Hi all - first time lurker, first time poster..

I bought a 14' 65 horse runabout knowing that the floor was completely
rotten. I removed the floor and the stringers. I bought a sheet of 3/4
marine ply and began replacing the stringers. I have two questions:

1) there is a section in the middle of the boat where the floor "dips".
It looks like it's designed this way, but it will call for some
creative sawing on the replacement stringers. Unfortunately the
stringers I removed were total mush and I couldn't use them for
templates. Is it possible that sitting on the trailer with rotten
stringers has caused the boat to sag? There are no chips or cracks on
the bottom. It COULD be that it's designed this way, but it seems like
water would collect there.

2) I was planning on wrapping the stringer in glass mat and epoxying
before placing the stringer into the channel - is this the right way to
do it?


Thanks for any help.

Bill

On 1, I agree and would suspect that the hull is not in it's original shape.
When they build boats the common practice is to install the stringers and
floor while the hull is still in the mold. This keeps the hull in the
proper shape. Often the floor also serves to hold the sides at a certain
position. Also check for the transom sagging down and developing a hook at
the bottom of the hull. If your trailer has rollers it would be even more
likely that it was out of shape. Trailers with bunks are better for keeping
the bottom of the hull flat. You may be able to build a wooden cradle for
the boat hull that will get it back into shape. It won't be trivial.

On 2, yes stringers are usually glassed into place. Better boats used
enough glass mat so that even if the wood rotted there was still enough
strength in the glass it's self. Wood will eventually get wet. If you can
use a synthetuc material instead that would be better. Some builders no
longer use wood for the floor, stringers, or transom. But that raises the
price a lot and you probably will be happy with another 10-15 years out of
this boat so you will have to decide that. If you use wood try to get
something other than pine as pine really rots fast once it is wet. I would
also recomend that you seal the wood with epoxy before putting any glass on
it. Use a lot of coats on the edges as this is where wood soaks up the most
water. Epoxy is much much better that polyester resin so you are making the
right choice there. I recomend US Composites, they have good products at a
fraction of the price of people like West Marine. Epoxy is made by big
chemical companies like Dupont so when you buy West Marine you are just
paying for the name.

You didn't mention the transom. Does it have a wood transom as well? You
should check it too if it does.

"Bill" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all - first time lurker, first time poster..

I bought a 14' 65 horse runabout knowing that the floor was completely
rotten. I removed the floor and the stringers. I bought a sheet of 3/4
marine ply and began replacing the stringers. I have two questions:

1) there is a section in the middle of the boat where the floor "dips".
It looks like it's designed this way, but it will call for some
creative sawing on the replacement stringers. Unfortunately the
stringers I removed were total mush and I couldn't use them for
templates. Is it possible that sitting on the trailer with rotten
stringers has caused the boat to sag? There are no chips or cracks on
the bottom. It COULD be that it's designed this way, but it seems like
water would collect there.

2) I was planning on wrapping the stringer in glass mat and epoxying
before placing the stringer into the channel - is this the right way to
do it?


Thanks for any help.

Bill

WOW - Great reply, thanks very much!

I was afraid of that - we're going to do as you suggested, we'll use
cribbing to bring the hull to a shape that appears close to the proper
shape.

We checked the transom with a screwdriver from the inside by poking. We
also removed a couple of bolts and looked in there and all seems well.
The motor seems VERY sturdy on the transom - can this be deceptive?

Thanks again,

Bill

I have been through the entire process recently and I can tell you that
everything said is right on the money. I would only add that you should
thoroughly check the transom. My keel/stringers/cross braces and deck
were totally wiped out mush and I had to completely re-engineer them. I
used CLEAR, DRY Alaskan Yellow Cedar (very resistant to mold/mildew)
and encapsulated it in epoxy I bought from US Composites (I agree it's
the best bang for the buck epoxy and worked out great for me.)

Don't forget about flotation foam! You will need closed cell foam in
between the stringers/keel - enough to satisfy Coast Guard regulations
regarding fixed hull flotation. You can buy 2-part expanding foam from
US Composites as well. It's pretty easy to do.

