not
find that any code that said it had to be metal somewhere, just that
it either had to be metal or it had to be double walled rubber. I
can't argue that metal would be safer. The non-metal filter is also
marine but I agree it doesn't seem like it should be. I had some
water in the fuel tank troubles some years back and I put that in to
keep an eye on it but I probably should take it out now. On the other
hand I'm always tinkering so I can keep a pretty good eye out for any
signs of impending trouble. And it's just a bowrider lake boat so
we're not really "serious" boaters ;-)

On Mar 13, 6:33 pm, "Eisboch" wrote:
"Jim" wrote in message

link.net...





Very nice work James. Kudos to you. I just had a couple of thoughts
though. My recollector is getting pretty rusty, but something tells me
that once the fuel line reaches the engine, it should convert to double
flared steel. I also am wondering if it is OK to use a non metallic fuel
filter inside an enclosed engine space. I like to see rubber fuel lines
double clamped, but maybe that's just because I'm a belt/suspenders kind
of person.
Jim
"James" wrote in message
nk.net...
By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a
valve adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block
is a 40 over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and
intake. Roller cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with
Corsa cutouts. Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power
steering pump.

http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg

I am also curious about something. What's that yellow colored (appears to
be plastic) tubing that runs from the carb, down below the fuel filter and
down someplace for? Is that the float overflow?

Eisboch- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 12:59:14 GMT, "James" wrote:

The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a
continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp until
it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in and if
that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

It's not the temperature sensor. We did a test the other day where we
unplugged it. The alarm system gives two short beeps to alert you and
then stops. Running with the temp sensor disconnected we stil got the
other alarm after several minutes of running at 3400 RPM. When I heat
gun the thermostat housing where both the temp guage sender and alarm
sensor are located, the temperature is within a few degrees of the
thermostat (160 degrees).

The owners manual says that alarm trips are recorded by the ECM.

On Mar 12, 11:05 am, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 12 Mar 2007 12:59:14 GMT, "James" wrote:
The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a
continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp until
it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in and if
that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway.

It's not the temperature sensor. We did a test the other day where we
unplugged it. The alarm system gives two short beeps to alert you and
then stops. Running with the temp sensor disconnected we stil got the
other alarm after several minutes of running at 3400 RPM. When I heat
gun the thermostat housing where both the temp guage sender and alarm
sensor are located, the temperature is within a few degrees of the
thermostat (160 degrees).

The owners manual says that alarm trips are recorded by the ECM.

Starting to sound like a trip to the dealer :-(