I recently brought my boat and Mercury 60-hp 4-stroke outboard back to the
dealer for a factory recall of a defective voltage regulator. Mercury picked
up the tab for the parts and 6-8 hours labor for the recall.

I requested an oil and filter change, and a change of the gearlube, while it
was at the shop. When I picked up my boat I was given a bill for $179.90 for
the oil and gearlube change; $32 in parts and $127.50 (1.5 hours) in labor.
I do most of the routine maintenance on this motor so didn't expect to pay
$180 for such a simple job. Was this bill out of line, or am I just out of
step with the current reality?

When I questioned the bill, the service manager reduced the amount by $50.

What are you folks paying for this type of work?

BTW: With the bill I received a note from Mercury Marine stating they would
be sending me a survey asking about my service experience. I wonder if
that's the reason for the $50 cut?

wrote:
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 16:24:45 -0500, "John Wentworth"
wrote:

I recently brought my boat and Mercury 60-hp 4-stroke outboard back to the
dealer for a factory recall of a defective voltage regulator. Mercury picked
up the tab for the parts and 6-8 hours labor for the recall.

I requested an oil and filter change, and a change of the gearlube, while it
was at the shop. When I picked up my boat I was given a bill for $179.90 for
the oil and gearlube change; $32 in parts and $127.50 (1.5 hours) in labor.
I do most of the routine maintenance on this motor so didn't expect to pay
$180 for such a simple job. Was this bill out of line, or am I just out of
step with the current reality?

When I questioned the bill, the service manager reduced the amount by $50.

What are you folks paying for this type of work?

BTW: With the bill I received a note from Mercury Marine stating they would
be sending me a survey asking about my service experience. I wonder if
that's the reason for the $50 cut?



I had a similar experience when I took my 60 in for the free regulator
(mine was really bad). I went for a foot oil change and an impeller,
closer to $300. I think that is just the price you pay to have a
dealer acknowlege your warranty. I figure this motor will have close
to 2000 hours when the warranty expires.


The last time I paid someone to winterize my boat it was approximately
$225. An outrageous price considering it really is fairly simple to fog
the engine, drain the engine of water, change the oil and replace the
outdrive oil.

--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

John Wentworth writes:

Was this bill out of line, or am I just out of
step with the current reality?

If you don't get a quote beforehand, this is what happens. Now you know to
ask.

I once ate in a restaurant that had no prices on the menu. First and last
time I did that.

"Shortwave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 16:24:45 -0500, "John Wentworth"
wrote:

I requested an oil and filter change, and a change of the gearlube, while
it
was at the shop. When I picked up my boat I was given a bill for $179.90
for
the oil and gearlube change; $32 in parts and $127.50 (1.5 hours) in
labor.
I do most of the routine maintenance on this motor so didn't expect to pay
$180 for such a simple job. Was this bill out of line, or am I just out of
step with the current reality?



Most places have a labor flat rate for oil changes and one for grearcase
service and lubrication of 1 hour and 1/2 hour respectively. You will find
these average charges for labor all over the country.

Just think of the time that is required to do an oil change on a boat,
compared to what a "jiffy lube" does. First the mechanic gets in the truck
or tractor and hooks up the boat and moves it near the shop. He (or she)
then uncovers the boat and hooks up water or backs it into a test tank to
run the motor and warm up the oil, about 10-20 minutes is usually needed
just for that. The boat is then moved into the shop where the oil is
changed, the hot filter removed carefully to not spill any oil in the boat,
and a new filter installed. Prior to this the mechanic has to look up and go
to the parts dept. for the needed items. The motor is filled with oil and
the old oil has to be taken to an EPA approved container area for later
disposal, and the filter drained. The lower unit is then drained, refilled,
and the grease fittings are lubed.

The boat is again hooked up and taken outside to be run a second time to
check for leaks, and a good mechanic also does a visual inspection of the
rig and a quick check of shifting, idling, and general engine condition. The
oil level is again checked, topped off, and the boat is cleaned up to remove
any footprints, fingerprints, spilled fluids, etc. The boatcover is
re-installed and the boat has to be moved to the pickup area. The mechanic
goes back to the shop, fills out the bill, calls the customer, and takes the
work order up to the "office".

When you add up the steps required, the time averages out to about an hour
for most boats with normal engine access. Don't forget that many stern
drives and inboards need panels removed and/or acrobatic contortions just to
access an oil filter.

Around a boat, there is no such thing as a "10 minute job"!

Bill Grannis
service manager

"Billgran" wrote in message
. ..
When you add up the steps required, the time averages out to about an hour
for most boats with normal engine access. Don't forget that many stern
drives and inboards need panels removed and/or acrobatic contortions just
to access an oil filter.


