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#31
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On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 00:54:50 GMT, Dan Krueger
wrote: John Wentworth wrote: "Mys Terry" wrote in message ... The distance in this case is a pretty important factor. I don't think a 15 amp "tool" is going to be very happy on a 100 foot 12 gauge cord. You're correct. To have a not greater than 3% voltage drop, a 15 amp load on a 100 foot cable would require #8 wire. See http://www.elec-toolbox.com/calculators/voltdrop.htm for a voltage drop calculator. Contractors use 100' 12ga extension cords every day to power large saws, rotary hammer drills, and other big tools powered by their generators. 10ga or bigger would be expensive, hard to find, and not necessary. Dan Exactly correct. The calculator referenced only allows a 3% voltage drop, which is only 3.6V for a nominal 120V ac circuit. Maybe if you're running sensitive medical equipment that's necessary, but not for power tools. A 15 amp circular hand saw is perfectly "happy" running on 105V or so, over a 10% drop. Think of it this way... your home wiring is usually 14ga for normal 15 amp branch circuits. Not unusual to have a 100ft run between the breaker box and the outlets. Some voltage drop is expected, and safety factors are built into everything you buy. Jack |
#32
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![]() "Jack Goff" wrote in message ... On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 00:54:50 GMT, Dan Krueger wrote: John Wentworth wrote: "Mys Terry" wrote in message ... The distance in this case is a pretty important factor. I don't think a 15 amp "tool" is going to be very happy on a 100 foot 12 gauge cord. You're correct. To have a not greater than 3% voltage drop, a 15 amp load on a 100 foot cable would require #8 wire. See http://www.elec-toolbox.com/calculators/voltdrop.htm for a voltage drop calculator. Contractors use 100' 12ga extension cords every day to power large saws, rotary hammer drills, and other big tools powered by their generators. 10ga or bigger would be expensive, hard to find, and not necessary. Dan Exactly correct. The calculator referenced only allows a 3% voltage drop, which is only 3.6V for a nominal 120V ac circuit. Maybe if you're running sensitive medical equipment that's necessary, but not for power tools. A 15 amp circular hand saw is perfectly "happy" running on 105V or so, over a 10% drop. Think of it this way... your home wiring is usually 14ga for normal 15 amp branch circuits. Not unusual to have a 100ft run between the breaker box and the outlets. Some voltage drop is expected, and safety factors are built into everything you buy. Jack 15 amp circuits are 14 gauge, and few run 100' inside a house. More like 50' at most. Contractors use 12 gauge because you can move the cord. And most saws and tools are built to run in a 15 amp circuit, not draw 15 amps. Most are in the 7-8 amp range. |
#33
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CalifBill wrote:
15 amp circuits are 14 gauge, and few run 100' inside a house. More like 50' at most. Contractors use 12 gauge because you can move the cord. And most saws and tools are built to run in a 15 amp circuit, not draw 15 amps. Most are in the 7-8 amp range. Maybe your rinky-dink Black & Decker stuff is 7 amps.... My Makita circular saw is 13 amps... my Craftsman electric chain saw is 12 amps my Toro Electric snowthrower is 12 amps... etc... |
#34
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On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 06:41:48 GMT, "CalifBill"
wrote: "Jack Goff" wrote in message Think of it this way... your home wiring is usually 14ga for normal 15 amp branch circuits. Not unusual to have a 100ft run between the breaker box and the outlets. Some voltage drop is expected, and safety factors are built into everything you buy. Jack 15 amp circuits are 14 gauge, Yup, that's what I said. and few run 100' inside a house. More like 50' at most. Depends on the size house, and it's layout. My house is two story, with a two car garage and "day basement" under that (it's built on a sloping lot). The two breaker panels are located in the basement, so probably half of my branch circuits are well over 50 feet. Contractors use 12 gauge because you can move the cord. And most saws and tools are built to run in a 15 amp circuit, not draw 15 amps. Most are in the 7-8 amp range. These saws are called 15 amp saws because that's the maximum current they'll pull when under a heavy load. They use the least when free wheeling, and the most under load. Worst case is with the blade stalled. You're right, they'll run on a 15 amp circuit without tripping the breaker, but doing the maximum amount of work the motor is rated for, it'll pull 15 amps. However, it's rare that anyone would work one that hard. Jack |
#35
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On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 12:33:31 GMT, Don White
wrote: CalifBill wrote: 15 amp circuits are 14 gauge, and few run 100' inside a house. More like 50' at most. Contractors use 12 gauge because you can move the cord. And most saws and tools are built to run in a 15 amp circuit, not draw 15 amps. Most are in the 7-8 amp range. Maybe your rinky-dink Black & Decker stuff is 7 amps.... My Makita circular saw is 13 amps... my Craftsman electric chain saw is 12 amps my Toro Electric snowthrower is 12 amps... etc... Like my other post explains, that's the maximum current those items will daw when doing the maximum work they are rated for. Typical current will be a lot less. Basically, the current *required* by the motor varies depending on the load *placed* on the motor. ELECTRIC chainsaw?!? You girlie-man... :-) Jack |
#36
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Jack Goff wrote:
