Questions mostly for Chuck and the Washington crowd. Planning a trip up to
Vancouver Island in the Spring or Summer of 2007 and figure on taking the
boat to a few of the islands and staying in B&B's etc before going to
Vancouver Island and the West Shore for some fishing. I know there is a
book for the San Juans but what about the islands off Vancouver Island?
Cortes, etc.

Calif Bill wrote:
Questions mostly for Chuck and the Washington crowd. Planning a trip up to
Vancouver Island in the Spring or Summer of 2007 and figure on taking the
boat to a few of the islands and staying in B&B's etc before going to
Vancouver Island and the West Shore for some fishing. I know there is a
book for the San Juans but what about the islands off Vancouver Island?
Cortes, etc.

The Canadian islands in the common archipelago just off the SE coast of
Vancouver Island are called the Gulf Islands. The US Islands in the
same chain are the San Juans.

Some of the best recreational cruising waters in the world, but
"Shhhhh!", don't let the secret out.

The best fishing and the fewest crowds are probably found on the West
Side of Vancouver Island, but you will also encounter some of the
roughest water over there. (Lots of sport fishing activity out of the
Port of Ucluelet).

If you want a good general guidebook for both the San Juans and the
Gulf Islands, I'd recommend Wagonners Cruising Guide. Another
interesting book, particularly for trailer boaters, is "Day by Day to
Alaska" by Dale Peterson.

Plan on spending a *lot* of time in the area, and still leaving with
many of the major highlights unseen and unexplored. Bring your rain
gear regardless of when you're visiting, but plan on actually wearing
it a lot unless you're here from mid-July to mid-August. Especially on
the W Coast of Vancouver Island. (The Gulf Islands enjoy a bit of the
"rain shadow" effect from the mountain ranges on Vancouver Island, so
they experience maybe as many cloudy but a fewer actually rainy days
than the W coast of the island).

Warning: Cruising up here can be habit forming. A lot of people who
haven't been here just don't "get it", but after spending some time in
our soggy paradise they find they can't "forget" it. :-)

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
s.com...

Calif Bill wrote:
Questions mostly for Chuck and the Washington crowd. Planning a trip up
to
Vancouver Island in the Spring or Summer of 2007 and figure on taking the
boat to a few of the islands and staying in B&B's etc before going to
Vancouver Island and the West Shore for some fishing. I know there is a
book for the San Juans but what about the islands off Vancouver Island?
Cortes, etc.

The Canadian islands in the common archipelago just off the SE coast of
Vancouver Island are called the Gulf Islands. The US Islands in the
same chain are the San Juans.

Some of the best recreational cruising waters in the world, but
"Shhhhh!", don't let the secret out.

The best fishing and the fewest crowds are probably found on the West
Side of Vancouver Island, but you will also encounter some of the
roughest water over there. (Lots of sport fishing activity out of the
Port of Ucluelet).

If you want a good general guidebook for both the San Juans and the
Gulf Islands, I'd recommend Wagonners Cruising Guide. Another
interesting book, particularly for trailer boaters, is "Day by Day to
Alaska" by Dale Peterson.

Plan on spending a *lot* of time in the area, and still leaving with
many of the major highlights unseen and unexplored. Bring your rain
gear regardless of when you're visiting, but plan on actually wearing
it a lot unless you're here from mid-July to mid-August. Especially on
the W Coast of Vancouver Island. (The Gulf Islands enjoy a bit of the
"rain shadow" effect from the mountain ranges on Vancouver Island, so
they experience maybe as many cloudy but a fewer actually rainy days
than the W coast of the island).

Warning: Cruising up here can be habit forming. A lot of people who
haven't been here just don't "get it", but after spending some time in
our soggy paradise they find they can't "forget" it. :-)


Been to Victoria a few times. Was just there a couple of months ago when we
started our drive to Alaska. High Tea at the Empress. Score big points
with the wife for that. We took the Ferry to Prince Rupert about 1970 and
have fished Campbell River. Figured I would take the boat up 21' with full
canvas and cruise the San Juans and Gulf islands staying at hotels and B&B's
for a week or two and then over to Ucluelet or up to the North end of the
Island. Nootka Sound and Kyuquot Sound.

