"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours.

" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...


If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.


Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and the
owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch

Eisboch wrote:
" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.


Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and the
owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch



I think every boat on our dock has their boat plug in to an electrical
outlet right along side their boat. Not only to run the battery
charger, but also to run lights, stove etc while they are at the dock.
Since I use very little electricity, I get billed a nominal fee for the
use of the outlet, $5/month.

The Corp of Engineers required a certified electrician to do the wiring
to the outlets to make sure it is properly grounded. All extension cord
must screw into the outlet and the boat so it won't get pulled out of
the socket, but I have never had a problem with electrolysis. I check
my zincs annually, and they are always in great shape.

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...


If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.


Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and
the owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch



Fair enough. I was repeating advice I was given by a friend of mine who is
an electrical engineer with NASA. David Pascoe also agrees.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/corrosion_in_marinas.htm

And electrolysis is a concern even in freshwater.

Remember, we are not talking about permanently mounted chargers but portable
battery chargers run off extension cords.

YMMV.

JimH wrote:
"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...


If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.


Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and
the owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch



Fair enough. I was repeating advice I was given by a friend of mine who is
an electrical engineer with NASA. David Pascoe also agrees.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/corrosion_in_marinas.htm

And electrolysis is a concern even in freshwater.

Remember, we are not talking about permanently mounted chargers but portable
battery chargers run off extension cords.

YMMV.

Eisboch didn't even come close to saying that electrolysis wouldn't
happen. He said it could be controlled so that it's minimal, and it
can. With it being correctly controlled, it's a hell of a lot better
than sinking the boat. Did you ask your electrical engineer whether
he'd rather control electrolysis or have his boat sink because the
battery ran down??

basskisser wrote:
JimH wrote:
"Eisboch" wrote in message
...
" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message
...

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a 110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your boat and those surrounding yours.

Might want to re-think that advise.

1. Bilge pumps can run batteries down during periods of heavy rains and
the owner doesn't get to
the boat often.
2. Electrolysis is not so much of a problem in freshwater.
3. If you are correct, I better go down to the marina and tell the 300
boats or so to shut off their
battery chargers that are left running all summer (and winter, in some
cases).
4. Properly set up and protected, the potential for electrolysis can be
controlled.

Eisboch


Fair enough. I was repeating advice I was given by a friend of mine who is
an electrical engineer with NASA. David Pascoe also agrees.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/corrosion_in_marinas.htm

And electrolysis is a concern even in freshwater.

Remember, we are not talking about permanently mounted chargers but portable
battery chargers run off extension cords.

YMMV.

Eisboch didn't even come close to saying that electrolysis wouldn't
happen. He said it could be controlled so that it's minimal, and it
can. With it being correctly controlled, it's a hell of a lot better
than sinking the boat. Did you ask your electrical engineer whether
he'd rather control electrolysis or have his boat sink because the
battery ran down??


If the original poster was thinking of using a non marine portable
charger, and running ordinary extension cords from an electrical outlet
not properly grounded, and exposed to the elements, that would not only
not be prudent and but it could be deadly. Electrolysis could be the
least of his problems.

If he has his electrical outlet properly installed for marine
environment, and is using a marine shore power extension cord, it really
should not be a problem. David Pascoe article was emphasizing what you
need to do to use electricity safely in a marina, and what can happen if
people do not have their electrical systems properly grounded. I don't
know why, but I have NEVER had a problem with my zincs or the outdrive
corroding or showing any signs of electrolysis. If I did, I would
contract the marina immediately so they could track down the boat
causing the problem.

JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?
How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?
How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?
How do you know the boat doesn't leak?
How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?
How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?
You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.

jiminfl wrote:
JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?
How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?
How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?
How do you know the boat doesn't leak?
How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?
How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?
You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.

Watch out, you're cruising for a bipolar rant from him!!

"jiminfl" wrote in message
oups.com...

JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm
to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?

