Hello,
I checked the previous posts and Battery faq but I still need a little
advice regarding my boat batteries. (I've been shocked countless times
and had two near hits with lightning so electricity and I have a
dysfunctional relationship probably aggrevated by my own stupidity.)

I own a 2000 Bayliner 2152 and it has two batteries. There is a switch
for 1, 2, All, and None.
I understand the concept about how the batteries are isolated.
So what do I set the switch at? What is the None setting for? Which
battery is 1 and which is 2?
I fear having a dead battery at sea on startup.With my luck, having
two dead batteries is just as easy as having one.

Thanks
Charles

Tikbalang wrote:
Hello,
I checked the previous posts and Battery faq but I still need a little
advice regarding my boat batteries. (I've been shocked countless times
and had two near hits with lightning so electricity and I have a
dysfunctional relationship probably aggrevated by my own stupidity.)

I own a 2000 Bayliner 2152 and it has two batteries. There is a switch
for 1, 2, All, and None.
I understand the concept about how the batteries are isolated.
So what do I set the switch at? What is the None setting for? Which
battery is 1 and which is 2?
I fear having a dead battery at sea on startup.With my luck, having
two dead batteries is just as easy as having one.

Thanks
Charles

The purpose of that switch is to disconnect your "starting" battery
from the "house" battery when you're using power while anchored and not
replenishing the batteries through the alternator. You want to be sure
you have one fully chargd battery for starting purposes even after the
cabin lights, fridge, etc have pretty well drained the other one.

One of your batteries should be wired to the starter. That will be your
start battery. If you don't know which battery that is, try starting
the engine with the switch set to "1" and then with the switch set to
"2". If your boat is properly wired, the engine will not crank on one
of those two settings and that setting will be your "house" battery.

"Both" can be used when you are underway with the engine running. That
setting will recharge both the house and the starting battery. If you
leave the switch at "1" or "2" while underway, only the starting
battery will be recharged. This setting can also be used if the
starting battery is a bit weak and could use a boost from whatever
might be left in the house battery- but if you routinely have to start
your boat this way it's time to check your connections or maybe even
look for new batteries.

"Off" should only be selected when the engine is not running. Switching
to "off" while the engine is running can damage your alternator. $$OUCH

None means that no batteries are connected to the system
1 = battery #1 is connected
2 = battery #2 is connected
both = both 1 & 2 are connected

As to which battery is #1 and #2 -- put the switch to #1 -- and disconnect one
of the batteries. If you still have power, that battery is #2, if you no longer
have power, that battery is #1

If you do not have a battery isolator, when the engine is running; put the
switch to both so both batteries get charged. If you do have an isolator, leave
it on one or two -- your choice. If the battery goes dead; switch over to the
other battery and start your engine -- go home.

On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 11:04:48 -0500, Tikbalang
wrote:

Hello,
I checked the previous posts and Battery faq but I still need a little
advice regarding my boat batteries. (I've been shocked countless times
and had two near hits with lightning so electricity and I have a
dysfunctional relationship probably aggrevated by my own stupidity.)

I own a 2000 Bayliner 2152 and it has two batteries. There is a switch
for 1, 2, All, and None.
I understand the concept about how the batteries are isolated.
So what do I set the switch at? What is the None setting for? Which
battery is 1 and which is 2?
I fear having a dead battery at sea on startup.With my luck, having
two dead batteries is just as easy as having one.

Thanks
Charles


--- AntiSpam/harvest ---
Remove X's to send email to me.

Tikbalang wrote:
Hello,
I checked the previous posts and Battery faq but I still need a little
advice regarding my boat batteries. (I've been shocked countless times
and had two near hits with lightning so electricity and I have a
dysfunctional relationship probably aggrevated by my own stupidity.)

I own a 2000 Bayliner 2152 and it has two batteries. There is a switch
for 1, 2, All, and None.
I understand the concept about how the batteries are isolated.
So what do I set the switch at? What is the None setting for? Which
battery is 1 and which is 2?
I fear having a dead battery at sea on startup.With my luck, having
two dead batteries is just as easy as having one.

