The current issue of Motor Boating has it's ten tips for improving fuel
economy. The first is to install a fuel flow meter. I have one, but have
not yet installed it.

Anyway, the tips are at:


http://www.motorboating.com/motorboa...198188,00.html

or: http://tinyurl.com/ol3sz

The tip on carrying only the fuel needed, plus a safety margin, is not one
I have been practicing. For some reason I've always thought a full tank is
a happy tank, with less condensation, etc, but this article suggests
treating the fuel with a drying additive. It doesn't go into detail about
how much or when.

Does anyone here use drying additives? How often and how much do you use?

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 07:57:06 -0400, Harry Krause
wrote:

JohnH wrote:
The current issue of Motor Boating has it's ten tips for improving fuel
economy. The first is to install a fuel flow meter. I have one, but have
not yet installed it.

Anyway, the tips are at:


http://www.motorboating.com/motorboa...198188,00.html

or: http://tinyurl.com/ol3sz

The tip on carrying only the fuel needed, plus a safety margin, is not one
I have been practicing. For some reason I've always thought a full tank is
a happy tank, with less condensation, etc, but this article suggests
treating the fuel with a drying additive. It doesn't go into detail about
how much or when.

Does anyone here use drying additives? How often and how much do you use?


I've never using a drying additive in season, here or anywhere else, on
a gas-fueled boat. I never fill the tank on Yo-Ho. The most I have in it
at any one time is 100 gallons (out of a 170-gallon capacity). Since I
run at cruising speeds that burn no more than 10 to 11-12 gph, I am not
concerned that I'll run out of fuel.

I've never had the slightest problem getting the Yamaha started. Never
had problems with my Mercs, either. I do run the fuel through a filter
funnel before it goes in the tank. I doubt this removes any water
already in the gas, but once in a while it does catch a bit of crud
coming out of the pump.

I'm sure the bottle of gas drying additive, though, tells you how much
to drop in the tank.

When you say 'a filter funnel' do you mean one with a wire screen or
something finer?

My tank holds 100 gallons, but I'm beginning to think I may keep it at
about half full. That would mean filling it more frequently, which is a
pain in the butt, but maybe worthwhile. Another thought is that if I just
leave the tank full, and wait a while, the value of the gas may become more
than the value of the boat and I could get a good deal on it.

"JohnH" wrote in message

Does anyone here use drying additives? How often and how much do you use?

A) the whole notion of condensation in a partially full tank creating
enough water to impede operations is, in my view, a bit of a red herring (no
pun intended). Maybe from Labor day through September, when the days can be
warm and humid and the nights brisk and raw along the New England coast.
More likely, I think, to suffer water intrusion from other sources.

B) tossing a bit of drygas into the mix is not a bad idea, anyway. Those
smallish bottles available for automotive use are generally sized for
vehicle tanks of about 17-25 gallons, but that calculation also includes a
bit of over usage to keep sales up. I used to buy it by the case at
Autozone, and add a bottle whenever I put in 30-50 gallons.

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 11:25:44 -0400, "John Gaquin"
wrote:


"JohnH" wrote in message

Does anyone here use drying additives? How often and how much do you use?

A) the whole notion of condensation in a partially full tank creating
enough water to impede operations is, in my view, a bit of a red herring (no
pun intended). Maybe from Labor day through September, when the days can be
warm and humid and the nights brisk and raw along the New England coast.
More likely, I think, to suffer water intrusion from other sources.

B) tossing a bit of drygas into the mix is not a bad idea, anyway. Those
smallish bottles available for automotive use are generally sized for
vehicle tanks of about 17-25 gallons, but that calculation also includes a
bit of over usage to keep sales up. I used to buy it by the case at
Autozone, and add a bottle whenever I put in 30-50 gallons.

Sounds good to me, thanks John.

"John Gaquin" wrote in message
. ..

"JohnH" wrote in message

Does anyone here use drying additives? How often and how much do you use?

A) the whole notion of condensation in a partially full tank creating
enough water to impede operations is, in my view, a bit of a red herring
(no pun intended). Maybe from Labor day through September, when the days
can be warm and humid and the nights brisk and raw along the New England
coast. More likely, I think, to suffer water intrusion from other sources.