Keep in mind that epoxy CURES in about a week. You want to lay up epoxy
layers PRIOR to full cure [if you can] for better chemical adhesion.

I soaked _every_ piece of wood in thin epoxy (2 coats) and then placed
it in it's place in the boat. Every screw hole (where I used SS screws
to screw the keel/stringers/cross braces together) was also sealed with
epoxy. I also used epoxy to glue all the wood together. Maybe that's a
"belt & suspenders" approach, but it worked for me.

After screwing/gluing, then I wrapped everything in fiberglass
roving/mat tying everything down to the floor of the hull and to each
other. In order to do this, I used a staple gun to staple the mat to
the wood nice and tight. You could also use thumb tacks but whatever
you use, take your time to lay out the fiberglass mat is as large of
pieces as you can and there shouldn't be any air pockets. You may need
to do this in several sessions - don't try to do it in one fell swoop.

I mixed my epoxy up one small plastic cup (8 oz) at a time... that goes
a long way and if you mix too much up at a time, it will create too
much heat and start catalyzing before you use it. Buy a bag of cheap,
throw away brushes and some paint rollers (I bought the skinny foam
kind designed for painting behind the toilet) that you can toss. Use
the rollers to smooth out the epoxy, also when applying it to the
decking later.

I hope this helps.

Jeff
Bill wrote:
WOW - Great reply, thanks very much!

I was afraid of that - we're going to do as you suggested, we'll use
cribbing to bring the hull to a shape that appears close to the proper
shape.

We checked the transom with a screwdriver from the inside by poking. We
also removed a couple of bolts and looked in there and all seems well.
The motor seems VERY sturdy on the transom - can this be deceptive?

Thanks again,

Bill

Depending on the age of the boat he may not be required to have the
flotation foam. It is a personal thing but I prefer to have no flotation
foam and drainage holes strategically placed in the stringers so that if any
water does get below the floor it will drain to the bilge. Problem with
flotation foam is that it generally has voids and then can trap water in
those voids. Accelerates the wood rot problem. Rot problems in runabouts
increased when the cg started the flotation requirement and manufs solved it
by injecting foam under the floor. I have seen some clever alternatives by
using sections of pool noodles and sealed 2 liter coke bottles under the
floor. Still leaves room for water to drain if needed. I'd be worried
about the later rattling though. When I replaced my stringers I did not
replace the flotation foam. But I boat in local lakes where I can't get far
from a shore and only go out in fair weather. I probably would have put it
in if I went off shore.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have been through the entire process recently and I can tell you that
everything said is right on the money. I would only add that you should
thoroughly check the transom. My keel/stringers/cross braces and deck
were totally wiped out mush and I had to completely re-engineer them. I
used CLEAR, DRY Alaskan Yellow Cedar (very resistant to mold/mildew)
and encapsulated it in epoxy I bought from US Composites (I agree it's
the best bang for the buck epoxy and worked out great for me.)

Don't forget about flotation foam! You will need closed cell foam in
between the stringers/keel - enough to satisfy Coast Guard regulations
regarding fixed hull flotation. You can buy 2-part expanding foam from
US Composites as well. It's pretty easy to do.

Keep in mind that epoxy CURES in about a week. You want to lay up epoxy
layers PRIOR to full cure [if you can] for better chemical adhesion.

I soaked _every_ piece of wood in thin epoxy (2 coats) and then placed
it in it's place in the boat. Every screw hole (where I used SS screws
to screw the keel/stringers/cross braces together) was also sealed with
epoxy. I also used epoxy to glue all the wood together. Maybe that's a
"belt & suspenders" approach, but it worked for me.

After screwing/gluing, then I wrapped everything in fiberglass
roving/mat tying everything down to the floor of the hull and to each
other. In order to do this, I used a staple gun to staple the mat to
the wood nice and tight. You could also use thumb tacks but whatever
you use, take your time to lay out the fiberglass mat is as large of
pieces as you can and there shouldn't be any air pockets. You may need
to do this in several sessions - don't try to do it in one fell swoop.