Calif Bill wrote:


Been to Victoria a few times. Was just there a couple of months ago when we
started our drive to Alaska. High Tea at the Empress. Score big points
with the wife for that. We took the Ferry to Prince Rupert about 1970 and
have fished Campbell River. Figured I would take the boat up 21' with full
canvas and cruise the San Juans and Gulf islands staying at hotels and B&B's
for a week or two and then over to Ucluelet or up to the North end of the
Island. Nootka Sound and Kyuquot Sound.

If you're going to B&B it in the area, check out Hastings House at
Ganges.
I'll bet the rooms are pricey, but the also pricey restaurant is
*fabulous* (!), and one of the few truly formal 5-star dining
experiences to be found in the area. If you scored points for high tea
at the Empress, you'll score a few more for dinner and a room (or even
just dinner) at Hastings House. It's a very short walk to the hotel and
restaurant from the two main marinas.

If you arrange your schedule so that you're in Ganges on
Saturday....(and you *will* want to spend a day or so in Ganges to get
a complete Gulf Islands experience)...there's a Saturday market that is
very worthwhile. My wife loves Ganges, thrives on the Saturday market,
and we have a new hand-knitted wool throw rug in the galley this year
to prove it.

If you get a chance, haul your trailer over to Lund on the mainland and
launch there to explore Desolation Sound......(allow several days to
see Desolation Sound). But most people without unlimited amounts of
time won't try to cram the San Juans, the Gulf Islands, and Desolation
Sound into the same trip. That's like one of those excurisions that
take you to "Five European Countries in Seven Days!".....no thanks,
(IMO)

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
oups.com...

Calif Bill wrote:


Been to Victoria a few times. Was just there a couple of months ago when
we
started our drive to Alaska. High Tea at the Empress. Score big points
with the wife for that. We took the Ferry to Prince Rupert about 1970
and
have fished Campbell River. Figured I would take the boat up 21' with
full
canvas and cruise the San Juans and Gulf islands staying at hotels and
B&B's
for a week or two and then over to Ucluelet or up to the North end of the
Island. Nootka Sound and Kyuquot Sound.

If you're going to B&B it in the area, check out Hastings House at
Ganges.
I'll bet the rooms are pricey, but the also pricey restaurant is
*fabulous* (!), and one of the few truly formal 5-star dining
experiences to be found in the area. If you scored points for high tea
at the Empress, you'll score a few more for dinner and a room (or even
just dinner) at Hastings House. It's a very short walk to the hotel and
restaurant from the two main marinas.

If you arrange your schedule so that you're in Ganges on
Saturday....(and you *will* want to spend a day or so in Ganges to get
a complete Gulf Islands experience)...there's a Saturday market that is
very worthwhile. My wife loves Ganges, thrives on the Saturday market,
and we have a new hand-knitted wool throw rug in the galley this year
to prove it.

If you get a chance, haul your trailer over to Lund on the mainland and
launch there to explore Desolation Sound......(allow several days to
see Desolation Sound). But most people without unlimited amounts of
time won't try to cram the San Juans, the Gulf Islands, and Desolation
Sound into the same trip. That's like one of those excurisions that
take you to "Five European Countries in Seven Days!".....no thanks,
(IMO)

If you are trailering, Barkley Sound, the Broken Islands (and Ucluelet) is a
very easy trip from Port Alberni, down the Alberni Inlet. There is trailer
parking available in Port ALberni and a good launch. Have done that a few
times--before I got a bigger boat .

Regards, Dan

"Chuck Gould" wrote in message
oups.com...