What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include bilge pumps with float
switches? How about after 1980? How many were Bayliners?


How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?

Most bilge pumps include an internal float. Can you name any ever used by
Bayliner on their 2150 Cierra Classics that do not?


How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?

What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include a 3 way bilge switch at
the helm?
How about after 1980? Can you name *any* Bayliners ever built that do not?



How do you know the boat doesn't leak?

I don't and I never inferred otherwise.


How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?

I did not state it was a DIY project for this particular owner. I stated it
was an easy DIY project.


How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?

He said he would use a portable battery charger using an extension cord. Do
you think that is a safe way to charge a battery over a week on a boat?



You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.


Your attack on me was not justified by anything I posted in this thread and
was sophomoric (actually *Kevinesque*). You successfully turned an good
boating related thread into a personal attack.

I hope you have a relaxing evening Jim and have a better day tomorrow. ;-)

JimH wrote:
"jiminfl" wrote in message
oups.com...

JimH wrote:
"kyle" wrote in message
ups.com...
hi all,

i am a first-time (newbie) owner of a bayliner 2150 classic. she will
sit in a freshwater lake (not on a lift, but in the water). there is
one problem with the boat: the bilge pump, when connected to the
battery, will just run and run, even if there is no water around it
(thus eventually killing the battery). the previous owner said he just
had it disconnected for the most part and would just run it when
needed. my situation is different than his -- i may be away for a
weekend, with the boat sitting in the water.. i don't want to come back
to a sunken boat, nor to a dead battery..

so, assuming it is the floater switch, can i replace that? or maybe
something is just blocking it? i don't know what the floater switch
looks like, but i do know where the bilge pump is under the motor..
could someone describe what to look for?

also, let's assume floater switch is faulty, have to replace it/pump..
what is the norm when the boat is in the water 24/7.. do people run an
electric cord down to their boat with a slow current battery charger
and just keep it charged with the bilge pump in automatic mode..? i'm
worried about theft/environment(rain) in that case.... one person
suggested solar powering a second battery.. another said get two bilge
pumps.. one on automatic to a second battery, then one to the manual
switch to the main battery? i then run into the problem of needing to
constantly charge the second battery...


thanks!


Either the float switch is caught in the up position or the bilge pump
switch is in the manual position. Take the cover off the bilge pump and
check the float. If the float is down then check the switch at the helm
to
see if it is in the manual position.

If the bilge pump has to be replaced it is an easy do it yourself
project.

You should not need a charger if the bilge pump is the only thing left on
when leaving the boat. In any case do not run an extension cord to leave
a
110v charger running..........you are inviting electrolysis problems on
your
boat and those surrounding yours.

You must be psychic Jimmy Boy.
How do you know there is a float switch?

What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include bilge pumps with float
switches? How about after 1980? How many were Bayliners?


How do you know there is an internal float switch in the pump?

Most bilge pumps include an internal float. Can you name any ever used by
Bayliner on their 2150 Cierra Classics that do not?


How do you know there is a 3 way switch at the helm?

What 21 foot boats built after 1990 did not include a 3 way bilge switch at
the helm?
How about after 1980? Can you name *any* Bayliners ever built that do not?



How do you know the boat doesn't leak?

I don't and I never inferred otherwise.


How do you know the pump replacement is a DIY project for this
particular owner?

I did not state it was a DIY project for this particular owner. I stated it
was an easy DIY project.


How do you know he can't safely keep a trickle charger running on the
boat?

He said he would use a portable battery charger using an extension cord. Do
you think that is a safe way to charge a battery over a week on a boat?



You are either Psychic or a clueless twit Jimmy Boy.


Your attack on me was not justified by anything I posted in this thread and
was sophomoric (actually *Kevinesque*). You successfully turned an good
boating related thread into a personal attack.

I hope you have a relaxing evening Jim and have a better day tomorrow. ;-)

And here YOU go adding ANOTHER personal attack......
people in glass houses.....