I mixed my epoxy up one small plastic cup (8 oz) at a time... that goes
a long way and if you mix too much up at a time, it will create too
much heat and start catalyzing before you use it. Buy a bag of cheap,
throw away brushes and some paint rollers (I bought the skinny foam
kind designed for painting behind the toilet) that you can toss. Use
the rollers to smooth out the epoxy, also when applying it to the
decking later.

I hope this helps.

Jeff
Bill wrote:
WOW - Great reply, thanks very much!

I was afraid of that - we're going to do as you suggested, we'll use
cribbing to bring the hull to a shape that appears close to the proper
shape.

We checked the transom with a screwdriver from the inside by poking. We
also removed a couple of bolts and looked in there and all seems well.
The motor seems VERY sturdy on the transom - can this be deceptive?

Thanks again,

Bill

James, I'm way ahead of you on this one.

I read the Coast Guard requirements and I didn't see any exceptions for
a boat's age, but I don't claim to be an expert with CG regs. As for
me, I would rather know that my hull could be towed in rather than
pulled up from the bottom of the lake.

The foam that was in my hull (from the original mfg.) was SOAKED so
based on that I could understand a person being wary of using foam.
However, the kind of foam they sell at US Composites (the stuff I put
in) is a "closed cell foam" that 'skins' over and is waterproof. It
just NOT the same stuff. It has a consistency very much like those pool
noodles you described.

Before I poured the foam in, I laid cut up pieces of garden hose along
the hull/keel for water to flow through. I built little dams to limit
he flow of the foam (so it went where I wanted it to go.) I also put
small holes through the stringers in strategic areas (epoxied through)
for water to flow back to the bilge/drain area. I tested the whole
thing before I buttoned it up by taking my garden hose and running a
lot of water right into the fore of the boat and watching where the
water went. I was very pleased with the results.

-Jeff
James wrote:
Depending on the age of the boat he may not be required to have the
flotation foam. It is a personal thing but I prefer to have no flotation
foam and drainage holes strategically placed in the stringers so that if any
water does get below the floor it will drain to the bilge. Problem with
flotation foam is that it generally has voids and then can trap water in
those voids. Accelerates the wood rot problem. Rot problems in runabouts
increased when the cg started the flotation requirement and manufs solved it
by injecting foam under the floor. I have seen some clever alternatives by
using sections of pool noodles and sealed 2 liter coke bottles under the
floor. Still leaves room for water to drain if needed. I'd be worried
about the later rattling though. When I replaced my stringers I did not
replace the flotation foam. But I boat in local lakes where I can't get far
from a shore and only go out in fair weather. I probably would have put it
in if I went off shore.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have been through the entire process recently and I can tell you that
everything said is right on the money. I would only add that you should
thoroughly check the transom. My keel/stringers/cross braces and deck
were totally wiped out mush and I had to completely re-engineer them. I
used CLEAR, DRY Alaskan Yellow Cedar (very resistant to mold/mildew)
and encapsulated it in epoxy I bought from US Composites (I agree it's
the best bang for the buck epoxy and worked out great for me.)

Don't forget about flotation foam! You will need closed cell foam in
between the stringers/keel - enough to satisfy Coast Guard regulations
regarding fixed hull flotation. You can buy 2-part expanding foam from
US Composites as well. It's pretty easy to do.

Keep in mind that epoxy CURES in about a week. You want to lay up epoxy
layers PRIOR to full cure [if you can] for better chemical adhesion.

I soaked _every_ piece of wood in thin epoxy (2 coats) and then placed
it in it's place in the boat. Every screw hole (where I used SS screws
to screw the keel/stringers/cross braces together) was also sealed with
epoxy. I also used epoxy to glue all the wood together. Maybe that's a
"belt & suspenders" approach, but it worked for me.

