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#71
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![]() "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message ... wrote in message ups.com... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ups.com... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ps.com... Call around to hardware stores and ask if they sell spiral screw extractors. Before you jump in the car, measure the diameter of the bolt shafts you need to remove. And, if you know the socket size that fits the heads, write that down too. I tried that already. Either it didn't work or I went too easy on the hammer. Anyway, it could not grab the bolt and could not spin the bolt out. I attempted to drill one of the broken bolt away. But this simply messed up the thread in one of the hole. Hammer???????? Do you mean I am not supposed to use a hammer to work with the screw extractor? I am under the impression that I am supposed to drill a hole in the middle of the borken bolt, and hammer the screw extractor down into the hole, and then use some kind of handle bar to lock on the screw extractor and turn counter clockwise, and hopefully the screw will back out. This was exactly what the owner of the hardware store told me to do. May be we are talking about two different types of screw extractors? May be you are referring to the type that is like a drill bit, and we are supposed to use it with a power drill (running in reverse) to dill and back off the bolt? I could not use that type because the bolt was sunken inside a small hole that the special drill bit was too large to fit inside. Jay Chan This is the type I was talking about. No hammer is used. The flutes of the tool are deep enough that they grip without having to be forced into place. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html Yes, the one that is being shown in your link is exactly the type that I have. If I understand you correctly, I am not supposed to use a hammer on it; instead, I should have used it with a power drill and use the extractor like a drill bit and run it in reverse. In other words, the hardware store owner fooled me. Oh well... Thanks for the correction. Jay Chan NO! You DO NOT use a drill! You drill into the bolt to make a space for this tool. Then, you give the drill to your wife and instruct her not to let you have it again until you're ready to drill the next bolt. I don't care WHAT the hardware guy told you. If this is the tool you bought, he gave you the wrong instructions. And, if this tool came in its original package, AND you opened it carefully, you still have the instructions. Maybe your web browser options have been set to make simple instructions invisible. Here's what I saw at that link: How to use a Screw Extractor to remove a broken bolt or screw from a hole: First, drill a hole in the broken bolt. The correct drill size to use is shown below and is also stamped on each Screw Extractor. Insert Screw Extractor in the hole and, with a Tap Wrench, turn counterclockwise. The Screw Extractor acts like a corkscrew. It grips into the sides of the drilled hole and removes the broken part on its own threads without damaging the threaded hole. OK, now I know that I am not supposed to use it like a drill bit, and I am supposed to use the tap-wrench. In other words, the hardware store owner gave me the correct instruction. There must be something missing in the "execution". Jay Chan These tools come in various sizes. This is why I told you to measure the size of the hole you drilled into the bolt, write that down, and take the piece of paper to the store. On the back of the tool's package, there's a chart which tells you what size tool to use with different hole sizes. With the correct size, you put the tool in the hole and with no more force than you can apply with your fingertips, you'll feel it grab tight when you turn it counterclockwise. That's opposite from the direction traveled by the hands of a clock. If the tool doesn't grab right away, you can put a little pressure on it with your hand and turn it again. Then, you grab the square top with a wrench and turn counterclockwise. Myself and every other person I know takes a hammer and gives it a little love tap to set the teeth of the Easy Out. But when you break one, you will not call it an easy out. |
#72
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posted to rec.boats
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"Calif Bill" wrote in message
.net... "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message ... wrote in message ups.com... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ups.com... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ps.com... Call around to hardware stores and ask if they sell spiral screw extractors. Before you jump in the car, measure the diameter of the bolt shafts you need to remove. And, if you know the socket size that fits the heads, write that down too. I tried that already. Either it didn't work or I went too easy on the hammer. Anyway, it could not grab the bolt and could not spin the bolt out. I attempted to drill one of the broken bolt away. But this simply messed up the thread in one of the hole. Hammer???????? Do you mean I am not supposed to use a hammer to work with the screw extractor? I am under the impression that I am supposed to drill a hole in the middle of the borken bolt, and hammer the screw extractor down into the hole, and then use some kind of handle bar to lock on the screw extractor and turn counter clockwise, and hopefully the screw will back out. This was exactly what the owner of the hardware store told me to do. May be we are talking about two different types of screw extractors? May be you are referring to the type that is like a drill bit, and we are supposed to use it with a power drill (running in reverse) to dill and back off the bolt? I could not use that type because the bolt was sunken inside a small hole that the special drill bit was too large to fit inside. Jay Chan This is the type I was talking about. No hammer is used. The flutes of the tool are deep enough that they grip without having to be forced into place. