Thank you Rob and to the others who have replied. I'm learning by leaps.

By the way, someone asked if it's a Prestolite - don't know, no name shown
that I've seen.

While waiting for my new cap/rotor, I sprayed it with pressurized "air" from
a can because it still _looked_ damp, sprayed some oil in there (I have some
generic brand which says "penetrating and water-dispersing..." ???), waited
a while, wiped out the small amount remaining, and ran it again.

It was still horrible. I thought I would try detaching and reattaching leads
one by one from the distributor to see if any particular ones were at fault,
and it didn't make a noticeable difference running it on 7 cylinders only,
except that gradually, barely noticeably, by the time I had finished, it was
running almost normally. As if each lead connection needed air ... ???

Anyway, when the cap comes, I'm also going to install upgraded spark plugs,
new leads, and will take it from there.

I will check under the oil cap for milkiness. Don't think so. (Distributor
open to crankcase ... would not have thought of that! And why are they
designed that way ... ???)

Where would I see a spark/vent screen on the distributor mechanism? Haven't
come across it so far.

Again, thanks to all. Much appreciated.

Charles

====

Charles T. Low
www.boatdocking.com

====

"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
It seems most problems of this type I had was when the boat(inboard Ford)
was brought out of the cold, damp garage. I would run it on the
fake-a-lake on the trailer, while cleaning, prepping, & inspecting, and it
would run perfectly.

A 30 minute shutdown for a trip to the boat launch would render the engine
DOA at the ramp, the cap soaking on the underside. Dry it out, and that
was the last problem for the season aside from one points adjustment
mid-season(now eliminated with the Pertronix Ignitor).

I think the subsequent heat/cool & humidity cycles were uniform, and we
didn't get any more condensation under the cap for the season. Boat is
kept outside, full mooring cover, 4-5 days a week, & uncovered 2-3 days a
week for the summer.

I think the Chrysler Marine engines went electronic('73/'74) a year or two
after the cars did - ('72(340)/'73(remaining V-8s) - 1-2 years ahead of
Ford('74) & GM(''75)!).

Try the cap & base gasket, & check the spark/vent screen to be sure it's
clear.



Rob


====

Charles T. Low
www.boatdocking.com

====

"trainfan1" wrote in message
et...

Charles, you don't mention what you've done with the points & condenser.
I'm assuming this is the Prestolite distributor?

Do not "make" a vent as outlined in the Click & Clack article. The
distributor is the ignition-protected variety and the housing itself
should have a screen, a vent if you wish, for flame suppression.

A good, new cap, base gasket, and the electronic conversion (I use Retro
Rockets to source the Pertronix units - Sierra also has them) should take
care of the problem except in extreme situations... it worked for me.

Rob

Charles T. Low wrote:
Thank you Rob and to the others who have replied. I'm learning by leaps.

By the way, someone asked if it's a Prestolite - don't know, no name shown
that I've seen.

While waiting for my new cap/rotor, I sprayed it with pressurized "air" from
a can because it still _looked_ damp, sprayed some oil in there (I have some
generic brand which says "penetrating and water-dispersing..." ???), waited
a while, wiped out the small amount remaining, and ran it again.

It was still horrible. I thought I would try detaching and reattaching leads
one by one from the distributor to see if any particular ones were at fault,
and it didn't make a noticeable difference running it on 7 cylinders only,
except that gradually, barely noticeably, by the time I had finished, it was
running almost normally. As if each lead connection needed air ... ???

Sounds like the cap is carbon tracked. Check the plug wire continuity &
resistance, too. Swap out a known good coil - coil could be weak. On
the Chrysler ignition, I always carry a spare ballast resistor, &
ignition/amplifier module, either of which can give similar
problems(resistor usually is no start or runs while cranking only).


Anyway, when the cap comes, I'm also going to install upgraded spark plugs,
new leads, and will take it from there.

I will check under the oil cap for milkiness. Don't think so. (Distributor
open to crankcase ... would not have thought of that! And why are they
designed that way ... ???)

Where would I see a spark/vent screen on the distributor mechanism? Haven't
come across it so far.

Picture C, the round "spot", is a screen:

http://marinemechanic.com/merc/distr...-ford-dist.jpg

Rob