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#12
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posted to rec.boats
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Gene Kearns wrote:
On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 15:56:31 GMT, Don White wrote: Here on the salt water we only use stainless steel or aluminum backing plates. Why ask for trouble? Good advice. Also, I *really* don't recommend aluminum and steel combinations.... dissimilar metal corrosion will cause way more trouble than you want to put up with. Unless you have a way to isolate them from each other. I've used 3M4200, liquid tape, gaskets made of plastic etc to make sure the different metals don't touch each other. If you've ever drilled or cut 1/8th thick ss plate, you know why I changed to 1/4" aluminum backing plates. |
#13
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Don White" wrote in message ... Gene Kearns wrote: On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 15:56:31 GMT, Don White wrote: Here on the salt water we only use stainless steel or aluminum backing plates. Why ask for trouble? Good advice. Also, I *really* don't recommend aluminum and steel combinations.... dissimilar metal corrosion will cause way more trouble than you want to put up with. Unless you have a way to isolate them from each other. I've used 3M4200, liquid tape, gaskets made of plastic etc to make sure the different metals don't touch each other. If you've ever drilled or cut 1/8th thick ss plate, you know why I changed to 1/4" aluminum backing plates. And you want 5000 series aluminum. 5086 probably the best for most jobs where salt water is contacted. 6061 is a tougher alloy. The 5000 is very low copper content. |
#14
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On Fri, 21 Apr 2006 03:27:30 GMT, "Calif Bill" wrote: And you want 5000 series aluminum. 5086 probably the best for most jobs where salt water is contacted. 6061 is a tougher alloy. The 5000 is very low copper content. More like no copper... the major alloying element in the 5000 series being magnesium. 6061 is a tougher alloy because it can be heat treated... the 5000 series cannot. Heat treatables are 2000, 6000, and 7000 series.... Major alloy in 2000 is copper, 6000 is magnesium and silicon, and 7000 is zinc. 6000 series is acceptable in salt water service, but as you suggest, 5000 is probably a better choice if you don't need a hardened alloy.... Problem with the 6000 is not very formable. You can not bend it to make a radius bottom, without danger of it wanting to crack or crack in the future. For flat plates, is good. All Aluminum will have some copper, just part of the beast, but the alloys mentioned have very minute amounts. |
#15
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posted to rec.boats
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I started using pieces of kitchen cutting boards as backing plates. The
ones that are about a 1/2 inch thick. They cut with regular saws and will never rust. "Don White" wrote in message ... wrote: wrote: I use a stainless backing plate on anything that is boat thru, even on the cleats. I was asking why I definitely need a stainless steel backing plate if I intend to re-attach the T-top frequently. I believe you have answered my question. If I am going to re-attach the T-top very often, *the area where the bolt gets through the desk will not likely to be very water-tight, and will tend to rust the backing plate if the backing plate is not stainless steel*. Thanks for giving me the hint to figure this out. Althought I am not planning to re-attach the T-top repeatedly, I will still use a stainless steel backing plate -- This is kind of a "get it done and don't want to re-visit" kind of task. Jay Chan Say what? You don't want leaking around screws/plates. Use 3M 4200 bedding compound. |
#16
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posted to rec.boats
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I never thought about using HDPE as a backing plate, thats a great
idea. Thanks |
#17
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posted to rec.boats
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I put my wake tower on with it. I've had two large tubes with as many as 6
teenagers on them attached to the top of the tower without a problem. wrote in message ups.com... I never thought about using HDPE as a backing plate, thats a great idea. Thanks |
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