snip... ELECTRIC chainsaw?!? You girlie-man... :-) Jack Girlie-man??? I live on a 40' x 100' city lot. The trees on it are too big to tackle by myself if I used a 20" gas chainsaw. (other than a bit of pruning or cutting up firewood already on the ground). Just this week we paid $500.00 + tax to have a very large Ash tree felled on our front lawn because the wife would be on pins & needles every time the wind blew. For my use this 12amp electric chainsaw is very practical and performs well. Who's the girlie-man? |
#37
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posted to rec.boats
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On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 14:38:08 GMT, Don White
wrote: Jack Goff wrote: snip... ELECTRIC chainsaw?!? You girlie-man... :-) Jack Girlie-man??? I live on a 40' x 100' city lot. The trees on it are too big to tackle by myself if I used a 20" gas chainsaw. (other than a bit of pruning or cutting up firewood already on the ground). Just this week we paid $500.00 + tax to have a very large Ash tree felled on our front lawn because the wife would be on pins & needles every time the wind blew. For my use this 12amp electric chainsaw is very practical and performs well. Who's the girlie-man? Pay attention to the smilie-face. :-) I understand. I used to have one of those homeowner-grade Poulan gas chainsaws. I was OK for cutting up limbs and such, but had the smaller size chain and a small motor, so it just couldn't handle bigger jobs. At the time, that was OK for my situation. I'm now on 2+ acres, and it's 80% heavily wooded. The Poulan died, so I bought a real saw... a Stihl. I've paid to have a couple of large oaks taken down that were too close to the house for me to do, but the Stihl has paid for itself on a couple of other trees I could handle myself. Jack |
#38
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posted to rec.boats
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Jack Goff wrote:
On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 14:38:08 GMT, Don White wrote: Jack Goff wrote: snip... ELECTRIC chainsaw?!? You girlie-man... :-) Jack Girlie-man??? I live on a 40' x 100' city lot. The trees on it are too big to tackle by myself if I used a 20" gas chainsaw. (other than a bit of pruning or cutting up firewood already on the ground). Just this week we paid $500.00 + tax to have a very large Ash tree felled on our front lawn because the wife would be on pins & needles every time the wind blew. For my use this 12amp electric chainsaw is very practical and performs well. Who's the girlie-man? Pay attention to the smilie-face. :-) I understand. I used to have one of those homeowner-grade Poulan gas chainsaws. I was OK for cutting up limbs and such, but had the smaller size chain and a small motor, so it just couldn't handle bigger jobs. At the time, that was OK for my situation. I'm now on 2+ acres, and it's 80% heavily wooded. The Poulan died, so I bought a real saw... a Stihl. I've paid to have a couple of large oaks taken down that were too close to the house for me to do, but the Stihl has paid for itself on a couple of other trees I could handle myself. Jack I had a gas saw and used it so infrequently that the gas in the carburetor gummed it up. I then bought an electric that I could store without any concern. After the hurricanes last year I am back to a gas saw but I'll have to remember to start it every month or so. I already put Stabil in my 40:1 can as soon as I fill it. Dan |
#39
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posted to rec.boats
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CalifBill wrote:
"Jack Goff" wrote in message ... On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 00:54:50 GMT, Dan Krueger wrote: John Wentworth wrote: "Mys Terry" wrote in message m... The distance in this case is a pretty important factor. I don't think a 15 amp "tool" is going to be very happy on a 100 foot 12 gauge cord. You're correct. To have a not greater than 3% voltage drop, a 15 amp load on a 100 foot cable would require #8 wire. See http://www.elec-toolbox.com/calculators/voltdrop.htm for a voltage drop calculator. Contractors use 100' 12ga extension cords every day to power large saws, rotary hammer drills, and other big tools powered by their generators. 10ga or bigger would be expensive, hard to find, and not necessary. Dan Exactly correct. The calculator referenced only allows a 3% voltage drop, which is only 3.6V for a nominal 120V ac circuit. Maybe if you're running sensitive medical equipment that's necessary, but not for power tools. A 15 amp circular hand saw is perfectly "happy" running on 105V or so, over a 10% drop. Think of it this way... your home wiring is usually 14ga for normal 15 amp branch circuits. Not unusual to have a 100ft run between the breaker box and the outlets. Some voltage drop is expected, and safety factors are built into everything you buy. Jack 15 amp circuits are 14 gauge, and few run 100' inside a house. More like 50' at most. Contractors use 12 gauge because you can move the cord. And most saws and tools are built to run in a 15 amp circuit, not draw 15 amps. Most are in the 7-8 amp range. I think you are mistaken. 12 ga cords are heavier than 14 ga. Also, anything with an electric motor will draw more power when you start it and have it under a load than when it's running without a load. I have never seen a standard 7-1/4" circular that would start and cut while drawing only 8 amps. Most are rate at 12+ amps. Dan |
#40
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On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 00:54:50 GMT, Dan Krueger
wrote: Contractors use 100' 12ga extension cords every day to power large saws, rotary hammer drills, and other big tools powered by their generators. 10ga or bigger would be expensive, hard to find, and not necessary. I built my own 10ga extension once upon a time for doing boatyard work at a distance from outlets. I bought a 250 ft roll of 10/3 from a distributor at a half decent price, put my own connectors on it, and stored the whole thing on an inexpensive garden hose reel. Worked great, cost less than $100, everthing included. |
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