Calif Bill wrote:


Been to Victoria a few times. Was just there a couple of months ago when
we
started our drive to Alaska. High Tea at the Empress. Score big points
with the wife for that. We took the Ferry to Prince Rupert about 1970
and
have fished Campbell River. Figured I would take the boat up 21' with
full
canvas and cruise the San Juans and Gulf islands staying at hotels and
B&B's
for a week or two and then over to Ucluelet or up to the North end of the
Island. Nootka Sound and Kyuquot Sound.

If you're going to B&B it in the area, check out Hastings House at
Ganges.
I'll bet the rooms are pricey, but the also pricey restaurant is
*fabulous* (!), and one of the few truly formal 5-star dining
experiences to be found in the area. If you scored points for high tea
at the Empress, you'll score a few more for dinner and a room (or even
just dinner) at Hastings House. It's a very short walk to the hotel and
restaurant from the two main marinas.

If you arrange your schedule so that you're in Ganges on
Saturday....(and you *will* want to spend a day or so in Ganges to get
a complete Gulf Islands experience)...there's a Saturday market that is
very worthwhile. My wife loves Ganges, thrives on the Saturday market,
and we have a new hand-knitted wool throw rug in the galley this year
to prove it.

If you get a chance, haul your trailer over to Lund on the mainland and
launch there to explore Desolation Sound......(allow several days to
see Desolation Sound). But most people without unlimited amounts of
time won't try to cram the San Juans, the Gulf Islands, and Desolation
Sound into the same trip. That's like one of those excurisions that
take you to "Five European Countries in Seven Days!".....no thanks,
(IMO)


Rooms are $500+ night, but includes tea and breakfast.

'Wake-up Hamper, Farm Fresh Breakfast and Afternoon Tea are included for
single or double occupancy, with additional persons at $85 each per day.
These rates are in CANADIAN funds, and are subject to applicable taxes.
Gratuities are at your discretion.
An A la Carte menu and also a 6 course chef's Menu at $125.00 are now
offered'

I think I will go for the dinner, not the room.
http://www.hastingshouse.com/html/2006_tariffs.html

Desolation Sound sounds good. Isn't that where Lloyd and is blow up vinyl
xxx visit? Figure maybe 3 weeks for the trip. We have done 4 European
countries in 3 weeks one time. But have also done Italy in a month. and 2
countries in a month.

Calif Bill wrote:


Desolation Sound sounds good. Isn't that where Lloyd and is blow up vinyl
xxx visit? Figure maybe 3 weeks for the trip. We have done 4 European
countries in 3 weeks one time. But have also done Italy in a month. and 2
countries in a month.

Here's something from my archives about a day in Desolation Sound. It
might whet your appetite. I might have posted this about a year ago, so
I apologize if it's a repeat.

Toba Wildernest


We motored slowly up Homfray Channel, where despite the late August
date and the Desolation Sound location we encountered no other boats
for over two hours. The wind was fast asleep, and the seas perfectly
unperturbed. Our passage was like sliding across a black, silver, and
cerulean mirror, with the gentle ripples of our wake forming a long,
crisp, perpetual V. We glided through the shady canyons between craggy,
dark green mountain peaks girdled with tumbling layers of crinoline
clouds. It seemed as though the world had been drawn afresh for a
moment, and especially to our taste.

The nearly vertical mountains flanking our course were lofty summits
indeed, born in almost equally deep caverns in the world of silent
blackness under our keel. Peaks near Pt. Foster are taller than
Snoqualmie Pass. Just beyond the abandoned village at Homfray Creek,
Mt. Whiledon sports a NE glacier at an elevation approaching 6000 feet
(higher than Denver, Colorado). Our sounder confirmed the predictions
of the chartplotter, measuring depths of 1500, 1700, and finally
surrendering the effort as the bottom dropped below the 2000-foot limit
of the device. From our vantage point in the channel, no roads, farms,
or villages could be seen. Our view was much like that of the early
Spanish and English explorers, or even the first nations that preceded
them.

