wrote in message
ups.com...

ran007 wrote:
Sounds appealing - when winterizing, will fogging the engine be
necessary? Last thing I want is a stuck carburator...

Fogging does nothing for the carb.


What's it for?

ran007 wrote:
Sounds appealing - when winterizing, will fogging the engine be
necessary? Last thing I want is a stuck carburator...

I read that some do spray the fogging oil into the carb while the engine
is running.
I only spray into the cylinders and replace the plugs finger tight. I'm
hoping that running the motor dry with stabilized gas will take care of
the carb.

So it's reasonable to say that I should winterize it?

ran007 wrote:

So it's reasonable to say that I should winterize it?

Yes. Google up 'Winterizing Checkist' to see what's involved. Suggest
you let the dealer do it for starters and ask to see the process when
they do your boat.

--
Skipper

"ran007" wrote in message
oups.com...
So it's reasonable to say that I should winterize it?


Considering that it cost what....maybe fifteen bucks for the various
supplies, why not? It'll keep you out of your wife's way while she cleans
the kitchen, and then you can tromp back in full of oil and mess it up
again. Here's a good link:

http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/winter/default.asp

In my opinion, putting Stabil in the fuel is a good idea then run the engine
on the earmuffs long enough to get the fuel circulated into all parts of the
system. I'd also check the lower unit oil to be certain it is at the right
level and has not got any water in it. Monofilament fishing line around a
prop shaft is death to the seals. A frozen and cracked lower unit is an
very expensive replacement item.

My only concern about storage in a warm garage is the threat of a power
failure, and the resulting damage if the outage last very long. I live
rural and we are the last to get power restored, it has been out for over 2
weeks at a spell.

Obviously fogging the engine is just added protection but unless there is a
VERY humid environment, over the winter should be of no concern.

From the "For what it's worth Dept"!

Don Dando




"ran007" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey guys, I recently bought a fun little Sea Ray 180 with the i/o Merc
130 - I only put about 5 hours on it so far. I've got a question about
winterizing. Would you suppose it would be better to take it to the
Merc dealer and have them stabilize the fuel, fog the engine, drain the
block, etc... or could I just pull it out of the garage every two
weeks, crank it up and let it run for 5 or 10 minutes out of the water?

And if it's better to run it every other week or so, what's the best
method to keeping the engine cooled? Direct connection, or the ear
muffs? I have the earmuffs. I put them on turned on the hose and ran
it yesterday for about 10 minutes. Seemed to run fine, but the temp
guage would sit at around 180 degrees.

I'm not scared to do it myself, but I just trying to find good advice
on the best way to run it out of the water, if I can and if it won't
damage the boat. I mean, will the water damage the motor if the engine
isn't on? Am I asking too many questions in one post?

Thanks for all of your help in advance!!

I put Stabil in the fuel, and ran the boat for about 5 minutes at
around 1300 RPM - at then it started to perform worse at idle. Was it
because of the Stabil in the fuel that caused the motor to sound worse
at idle?

Stabil doesnt usually cause the engine to run worse. It just
smells a bit odd. Are you able to cut the fuel off to the engine?
If so close the valve and run it till the carbs empty themselves of
fuel.
(near the end hold the choke, that will empty them out)

Fogging the engine is a good measure, cant hurt. Really its a good
thing for long term storage. A few months in a garage??? It could be
optional.

After that's done, change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, you can
spray the engine
down with a corrosion preventer spray. See if your boat has a
water/fuel seperator.
Check that out too.

Dont forget to drain that block, frozen water is not your friend.
Using a marine type of antifreeze might be an idea since some
water will be left behind in the block.

Change the lower unit fluid with fresh stuff. Make sure the old
stuff didnt come out looking like thick coffee. It could mean water
mixing in a bit. No good there. In any case drain and replace.
There are a few more things to lube up on an I/O like the gimbal
bearing etc. It wouldnt be a bad idea to grease any fittings
and cables with marine grease.

Oh well, just some thoughts....

Tom

Tom, if I decide to pull it out of the garage every couple of weeks and
run it for 5,10 minutes, will I still need to go through the winterize
motion?

"ran007" wrote in message
oups.com...
Tom, if I decide to pull it out of the garage every couple of weeks and
run it for 5,10 minutes, will I still need to go through the winterize
motion?


I don't mean to be rude or anything, but changing the oil and the lower unit
fluid would've taken about as long as all the typing you've done so far, and
the supplies cost less than two cases of beer. Just do it already. Winter or
not, the motor needs these things changed periodically.