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Doug Kanter
 
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Default Dumb question about a small trailer repair..


wrote in message
oups.com...
Excellent. Thanks!


By the way, the site says that with those glides, you don't have to get your
trailer in the water. Yeah. Sure. It's at least a one foot drop from the
bunks to the water. Maybe....just maybe it would be OK to drop your boat
that way, but getting it back up again would be ridiculous.

Here's something to spend money on, though - waterproof LED trailer lights.
Uses LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs, which are a royal pain in the ass.

Here's a link to some:
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....tegoryID=28 2


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Default Dumb question about a small trailer repair..

Ok. Well, I think I'm going to replace the bunks since getting the
rusted brackets out of them is going to be a nightmare. What size bunks
should I get, considering it's a 12ft. Jon Boat?

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Doug Kanter
 
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Default Dumb question about a small trailer repair..


wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok. Well, I think I'm going to replace the bunks since getting the
rusted brackets out of them is going to be a nightmare. What size bunks
should I get, considering it's a 12ft. Jon Boat?


I really don't know if there's a formula. The dealer chose the trailer for
my boat, and set up the roller position. With the boat in place, the bunks
are even with the transom. At the front, they end about a foot forward of
where the hull begins to curve upward. If I were you, I'd add the new
brackets, install wood pieces that are obviously longer than you need, load
the boat, and eyeball the situation. You want the bunks to extend further
back than any metal trailer structure that the boat might hit during loading
& unloading. But, they shouldn't be so far back that they stick out after
the boat's loaded. You'll be trailering with the motor in the down position,
so be aware of that. Once you've got the size figured out, cut the wood down
to size, wrap in carpet, and reinstall.


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