Hi all,

what do you use to secure/lock the safety chain (the chain you're
supposed to cross from the hitch to the trailer)? thanks

s o

"s o" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

what do you use to secure/lock the safety chain (the chain you're
supposed to cross from the hitch to the trailer)? thanks

s o


It's "permanently" attached on the trailer side. On the car, I use nothing.
Make the top of the S-hook point backward. For reasons known only to
magicians, the hooks will fall off if they point forward.

In article ,
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
:"s o" wrote in message
roups.com...
: Hi all,
:
: what do you use to secure/lock the safety chain (the chain you're
: supposed to cross from the hitch to the trailer)? thanks
:
: s o
:
:
:It's "permanently" attached on the trailer side. On the car, I use nothing.
:Make the top of the S-hook point backward. For reasons known only to
:magicians, the hooks will fall off if they point forward.

And if you tow in California, the law says the hooks you attach to your
vehicle must be closed...ie. no open S-hooks.

My trailer has a 1/2" diameter bolt running crossways thru the tongue
shaft, about 12" from the end of the tongue, which the safety chains
are secured to. One chain's end link is under the head of the bolt and
fender washer, the other chain's end link is secured on the other end
of the bolt by a nylon locking nut and fender washer.

"Bob" wrote in message
...
In article ,
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
:"s o" wrote in message
roups.com...
: Hi all,
:
: what do you use to secure/lock the safety chain (the chain you're
: supposed to cross from the hitch to the trailer)? thanks
:
: s o
:
:
:It's "permanently" attached on the trailer side. On the car, I use
nothing.
:Make the top of the S-hook point backward. For reasons known only to
:magicians, the hooks will fall off if they point forward.

And if you tow in California, the law says the hooks you attach to your
vehicle must be closed...ie. no open S-hooks.

My trailer has a 1/2" diameter bolt running crossways thru the tongue
shaft, about 12" from the end of the tongue, which the safety chains
are secured to. One chain's end link is under the head of the bolt and
fender washer, the other chain's end link is secured on the other end
of the bolt by a nylon locking nut and fender washer.

Probably a good idea. But, let's remember that California's an odd place.
"This product contains stuff known to the state of California to cause
cancer in old sneakers". And that's a label on a package of fresh
strawberries. :-)

on the trailer side, it's permanently attatched. on the hitch side,
the chain has no hook or what so ever. so can I just a lock or (bolt
and nuts)? thx

I live in CA.

Bob wrote:
In article ,
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
:"s o" wrote in message
roups.com...
: Hi all,
:
: what do you use to secure/lock the safety chain (the chain you're
: supposed to cross from the hitch to the trailer)? thanks
:
: s o
:
:
:It's "permanently" attached on the trailer side. On the car, I use nothing.
:Make the top of the S-hook point backward. For reasons known only to
:magicians, the hooks will fall off if they point forward.

And if you tow in California, the law says the hooks you attach to your
vehicle must be closed...ie. no open S-hooks.

My trailer has a 1/2" diameter bolt running crossways thru the tongue
shaft, about 12" from the end of the tongue, which the safety chains
are secured to. One chain's end link is under the head of the bolt and
fender washer, the other chain's end link is secured on the other end
of the bolt by a nylon locking nut and fender washer.

s o wrote:
Hi all,

what do you use to secure/lock the safety chain (the chain you're
supposed to cross from the hitch to the trailer)? thanks

s o


Just picked up a new custom made trailer today and what a treat.
The extra heavy chain is attached to two good sized hooks...the kind
with the spring loaded closer. I just have to 'snap' then onto the steel
loups which are part of my hitch receiver.

Tho old trailer (1986 model) has a system where you feed the chain ends
through the loups and then feed the s hook through one link and slip
another link over the end of the hook. Always much harder to release
than hook-up.

I think the question to ask is this: What part of the trailer & hitch system
is most likely to fail and send the trailer careening off the road?



"s o" wrote in message
ups.com...
on the trailer side, it's permanently attatched. on the hitch side,
the chain has no hook or what so ever. so can I just a lock or (bolt
and nuts)? thx

I live in CA.

Bob wrote:
In article ,
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
:"s o" wrote in message
roups.com...
: Hi all,
:
: what do you use to secure/lock the safety chain (the chain you're
: supposed to cross from the hitch to the trailer)? thanks
:
: s o
:
:
:It's "permanently" attached on the trailer side. On the car, I use
nothing.
:Make the top of the S-hook point backward. For reasons known only to
:magicians, the hooks will fall off if they point forward.

And if you tow in California, the law says the hooks you attach to your
vehicle must be closed...ie. no open S-hooks.

My trailer has a 1/2" diameter bolt running crossways thru the tongue
shaft, about 12" from the end of the tongue, which the safety chains
are secured to. One chain's end link is under the head of the bolt and
fender washer, the other chain's end link is secured on the other end
of the bolt by a nylon locking nut and fender washer.

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
I think the question to ask is this: What part of the trailer & hitch system
is most likely to fail and send the trailer careening off the road?

Coupler??
I unhooked mine at a highways weigh station today to find out my
spanking new boat trailer weighs in at 617 pounds. What a bitch of a
time getting the new coupler seated on the 2" ball. I ended up
scratching my new Ranger rear bumper fiddling around.

s o wrote:
on the trailer side, it's permanently attatched. on the hitch side,
the chain has no hook or what so ever. so can I just a lock or (bolt
and nuts)? thx

I live in CA.


I wonder if they allow those 'King Links' down there. It's like a
really big link with a barrel type fastner than can be unscrewed &
opened (about 5/16 in) and after you slide in the end link and another
(after feeding through the loup), you slide the barrel closed and screw
it tight.

"Don White" wrote in message
...
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
I think the question to ask is this: What part of the trailer & hitch
system is most likely to fail and send the trailer careening off the
road?

Coupler??
I unhooked mine at a highways weigh station today to find out my spanking
new boat trailer weighs in at 617 pounds. What a bitch of a time getting
the new coupler seated on the 2" ball. I ended up scratching my new Ranger
rear bumper fiddling around.

Hint: Get a piece of the fattest rope you can find, and keep a pair of
garden gloves in the car. Sling the rope under the trailer tongue and use it
as a handle to lift the thing. It's amazing how much stronger your legs are
when your hands have a thick enough handle, and fat rope is just the thing.
I'm talking about 1" or 2" rope. Fat. Fatness. Fatissimo.