After screwing/gluing, then I wrapped everything in fiberglass
roving/mat tying everything down to the floor of the hull and to each
other. In order to do this, I used a staple gun to staple the mat to
the wood nice and tight. You could also use thumb tacks but whatever
you use, take your time to lay out the fiberglass mat is as large of
pieces as you can and there shouldn't be any air pockets. You may need
to do this in several sessions - don't try to do it in one fell swoop.

I mixed my epoxy up one small plastic cup (8 oz) at a time... that goes
a long way and if you mix too much up at a time, it will create too
much heat and start catalyzing before you use it. Buy a bag of cheap,
throw away brushes and some paint rollers (I bought the skinny foam
kind designed for painting behind the toilet) that you can toss. Use
the rollers to smooth out the epoxy, also when applying it to the
decking later.

I hope this helps.

Jeff
Bill wrote:
WOW - Great reply, thanks very much!

I was afraid of that - we're going to do as you suggested, we'll use
cribbing to bring the hull to a shape that appears close to the proper
shape.

We checked the transom with a screwdriver from the inside by poking. We
also removed a couple of bolts and looked in there and all seems well.
The motor seems VERY sturdy on the transom - can this be deceptive?

Thanks again,

Bill

It's not exactly the boat's age. It's if the boat was built before that reg
was enacted. It was not retroactive. If he didn't already have foam he
doesn't have to put it in now.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
oups.com...
James, I'm way ahead of you on this one.

I read the Coast Guard requirements and I didn't see any exceptions for
a boat's age, but I don't claim to be an expert with CG regs. As for
me, I would rather know that my hull could be towed in rather than
pulled up from the bottom of the lake.

The foam that was in my hull (from the original mfg.) was SOAKED so
based on that I could understand a person being wary of using foam.
However, the kind of foam they sell at US Composites (the stuff I put
in) is a "closed cell foam" that 'skins' over and is waterproof. It
just NOT the same stuff. It has a consistency very much like those pool
noodles you described.

Before I poured the foam in, I laid cut up pieces of garden hose along
the hull/keel for water to flow through. I built little dams to limit
he flow of the foam (so it went where I wanted it to go.) I also put
small holes through the stringers in strategic areas (epoxied through)
for water to flow back to the bilge/drain area. I tested the whole
thing before I buttoned it up by taking my garden hose and running a
lot of water right into the fore of the boat and watching where the
water went. I was very pleased with the results.

-Jeff
James wrote:
Depending on the age of the boat he may not be required to have the
flotation foam. It is a personal thing but I prefer to have no flotation
foam and drainage holes strategically placed in the stringers so that if
any
water does get below the floor it will drain to the bilge. Problem with
flotation foam is that it generally has voids and then can trap water in
those voids. Accelerates the wood rot problem. Rot problems in
runabouts
increased when the cg started the flotation requirement and manufs solved
it
by injecting foam under the floor. I have seen some clever alternatives
by
using sections of pool noodles and sealed 2 liter coke bottles under the
floor. Still leaves room for water to drain if needed. I'd be worried
about the later rattling though. When I replaced my stringers I did not
replace the flotation foam. But I boat in local lakes where I can't get
far
from a shore and only go out in fair weather. I probably would have put
it
in if I went off shore.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have been through the entire process recently and I can tell you that
everything said is right on the money. I would only add that you should
thoroughly check the transom. My keel/stringers/cross braces and deck
were totally wiped out mush and I had to completely re-engineer them. I
used CLEAR, DRY Alaskan Yellow Cedar (very resistant to mold/mildew)
and encapsulated it in epoxy I bought from US Composites (I agree it's
the best bang for the buck epoxy and worked out great for me.)

Don't forget about flotation foam! You will need closed cell foam in
between the stringers/keel - enough to satisfy Coast Guard regulations
regarding fixed hull flotation. You can buy 2-part expanding foam from
US Composites as well. It's pretty easy to do.

Keep in mind that epoxy CURES in about a week. You want to lay up epoxy
layers PRIOR to full cure [if you can] for better chemical adhesion.

