| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
A/B Battery Switch
I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch.
Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? |
A/B Battery Switch
It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the
regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? |
A/B Battery Switch
Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. |
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message . .. wrote: Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. Chuck, When I read JimH post, I couldn't believe JimH was really worried about the $10, but was interested in starting an on topic discussion about the A/B switch. No, I was actually wondering if I should spend the extra $10. I am not in the habit of throwing money away. |
A/B Battery Switch
wrote in message oups.com... Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. Thanks Chuck. But the one for $29 has a "both" position http://tinyurl.com/lath7 and both batteries can be charged with it also. So the only thing I would be gaining with the $39 switch is the field disconnect. As the switch is going to located under near the engine and the only way to access it will be to open the engine hatch, I still don't see the advantage of the more expensive switch. Are you sure about no extra wiring needed with the "field disconnect" $39 switch? Thanks! BTW: I am not a tightwad. I just am not in the habit of wasting money. |
A/B Battery Switch
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. wrote in message oups.com... Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. Thanks Chuck. But the one for $29 has a "both" position http://tinyurl.com/lath7 and both batteries can be charged with it also. So the only thing I would be gaining with the $39 switch is the field disconnect. As the switch is going to located near the engine and under the engine hatch and the only way to access it will be to open the engine hatch, I still don't see the advantage of the more expensive switch. Are you sure about no extra wiring needed with the "field disconnect" $39 switch? Thanks! BTW: I am not a tightwad. I just am not in the habit of wasting money. Doh.........edit. |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote:
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message . .. wrote: Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. Chuck, When I read JimH post, I couldn't believe JimH was really worried about the $10, but was interested in starting an on topic discussion about the A/B switch. No, I was actually wondering if I should spend the extra $10. I am not in the habit of throwing money away. I would spend the extra $10 as the cheapest insurance policy you will ever buy. I would assume your kids will probably borrow the boat some, or you will request someone to go into the bilge to do some work and they throw the switch, or as you get older and have some senior moments you just might have a brain fart and throw the switch. I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message . .. wrote: Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. Chuck, When I read JimH post, I couldn't believe JimH was really worried about the $10, but was interested in starting an on topic discussion about the A/B switch. No, I was actually wondering if I should spend the extra $10. I am not in the habit of throwing money away. I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote:
I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote:
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. That probably is the reason why I thought you had to stop the engine before changing batteries. Chuck's response (if correct, and it probably is) says this is not normally necessary, unless the contact points have become oxidized, which is probably more of a problem in salt water. My guess is Perko placed that on the "make/break" $39 switch for legal reasons. They do not want to pay for a new electrical system if the switch has become oxidized. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message . .. JimH wrote: "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. That probably is the reason why I thought you had to stop the engine before changing batteries. Chuck's response (if correct, and it probably is) says this is not normally necessary, unless the contact points have become oxidized, which is probably more of a problem in salt water. My guess is Perko placed that on the "make/break" $39 switch for legal reasons. They do not want to pay for a new electrical system if the switch has become oxidized. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." But the cheaper switch does not say "Stop engines before moving switch", only "before switching *off*". So can it in fact be switched to either battery or to both while the engine is running? |
A/B Battery Switch
I thought he was talking about the switch with the alternator disconnect
on it. (requires 2 wires run to the alternator that disconnects the field when put in the off position) If he is just talking about the make before break then HELL YES... spend the $10. wrote: Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. |
A/B Battery Switch
