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#1
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... Excellent. Thanks! By the way, the site says that with those glides, you don't have to get your trailer in the water. Yeah. Sure. It's at least a one foot drop from the bunks to the water. Maybe....just maybe it would be OK to drop your boat that way, but getting it back up again would be ridiculous. Here's something to spend money on, though - waterproof LED trailer lights. Uses LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs, which are a royal pain in the ass. Here's a link to some: http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....tegoryID=28 2 |
#2
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posted to rec.boats
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Ok. Well, I think I'm going to replace the bunks since getting the
rusted brackets out of them is going to be a nightmare. What size bunks should I get, considering it's a 12ft. Jon Boat? |
#3
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... Ok. Well, I think I'm going to replace the bunks since getting the rusted brackets out of them is going to be a nightmare. What size bunks should I get, considering it's a 12ft. Jon Boat? I really don't know if there's a formula. The dealer chose the trailer for my boat, and set up the roller position. With the boat in place, the bunks are even with the transom. At the front, they end about a foot forward of where the hull begins to curve upward. If I were you, I'd add the new brackets, install wood pieces that are obviously longer than you need, load the boat, and eyeball the situation. You want the bunks to extend further back than any metal trailer structure that the boat might hit during loading & unloading. But, they shouldn't be so far back that they stick out after the boat's loaded. You'll be trailering with the motor in the down position, so be aware of that. Once you've got the size figured out, cut the wood down to size, wrap in carpet, and reinstall. |
#4
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