B) tossing a bit of drygas into the mix is not a bad idea, anyway. Those
smallish bottles available for automotive use are generally sized for
vehicle tanks of about 17-25 gallons, but that calculation also includes a
bit of over usage to keep sales up. I used to buy it by the case at
Autozone, and add a bottle whenever I put in 30-50 gallons.


Dry gas is not generally recommended for vented marine gas tanks and should
*not* be used if your engine is a 2 stroke outboard. Google up marine fuel
tanks and dry gas.

Better off installing a water separator in the fuel line and change it
regularly.

RCE

Fuel flow meters are expensive. A more economical alternative is a
simple vacuum gauge. I have one installed on Cruis'n Rulz!. Adjusting
the throttle for max vacuum at a certain speed automatically gives you
the best fuel mileage. Often times, on my boat, just a very slight
adjustment to the throttle raises the vacuum 1-2". Very accurate and
sensitive.
JR

JohnH wrote:

The current issue of Motor Boating has it's ten tips for improving fuel
economy. The first is to install a fuel flow meter. I have one, but have
not yet installed it.

Anyway, the tips are at:


http://www.motorboating.com/motorboa...198188,00.html

or: http://tinyurl.com/ol3sz

The tip on carrying only the fuel needed, plus a safety margin, is not one
I have been practicing. For some reason I've always thought a full tank is
a happy tank, with less condensation, etc, but this article suggests
treating the fuel with a drying additive. It doesn't go into detail about
how much or when.

Does anyone here use drying additives? How often and how much do you use?


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 20:33:54 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Fuel flow meters are expensive. A more economical alternative is a
simple vacuum gauge. I have one installed on Cruis'n Rulz!. Adjusting
the throttle for max vacuum at a certain speed automatically gives you
the best fuel mileage. Often times, on my boat, just a very slight
adjustment to the throttle raises the vacuum 1-2". Very accurate and
sensitive.
JR

JohnH wrote:

The current issue of Motor Boating has it's ten tips for improving fuel
economy. The first is to install a fuel flow meter. I have one, but have
not yet installed it.

Anyway, the tips are at:


http://www.motorboating.com/motorboa...198188,00.html

or: http://tinyurl.com/ol3sz

The tip on carrying only the fuel needed, plus a safety margin, is not one
I have been practicing. For some reason I've always thought a full tank is
a happy tank, with less condensation, etc, but this article suggests
treating the fuel with a drying additive. It doesn't go into detail about
how much or when.

Does anyone here use drying additives? How often and how much do you use?

I know nothing about them. Can you give me a link?

Google button broken?
JR

JohnH wrote:

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 20:33:54 -0700, JR North
wrote:


Fuel flow meters are expensive. A more economical alternative is a
simple vacuum gauge. I have one installed on Cruis'n Rulz!. Adjusting
the throttle for max vacuum at a certain speed automatically gives you
the best fuel mileage. Often times, on my boat, just a very slight
adjustment to the throttle raises the vacuum 1-2". Very accurate and
sensitive.
JR


--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 16:13:44 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Google button broken?
JR

JohnH wrote:

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 20:33:54 -0700, JR North
wrote:


Fuel flow meters are expensive. A more economical alternative is a
simple vacuum gauge. I have one installed on Cruis'n Rulz!. Adjusting
the throttle for max vacuum at a certain speed automatically gives you
the best fuel mileage. Often times, on my boat, just a very slight
adjustment to the throttle raises the vacuum 1-2". Very accurate and
sensitive.
JR


--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

No. But, I got over eight million hits when I tried vacuum gauge. I was
hoping maybe you could narrow it down some. But, that's OK.

Snippy little bugger, isn't he?
Butch
"JohnH" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 16:13:44 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Google button broken?
JR

JohnH wrote:

On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 20:33:54 -0700, JR North
wrote:


Fuel flow meters are expensive. A more economical alternative is a
simple vacuum gauge. I have one installed on Cruis'n Rulz!. Adjusting
the throttle for max vacuum at a certain speed automatically gives you
the best fuel mileage. Often times, on my boat, just a very slight
adjustment to the throttle raises the vacuum 1-2". Very accurate and
sensitive.
JR


--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

No. But, I got over eight million hits when I tried vacuum gauge. I was
hoping maybe you could narrow it down some. But, that's OK.