I soaked _every_ piece of wood in thin epoxy (2 coats) and then placed
it in it's place in the boat. Every screw hole (where I used SS screws
to screw the keel/stringers/cross braces together) was also sealed with
epoxy. I also used epoxy to glue all the wood together. Maybe that's a
"belt & suspenders" approach, but it worked for me.

After screwing/gluing, then I wrapped everything in fiberglass
roving/mat tying everything down to the floor of the hull and to each
other. In order to do this, I used a staple gun to staple the mat to
the wood nice and tight. You could also use thumb tacks but whatever
you use, take your time to lay out the fiberglass mat is as large of
pieces as you can and there shouldn't be any air pockets. You may need
to do this in several sessions - don't try to do it in one fell swoop.

I mixed my epoxy up one small plastic cup (8 oz) at a time... that goes
a long way and if you mix too much up at a time, it will create too
much heat and start catalyzing before you use it. Buy a bag of cheap,
throw away brushes and some paint rollers (I bought the skinny foam
kind designed for painting behind the toilet) that you can toss. Use
the rollers to smooth out the epoxy, also when applying it to the
decking later.

I hope this helps.

Jeff
Bill wrote:
WOW - Great reply, thanks very much!

I was afraid of that - we're going to do as you suggested, we'll use
cribbing to bring the hull to a shape that appears close to the proper
shape.

We checked the transom with a screwdriver from the inside by poking.
We
also removed a couple of bolts and looked in there and all seems well.
The motor seems VERY sturdy on the transom - can this be deceptive?

Thanks again,

Bill

I guess I had to look up the regs myself because what you're saying
doesn't sound right.

Coast Guard regs state that there must be "symmetrical flotation"
period. It doesn't say you can avoid having it and being legal.

Here's a simplified version of the regs for "backyard boat builders"
with calculations, etc. on how much should be installed and whe

http://www.duckboats.net/USCGPamphlet.doc

Do what YOU want to do, but I always advocate safety. I wouldn't want
to hear that this gentleman poster's boat swamped and sank when I told
him he didn't need flotation. But that's me...

Jeff



James wrote:
It's not exactly the boat's age. It's if the boat was built before that reg
was enacted. It was not retroactive. If he didn't already have foam he
doesn't have to put it in now.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
oups.com...
James, I'm way ahead of you on this one.

I read the Coast Guard requirements and I didn't see any exceptions for
a boat's age, but I don't claim to be an expert with CG regs. As for
me, I would rather know that my hull could be towed in rather than
pulled up from the bottom of the lake.

The foam that was in my hull (from the original mfg.) was SOAKED so
based on that I could understand a person being wary of using foam.
However, the kind of foam they sell at US Composites (the stuff I put
in) is a "closed cell foam" that 'skins' over and is waterproof. It
just NOT the same stuff. It has a consistency very much like those pool
noodles you described.

Before I poured the foam in, I laid cut up pieces of garden hose along
the hull/keel for water to flow through. I built little dams to limit
he flow of the foam (so it went where I wanted it to go.) I also put
small holes through the stringers in strategic areas (epoxied through)
for water to flow back to the bilge/drain area. I tested the whole
thing before I buttoned it up by taking my garden hose and running a
lot of water right into the fore of the boat and watching where the
water went. I was very pleased with the results.

-Jeff
James wrote:
Depending on the age of the boat he may not be required to have the
flotation foam. It is a personal thing but I prefer to have no flotation
foam and drainage holes strategically placed in the stringers so that if
any
water does get below the floor it will drain to the bilge. Problem with
flotation foam is that it generally has voids and then can trap water in
those voids. Accelerates the wood rot problem. Rot problems in
runabouts
increased when the cg started the flotation requirement and manufs solved
it
by injecting foam under the floor. I have seen some clever alternatives
by
using sections of pool noodles and sealed 2 liter coke bottles under the
floor. Still leaves room for water to drain if needed. I'd be worried
about the later rattling though. When I replaced my stringers I did not
replace the flotation foam. But I boat in local lakes where I can't get
far
from a shore and only go out in fair weather. I probably would have put
it
in if I went off shore.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have been through the entire process recently and I can tell you that
everything said is right on the money. I would only add that you should
thoroughly check the transom. My keel/stringers/cross braces and deck
were totally wiped out mush and I had to completely re-engineer them. I
used CLEAR, DRY Alaskan Yellow Cedar (very resistant to mold/mildew)
and encapsulated it in epoxy I bought from US Composites (I agree it's
the best bang for the buck epoxy and worked out great for me.)