"Ed" wrote in message .. . I thought he was talking about the switch with the alternator disconnect on it. (requires 2 wires run to the alternator that disconnects the field when put in the off position) If he is just talking about the make before break then HELL YES... spend the $10. wrote: Ed wrote: It's not the $10. it's the pain of runing the extra wires. Go for the regular one.... JimH wrote: I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? What extra wires? The switch in JimH's tiny url is just a make before break switch. You have only the normal battery connections to deal with. The third option "All", or "Both" is created not by wiring an additional circuit, but by the architecture of the switch itself. The cables from the batteries connect to arc shaped contact plates within the switch. One of the arcs is closer to the perimeter of the circular shape of the switch than the other, and these inner and outer arcs overlap a common radius for maybe an inch or so. Under the top cover there is a straight "pointer" with two contact that runs parallel to the external handle/indicator. When battery "A" or "B" is selected by the indicator, the pointer is positioned so that one of the two contacts completes a circuit with only the contact plate associated with battery/bank "A" or battery/bank "B". When "Both" is selected, the pointer is positioned on the radius where the inner and outer arcs overlap and both of the contacts on the pointer are engaged to complete the circuit. There is very little risk of removing the battery load from the alternator when the engine is running with a switch like this. To get to either A or B you must pass through "Both" with the selector, so the connection to the second battery is "made" before the conection to the first is "broken". (Make before break). It is useful to exercise the switch a time or two before relying upon it if the boat has been sitting long enough that the contact surfaces might have become dirty. JimH: You can't possibly be thinking of trying to save $10 on a boat part, can you? Unless you put your battery switch under lock and key, some dunderhead will find it and switch from A or B to "off" while you're underway (with or without your permission- or the dunderhead might even be you in a moment of accidental carelessness). Have you priced replacing the diodes in your alternator? That $10 is comparatively cheap. :-) The value of the switch in your URL is that it is easy to charge both batteries at once when running. You will find cases where this practice is discouraged, (I think I saw a marine supply company catalog at one time that suggested it was better to buy two switches, one for each bank, than a single A/B/Both switch). The pratice is also specifically encouraged by experts such as Charlie Wing, author of "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook," now in its second edition. Just like most other things related to boating, there is plenty of room for differences of opinion on this topic and no shortage of well-reasoned arguments to support diverse conclusions. Spend the $10. You can hardly buy a six-pack of any decent beer for less. Both are make before break design Ed. |
A/B Battery Switch
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote: "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. Good point. With either switch you should stop the engine (actually the alternator) before turning the switch to "off". That's a different proposition than switching from Bank A to Bank B. It only takes a second to damage you alternator if it's generating power and there is nowhere for the power to go. You can still combine or isolate banks with two individual switches, but you have to throw them in an exact sequence (far more complex than a make before break switch) in order to assure that you don't disconnect your batteries entirely from a running alternator. For example, if you are charging bank A and you want to charge bank B, you *must* turn on bank B before you turn off bank A. Ignorance of or inattention to this detail could easily cost you a $200 alternator. Switching from one bank to another while the engine is running would require *two* "A/B only" switches, thereby eliminating the perceived savings of $10. |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote: Are you sure about no extra wiring needed with the "field disconnect" $39 switch? Thanks! If my aging memory serves me well; You connect a cable from the positive terminal of each battery to one of the contacts on the switch. It would be hard to imagine any less wiring that would still get the job done. :-) BTW: I am not a tightwad. I just am not in the habit of wasting money. Same with me. In my case, I believe that buying parts that are less than what I need or that won't hold up adequately is probably the biggest waste of all. |
A/B Battery Switch
