Okay...I understand raising it to not hit the the prop or lower unit
while towing, but the manual says to

"have it in normal running condition unless it will not clear the road.
If it will not clear the road, raise it and use a transom saver"

Do I need a transom saver for this boat/motor combo when raising the
motor?

On Nov 1, 8:27 pm, " JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote:
wrote in oglegroups.com...



I think you were making a joke....but I want to be clear....when the
boat is up on the trailer, getting read to by towed, should the motor
and lower unit be roughly 90 degrees to the pavement?

Thanks.Dave.

On Nov 1, 8:17 pm, " JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote:
wrote in
oglegroups.com...

Hello,

I am a buying a 20' Carolina Skiff DLX with a Yamaha F90 stroke
outboard. When I trailer the boat, what precautions do I need to take
with the motor? I believe all I need to do is have the motor lowered
to normal running angle while on the trailer. Is there anything else I
need to be aware of? Do I need a support bar?

Thanks.
D.Actually you need to *raise* the motor to a trailering position when
trailering it, not lowering it to a normal running angle.
:-)No joke. You raise the drive to avoid damaging it and the prop when
trailering.

When long term storing it on a trailer you should lower the drive.

you shouldn't, because when the engine if fully raised or "trailer"
position, the mass of the engine is in front of the transom, and you
have less weight hanging ont he back of the transom.

I have seen some people use a special bar that attaches to the base of
the back of the trailer, and has a "v" which they use to support the
lower end. to secure it. so that the engine isn't wanting to flop (even
minutely) on its mounts.

Tell us, is the engine hydrolic trim. where you can tilt the engine via
a switch? or do you ahve to pull a pin and tilt the engine manually?


wrote:
Okay...I understand raising it to not hit the the prop or lower unit
while towing, but the manual says to

"have it in normal running condition unless it will not clear the road.
If it will not clear the road, raise it and use a transom saver"

Do I need a transom saver for this boat/motor combo when raising the
motor?

On Nov 1, 8:27 pm, " JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote:
wrote in oglegroups.com...



I think you were making a joke....but I want to be clear....when the
boat is up on the trailer, getting read to by towed, should the motor
and lower unit be roughly 90 degrees to the pavement?

Thanks.Dave.

On Nov 1, 8:17 pm, " JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote:
wrote in
oglegroups.com...

Hello,

I am a buying a 20' Carolina Skiff DLX with a Yamaha F90 stroke
outboard. When I trailer the boat, what precautions do I need to take
with the motor? I believe all I need to do is have the motor lowered
to normal running angle while on the trailer. Is there anything else I
need to be aware of? Do I need a support bar?

Thanks.
D.Actually you need to *raise* the motor to a trailering position when
trailering it, not lowering it to a normal running angle.
:-)No joke. You raise the drive to avoid damaging it and the prop when
trailering.

When long term storing it on a trailer you should lower the drive.

wrote:
Okay...I understand raising it to not hit the the prop or lower unit
while towing, but the manual says to

"have it in normal running condition unless it will not clear the road.
If it will not clear the road, raise it and use a transom saver"

Do I need a transom saver for this boat/motor combo when raising the
motor?


It's a good idea to use a transom saver. I always do. I sometimes get
on some rough roads, and I'm not going to take any chances.

On 1 Nov 2006 17:34:16 -0800, wrote:

Okay...I understand raising it to not hit the the prop or lower unit
while towing, but the manual says to

"have it in normal running condition unless it will not clear the road.
If it will not clear the road, raise it and use a transom saver"

Do I need a transom saver for this boat/motor combo when raising the
motor?

Why would you not simply do what the manual says to do? Keep in mind that
'clear the road' also applies to those times the trailer is lower because
of a bump or depression in the road.

Thanks for all the help. I posed the question because I have never
seen any of the watermen around Gloucester, Va use a transom saver with
a skiff and outboard of this size. Plus this is my first boat so I am
super eager to learn :-)


My buddy that I am

On Nov 2, 1:19 pm, JohnH wrote:
On 1 Nov 2006 17:34:16 -0800, wrote:

Okay...I understand raising it to not hit the the prop or lower unit
while towing, but the manual says to

"have it in normal running condition unless it will not clear the road.
If it will not clear the road, raise it and use a transom saver"

Do I need a transom saver for this boat/motor combo when raising the
motor?Why would you not simply do what the manual says to do? Keep in mind that
'clear the road' also applies to those times the trailer is lower because
of a bump or depression in the road.

wrote:
Thanks for all the help. I posed the question because I have never
seen any of the watermen around Gloucester, Va use a transom saver with
a skiff and outboard of this size. Plus this is my first boat so I am
super eager to learn :-)


Why NOT use a transom saver? They're only about $25, take about 30
seconds to take off and put on. I use mine all the time. The first time
you go down a rough road, you'll wish you had that added security.

basskisser wrote:
wrote:

Thanks for all the help. I posed the question because I have never
seen any of the watermen around Gloucester, Va use a transom saver with
a skiff and outboard of this size. Plus this is my first boat so I am
super eager to learn :-)



Why NOT use a transom saver? They're only about $25, take about 30
seconds to take off and put on. I use mine all the time. The first time
you go down a rough road, you'll wish you had that added security.


Seems like the transom would be placed under a LOT more load in use in
the water than it possibly could being towed. Think of how much force a
100+ horsepower motor will place on the transom at WOT, and add to that
the violent jarring over waves, wouldn't surprise me if the forces are
many times the peak you'd see on a trailer over a bumpy road.

James Sweet wrote:
basskisser wrote:
wrote:

Thanks for all the help. I posed the question because I have never
seen any of the watermen around Gloucester, Va use a transom saver with
a skiff and outboard of this size. Plus this is my first boat so I am
super eager to learn :-)



Why NOT use a transom saver? They're only about $25, take about 30
seconds to take off and put on. I use mine all the time. The first time
you go down a rough road, you'll wish you had that added security.


Seems like the transom would be placed under a LOT more load in use in
the water than it possibly could being towed. Think of how much force a
100+ horsepower motor will place on the transom at WOT, and add to that
the violent jarring over waves, wouldn't surprise me if the forces are
many times the peak you'd see on a trailer over a bumpy road.

The back end of the boat doesn't bounce around (up and down) like it
does on the road. The load imposed by the outboard running wide open is
nothing like that. Under power in the water, the force vector is in the
same direction as the bottom of the boat, so the transom is well braced
by the whole bottom of the boat. However, when bumping along the road,
with the engine up, the load is transferred to the transom in a torque,
creating a moment in the transom with the motor being the moment lever.
Add to this that when underway, the load is more or less constant,
while being towed is dynamic. Long story short, don't use the transom
saver if you don't want to. For less than $30, and a few seconds of
time, I WILL.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:I1N2h.53$Ue.52@trndny03...
basskisser wrote:
wrote:

Thanks for all the help. I posed the question because I have never
seen any of the watermen around Gloucester, Va use a transom saver with
a skiff and outboard of this size. Plus this is my first boat so I am
super eager to learn :-)



Why NOT use a transom saver? They're only about $25, take about 30
seconds to take off and put on. I use mine all the time. The first time
you go down a rough road, you'll wish you had that added security.


Seems like the transom would be placed under a LOT more load in use in the
water than it possibly could being towed. Think of how much force a 100+
horsepower motor will place on the transom at WOT, and add to that the
violent jarring over waves, wouldn't surprise me if the forces are many
times the peak you'd see on a trailer over a bumpy road.

I broke an outboard bracket trailering, not boating. Lots more bouncing on
the road than on the water.