Don't forget about flotation foam! You will need closed cell foam in
between the stringers/keel - enough to satisfy Coast Guard regulations
regarding fixed hull flotation. You can buy 2-part expanding foam from
US Composites as well. It's pretty easy to do.

Keep in mind that epoxy CURES in about a week. You want to lay up epoxy
layers PRIOR to full cure [if you can] for better chemical adhesion.

I soaked _every_ piece of wood in thin epoxy (2 coats) and then placed
it in it's place in the boat. Every screw hole (where I used SS screws
to screw the keel/stringers/cross braces together) was also sealed with
epoxy. I also used epoxy to glue all the wood together. Maybe that's a
"belt & suspenders" approach, but it worked for me.

After screwing/gluing, then I wrapped everything in fiberglass
roving/mat tying everything down to the floor of the hull and to each
other. In order to do this, I used a staple gun to staple the mat to
the wood nice and tight. You could also use thumb tacks but whatever
you use, take your time to lay out the fiberglass mat is as large of
pieces as you can and there shouldn't be any air pockets. You may need
to do this in several sessions - don't try to do it in one fell swoop.

I mixed my epoxy up one small plastic cup (8 oz) at a time... that goes
a long way and if you mix too much up at a time, it will create too
much heat and start catalyzing before you use it. Buy a bag of cheap,
throw away brushes and some paint rollers (I bought the skinny foam
kind designed for painting behind the toilet) that you can toss. Use
the rollers to smooth out the epoxy, also when applying it to the
decking later.

I hope this helps.

Jeff
Bill wrote:
WOW - Great reply, thanks very much!

I was afraid of that - we're going to do as you suggested, we'll use
cribbing to bring the hull to a shape that appears close to the proper
shape.

We checked the transom with a screwdriver from the inside by poking.
We
also removed a couple of bolts and looked in there and all seems well.
The motor seems VERY sturdy on the transom - can this be deceptive?

Thanks again,

Bill

I think you're missing my point. The reg is not retroactive. Any boat
built BEFORE the reg was enacted did not have to have floatation put in it.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
ups.com...
I guess I had to look up the regs myself because what you're saying
doesn't sound right.

Coast Guard regs state that there must be "symmetrical flotation"
period. It doesn't say you can avoid having it and being legal.

Here's a simplified version of the regs for "backyard boat builders"
with calculations, etc. on how much should be installed and whe

http://www.duckboats.net/USCGPamphlet.doc

Do what YOU want to do, but I always advocate safety. I wouldn't want
to hear that this gentleman poster's boat swamped and sank when I told
him he didn't need flotation. But that's me...

Jeff



James wrote:
It's not exactly the boat's age. It's if the boat was built before that
reg
was enacted. It was not retroactive. If he didn't already have foam he
doesn't have to put it in now.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
oups.com...
James, I'm way ahead of you on this one.

I read the Coast Guard requirements and I didn't see any exceptions for
a boat's age, but I don't claim to be an expert with CG regs. As for
me, I would rather know that my hull could be towed in rather than
pulled up from the bottom of the lake.

The foam that was in my hull (from the original mfg.) was SOAKED so
based on that I could understand a person being wary of using foam.
However, the kind of foam they sell at US Composites (the stuff I put
in) is a "closed cell foam" that 'skins' over and is waterproof. It
just NOT the same stuff. It has a consistency very much like those pool
noodles you described.

