Hanta-Yo-Yo wrote:

You might just clip the ends back to the desired length, and then glass
over the opening to be water proof. That way, the load handling central
structure will not be compromised, as well as the rocker that is needed
to turn easily. Also you will not have to mess with the combing if you
plan to use a spray skirt.

The sharp pointy ends are not needed really as demostrated in the newer
generation of playboats and creekers. You are not looking to achive
great speed characteristics, and depending on how good you are at the
glass work, will tell how the finished product will be.

You could always mount some sort of maiden form on the bow to scare off
the swamp gods, or maybe attract a mermaid! HYY

This is the best suggestion so far to take off a foot or so. I'd leave
the bow alone unless more has to be taken off than can com eoff the
stern. Cutting a foot off the back won't noticably effect bouyancy or
stability. I'd put on a plywood transom. It would be easy enough to
hold a piece of plywood against the cuttoff end and trace around with a
pencil to get the shape. Then, if using an electric jig saw, set the
base plate at an angle equal to the taper of the boat when cutting it
out. A square cut transom won't fit the boat as well. The transom can
be glued into the hull reinforced by bocks of wood glued in before or
nails through the hull or both. The inside sruface of the plywood will
have to be painted before it's put on the boat. My grandfather did this
with a cedar strip canoe that had one end damaged. It worked well.