It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel....

Eisboch wrote:
I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive
(the one with loop on the top bearing cover).
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
- the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric fuel
pump).

How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't ....
consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the
engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this is
accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch.

Eisboch

"Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddc5da40cf71@uwe...

It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no
fuel....

Eisboch wrote:

How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't
....
consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the
engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this
is
accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch.


I suspected that might have been the case when you mentioned that you were
new to boats.
I've been advised by someone far more knowledgeable than I that it should
only be powered
if the engine is running .... via oil switch or other sensor ... and not
powered from the
ignition switch only. Unlike a car or truck, on a boat you don't want the
potential of the fuel
pump pouring fuel on a fire.

If carbureted, you also want the bowl overflow to be plumbed back to the
fuel supply line before the pump and not simply dumped into the bilge like
an automotive carb would do.

Just stuff to think about.

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
. ..

"Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddc5da40cf71@uwe...

It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no
fuel....

Eisboch wrote:

How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't
....
consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if
the
engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this
is
accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch.


I suspected that might have been the case when you mentioned that you were
new to boats.
I've been advised by someone far more knowledgeable than I that it should
only be powered
if the engine is running .... via oil switch or other sensor ... and not
powered from the
ignition switch only. Unlike a car or truck, on a boat you don't want
the potential of the fuel
pump pouring fuel on a fire.

If carbureted, you also want the bowl overflow to be plumbed back to the
fuel supply line before the pump and not simply dumped into the bilge like
an automotive carb would do.

Just stuff to think about.

Eisboch


The bowl overflow should be handled by the vent tubes. They are J tubes and
dump the extra fuel into the carb throat. If a ford, the engine will still
use all the fuel and keep running as Fords love gas.

Bennie wrote:

It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel....


You'd better get that fixed pretty quick. It wouldn't pass a CG
inspection as it is. Your insurance won't pay for the ensuing fire
damage either(I've denied claims for fires from faulty owner repairs or
mods - many boat policies specifically exclude coverage).

Rob


Eisboch wrote:

I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive
(the one with loop on the top bearing cover).

[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]

- the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric fuel
pump).

How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't ....
consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the
engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this is
accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch.

Eisboch

When ign switch is off - no fuel....

No good! There should only be fuel when the engine is cranking (to start),
or there is oil pressure (engine running). The latter could save your engine
as well. If the oil pressure drops for any reason, the fuel pump will cut
out, and the engine will stop before you melt the block. If the ign switch
is simply on, and the engine isn't running, the fuel pump should NOT be
moving fuel.

--Mike

"Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddc5da40cf71@uwe...
It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no
fuel....

Eisboch wrote:
I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern
Drive
(the one with loop on the top bearing cover).
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
- the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric
fuel
pump).

How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't
....
consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the
engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this
is
accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch.

Eisboch

Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running while
OUT the water I can leave it alone but I will definitely work out away to
either relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only
feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Again brilliant advice from you all.
Thanks.

Anyone have more thoughts about the raw water pump and the possible need to
cool the stern leg?
I don' know if I need that...... I am a going mechanical and electronics guy -
planes .....yes. Boats....not yet!!

I did see that that alternator was not a Marine version but I have worked out
a way to "seal" it so no sparks get out. The starter looks like a marine
version though.
Thanks again on the pump issue - almost certainley save me a bit of grief!

Mike wrote:
When ign switch is off - no fuel....

No good! There should only be fuel when the engine is cranking (to start),
or there is oil pressure (engine running). The latter could save your engine
as well. If the oil pressure drops for any reason, the fuel pump will cut
out, and the engine will stop before you melt the block. If the ign switch
is simply on, and the engine isn't running, the fuel pump should NOT be
moving fuel.

--Mike

It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no
fuel....
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]

Eisboch

--
Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com

I should have explained this thing is a long term project. It was all siezed
up due to the engine not being covered. The guy who tried to fix it was a
mechanical moron with even less electronics/electrical experience. The
wiring loom engine and to the panel was totally fried and I have had to
rewire 80% of this thing. It it not wrotten anywhere and the interior was
all in good shape so that is why I have been spending time on it. The motor
now runs like a sewing machine with good compression. What I did have to do
was swop the carb with a van carb since it was corroded completely. My
intention was to make a good one out the the original body and the levers etc
from the van carb - but it seems to and run well with the van carb....
I have had to rebuild the remote motor control - it was siezed up too. The
plate on the back that covers the gearing in the control and holds the two
cables was broken. I am looking for a new one - any ideas? As a temporary
measure I have plastered the back with JB weld and aluminium mesh and the put
an extra mount for the cable extension onto the support panel.
Am I making stupid assumptions?
Additionally, I have made an engine alignment to so the crank/adaptor/stern
shaft are all aligned well - within about 2mm in straight line and in height -
am I correct with that?
Thanks to you all for your "expert" advice.

Bennie wrote:
Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running while
OUT the water I can leave it alone but I will definitely work out away to
either relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only
feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Again brilliant advice from you all.
Thanks.

Anyone have more thoughts about the raw water pump and the possible need to
cool the stern leg?
I don' know if I need that...... I am a going mechanical and electronics guy -
planes .....yes. Boats....not yet!!

I did see that that alternator was not a Marine version but I have worked out
a way to "seal" it so no sparks get out. The starter looks like a marine
version though.
Thanks again on the pump issue - almost certainley save me a bit of grief!