My boat is a 16' fishing boat with an outboard motor. The entire job takes
less than an hour; I've done it many times. It appears you are saying that
the dealers apply the 1.5 hour flat rate to all boats; if that's so then the
owners of outboard-powered boats are getting hosed. Everything you said does
apply to larger I/O and inboard boats, but for most small fishing boats the
canvas doesn't even need to come off.

Just another example of the poor subsidizing the rich . ;-)

Billgran wrote:
"Shortwave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 16:24:45 -0500, "John Wentworth"
wrote:

I requested an oil and filter change, and a change of the gearlube, while
it
was at the shop. When I picked up my boat I was given a bill for $179.90
for
the oil and gearlube change; $32 in parts and $127.50 (1.5 hours) in
labor.
I do most of the routine maintenance on this motor so didn't expect to pay
$180 for such a simple job. Was this bill out of line, or am I just out of
step with the current reality?


Most places have a labor flat rate for oil changes and one for grearcase
service and lubrication of 1 hour and 1/2 hour respectively. You will find
these average charges for labor all over the country.

Just think of the time that is required to do an oil change on a boat,
compared to what a "jiffy lube" does. First the mechanic gets in the truck
or tractor and hooks up the boat and moves it near the shop. He (or she)
then uncovers the boat and hooks up water or backs it into a test tank to
run the motor and warm up the oil, about 10-20 minutes is usually needed
just for that. The boat is then moved into the shop where the oil is
changed, the hot filter removed carefully to not spill any oil in the boat,
and a new filter installed. Prior to this the mechanic has to look up and go
to the parts dept. for the needed items. The motor is filled with oil and
the old oil has to be taken to an EPA approved container area for later
disposal, and the filter drained. The lower unit is then drained, refilled,
and the grease fittings are lubed.

The boat is again hooked up and taken outside to be run a second time to
check for leaks, and a good mechanic also does a visual inspection of the
rig and a quick check of shifting, idling, and general engine condition. The
oil level is again checked, topped off, and the boat is cleaned up to remove
any footprints, fingerprints, spilled fluids, etc. The boatcover is
re-installed and the boat has to be moved to the pickup area. The mechanic
goes back to the shop, fills out the bill, calls the customer, and takes the
work order up to the "office".

When you add up the steps required, the time averages out to about an hour
for most boats with normal engine access. Don't forget that many stern
drives and inboards need panels removed and/or acrobatic contortions just to
access an oil filter.

Around a boat, there is no such thing as a "10 minute job"!

Bill Grannis
service manager


Bill,
I probably spend more than an hour (maybe 2) doing a oil change because
of adding the fuel stabilizer, heating the engine, fogging the engine,
letting the oil drain to the pan, using a drill to remove the oil from
the dip stick, cleaning up after I spill the oil removing the oil filter
(I always spill some) engine inspection, torquing bolts, cleaning the
flame arrestor etc. They are all jobs that are at my skill level and I
actually enjoy the tinkering.

If I replace the impeller, that will take another 30 min.

--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

John Wentworth wrote:
"Billgran" wrote in message
. ..
When you add up the steps required, the time averages out to about an hour
for most boats with normal engine access. Don't forget that many stern
drives and inboards need panels removed and/or acrobatic contortions just
to access an oil filter.


My boat is a 16' fishing boat with an outboard motor. The entire job takes
less than an hour; I've done it many times. It appears you are saying that
the dealers apply the 1.5 hour flat rate to all boats; if that's so then the
owners of outboard-powered boats are getting hosed. Everything you said does
apply to larger I/O and inboard boats, but for most small fishing boats the
canvas doesn't even need to come off.

Just another example of the poor subsidizing the rich . ;-)


That is probably the reason he lowered your price.

--
Reggie

"That's my story and I am sticking to it."

"Reggie Smithers" wrote in message
...

Bill,
I probably spend more than an hour (maybe 2) doing a oil change because of
adding the fuel stabilizer, heating the engine, fogging the engine,
letting the oil drain to the pan, using a drill to remove the oil from the
dip stick, cleaning up after I spill the oil removing the oil filter (I
always spill some) engine inspection, torquing bolts, cleaning the flame
arrestor etc. They are all jobs that are at my skill level and I actually
enjoy the tinkering.

If I replace the impeller, that will take another 30 min.

--
Reggie



That's the nice thing if you have the time, the skill, and the tools to do
your own work. You save a lot of money that way and do not have to wait a
couple of weeks during the busy season to have routine service done on your
boat. I help out folks the best I can if they want to do their own work, and
caution them on what not to do.

Bill Grannis
service manager