Thanks
Charles

Forgot to suggest: Once you have figured out which setting is house and
which setting is for starting, use some labeling tape and relabel the
switch "house" and "start" rather than "1" and "2". The "Both" and
"Off" indications can, and should, remain unchanged.

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
ups.com...

Tikbalang wrote:
Hello,
I checked the previous posts and Battery faq but I still need a little
advice regarding my boat batteries. (I've been shocked countless times
and had two near hits with lightning so electricity and I have a
dysfunctional relationship probably aggrevated by my own stupidity.)

I own a 2000 Bayliner 2152 and it has two batteries. There is a switch
for 1, 2, All, and None.
I understand the concept about how the batteries are isolated.
So what do I set the switch at? What is the None setting for? Which
battery is 1 and which is 2?
I fear having a dead battery at sea on startup.With my luck, having
two dead batteries is just as easy as having one.

Thanks
Charles

Forgot to suggest: Once you have figured out which setting is house and
which setting is for starting, use some labeling tape and relabel the
switch "house" and "start" rather than "1" and "2". The "Both" and
"Off" indications can, and should, remain unchanged.


This is a small boat, not a trawler. Either battery will start the boat.
If the switch is on 1 then the battery connected to 1 on the switch will
start the boat and run all the electronics. Like wise on 2. Both will
connect the batteries in parallel. Both hooked up. Run the switch in #1
for a while and then next time run it in #2. If you run it in both, and you
have a battery failure, you may end up with no starting battery. One bad
battery adn one dead battery. None, just disconnects both batteries for
storage. I find it much better to add another switch and install a battery
combiner. Run the starting battery on 1 and all the electronics on 2. Then
when you are running both batteries will charge and when not running, only
the electronics battery will be drawn down.

I also have a small boat (19') and when I added a second battery I installed
a combiner. I don't have a house or start battery: which ever battery is
selected powers everything. The combiner takes care of charging both
batteries or whichever one is low. I alternate in selecting battery 1 or
battery 2 when I go out, so that each battery gets used for starting and
powering things.

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
k.net...

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
ups.com...

Tikbalang wrote:
Hello,
I checked the previous posts and Battery faq but I still need a little
advice regarding my boat batteries. (I've been shocked countless times
and had two near hits with lightning so electricity and I have a
dysfunctional relationship probably aggrevated by my own stupidity.)

I own a 2000 Bayliner 2152 and it has two batteries. There is a switch
for 1, 2, All, and None.
I understand the concept about how the batteries are isolated.
So what do I set the switch at? What is the None setting for? Which
battery is 1 and which is 2?
I fear having a dead battery at sea on startup.With my luck, having
two dead batteries is just as easy as having one.

Thanks
Charles

Forgot to suggest: Once you have figured out which setting is house and
which setting is for starting, use some labeling tape and relabel the
switch "house" and "start" rather than "1" and "2". The "Both" and
"Off" indications can, and should, remain unchanged.


This is a small boat, not a trawler. Either battery will start the boat.
If the switch is on 1 then the battery connected to 1 on the switch will
start the boat and run all the electronics. Like wise on 2. Both will
connect the batteries in parallel. Both hooked up. Run the switch in #1
for a while and then next time run it in #2. If you run it in both, and
you have a battery failure, you may end up with no starting battery. One
bad battery adn one dead battery. None, just disconnects both batteries
for storage. I find it much better to add another switch and install a
battery combiner. Run the starting battery on 1 and all the electronics
on 2. Then when you are running both batteries will charge and when not
running, only the electronics battery will be drawn down.

Calif Bill wrote:


This is a small boat, not a trawler. Either battery will start the boat.
If the switch is on 1 then the battery connected to 1 on the switch will
start the boat and run all the electronics. Like wise on 2. Both will
connect the batteries in parallel. Both hooked up. Run the switch in #1
for a while and then next time run it in #2. If you run it in both, and you
have a battery failure, you may end up with no starting battery. One bad
battery adn one dead battery. None, just disconnects both batteries for
storage. I find it much better to add another switch and install a battery
combiner. Run the starting battery on 1 and all the electronics on 2. Then
when you are running both batteries will charge and when not running, only
the electronics battery will be drawn down.