wrote in message oups.com... JimH wrote: "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: I am curious since you don't believe you need to spend the $10 extra for the better switch for all the reason you have listed, and you are familiar with the benefits and features of both switches, what did you expect to learn from asking rec.boats what switch to buy? Why are you curious? I was just asking for the opinions of others. Why are you turning this into a personal thing Reggie? What makes you think this is a personal thing? It was meant to be an honest question. I figure I am missing something obvious as to what you expected to learn. You do seem to be very well informed about the features and benefits, and possible dangers of the two Perko switches, which is why I thought you post was a legitimate post to encourage on topic discussion. As I mentioned in my response to Chuck's post, I know I did learn a lot from his explanation, and was glad you asked the question. Since you said you wanted to know what others think, I think you should pay the $10 as cheap insurance. My post was really not a personal thing at all. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." If you notice on the picture, the cheaper $29 switch states (on the switch) "Stop engines before switching off". The $39 switch says the same thing. http://tinyurl.com/lath7 $29 switch without field disconnect http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn $39 switch with field disconnect A bit confusing. Good point. With either switch you should stop the engine (actually the alternator) before turning the switch to "off". That's a different proposition than switching from Bank A to Bank B. It only takes a second to damage you alternator if it's generating power and there is nowhere for the power to go. You can still combine or isolate banks with two individual switches, but you have to throw them in an exact sequence (far more complex than a make before break switch) in order to assure that you don't disconnect your batteries entirely from a running alternator. For example, if you are charging bank A and you want to charge bank B, you *must* turn on bank B before you turn off bank A. Ignorance of or inattention to this detail could easily cost you a $200 alternator. Switching from one bank to another while the engine is running would require *two* "A/B only" switches, thereby eliminating the perceived savings of $10. Have you ever dealt with ProMariner battery switches? http://tinyurl.com/krkkl I can save the $10 and still get field disconnect. |
A/B Battery Switch
Brian Cleveland wrote: " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and $15 in wire being worth doing. The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the "pacemaker"for that heart. If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop the boat from running. |
A/B Battery Switch
wrote in message ups.com... Brian Cleveland wrote: " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and $15 in wire being worth doing. The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the "pacemaker"for that heart. If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop the boat from running. The switches I was originally choosing between were both manufactured by the same company and were identical in every way except for the field disconnect feature on the more expensive one. I was not about to go "cheap" or "2nd class" Chuck. ;-) |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote: Have you ever dealt with ProMariner battery switches? http://tinyurl.com/krkkl I can save the $10 and still get field disconnect. I lean toward Perko from years of successful operation, or toward Blue Sea from what I know about their products in general. ProMariner may be fine as well, but I would have to admit that I have a personal prejudice toward that trademark as I once owned a ProMariner battery charger that cooked the living stink out of some batteries. If I were going to buy a new swtich today, my choice might be: http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?P...58&l1=7458&l2= Blue Sea also has a new design, the E-Series, and that switch won some sort of award for innovation in 2005. Might also be worth a look. They also offer a "field disconnect" model, (or you can install a "Zap Stop", and that doesn't require any wiring except on the back of the alternator itself). |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote: wrote in message ups.com... Brian Cleveland wrote: " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and $15 in wire being worth doing. The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the "pacemaker"for that heart. If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop the boat from running. The switches I was originally choosing between were both manufactured by the same company and were identical in every way except for the field disconnect feature on the more expensive one. I was not about to go "cheap" or "2nd class" Chuck. ;-) Belt *and* suspenders is very good policy aboard a boat. One of the abstract things that I believe boaters find appealing is the very self-contained and self-reliant environment we assume the responsibility to create and/or manage as we make choices about equipment and policies aboard our boats and as we make decisions underway. We are more disconnected from the "system" aboard a boat than almost anywhere else in our lives, unless we backpack up into the mountains someplace (and I have this negative attitude about walking mile after mile up very steep trails with a 70-pound pack on my back). We risk our financial fortunes, our vacation or weekend happiness, and once in a while maybe even our lives with the choices we make about and aboard our boats. My policy is to go for the best available stuff whenever safety or mechanical reliability is an issue, but I often choose less than top-of-the-line for stereos or other toys that aren't critical to reliability or safety. |
A/B Battery Switch
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? Thanks for the good discussion folks. You convinced me to buy the one with the field disconnect. ;-) |
A/B Battery Switch
wrote:
