"Ed" wrote in message
.. .
I thought he was talking about the switch with the alternator disconnect on
it. (requires 2 wires run to the alternator that disconnects the field
when put in the off position)

If he is just talking about the make before break then HELL YES... spend
the $10.




wrote:
Ed wrote:

It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one....

JimH wrote:

I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?




What extra wires?

The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You
have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option
"All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by
the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries
connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs
is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the
other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe
an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with
two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When
battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is
positioned so that one of the
two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated
with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the
pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs
overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete
the circuit.

There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the
alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get
to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the
connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the
first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the
switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been
sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty.

JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat
part, can you?
Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead
will find it and
switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your
permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of
accidental carelessness). Have you priced
replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively
cheap. :-)

The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both
batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice
is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one
time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each
bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically
encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's
Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like
most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for
differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned
arguments to support diverse conclusions.

Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for
less.




Both are make before break design Ed.

" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth
it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with
engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link

http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7

brian c
m/v canwegonow

Brian Cleveland wrote:
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth
it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with
engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link

http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7

brian c
m/v canwegonow


See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field
Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about
the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and
$15 in wire being worth doing.

The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the
"pacemaker"for that heart.
If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go
cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles
in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop
the boat from running.

wrote in message
ups.com...

Brian Cleveland wrote:
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be
worth
it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with
engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link

http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7

brian c
m/v canwegonow


See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field
Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about
the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and
$15 in wire being worth doing.

The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the
"pacemaker"for that heart.
If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go
cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles
in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop
the boat from running.


The switches I was originally choosing between were both manufactured by the
same company and were identical in every way except for the field disconnect
feature on the more expensive one. I was not about to go "cheap" or "2nd
class" Chuck. ;-)

JimH wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

Brian Cleveland wrote:
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be
worth
it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with
engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link

http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7

brian c
m/v canwegonow


See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field
Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about
the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and
$15 in wire being worth doing.

The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the
"pacemaker"for that heart.
If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go
cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles
in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop
the boat from running.


The switches I was originally choosing between were both manufactured by the
same company and were identical in every way except for the field disconnect
feature on the more expensive one. I was not about to go "cheap" or "2nd
class" Chuck. ;-)

Belt *and* suspenders is very good policy aboard a boat.

One of the abstract things that I believe boaters find appealing is the
very self-contained and self-reliant environment we assume the
responsibility to create and/or manage as we make choices about
equipment and policies aboard our boats and as we make decisions
underway. We are more disconnected from the "system" aboard a boat than
almost anywhere else in our lives, unless we backpack up into the
mountains someplace (and I have this negative attitude about walking
mile after mile up very steep trails with a 70-pound pack on my back).
We risk our financial fortunes, our vacation or weekend happiness, and
once in a while maybe even our lives with the choices we make about and
aboard our boats.

My policy is to go for the best available stuff whenever safety or
mechanical reliability is an issue, but I often choose less than
top-of-the-line for stereos or other toys that aren't critical
to reliability or safety.

wrote:
JimH wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
Brian Cleveland wrote:
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be
worth
it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with
engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link

http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7

brian c
m/v canwegonow

See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field
Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about
the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and
$15 in wire being worth doing.

The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the
"pacemaker"for that heart.
If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go
cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles
in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop
the boat from running.

The switches I was originally choosing between were both manufactured by the
same company and were identical in every way except for the field disconnect
feature on the more expensive one. I was not about to go "cheap" or "2nd
class" Chuck. ;-)

Belt *and* suspenders is very good policy aboard a boat.

One of the abstract things that I believe boaters find appealing is the
very self-contained and self-reliant environment we assume the
responsibility to create and/or manage as we make choices about
equipment and policies aboard our boats and as we make decisions
underway. We are more disconnected from the "system" aboard a boat than
almost anywhere else in our lives, unless we backpack up into the
mountains someplace (and I have this negative attitude about walking
mile after mile up very steep trails with a 70-pound pack on my back).
We risk our financial fortunes, our vacation or weekend happiness, and
once in a while maybe even our lives with the choices we make about and
aboard our boats.

My policy is to go for the best available stuff whenever safety or
mechanical reliability is an issue, but I often choose less than
top-of-the-line for stereos or other toys that aren't critical
to reliability or safety.

Chuck,
Have you figured out how to post pictures of your boat as it is being
rebuilt?

--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

"Brian Cleveland" wrote in message
...

" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be
worth
it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with
engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link

http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7

brian c
m/v canwegonow


Thank you Brian. Great link.

JimH wrote:
"Brian Cleveland" wrote in message
...
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be
worth
it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with
engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link

http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7

brian c
m/v canwegonow


Thank you Brian. Great link.


For some reason, I could not download pdf file. Did they say it was
necessary to have a separate regulator to prevent frying the alternator?

--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message
...
JimH wrote:
"Brian Cleveland" wrote in message
...
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message
. ..
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.

Is the field disconnect one (such as this one
http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn )
always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field
disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery
while
under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will
not
be
out in the open for anyone to fool with.

So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one?


The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be
worth
it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off
with
engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link

http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7

brian c
m/v canwegonow


Thank you Brian. Great link.


For some reason, I could not download pdf file. Did they say it was
necessary to have a separate regulator to prevent frying the alternator?

--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

The way I read the info [i don't claim to understand everything i know about
this ] the field disconnect will work on all alternators except the
single wire ones. It shows how to wire a remote regulator as well as the
kind that are"unitized" [built in regulator with 3 wire hookup]

I'm going to have to go take my pergo 1,2,both switch apart now to see which
kind it is.

brian c
m/v canwegonow

On Mon, 3 Apr 2006 18:03:58 -0500, "Brian Cleveland"
wrote:

I'm going to have to go take my pergo 1,2,both switch apart now to see which
kind it is.

You don't have to take it apart. If there are three (and only three)
large terminals on the back it is a conventional "off-one-both-two"
switch. If there are additional terminals on the back, generally
smaller, it probably has the field disconnect feature.