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#1
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I am installing a 2nd battery on my boat with the new group 27 deep cycle
being on the aft starboard side, the exiting group 24 starting battery on the aft port side. I will be installing an A/B switch near the existing starter battery. I need custom cut lengths of #4 gauge black and red battery cable w/connectors or precut 10 and 4 foot cables with connectors. Can anyone direct me to a good source with good prices for this? TIA! |
#2
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Harry Krause" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am installing a 2nd battery on my boat with the new group 27 deep cycle being on the aft starboard side, the exiting group 24 starting battery on the aft port side. I will be installing an A/B switch near the existing starter battery. I need custom cut lengths of #4 gauge black and red battery cable w/connectors or precut 10 and 4 foot cables with connectors. Can anyone direct me to a good source with good prices for this? TIA! http://www.custombatterycables.com/ It looks like they use #2 gauge, which may be an overkill.........or is it? Have you purchased from them before and are they competitively priced? |
#3
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posted to rec.boats
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You can get battery cable in any custom cut length, any guage, and
crimp on terminal ends from West Marine or other marine fitter. Don't use automotive cable. JR JimH wrote: I am installing a 2nd battery on my boat with the new group 27 deep cycle being on the aft starboard side, the exiting group 24 starting battery on the aft port side. I will be installing an A/B switch near the existing starter battery. I need custom cut lengths of #4 gauge black and red battery cable w/connectors or precut 10 and 4 foot cables with connectors. Can anyone direct me to a good source with good prices for this? TIA! -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
#4
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posted to rec.boats
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West Marine also has a heavy duty crimper you can use for free, right in the
store, too. "JR North" wrote in message .. . You can get battery cable in any custom cut length, any guage, and crimp on terminal ends from West Marine or other marine fitter. Don't use automotive cable. JR JimH wrote: I am installing a 2nd battery on my boat with the new group 27 deep cycle being on the aft starboard side, the exiting group 24 starting battery on the aft port side. I will be installing an A/B switch near the existing starter battery. I need custom cut lengths of #4 gauge black and red battery cable w/connectors or precut 10 and 4 foot cables with connectors. Can anyone direct me to a good source with good prices for this? TIA! -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
#5
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() JimH wrote: I am installing a 2nd battery on my boat with the new group 27 deep cycle being on the aft starboard side, the exiting group 24 starting battery on the aft port side. I will be installing an A/B switch near the existing starter battery. I need custom cut lengths of #4 gauge black and red battery cable w/connectors or precut 10 and 4 foot cables with connectors. Can anyone direct me to a good source with good prices for this? TIA! You will need #1 AWG wire to carry a 12-volt, 250-amp load 10 feet without undue loss. Golden website for calculating cable sizes: http://www.ancorproducts.com/ Go to "technical information" and enter the length of your run, the load (figured 250 amps for typical starting motor), and the voltage. The screen will instantly calculate your cable requirement. Using the variables shown above, the computer calculated #1 AWG, not #4. Certainly don't pay for "custom" cables. Buy the wire you need, cut to the lengths you want. So far, you're paying only for the wire as it has to be cut to sell, anyway. Fittings on something that heavy will need to be swaged or "pressed" on, and you can just about buy a workable swaging tool for what some people would charge you to make a handful of connections. |
#6
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() JimH wrote: I am installing a 2nd battery on my boat with the new group 27 deep cycle being on the aft starboard side, the exiting group 24 starting battery on the aft port side. I will be installing an A/B switch near the existing starter battery. I need custom cut lengths of #4 gauge black and red battery cable w/connectors or precut 10 and 4 foot cables with connectors. Can anyone direct me to a good source with good prices for this? TIA! NAPA. |
#7
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posted to rec.boats
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I would suggest installing a battery combiner rather then the switch. Run
the 24 to start and the 27 as the house. Anytime the engine is running the 24 will charge first and then the 27. If you really want a switch install a zap stop. I had a switch and would forget to switch etc-etc just like everyone else with a switch. By the way if you switch off with the engine running the alternator diodes will blow. That why the zap stop. |
#8
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Rick" wrote in message ... I would suggest installing a battery combiner rather then the switch. Run the 24 to start and the 27 as the house. Anytime the engine is running the 24 will charge first and then the 27. If you really want a switch install a zap stop. I had a switch and would forget to switch etc-etc just like everyone else with a switch. By the way if you switch off with the engine running the alternator diodes will blow. That why the zap stop. The switch is a Perko with alternator field disconnect. It is already purchased. What do you think of the need to use #1 gauge vs. #2 or #4 for a 10 foot run from battery #2 to the switch? Chuck was estimating a demand of 250 amps (for the starter) using the estimator found in this link: http://www.ancorproducts.com/ |
#9
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() wrote in message ups.com... JimH wrote: I am installing a 2nd battery on my boat with the new group 27 deep cycle being on the aft starboard side, the exiting group 24 starting battery on the aft port side. I will be installing an A/B switch near the existing starter battery. I need custom cut lengths of #4 gauge black and red battery cable w/connectors or precut 10 and 4 foot cables with connectors. Can anyone direct me to a good source with good prices for this? TIA! You will need #1 AWG wire to carry a 12-volt, 250-amp load 10 feet without undue loss. Golden website for calculating cable sizes: http://www.ancorproducts.com/ Go to "technical information" and enter the length of your run, the load (figured 250 amps for typical starting motor), and the voltage. The screen will instantly calculate your cable requirement. Using the variables shown above, the computer calculated #1 AWG, not #4. Certainly don't pay for "custom" cables. Buy the wire you need, cut to the lengths you want. So far, you're paying only for the wire as it has to be cut to sell, anyway. Fittings on something that heavy will need to be swaged or "pressed" on, and you can just about buy a workable swaging tool for what some people would charge you to make a handful of connections. Thanks Chuck. Looks like if I can limit the length to 8 feet max. #2 will be OK. |
#10
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posted to rec.boats
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My Perko switch also has the field disconnect, but it doesn't protect my
alternator. The protection is only afforded to some alternators. I'm away from home now and don't have the specifics, but the alternator on my 3 liter MerCruiser isn't protected by the Perko. As soon as I figure out which of the wires on my alternator to use, I'll connect the Zap Stop. I did label the Perko switch to remind me to turn off the ignition before switching. I only use the switch to disconnect everything while the boat is trailered, and to rotate which battery gets used for starting duty on a given day. Both batteries are the same, and neither is wired as a house battery on my runabout. " JimH" jimhUNDERSCOREosudad@yahooDOTcom wrote in message . .. "Rick" wrote in message ... I would suggest installing a battery combiner rather then the switch. Run the 24 to start and the 27 as the house. Anytime the engine is running the 24 will charge first and then the 27. If you really want a switch install a zap stop. I had a switch and would forget to switch etc-etc just like everyone else with a switch. By the way if you switch off with the engine running the alternator diodes will blow. That why the zap stop. The switch is a Perko with alternator field disconnect. It is already purchased. What do you think of the need to use #1 gauge vs. #2 or #4 for a 10 foot run from battery #2 to the switch? Chuck was estimating a demand of 250 amps (for the starter) using the estimator found in this link: http://www.ancorproducts.com/ |
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