... If you are buying a BMT combo that could be a concern,
particularly if you plan on it being a trailer boat.

What's BMT combo? And why does BMT cause problem if we submerge the
trailer of a BMT combo in sal****er when we launch the boat?

Dunking the hubs means you have to be dilligent in your
bearing maintenance.

Does this mean these:
- Wait in the parking lot for a while to cool down the ball bearing
before proceeding to the ramp.
- Use something like Bearing Buddy and pump grease into the
greaser cap of the ball bearing periodically to keep the interior
of the bearing assembly under pressure to prevent water from
getting into bearing assembly.
- Degrease and re-pack the ball bearing every year as a part
of winterizing procedure.
- Anything else that I am missing?

Thanks.

Jay Chan

wrote:
... If you are buying a BMT combo that could be a concern,
particularly if you plan on it being a trailer boat.


What's BMT combo? And why does BMT cause problem if we submerge the
trailer of a BMT combo in sal****er when we launch the boat?


Dunking the hubs means you have to be dilligent in your
bearing maintenance.


Does this mean these:
- Wait in the parking lot for a while to cool down the ball bearing
before proceeding to the ramp.
- Use something like Bearing Buddy and pump grease into the
greaser cap of the ball bearing periodically to keep the interior
of the bearing assembly under pressure to prevent water from
getting into bearing assembly.
- Degrease and re-pack the ball bearing every year as a part
of winterizing procedure.
- Anything else that I am missing?

Thanks.

Jay Chan

I've heard people advise not to overgrease the Buddy Bearings. Think it
could blow a seal....but maybe someone more experienced can advise.

Here's an excellent article on boat trailer wheel bearing maintenance:

http://www.pugetsoundanglers.org/Fis...ler_brakes.htm

On 10 Nov 2005 19:05:14 -0800, "Tim" wrote:

Here's an excellent article on boat trailer wheel bearing maintenance:

http://www.pugetsoundanglers.org/Fis...ler_brakes.htm

Thanks, Tim. That *is* a good site.

--
John H.

"Divide each difficulty into as many parts as is feasible and necessary to resolve it."
Rene Descartes

On 10 Nov 2005 19:05:14 -0800, "Tim" wrote:

Here's an excellent article on boat trailer wheel bearing maintenance:

http://www.pugetsoundanglers.org/Fis...ler_brakes.htm

Tim - that's a great site but there are a couple of procedures that
concern me. During inspection, clean the cups and cones thoroughly and
inspect each roller while rotating it in the cage. If any roller shows
any sign of cracking or flaking then replace the bearings. Look at the
raceway and see if there is any flaking or dents. If so, replace the
bearings. Most bearings will show signs of fatigue or contamination
long before failing and a thorough inspection may allow you to replace
the bearings in a location that is far better than the side of the
road. Installing the race (or cup) with a hammer and punch can be
disastrous unless done very carefully (gently). It's best to use an
arbor that fits the race initially (piece of pipe, socket etc. or a
block of hard plastic or wood (careful of debris) to start rather than
strike the cup directly. Once flush you probably need to use a punch
as few of us have anything that will fit properly but the punch should
be a softer material (hard plastic, aluminum, brass) if possible.
Gentle is the key word here - lightly tap and move around the OD to
keep the cup square and not in a bind. When tightening the nut you
should rotate the hub full rotations in both directions as you tighten
to insure the rollers are aligned - not to seat the race which should
already be seated. Tapered rollers have a tendency to skew until
properly seated and rotating while tightening will help prevent this.
Also, bearing supply houses can be helpful in locating bearings and
seals and may be more economical. Finally, his comment on bearings
made in China is right on. There is some decent stuff coming out of
China but there is a lot of junk. None of it is on a par with Bower or
Timken so is it worth the risk? It makes me sick to walk into a
trailer supply house and see a barrel of bearings piled in with no
protective packaging. Talk about junk - bearings are most likely
brinelled before you ever install them.

Point well made, Tom.

especially about wheel bearing replacement.

And you're both right about using cheap "generic" bearings. It's hard
to go wrong with Timken, Lufkin, Bower, or NDH. national makes a great
seal too!

You notice that the trailer mfj.s don't use "no-name" bearings and
seals from the beginning. there's a reason for that. No one else should
either.

From what I've seen,t he "imported" bearings don't have the right steel
hardness in the bearing or race core, and the chromium plating
sometimes isn't as good either.

Also the cost difference betweden the good stuff and the cheap stuff is
pennies to small dollars.

no need to short change yourself.

You notice that the trailer mfj.s don't use "no-name" bearings and
seals from the beginning. there's a reason for that. No one else should
either.

Unfortunately many do. Big Tex and Lufkin Industries have both
switched to Chinese as have many others. My trailer is a McClain and
it came with General (Chinese). It scares the dickens out of me to
think of all the trailers running down the road at 70 mph on junk
bearings.