wrote in message
oups.com...

JimH wrote:
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message
...
JimH wrote:

I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra
for
the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are
familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did
you
expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy?


Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others.

Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie?

What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an
honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what
you
expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the
features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches,
which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on
topic discussion.

As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot
from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question.

Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should
pay the $10 as cheap insurance.

My post was really not a personal thing at all.


--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the
switch)
"Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing.

http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect

http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect

A bit confusing.

Good point.
With either switch you should stop the engine (actually the alternator)
before turning the switch to "off". That's a different proposition than
switching from Bank A to Bank B. It only takes a second to damage you
alternator if it's generating power and there is nowhere for the power
to go.

You can still combine or isolate banks with two individual switches,
but you have to throw them in an exact sequence (far more complex than
a make before break switch) in order to assure that you don't
disconnect your batteries entirely from a running alternator. For
example, if you are charging bank A and you want to charge bank B, you
*must* turn on bank B before you turn off bank A. Ignorance of or
inattention to this detail could easily cost you a $200 alternator.

Switching from one bank to another while the engine is running would
require *two* "A/B only" switches, thereby eliminating the perceived
savings of $10.


Have you ever dealt with ProMariner battery switches?

http://tinyurl.com/krkkl

I can save the $10 and still get field disconnect.

JimH wrote:



Have you ever dealt with ProMariner battery switches?

http://tinyurl.com/krkkl

I can save the $10 and still get field disconnect.

I lean toward Perko from years of successful operation, or toward Blue
Sea from what I know about their products in general. ProMariner may be
fine as well, but I would have to admit that I have a personal
prejudice toward that trademark as I once owned a ProMariner battery
charger that cooked the living stink out of some batteries.

If I were going to buy a new swtich today, my choice might be:

http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?P...58&l1=7458&l2=

Blue Sea also has a new design, the E-Series, and that switch won some
sort of award for innovation in 2005. Might also be worth a look.

They also offer a "field disconnect" model, (or you can install a "Zap
Stop", and that doesn't require any wiring except on the back of the
alternator itself).