When ign switch is off - no fuel....

[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]

Eisboch

--
Message posted via BoatKB.com
http://www.boatkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/boats/200702/1

Bennie via BoatKB.com wrote:
As a temporary
measure I have plastered the back with JB weld and aluminium mesh and the put
an extra mount for the cable extension onto the support panel.

That's a good fix and it will probably last you for a while.

I used JB weld to form a mount for a down draft carb on my International
Super MTA and after ten years, it's still working. :)

You should look at the float bowl vent tube on the old carb. Often on boats
they are shaped like an upsidedown J rather than a straight tube. This
causes the fuel to go down the throat of the carb if the float gets stuck.
Instead of spilling around the intake. If you can swap the vent tube that
would be good. Occasionally marine carbs have o-rings on the throttle shaft
as well to further limit fuel leaking but that is not so common. My holley
is a marine carb but the only difference is the J tubes, it does not have
o-rings on the shafts. Also any rubber fuel lines you use should be from
your local boat store. All rubber fuel lines for boats are double walled.
The thing with gas and boats is that if it leaks anywhere the gas vapors
will collect in the bottom of the hull. Then a spark and kaboom. I'm not
surpirsed about your alternator, I can not see anything about mine that
makes it marine and I know for a fact it is the original merc alternatior.

You'll probably want to get another shifter plate. That whole shift
mechanism is a real rube goildburg on mercs. It uses the tension on the
cable housing to activate the stall switches. This momentarily stalls the
ignition so it will come out of gear. Yiou can tell when it's not working
right as the boat will be almost impossible to get out of gear. Usually you
pull so hard that when it finally comes out it goes into the opposite gear.
You have to be in the water to check as on land it will shift fine without
the interupt working. The gears are designed so that the pressure against
the prop causes them to want to stay engaged. Also important that the shift
cable housing be free to move, not wiretied or otherwise fastened at the
engine end except where it is mounted to that plate. It can be real finicky
to get working and having the plate broken will just make it harder. You
could fabricate one if you're really into that sort of thing. If you search
online you will find that there are a number of boat salvage places that
sell used parts.

"Bennie via BoatKB.com" u31788@uwe wrote in message
news:6ddfad6d9bcb4@uwe...
I should have explained this thing is a long term project. It was all
siezed
up due to the engine not being covered. The guy who tried to fix it was a
mechanical moron with even less electronics/electrical experience. The
wiring loom engine and to the panel was totally fried and I have had to
rewire 80% of this thing. It it not wrotten anywhere and the interior was
all in good shape so that is why I have been spending time on it. The
motor
now runs like a sewing machine with good compression. What I did have to
do
was swop the carb with a van carb since it was corroded completely. My
intention was to make a good one out the the original body and the levers
etc
from the van carb - but it seems to and run well with the van carb....
I have had to rebuild the remote motor control - it was siezed up too.
The
plate on the back that covers the gearing in the control and holds the two
cables was broken. I am looking for a new one - any ideas? As a
temporary
measure I have plastered the back with JB weld and aluminium mesh and the
put
an extra mount for the cable extension onto the support panel.
Am I making stupid assumptions?
Additionally, I have made an engine alignment to so the
crank/adaptor/stern
shaft are all aligned well - within about 2mm in straight line and in
height -
am I correct with that?
Thanks to you all for your "expert" advice.

Bennie wrote:
Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running
while
OUT the water I can leave it alone but I will definitely work out away to
either relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it
only
feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Again brilliant advice from you all.
Thanks.

Anyone have more thoughts about the raw water pump and the possible need
to
cool the stern leg?
I don' know if I need that...... I am a going mechanical and electronics
guy -
planes .....yes. Boats....not yet!!

I did see that that alternator was not a Marine version but I have worked
out
a way to "seal" it so no sparks get out. The starter looks like a marine
version though.
Thanks again on the pump issue - almost certainley save me a bit of grief!

When ign switch is off - no fuel....

[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]

Eisboch

--
Message posted via BoatKB.com
http://www.boatkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/boats/200702/1

James wrote:
I'm not
surpirsed about your alternator, I can not see anything about mine that
makes it marine and I know for a fact it is the original merc alternatior.


Depending on the set up. If the alternator is a Motorola (maybe
labeled as "Prestolite" or "Leece Neville") ,Those little units are
marine aproved because the brush assembly is totally enclosed and
there is no way for sparks to "kaboom" any gas fumes.

If it's a typical Delco car job, What the difference is, that the
alternators are "hollow" and fumes enter the unit and with brushes
exposed to air, you can get a spark. What is done to cure this is, to
install a (Spark arrestor) screen kit, which has some fine mesh
screening that bolts to the inside of the front housing (disassembly
required) then a screened back cover. I suppose it works.

Anyhow the screen kit isn't expensive. It's been a while since I
bought one but it's less than $20.00. No rocket science to install,
but takes 15-20 min. if you've never done one before. Only thing to
remember, is to pin the brushs for assembly,put the housings
together, but make sure you pull the pin before installing the back
cap.

The only reason I'm mentioning this, is if your alternator is a Delco,
you should have a screen kit installed. In my area, I've never known
of a boat blowing up because the Delco alt didn't have the screen kit
installed, but if by chance there was an engine fire, and the ins. co.
investigated, and the kit wasn't installed, the ins. co would probably
have second thoughts for honoring a claim.