Our destination was a remote marina, Toba Wildernest Resort, where
Pryce Channel, Homfray Channel, Waddington Channel, and Toba Inlet
converge. (At the dock, our GPS read 50.19.479 N, 124.47.71 W). A
booming, blinking, blasting and blaring "sell you a condo?" resort
would be preposterous here, but we would discover the Toba Wildernest
to be a low-key, rustic, and relaxed facility that enhanced, rather
than spoiled, one of our "perfect days" in Desolation Sound.

Toba Wildernest is well off the beaten path. No roads reach the marina,
and the only access is by boat or seaplane. Jan asked the marina owner,
Kyle Hunter, whether there were any neighbors in the vicinity. "Do you
mean year 'round? During the winter months, there is a family with a
fish farm that lives partway down Waddington Channel. They are only a
few miles off, and that makes them the closest neighbors."

We arrived at Toba Wildernest early in the afternoon, and initially
were the only transient boat on the sun-bleached wooden float. We
hailed the marina on the VHF as we approached, but got no response.
(Kyle later concluded that he had probably been running a chain saw
when we called). Kyle met us at the dock positioned us at the extreme
end of the float to maximize available space. As the afternoon matured,
a half dozen additional boats straggled in to fill most of the
remaining space, but another boat or two could have been accommodated
with just a bit of additional shuffling. Overnight moorage at Toba
Wildernest is $1 per foot. There is an unlimited supply of pure
mountain stream water at the dock, but no shorepower. A stainless steel
fish gutting station and sink occupies one end of the main float and
reportedly sees frequent use.
Depths of over 100-feet are a modest cast away. "If you want to drop a
jig off the float you're likely to catch a bottom fish for dinner,"
said Kyle. "We have even had people catch salmon while standing on the
dock."

While going ashore at Toba Wildernest one immediately notices a few
indicators of the resort's general character. The gangway from the
float to the shoreline consists of two large logs, with a series of
planks nailed between them. The logs have just the slightest "spring"
underfoot. A hand painted sign welcomes boaters ashore. The path to the
office is lined with a canvas shaded porch swing, a casual table, and a
chunk of vengeful firewood wrapped entirely around the handle of an
axe. A wooden swing rigged with bright yellow poly rope dangles from a
timber nailed between two trees.

Facilities ashore are basic. The marina office sells blocks of ice, and
keeps a few groceries. Items available for sale are listed and priced
on a chalkboard, and as each runs out it is crossed off the list until
the next boatload of supplies arrives at Toba Wildernest. A
fastidiously clean restroom and shower accommodate visiting boaters,
with lights and hot water provided by a stream-driven electric turbine.
Toba Wildernest includes a group of rustic cabins available for
vacation and holiday rental, and all appeared occupied during our
visit.

Beyond lazing around the boat, kayaking in the cove, sampling the ice
cream bars, testing the swings, doing some reading, writing, resting,
and possibly even some casual fishing, recreational options at Toba
Wildernest include a very memorable hike up to the base of a nearby
waterfall. The 25-30 minute trek is more demanding than just a casual
walk, so some serious shoes (no flip-flops) and a moderate level of
physical fitness will prove useful.

The trail to the waterfall begins as a wide path at the marina office.
The path crosses a short bridge across a rocky creek bed, just up from
the mouth of the stream. As the driest weeks of summer drew to a close,
there was still a spirited flow beneath the bridge. The width of the
streambed and the expanse of barren rocks foster the impression that
during the rainy months there is a rampaging torrent here. The first
left-hand fork in the trail leads to a service area for Toba Wildernest
and is closed to the public. Setting off up the second left-hand fork
will begin a continuous climb to the waterfalls above the marina. The
trail is well marked and has been heavily traveled, but roots, stones,
and uneven footing in places require a modicum of deliberation
traveling to or from the falls.

