Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
Just to increase the odds that I'm not missing anything: I have condensation
inside my distributor cap. (This on a Chrysler 318, 1978, www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26). Needless to say, it runs poorly that way! The seal is old and brittle, and I have a new, marine cap on its way. We dried it out the other day (after which it ran well), and I'm trying to leave the engine hatch a tad open to improve ventilation (having put weather-stripping and sound-insulation under it over the past few years...), and today it's wet again. My bilges are always wet, long story, but they are. I found an article on Car Talk (http://www.cartalk.com/content/colum...ctober/06.html) about this. Strangely, last year the engine began to run very rough, but only under very specific conditions, those being all of i/ high heat, ii/ very calm days, iii/ slow speed operation (e.g. 1400 rpm, ~7 kt), and iv) 20-30 minutes underway. (If any of the conditions were absent, it didn't seem to happen.) Then, if I opened the throttle, I would get very lacklustre performance for a few minutes, then brief surges of normal operation, lasting less than a second at first, but becoming more frequent and longer-lasting over a few more minutes until the engine ran normally again. Of course, whenever I brought my mechanic down to check it out, it ran normally. This year, it is just rough, atmospheric conditions regardless. Apart from being one year older, I also neglected to leave the engine hatch slightly open over the winter lay-up. I changed the plugs, and the leads, last year without solution. Plus, if it were the leads, then why only intermittently? The fuel pump was just tested and develops good pressure (and if faulty, wouldn't behave intermittently this way?). I've checked the inline and water-separating fuel filters, and they are clean. I have had the carburetor rebuilt (and they said it was actually in pretty good shape anyway), and then re-adjusted the idle jets. The air filter is clean. Lots of people have scratched their heads over this. We didn't notice the distributor cap condensation, though, until this year, and I'm hoping that's it. But, from Car Talk, perhaps I should get a ventilated one, if such exists... Am I missing something obvious? Thanks to all in advance. Charles ==== Charles T. Low www.boatdocking.com ==== |
#2
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
"Charles T. Low" [withoutUN] wrote in message ... Just to increase the odds that I'm not missing anything: I have condensation inside my distributor cap. (This on a Chrysler 318, 1978, www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26). Needless to say, it runs poorly that way! The seal is old and brittle, and I have a new, marine cap on its way. We dried it out the other day (after which it ran well), and I'm trying to leave the engine hatch a tad open to improve ventilation (having put weather-stripping and sound-insulation under it over the past few years...), and today it's wet again. My bilges are always wet, long story, but they are. I found an article on Car Talk (http://www.cartalk.com/content/colum...ctober/06.html) about this. Strangely, last year the engine began to run very rough, but only under very specific conditions, those being all of i/ high heat, ii/ very calm days, iii/ slow speed operation (e.g. 1400 rpm, ~7 kt), and iv) 20-30 minutes underway. (If any of the conditions were absent, it didn't seem to happen.) Then, if I opened the throttle, I would get very lacklustre performance for a few minutes, then brief surges of normal operation, lasting less than a second at first, but becoming more frequent and longer-lasting over a few more minutes until the engine ran normally again. Of course, whenever I brought my mechanic down to check it out, it ran normally. This year, it is just rough, atmospheric conditions regardless. Apart from being one year older, I also neglected to leave the engine hatch slightly open over the winter lay-up. I changed the plugs, and the leads, last year without solution. Plus, if it were the leads, then why only intermittently? The fuel pump was just tested and develops good pressure (and if faulty, wouldn't behave intermittently this way?). I've checked the inline and water-separating fuel filters, and they are clean. I have had the carburetor rebuilt (and they said it was actually in pretty good shape anyway), and then re-adjusted the idle jets. The air filter is clean. Lots of people have scratched their heads over this. We didn't notice the distributor cap condensation, though, until this year, and I'm hoping that's it. But, from Car Talk, perhaps I should get a ventilated one, if such exists... Am I missing something obvious? Thanks to all in advance. Charles ==== Charles T. Low www.boatdocking.com ==== Your handy dandy can of WD-40. Lightly spray inside the distributor cap, let it air for a half hour, then re-install. RCE |
#3
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
Thank you. Does the penetrating oil dry it, or seal it, or both? How often
would it be required? ==== Charles T. Low www.boatdocking.com ==== "RCE" wrote in message ... Your handy dandy can of WD-40. Lightly spray inside the distributor cap, let it air for a half hour, then re-install. RCE |
#4
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
On Sun, 21 May 2006 08:56:42 -0400, Charles T. Low wrote:
Thank you. Does the penetrating oil dry it, or seal it, or both? How often would it be required? Careful, the WD stands for water displacement. It is not a penetrating oil, and I don't believe RCE was suggesting using a "penetrating oil". Use WD-40. |
#5
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
"Charles T. Low" [withoutUN] wrote in message ... Thank you. Does the penetrating oil dry it, or seal it, or both? How often would it be required? ==== Charles T. Low www.boatdocking.com ==== "RCE" wrote in message ... Your handy dandy can of WD-40. Lightly spray inside the distributor cap, let it air for a half hour, then re-install. RCE WD-40 is not really penetrating oil. It is non-conductive and hygroscopic. It will absorb any condensation or moisture that developed within the cap. For some reason, MoPar products of that vintage were notorious for poor resistance to wet climates. My father-in-law taught me the WD-40 trick. Don't really know how long one application would last. RCE |
#6
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
RCE wrote: "Charles T. Low" [withoutUN] wrote in message ... Thank you. Does the penetrating oil dry it, or seal it, or both? How often would it be required? ==== Charles T. Low www.boatdocking.com ==== "RCE" wrote in message ... Your handy dandy can of WD-40. Lightly spray inside the distributor cap, let it air for a half hour, then re-install. RCE WD-40 is not really penetrating oil. It is non-conductive and hygroscopic. It will absorb any condensation or moisture that developed within the cap. For some reason, MoPar products of that vintage were notorious for poor resistance to wet climates. My father-in-law taught me the WD-40 trick. Don't really know how long one application would last. RCE Bingo! I had a Plymouth Duster that ran awful in rainy whether because of condensation in the cap. |
#7
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
WD-40 stands for the "Water Displacement- 40th formula".
