|
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote:
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. That probably is the reason why I thought you had to stop the engine before changing batteries. Chuck's response (if correct, and it probably is) says this is not normally necessary, unless the contact points have become oxidized, which is probably more of a problem in salt water. My guess is Perko placed that on the "make/break" $39 switch for legal reasons. They do not want to pay for a new electrical system if the switch has become oxidized. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message . .. JimH wrote: "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. That probably is the reason why I thought you had to stop the engine before changing batteries. Chuck's response (if correct, and it probably is) says this is not normally necessary, unless the contact points have become oxidized, which is probably more of a problem in salt water. My guess is Perko placed that on the "make/break" $39 switch for legal reasons. They do not want to pay for a new electrical system if the switch has become oxidized. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." But the cheaper switch does not say "Stop engines before moving switch", only "before switching *off*". So can it in fact be switched to either battery or to both while the engine is running? |
A/B Battery Switch
"Ed" wrote in message .. . I thought he was talking about the switch with the alternator disconnect on it. (requires 2 wires run to the alternator that disconnects the field when put in the off position) If he is just talking about the make before break then HELL YES... spend the $10. wrote: Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. Both are make before break design Ed. |
A/B Battery Switch
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote: "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. Good point. With either switch you should stop the engine (actually the alternator) before turning the switch to "off". That's a different proposition than switching from Bank A to Bank B. It only takes a second to damage you alternator if it's generating power and there is nowhere for the power to go. You can still combine or isolate banks with two individual switches, but you have to throw them in an exact sequence (far more complex than a make before break switch) in order to assure that you don't disconnect your batteries entirely from a running alternator. For example, if you are charging bank A and you want to charge bank B, you *must* turn on bank B before you turn off bank A. Ignorance of or inattention to this detail could easily cost you a $200 alternator. Switching from one bank to another while the engine is running would require *two* "A/B only" switches, thereby eliminating the perceived savings of $10. |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote: Are you sure about no extra wiring needed with the "field disconnect" $39 switch? Thanks! If my aging memory serves me well; You connect a cable from the positive terminal of each battery to one of the contacts on the switch. It would be hard to imagine any less wiring that would still get the job done. :-) BTW: I am not a tightwad. I just am not in the habit of wasting money. Same with me. In my case, I believe that buying parts that are less than what I need or that won't hold up adequately is probably the biggest waste of all. |
A/B Battery Switch
wrote in message oups.com... JimH wrote: "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. Good point. With either switch you should stop the engine (actually the alternator) before turning the switch to "off". That's a different proposition than switching from Bank A to Bank B. It only takes a second to damage you alternator if it's generating power and there is nowhere for the power to go. You can still combine or isolate banks with two individual switches, but you have to throw them in an exact sequence (far more complex than a make before break switch) in order to assure that you don't disconnect your batteries entirely from a running alternator. For example, if you are charging bank A and you want to charge bank B, you *must* turn on bank B before you turn off bank A. Ignorance of or inattention to this detail could easily cost you a $200 alternator. Switching from one bank to another while the engine is running would require *two* "A/B only" switches, thereby eliminating the perceived savings of $10. Have you ever dealt with ProMariner battery switches? http://tinyurl.com/krkkl I can save the $10 and still get field disconnect. |
A/B Battery Switch
Brian Cleveland wrote: " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and $15 in wire being worth doing. The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the "pacemaker"for that heart. If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop the boat from running. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:30 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com