Fine, as long as both batteries are "deep cycle" rated. People who
install a light duty
"starting battery" and then discharge it subtantially for house use (as
would occur with the practice you describe) will be buying new
baterries a lot more often than needed.

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
oups.com...

Calif Bill wrote:


This is a small boat, not a trawler. Either battery will start the boat.
If the switch is on 1 then the battery connected to 1 on the switch will
start the boat and run all the electronics. Like wise on 2. Both will
connect the batteries in parallel. Both hooked up. Run the switch in #1
for a while and then next time run it in #2. If you run it in both, and
you
have a battery failure, you may end up with no starting battery. One bad
battery adn one dead battery. None, just disconnects both batteries for
storage. I find it much better to add another switch and install a
battery
combiner. Run the starting battery on 1 and all the electronics on 2.
Then
when you are running both batteries will charge and when not running,
only
the electronics battery will be drawn down.

Fine, as long as both batteries are "deep cycle" rated. People who
install a light duty
"starting battery" and then discharge it subtantially for house use (as
would occur with the practice you describe) will be buying new
baterries a lot more often than needed.


Lots of the small boats use the combo starting/ deep cycle battery for both
sid3s. But the main point, is they do not have a house battery setup and a
starting battery setup. The switch connects which ever battery selected to
the output of the switch and the output of the switch is wired to the motor.

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
.net...

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
oups.com...

Calif Bill wrote:


This is a small boat, not a trawler. Either battery will start the
boat.
If the switch is on 1 then the battery connected to 1 on the switch will
start the boat and run all the electronics. Like wise on 2. Both will
connect the batteries in parallel. Both hooked up. Run the switch in
#1
for a while and then next time run it in #2. If you run it in both, and
you
have a battery failure, you may end up with no starting battery. One
bad
battery adn one dead battery. None, just disconnects both batteries for
storage. I find it much better to add another switch and install a
battery
combiner. Run the starting battery on 1 and all the electronics on 2.
Then
when you are running both batteries will charge and when not running,
only
the electronics battery will be drawn down.

Fine, as long as both batteries are "deep cycle" rated. People who
install a light duty
"starting battery" and then discharge it subtantially for house use (as
would occur with the practice you describe) will be buying new
baterries a lot more often than needed.


Lots of the small boats use the combo starting/ deep cycle battery for
both sid3s. But the main point, is they do not have a house battery setup
and a starting battery setup. The switch connects which ever battery
selected to the output of the switch and the output of the switch is wired
to the motor.


Yep! I have 2 batteries on my 20 footer, both wired to run all 12v DC
accessories and provide power to the starter. I normally switch to the 2nd
battery (deep cycle) when we are swimming off the boat for the stereo and
marine radio (weather alert), then switch back to number 1 for starting and
running.

I had 3 batteries on our 32 footer........1 house and 2 starting.

A word of caution to Charles....unless you are sure your battery switch is
ignition protected NEVER switch between batteries when the engine is
running.

" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in
:

A word of caution to Charles....unless you are sure your battery
switch is ignition protected NEVER switch between batteries when the
engine is running.



That's not the problem. NEVER SWITCH THE SWITCH WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING
to protect the electronics, in the engine and out! The switch opens
between posts, allowing the alternator's HIGH VOLTAGE PULSES normally
absorbed by the battery charging to put over 20V pulses on your expensive
equipment!

BOTH is just like a set of jumper cables in a car. Unless the house
battery is really discharged too far, go from house battery to BOTH, not 1
so you can recharge both starting and house batteries on the way home....a
headstart for the AC charger to complete the long trickle.

By the way, unless the ride home is 10 hours long, you'll NEVER recharge
the house batteries in just 30 minutes to the boatramp. Batteries charge
slowly. Capacitors charge quickly.... Connect 2-6A automatic shutoff
charger to them when you get home or at your slip. NO Battery recharges at
30A for 30 minutes....just not possible.

Larry
--
Halloween candy left over.....
Is there a downside?