While huffing and puffing up the steep trail, there are a number of
excellent opportunities to stop and examine aspects of the Toba
Wildernest's water supply system. A plastic pipe carries water from
near the base of the falls to a large, steel tank perhaps 1/3 of the
way from the summit of the trail. Another plastic pipe carries water
from the tank to Toba Wildernest, and the overflow spills away to
rejoin the stream surging through an adjacent ravine. I was grateful
for the interesting study in engineering, as it provided a dignified
excuse for slowing the pace a bit and recovering my breath. Near the
top of the trail, there is a wrecked cement mixer corroding away in the
bushes! (I was later told that it was hauled up there with pulleys and
cables, not packed in by hand).

A second bridge, far more dramatic than the short span across the mouth
of the creek, traverses the stream along the trail to the falls. Two
tree trunks were felled across the boulder strewn creek bed, and joined
by a series of cross ties. While the cross braces are about 8 feet
wide, only a 2-foot wide section has been planked to create a walkway.
All of the foot boards were once covered with roofing shingles to
provide traction, and in most places quite a bit of this covering is
still in place. Some of the planks appear extremely worn, but none
seemed actually rotten. A handrail fashioned from 1 x 4's prevents
hikers from tumbling off the single-file bridge decking into the rocky
tumult 10-15 feet below.

As the climb continues, the sound of falling water becomes increasingly
louder; a windy spray and splashing sound that harmonizes perfectly
with the gurgling shush of swirling rivulets tumbling past the rocks,
the logs, and over the short ledges in the stream.

Near the base of the falls, two sections of the trail would be almost
impassable except for the presence of some strategically placed
climbing ropes. The first rope assists hikers in scrambling up a
vertical stack of roots, with just a few very tenuous footholds. Jan
often leads our hikes while I trail along behind making mental notes
and taking pictures. She had started up the first rope when a
suspicious thought occurred to her. "I assume you're not back there
even thinking about taking my picture from that particular angle, are
you?"

I shoved my camera back into the bag very quickly. "Oh no, dear. Of
course not. I mean, I wouldn't think of it. But this rope climb has
pretty good story value, so what do you say you stop about halfway up
the rope and I'll see if I can find an even more flattering perspective
from which I might get a photo?" So she did. (Jan is such a good
sport).

The second rope climb is longer, and slightly trickier than the first
as it crosses a curving expanse of barren rock where the footholds are
nothing more than fissures, cracks, and wrinkles along the surface. On
a rainy day, the second rope climb is probably quite slippery. On a dry
day, one is still keenly aware that a personally untested climbing rope
is the only variable between a safe arrival at the falls and falling
down the rock to possibly serious injury.

The waterfall above Toba Wildernest is high, very vertical, and
dramatic. If the waterfall were a musical instrument, it would be a
bagpipe. Against a steady and perpetually droning cascade, random shots
of crisp white water break loose and leap from an upper ledge. The
globs soar into space and break into groups of drops. Notes against
tone are as water on stone- and the exuberant, airborne non-conformists
fall independently for a few seconds and then disappear into the
mainstream with a soft percussive tap on the naked parapet below. The
August flow gathers in deep, clear, cauldrons among the basalt
escarpments nearby, as though the water needs to catch a breath after
the free fall and before plunging into the rocky channel to complete
the last leg of a journey to the sea. The successive pools are gold,
and grey, and green. A fawn colored log is tossed across one corner of
the lowest pool, where it waits for the next high water to flush it
farther along the stream. During these low water months, sightseers at
the falls often venture out onto the same steep, slippery crags that
will be overwhelmed by a spring surge. The visitors erect small cairns
of stones to commemorate their odysseys.

When the rains come and the waters rise, the feeble cairns raised by
the last summers' visitors will be swept aside by the raging, renewing,
torrents. Perhaps the rise and fall of these temporary cairns
illustrate a principle that allows Toba Wildernest to remain a special
place, where visiting boaters can find some genuine hospitality but
where each summer begins anew, afresh, and delightfully unspoiled.