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Eisboch
 
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Default Winterizing an outboard

I just thought of something as I read with dismay that the temps are going
to drop like a lead ball tonight and tomorrow ....

When I recovered my Scout from the Florida storage place in early December,
I ran it in the yard with muffs, then blew air through the fresh water rinse
adaptor on the Yamaha engine. I had the leg pretty much down all the way
and continued blowing low pressure air until no water came out of the
telltale, the prop exhaust or the intakes at the bottom of the leg. This
is basically what I used to do with a previous 2 stroke engine (Merc) that I
had. It probably is not necessary since I recall that water in the head
will drain out anyway, as long as you have the leg down.

Then, I got busy with the house closing, etc. etc. and hooked the boat &
trailer up to the truck and towed it back here to MA.

It just dawned on me that the Yamaha is a 4 stoke, not a 2 stroke. I am
hoping like hell that it does not retain water somewhere in the head that
can't naturally drain or be blown out using low pressure air.

Anybody know?

Eisboch






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Eisboch
 
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Default Winterizing an outboard


"Shortwave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...

id just drop it tonight and let it drain, then put it back up and wrap
some plastic about the prop hub to keep water out.


I suppose if any damage were to occur, it already has anyway. I left the
leg down, almost vertical when I parked it for the winter. Never had a
chance to fog it or even cover it though. I jacked and blocked the front of
the trailer way up so the rain and snow runs out the drains. I think it
will make it ok.

For Commodore Joe:

Good advice, I think, regarding the air pressure. I used a 12 volt
(cigarette lighter plug type) little air compressor to blow the water out.
Very little pressure.

Eisboch


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Eisboch
 
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Default Winterizing an outboard


"Shortwave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 19:33:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:


i couldn't get the ranger covered on time this year what with
everything going on, so i just did the same as you - jacked up the
front so it would drain.

then it froze.

the drains.

oh well...


Been there, done that before. Won't hurt a thing.

Eisboch


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JohnH
 
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Default Winterizing an outboard

On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 19:08:11 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:

I just thought of something as I read with dismay that the temps are going
to drop like a lead ball tonight and tomorrow ....

When I recovered my Scout from the Florida storage place in early December,
I ran it in the yard with muffs, then blew air through the fresh water rinse
adaptor on the Yamaha engine. I had the leg pretty much down all the way
and continued blowing low pressure air until no water came out of the
telltale, the prop exhaust or the intakes at the bottom of the leg. This
is basically what I used to do with a previous 2 stroke engine (Merc) that I
had. It probably is not necessary since I recall that water in the head
will drain out anyway, as long as you have the leg down.

Then, I got busy with the house closing, etc. etc. and hooked the boat &
trailer up to the truck and towed it back here to MA.

It just dawned on me that the Yamaha is a 4 stoke, not a 2 stroke. I am
hoping like hell that it does not retain water somewhere in the head that
can't naturally drain or be blown out using low pressure air.

Anybody know?

Eisboch


Doesn't the book say something about winterizing? Harry should be able to
help, I think he's got a Yamaha on the Parker.
--
John H

******Have a spectacular day!******
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Eisboch
 
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Default Winterizing an outboard


"JohnH" wrote in message
...


Doesn't the book say something about winterizing? Harry should be able to
help, I think he's got a Yamaha on the Parker.
--
John H



Book? What book? You mean this thing actually came with a "book"?

Eisboch




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Eisboch
 
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Default Winterizing an outboard


"Harry Krause" wrote in message
...


There's not much to "winterizing" a four stroke outboard.

My dealer performs a list of services at season's end, some of which
prevent damage and premature aging to the engine, and others just part of
normal maintenance.

Among the tasks I consider important:

1. Running the engine in a test tank under load and checking how it runs
and the computer "print-outs." Putting Sta-bil in the fuel supply.

2. Greasing the fittings.

3. Changing the oil and filter.

4. Changing lower unit lube. Greasing prop shaft.

5. Putting in the "old" set of plugs (I keep them in a baggie)
and running and fogging the engine.

6. Washing the engine and touching up the lower unit paint.

7. Making sure the engine is drained of any water.

8. Remove, clean, charge and store the batteries.



Thanks. I am just wondering how number 7 is accomplished.

Eisboch


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FREDO
 
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Default Winterizing an outboard

I am sure Skippy will tell you all about his "RIP & DIP Winterization. At
least I think that's what he was calling it.
"Eisboch" wrote in message
...
I just thought of something as I read with dismay that the temps are going
to drop like a lead ball tonight and tomorrow ....

When I recovered my Scout from the Florida storage place in early
December, I ran it in the yard with muffs, then blew air through the fresh
water rinse adaptor on the Yamaha engine. I had the leg pretty much down
all the way and continued blowing low pressure air until no water came out
of the telltale, the prop exhaust or the intakes at the bottom of the
leg. This is basically what I used to do with a previous 2 stroke engine
(Merc) that I had. It probably is not necessary since I recall that water
in the head will drain out anyway, as long as you have the leg down.

Then, I got busy with the house closing, etc. etc. and hooked the boat &
trailer up to the truck and towed it back here to MA.

It just dawned on me that the Yamaha is a 4 stoke, not a 2 stroke. I am
hoping like hell that it does not retain water somewhere in the head that
can't naturally drain or be blown out using low pressure air.

Anybody know?

Eisboch








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markvictor
 
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Default Winterizing an outboard

Just make sure no rainwater or melting snow can get in aaound your
prop, so it doesn't get in to the propshaft housing and potentially
freeze and crack it...if it's down you should be ok

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