JimH wrote: wrote in message ups.com... Brian Cleveland wrote: " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow See there? Something new under the sun all the time. This "Field Disconnect" feature is a recent introduction, AFAIK. Ed was right about the couple of extra wires, and you're right about the 15 minutes and $15 in wire being worth doing. The heart of a pwerboat is the engine, and the batteries are the "pacemaker"for that heart. If a guy wants to go second class on something, (IMO), the place to go cheap is the galley stove, the number of superflous bells and whistles in the electro-nav system, or some other area that isn't going to stop the boat from running. The switches I was originally choosing between were both manufactured by the same company and were identical in every way except for the field disconnect feature on the more expensive one. I was not about to go "cheap" or "2nd class" Chuck. ;-) Belt *and* suspenders is very good policy aboard a boat. One of the abstract things that I believe boaters find appealing is the very self-contained and self-reliant environment we assume the responsibility to create and/or manage as we make choices about equipment and policies aboard our boats and as we make decisions underway. We are more disconnected from the "system" aboard a boat than almost anywhere else in our lives, unless we backpack up into the mountains someplace (and I have this negative attitude about walking mile after mile up very steep trails with a 70-pound pack on my back). We risk our financial fortunes, our vacation or weekend happiness, and once in a while maybe even our lives with the choices we make about and aboard our boats. My policy is to go for the best available stuff whenever safety or mechanical reliability is an issue, but I often choose less than top-of-the-line for stereos or other toys that aren't critical to reliability or safety. Chuck, Have you figured out how to post pictures of your boat as it is being rebuilt? -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
" JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? Thanks for the good discussion folks. You convinced me to buy the one with the field disconnect. ;-) Make sure your alternator has an external regulator. Otherwise you will be wasting your money. Jim |
A/B Battery Switch
"JIMinFL" wrote in message ink.net... " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? Thanks for the good discussion folks. You convinced me to buy the one with the field disconnect. ;-) Make sure your alternator has an external regulator. Otherwise you will be wasting your money. Jim It is already ordered. I guess I can always trade it in for the one without field disconnect if I do not have an external regulator on my alternator. Thanks for the heads up. I should have waited for more feedback before making the purchase. Note to Reggie: Do you see now why I asked for a discussion of this? A couple of folks, including me, have learned some new things about these switches that were not known before. ;-) |
A/B Battery Switch
Note to Reggie: Do you see now why I asked for a discussion of this? A couple of folks, including me, have learned some new things about these switches that were not known before. ;-) JimH, I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... Note to Reggie: Do you see now why I asked for a discussion of this? A couple of folks, including me, have learned some new things about these switches that were not known before. ;-) JimH, I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." Whatever. |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote:
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... Note to Reggie: Do you see now why I asked for a discussion of this? A couple of folks, including me, have learned some new things about these switches that were not known before. ;-) JimH, I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." Whatever. You did ask for our opinions didn't you? I gave you my opinion. The reason I did is how do you know who gave you the correct advice, was it Chuck, who didn't say the separate regulator was necessary or was it JiminFl who gave you the correct advice when he said the more expensive one was useless if you didn't have a separate regulator. If we wait a few more days, I am sure we will have many more experts give conflicting recommendations. How do you decide what advice to follow? So, for this reason, I gave you my advice of contacting Perko. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
Reggie Smithers wrote:
JimH wrote: "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... Note to Reggie: Do you see now why I asked for a discussion of this? A couple of folks, including me, have learned some new things about these switches that were not known before. ;-) JimH, I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." Whatever. You did ask for our opinions didn't you? I gave you my opinion. The reason I did is how do you know who gave you the correct advice, was it Chuck, who didn't say the separate regulator was necessary or was it JiminFl who gave you the correct advice when he said the more expensive one was useless if you didn't have a separate regulator. If we wait a few more days, I am sure we will have many more experts give conflicting recommendations. How do you decide what advice to follow? So, for this reason, I gave you my advice of contacting Perko. By the way, do you really know for certain if you do or do not have a separate regulator? -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
