wrote:
The line from my toilet runs under the bed, through the rear wall
(transom?) of the interior and into a tank in the engine compartment.
Recently I've removed the walls from around the bottom of the bed,
and now the stink from the hose is much more noticable. It's a white
plastic hose and you can see that there is wire reinforcement within.
Is there something I can wrap the hose in, or any other methods to
reduce the amount of smell that gets out through the hose?

The only real cure for permeated sanitation hoses is replacement.
However, if you'd rather wait till fall to do that miserable job, you
can buy youreself that much time by wrapping the hoses in Saran
Wrap...it must be Saran...no other brand.

But first be sure the hoses ARE permeated: clean off an area of each
section of hose to remove any other from another source that may have
attached itself to the outside of the hose. Wet clean rags in HOT
water...wring 'em out, wrap one around each section of hose...use a
clean rage for each section. When the rag has cooled, remove it and
smell it. If you can smell the same odor on the hose, that hose has
permeated...if you can't smell anything, the hose is ok...we need to
find the real source of your odor.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

If possible, the permanent fix is to replace the flex hose with rigid 1.25"
PVC. (these 2 pipes are about the same size) There is a glue in drain
tailpiece fitting that, by accident, connects from 1.5" flex hose to 1.25"
PVC perfectly. The PVC can have mild bends imparted with a heat gun. Long
straight runs are easiest. There are also flexible rubber T, L and straight
connectors for the PVC, referred to in a hardware store as a "Fernco".
Lee Haefele
Nauticat 33 Alesto (for sale)
Leopard 38 Alesto 2

If possible, the permanent fix is to replace the flex hose with rigid
1.25"
PVC. (these 2 pipes are about the same size)

I wouldn't use rigid PVC in a boat. The vibrations are such that you're
looking for trouble WHEN (not if) the connections start breaking loose.

There may be some portions of the setup that could use rigid pipe but I
doubt it.

Bill Kearney wrote:
If possible, the permanent fix is to replace the flex hose with
rigid
1.25"
PVC. (these 2 pipes are about the same size)

I wouldn't use rigid PVC in a boat. The vibrations are such that
you're looking for trouble WHEN (not if) the connections start
breaking loose.

There may be some portions of the setup that could use rigid pipe but
I doubt it.

Hard PVC pipe is ok for long straight runs, provided it's supported and
"soft coupled" to anything rigid--toilet, tank, y-valve, thru-hull
etc--with enough hose (about a foot) to allow flex and cushion shock.

It's not a good idea to use it in a system that has a lot of short runs
and bends, though...'cuz you end up with a zillion unions, all potential
leakers.


--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

Peggie Hall wrote in news:ZSyog.109820$H71.56700
@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com:

all potential
leakers.


Yecch....I should have learned by now NOT to read Peggie's posts right
after dinner....(c;

On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 07:07:42 -0400, "Lee Haefele"
wrote:

If possible, the permanent fix is to replace the flex hose with rigid 1.25"
PVC. (these 2 pipes are about the same size) There is a glue in drain
tailpiece fitting that, by accident, connects from 1.5" flex hose to 1.25"
PVC perfectly. The PVC can have mild bends imparted with a heat gun. Long
straight runs are easiest. There are also flexible rubber T, L and straight
connectors for the PVC, referred to in a hardware store as a "Fernco".
Lee Haefele
Nauticat 33 Alesto (for sale)
Leopard 38 Alesto 2


This is one of those notes that I salt away, against the day.

Thanks


Brian Whatcott Altus OK

On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 03:53:47 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

The only real cure for permeated sanitation hoses is replacement.
However, if you'd rather wait till fall to do that miserable job, you
can buy youreself that much time by wrapping the hoses in Saran
Wrap...it must be Saran...no other brand.

Aluminium tape will do nicely too.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 03:53:47 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

The only real cure for permeated sanitation hoses is replacement.
However, if you'd rather wait till fall to do that miserable job, you
can buy youreself that much time by wrapping the hoses in Saran
Wrap...it must be Saran...no other brand.

Aluminium tape will do nicely too.

You have to be very careful using aluminum tape...to make sure that it
doesn't ever come in contact anywhere with any wiring or metal. 'Cuz if
it does, galvanic corrosion and/or electrolysis is the result.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books...ku=90&cat=1304

On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:14:56 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Pete C wrote:
On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 03:53:47 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

The only real cure for permeated sanitation hoses is replacement.
However, if you'd rather wait till fall to do that miserable job, you
can buy youreself that much time by wrapping the hoses in Saran
Wrap...it must be Saran...no other brand.

Aluminium tape will do nicely too.

You have to be very careful using aluminum tape...to make sure that it
doesn't ever come in contact anywhere with any wiring or metal. 'Cuz if
it does, galvanic corrosion and/or electrolysis is the result.

Good point, I guess a layer of duct tape or similar would take care of
that.

cheers,
Pete.