|
#8
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
Charles T. Low wrote:
Just to increase the odds that I'm not missing anything: I have condensation inside my distributor cap. (This on a Chrysler 318, 1978, www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26). Needless to say, it runs poorly that way! The seal is old and brittle, and I have a new, marine cap on its way. We dried it out the other day (after which it ran well), and I'm trying to leave the engine hatch a tad open to improve ventilation (having put weather-stripping and sound-insulation under it over the past few years...), and today it's wet again. My bilges are always wet, long story, but they are. I found an article on Car Talk (http://www.cartalk.com/content/colum...ctober/06.html) about this. Lots of people have scratched their heads over this. We didn't notice the distributor cap condensation, though, until this year, and I'm hoping that's it. But, from Car Talk, perhaps I should get a ventilated one, if such exists... Am I missing something obvious? Thanks to all in advance. Charles Charles, you don't mention what you've done with the points & condenser. I'm assuming this is the Prestolite distributor? Do not "make" a vent as outlined in the Click & Clack article. The distributor is the ignition-protected variety and the housing itself should have a screen, a vent if you wish, for flame suppression. A good, new cap, base gasket, and the electronic conversion (I use Retro Rockets to source the Pertronix units - Sierra also has them) should take care of the problem except in extreme situations... it worked for me. Rob |
#9
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
Thank you, Rob,
This 1978 engine, Chrysler 318 V-8, is semi-electronic. Their are no points, but there is a distributor. Does this change your advice at all? Also, from the Car Talk article, I wonder about moisture coming up from below (old worn parts ...). If so, the new cap might not solve the problem. My plan is to wait and see (and try to remember always to open the engine hatch just a hair before I leave the boat). ==== Charles T. Low www.boatdocking.com ==== "trainfan1" wrote in message et... Charles, you don't mention what you've done with the points & condenser. I'm assuming this is the Prestolite distributor? Do not "make" a vent as outlined in the Click & Clack article. The distributor is the ignition-protected variety and the housing itself should have a screen, a vent if you wish, for flame suppression. A good, new cap, base gasket, and the electronic conversion (I use Retro Rockets to source the Pertronix units - Sierra also has them) should take care of the problem except in extreme situations... it worked for me. Rob |
#10
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
distributor cap condensation
Charles T. Low wrote:
Thank you, Rob, This 1978 engine, Chrysler 318 V-8, is semi-electronic. Their are no points, but there is a distributor. Does this change your advice at all? Also, from the Car Talk article, I wonder about moisture coming up from below (old worn parts ...). If so, the new cap might not solve the problem. My plan is to wait and see (and try to remember always to open the engine hatch just a hair before I leave the boat). It seems most problems of this type I had was when the boat(inboard Ford) was brought out of the cold, damp garage. I would run it on the fake-a-lake on the trailer, while cleaning, prepping, & inspecting, and it would run perfectly. A 30 minute shutdown for a trip to the boat launch would render the engine DOA at the ramp, the cap soaking on the underside. Dry it out, and that was the last problem for the season aside from one points adjustment mid-season(now eliminated with the Pertronix Ignitor). I think the subsequent heat/cool & humidity cycles were uniform, and we didn't get any more condensation under the cap for the season. Boat is kept outside, full mooring cover, 4-5 days a week, & uncovered 2-3 days a week for the summer. I think the Chrysler Marine engines went electronic('73/'74) a year or two after the cars did - ('72(340)/'73(remaining V-8s) - 1-2 years ahead of Ford('74) & GM(''75)!). Try the cap & base gasket, & check the spark/vent screen to be sure it's clear. Rob ==== Charles T. Low www.boatdocking.com ==== "trainfan1" wrote in message et... Charles, you don't mention what you've done with the points & condenser. I'm assuming this is the Prestolite distributor? Do not "make" a vent as outlined in the Click & Clack article. The distributor is the ignition-protected variety and the housing itself should have a screen, a vent if you wish, for flame suppression. A good, new cap, base gasket, and the electronic conversion (I use Retro Rockets to source the Pertronix units - Sierra also has them) should take care of the problem except in extreme situations... it worked for me. Rob |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
HELP: Reduce Condensation under Lewmar Hatch | Cruising |