"Brian Cleveland" wrote in message ... " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow Thank you Brian. Great link. |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote:
"Brian Cleveland" wrote in message ... " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow Thank you Brian. Great link. For some reason, I could not download pdf file. Did they say it was necessary to have a separate regulator to prevent frying the alternator? -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. When JIMinFL was JIMinMA, those of us with gas I/O boats with mechanical or electrical problems were like the people in the old investment firm commercials (Smith Barney?) where, when Jim spoke, everybody listened. He knows his stuff. RCE |
A/B Battery Switch
"RCE" wrote in message ... "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. When JIMinFL was JIMinMA, those of us with gas I/O boats with mechanical or electrical problems were like the people in the old investment firm commercials (Smith Barney?) where, when Jim spoke, everybody listened. He knows his stuff. RCE (blush) Smuthers needs to be heard on every subject. Let's see what his research turns up. |
A/B Battery Switch
"RCE" wrote in message ... "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. When JIMinFL was JIMinMA, those of us with gas I/O boats with mechanical or electrical problems were like the people in the old investment firm commercials (Smith Barney?) where, when Jim spoke, everybody listened. He knows his stuff. RCE As does the Chuckster. I think I received some good advice in this thread and I thank the contributors. |
A/B Battery Switch
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... JimH wrote: "Brian Cleveland" wrote in message ... " JimH" jimh_osudad@yahooDOT comREMOVETHIS wrote in message . .. I am putting in a 2nd battery on my boat and will need an A/B switch. Is the field disconnect one (such as this one http://tinyurl.com/pa9hn ) always the way to go, or is the one that is $10 cheaper but lack field disconnect a better option? I do not switch to the other battery while under power.....never have and do not plan to now. The switch will not be out in the open for anyone to fool with. So save the $10 bucks or get the higher priced one? The Field Disconnect does require 2 extra wires but would probably be worth it to keep from frying the alternator by accidently switching to off with engine running. Scroll down to page 11 in following link http://tinyurl.com/8ffe7 brian c m/v canwegonow Thank you Brian. Great link. For some reason, I could not download pdf file. Did they say it was necessary to have a separate regulator to prevent frying the alternator? -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." The way I read the info [i don't claim to understand everything i know about this :) ] the field disconnect will work on all alternators except the single wire ones. It shows how to wire a remote regulator as well as the kind that are"unitized" [built in regulator with 3 wire hookup] I'm going to have to go take my pergo 1,2,both switch apart now to see which kind it is. brian c m/v canwegonow |
A/B Battery Switch
On Mon, 3 Apr 2006 18:03:58 -0500, "Brian Cleveland"
wrote: I'm going to have to go take my pergo 1,2,both switch apart now to see which kind it is. You don't have to take it apart. If there are three (and only three) large terminals on the back it is a conventional "off-one-both-two" switch. If there are additional terminals on the back, generally smaller, it probably has the field disconnect feature. |
A/B Battery Switch
RCE wrote:
"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. When JIMinFL was JIMinMA, those of us with gas I/O boats with mechanical or electrical problems were like the people in the old investment firm commercials (Smith Barney?) where, when Jim spoke, everybody listened. He knows his stuff. RCE Richard, I am sure he does, but when someone asks a question, and receives two knowledgeable people give in depth responses, how does one decide whose advice to follow? -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
A/B Battery Switch
JimH wrote:
"RCE" wrote in message ... "Reggie Smithers" wrote in message ... I said the exact same thing after Chuck's post and was the reason I thought you asked the question. Now if this was my Perko switch and my boat, I would never use JiminFla post or even Chuck's post as the gospel. I have seen too many incorrect advice given in rec.boats to follow any of the recommendations. At this point, I would contact Perko directly and get their recommendations and ask them if JiminTampa observations is correct. When JIMinFL was JIMinMA, those of us with gas I/O boats with mechanical or electrical problems were like the people in the old investment firm commercials (Smith Barney?) where, when Jim spoke, everybody listened. He knows his stuff. RCE As does the Chuckster. I think I received some good advice in this thread and I thank the contributors. Do you have a separate regulator?, because if I understood JiminFl correctly, he would recommend you spend the extra $10. -- Reggie "That's my story and I am sticking to it." |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:41 AM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com