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html Yes, the one that is being shown in your link is exactly the type that I have. If I understand you correctly, I am not supposed to use a hammer on it; instead, I should have used it with a power drill and use the extractor like a drill bit and run it in reverse. In other words, the hardware store owner fooled me. Oh well... Thanks for the correction. Jay Chan NO! You DO NOT use a drill! You drill into the bolt to make a space for this tool. Then, you give the drill to your wife and instruct her not to let you have it again until you're ready to drill the next bolt. I don't care WHAT the hardware guy told you. If this is the tool you bought, he gave you the wrong instructions. And, if this tool came in its original package, AND you opened it carefully, you still have the instructions. Maybe your web browser options have been set to make simple instructions invisible. Here's what I saw at that link: How to use a Screw Extractor to remove a broken bolt or screw from a hole: First, drill a hole in the broken bolt. The correct drill size to use is shown below and is also stamped on each Screw Extractor. Insert Screw Extractor in the hole and, with a Tap Wrench, turn counterclockwise. The Screw Extractor acts like a corkscrew. It grips into the sides of the drilled hole and removes the broken part on its own threads without damaging the threaded hole. OK, now I know that I am not supposed to use it like a drill bit, and I am supposed to use the tap-wrench. In other words, the hardware store owner gave me the correct instruction. There must be something missing in the "execution". Jay Chan These tools come in various sizes. This is why I told you to measure the size of the hole you drilled into the bolt, write that down, and take the piece of paper to the store. On the back of the tool's package, there's a chart which tells you what size tool to use with different hole sizes. With the correct size, you put the tool in the hole and with no more force than you can apply with your fingertips, you'll feel it grab tight when you turn it counterclockwise. That's opposite from the direction traveled by the hands of a clock. If the tool doesn't grab right away, you can put a little pressure on it with your hand and turn it again. Then, you grab the square top with a wrench and turn counterclockwise. Myself and every other person I know takes a hammer and gives it a little love tap to set the teeth of the Easy Out. But when you break one, you will not call it an easy out. That's nice, but Jay obviously has no feel for these things, so he's better off to see if it works first without the hammer. |
#73
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posted to rec.boats
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wrote
OK, now I know that I am not supposed to use it like a drill bit, and I am supposed to use the tap-wrench. In other words, the hardware store owner gave me the correct instruction. There must be something missing in the "execution". I wouldn't worry about it. Sounds like the one thing the hardware guy neglected to mention is that they don't always work. |
#74
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posted to rec.boats
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wrote
One possibility is that those "thread" in the old water pump base may not be "real" thread. They may be a corroded surface that mirrors the thread in the bolt. IOW, corrosion formed around the bolt threads creating something that looks like a threaded hole. That sounds plausible enough for me. Do we need to re-apply the heli-coil insert whenever we replace the bolt (like when we need to replace the impeller)? The coil will probably stay in there forever. I suppose it's possible for it to back out when you remove the bolt, but I've never seen it happen. |
#75
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() On Thu, 26 Oct 2006 19:59:59 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote: Clams Canino wrote: -W unloads flamethrower... backs slowly out of the room " JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message news:VM-dnfPTwP5Eo9zYnZ2dnUVZ_u- I was just trying to be diplomatic without mentioning a name. I know he can't be talking about me. My recommendation to find a good shade tree mechanic to help learn the basics is a great one and did not flame anyone. Marine engines are too expensive and too high tech. to do on the job training. Jimmy is screwing with his karma again. |
#76
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posted to rec.boats
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On Sat, 28 Oct 2006 22:01:49 GMT, Gene Kearns
wrote: (2) the number of them that I have had to drill out that others have broken off (no fun, but very profitable).... ========== As a point of interest, I'm curious how you do that. |
#77
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posted to rec.boats
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I like using counter rotating drill bits (sometimes called left hand bits).
These rotate in the opposite direction and sometimes will bite in and rotate the bolt remains out. I also use lots of PB Blaster. "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sat, 28 Oct 2006 22:01:49 GMT, Gene Kearns wrote: (2) the number of them that I have had to drill out that others have broken off (no fun, but very profitable).... ========== As a point of interest, I'm curious how you do that. |
#78
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posted to rec.boats
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On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:18:45 GMT, Gene Kearns
wrote: Solid carbide drill, slow speed, *extremely* rigid set-up (in a milling machine or the like), heavy coolant, and *lots* of patience..... I was speculating that it must take something like that. Always wanted to have a milling machine, maybe I could cost justify it if broke more bolts and easy outs. :-) |
#79
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:18:45 GMT, Gene Kearns wrote: Solid carbide drill, slow speed, *extremely* rigid set-up (in a milling machine or the like), heavy coolant, and *lots* of patience..... I was speculating that it must take something like that. Always wanted to have a milling machine, maybe I could cost justify it if broke more bolts and easy outs. :-) My son is getting rid of an old Bridgeport that I had bought years ago for the company. The ways are a bit worn, but for home projects I think it would be fine. I am thinking of putting it in the corner of my garage, but I have to figure out how to run a 3 phase motor on the 240 volt, single phase house power. I suppose I could change the motor... or get one of those converters that produces 3 phases power from single phase. I learned though ... the Bridgeport is only half the story. I also need to raid the tool bin for chucks, bits, end mills, etc. Eisboch |
#80
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posted to rec.boats
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Ernest Scribbler wrote:
wrote OK, now I know that I am not supposed to use it like a drill bit, and I am supposed to use the tap-wrench. In other words, the hardware store owner gave me the correct instruction. There must be something missing in the "execution". I wouldn't worry about it. Sounds like the one thing the hardware guy neglected to mention is that they don't always work. Actually, the hardware store owner told me that the tool doesn't always work, and I may end up drilling the bolts out. The hardware store is ACE Hardware, and I am getting a feeling that the sales people there may not know the stuffs but the store owner (or the store manager) is quite knowledgable. Jay Chan |
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