Before I poured the foam in, I laid cut up pieces of garden hose along
the hull/keel for water to flow through. I built little dams to limit
he flow of the foam (so it went where I wanted it to go.) I also put
small holes through the stringers in strategic areas (epoxied through)
for water to flow back to the bilge/drain area. I tested the whole
thing before I buttoned it up by taking my garden hose and running a
lot of water right into the fore of the boat and watching where the
water went. I was very pleased with the results.

-Jeff
James wrote:
Depending on the age of the boat he may not be required to have the
flotation foam. It is a personal thing but I prefer to have no
flotation
foam and drainage holes strategically placed in the stringers so that
if
any
water does get below the floor it will drain to the bilge. Problem
with
flotation foam is that it generally has voids and then can trap water
in
those voids. Accelerates the wood rot problem. Rot problems in
runabouts
increased when the cg started the flotation requirement and manufs
solved
it
by injecting foam under the floor. I have seen some clever
alternatives
by
using sections of pool noodles and sealed 2 liter coke bottles under
the
floor. Still leaves room for water to drain if needed. I'd be
worried
about the later rattling though. When I replaced my stringers I did
not
replace the flotation foam. But I boat in local lakes where I can't
get
far
from a shore and only go out in fair weather. I probably would have
put
it
in if I went off shore.

"Chehalis Jeff" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have been through the entire process recently and I can tell you
that
everything said is right on the money. I would only add that you
should
thoroughly check the transom. My keel/stringers/cross braces and
deck
were totally wiped out mush and I had to completely re-engineer
them. I
used CLEAR, DRY Alaskan Yellow Cedar (very resistant to mold/mildew)
and encapsulated it in epoxy I bought from US Composites (I agree
it's
the best bang for the buck epoxy and worked out great for me.)

Don't forget about flotation foam! You will need closed cell foam in
between the stringers/keel - enough to satisfy Coast Guard
regulations
regarding fixed hull flotation. You can buy 2-part expanding foam
from
US Composites as well. It's pretty easy to do.

Keep in mind that epoxy CURES in about a week. You want to lay up
epoxy
layers PRIOR to full cure [if you can] for better chemical adhesion.

I soaked _every_ piece of wood in thin epoxy (2 coats) and then
placed
it in it's place in the boat. Every screw hole (where I used SS
screws
to screw the keel/stringers/cross braces together) was also sealed
with
epoxy. I also used epoxy to glue all the wood together. Maybe that's
a
"belt & suspenders" approach, but it worked for me.

After screwing/gluing, then I wrapped everything in fiberglass
roving/mat tying everything down to the floor of the hull and to
each
other. In order to do this, I used a staple gun to staple the mat to
the wood nice and tight. You could also use thumb tacks but whatever
you use, take your time to lay out the fiberglass mat is as large of
pieces as you can and there shouldn't be any air pockets. You may
need
to do this in several sessions - don't try to do it in one fell
swoop.

I mixed my epoxy up one small plastic cup (8 oz) at a time... that
goes
a long way and if you mix too much up at a time, it will create too
much heat and start catalyzing before you use it. Buy a bag of
cheap,
throw away brushes and some paint rollers (I bought the skinny foam
kind designed for painting behind the toilet) that you can toss. Use
the rollers to smooth out the epoxy, also when applying it to the
decking later.

I hope this helps.

Jeff
Bill wrote:
WOW - Great reply, thanks very much!

I was afraid of that - we're going to do as you suggested, we'll
use
cribbing to bring the hull to a shape that appears close to the
proper
shape.

We checked the transom with a screwdriver from the inside by
poking.
We
also removed a couple of bolts and looked in there and all seems
well.
The motor seems VERY sturdy on the transom - can this be deceptive?

Thanks again,

Bill

Hello all.

Thanks a million for all of your replies. I have tried a couple of
things to support the floor to no avail. I'm starting to suspect that
the boat is just made this way.

Here is a couple of pictures if that will help at all. Also - look at
the last couple of pictures..the boat does not rest on the rubber
rollers - is that bad?

http://www.sterzenbachconsulting.com/BoatImages/