Thanks to Google I found the following 3 quotes and I am wondering if they
still hold true.

Does the neutral-forward-back 3X "kickstart" the oil pump and prime the
entire system? Is this procedure (more or less) equal to pulling the plugs
and fogging the cylinders individually. From what I can gather the oil is
pumped from the external tank (in the boat) to the "reserve" tank (under the
hood) and once the "reserve" is full a small amount (+-3 ounces) is pumped
into the cylinders.

As for the 3 quote, regarding the ECU getting stuck in break-in mode, from
the post date I would assume that a 2004 175 should not have this problem?

Are there any Optimax forums out there?

TIA,

Bert

---

After filling the oil tank, close it tightly. Turn your ignition key on.
Wait
for the beep. Do not start the motor. Shift from neutral to forward and back
to
neutral three times. This "kickstarts" the oil pump for the external tank.
After
you do this, you will get a different sounding beep...this indicates the oil
pump is primed.

then

The priming procedure that Harry described, primes the oil injection system
and that is surely already done because your engine is still running. But
that is mandatory for the first time start up on a new installation or after
some types of repairs.

And finally

There is a known problem with the smaller 135's and 150's where the CPU gets
stuck in break in mode doubling the oil consumption. There is a fix and
service bulletin for the problem. This MAY apply to the larger horsepower
motors as well. Is "BWI" the Boston Whaler forum or some other group?
BillS..

B wrote:
Thanks to Google I found the following 3 quotes and I am wondering if they
still hold true.

Does the neutral-forward-back 3X "kickstart" the oil pump and prime the
entire system? Is this procedure (more or less) equal to pulling the plugs
and fogging the cylinders individually. From what I can gather the oil is
pumped from the external tank (in the boat) to the "reserve" tank (under the
hood) and once the "reserve" is full a small amount (+-3 ounces) is pumped
into the cylinders.

Yes it will prime the oil pump and pump oil into the bearings. By the
way your dealer can prime the oil pump WITHOUT the motor getting in
break in mode as above procedure will.

It is NOT equal to winterizing and you MUST NOT use fogging oil in this
motor, no matter what uninformed people say. It WILL get in the
injectors and could seize them.

I wrote a lengthy article on the 200HP JetDrive which uses the exact
same powerhead. Read this, its long but talks about winterizing:

http://www.harbercraft.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=4833

The Jet and OB winterizes the same. I have seen winterizing
instructions for the 3.0l OB which on top of what i describe asks for a
teaspoon of oil put in the cylinders then turn the flywheel, with NO
plugs. That must be reversed BEFORE the motor is started again.

The plugs should be accessible on the OB so its no issue. So read the
above article to learn about your motor and winterizing it.


As for the 3 quote, regarding the ECU getting stuck in break-in mode, from
the post date I would assume that a 2004 175 should not have this problem?

No, it will be fine, if you like you can have a merc dealer check if
its out of break in. You can tell by the oil use. On average it should
use 40:1. I also have some oil use info on the above article/


Are there any Optimax forums out there?

Not that I know of.
After filling the oil tank, close it tightly. Turn your ignition key on.
Wait
for the beep. Do not start the motor. Shift from neutral to forward and back
to
neutral three times. This "kickstarts" the oil pump for the external tank.
After
you do this, you will get a different sounding beep...this indicates the oil
pump is primed.

True but thats not to winterize the motor ... a load of oil in the
crankcase wont help over the winter....


then

The priming procedure that Harry described, primes the oil injection system
and that is surely already done because your engine is still running. But
that is mandatory for the first time start up on a new installation or after
some types of repairs.

Yes correct and must be done if the oil system was bled.


And finally

There is a known problem with the smaller 135's and 150's where the CPU gets
stuck in break in mode doubling the oil consumption. There is a fix and
service bulletin for the problem. This MAY apply to the larger horsepower
motors as well. Is "BWI" the Boston Whaler forum or some other group?
BillS..

Yes that used to be an issue and should be corrected.... (see above).

Matt

B wrote:
Thanks to Google I found the following 3 quotes and I am wondering if they
still hold true.

Does the neutral-forward-back 3X "kickstart" the oil pump and prime the
entire system? Is this procedure (more or less) equal to pulling the plugs
and fogging the cylinders individually. From what I can gather the oil is
pumped from the external tank (in the boat) to the "reserve" tank (under the
hood) and once the "reserve" is full a small amount (+-3 ounces) is pumped
into the cylinders.

Yes it will prime the oil pump and pump oil into the bearings. By the
way your dealer can prime the oil pump WITHOUT the motor getting in
break in mode as above procedure will.

It is NOT equal to winterizing and you MUST NOT use fogging oil in this
motor, no matter what uninformed people say. It WILL get in the
injectors and could seize them.

I wrote a lengthy article on the 200HP JetDrive which uses the exact
same powerhead. Read this, its long but talks about winterizing:

http://www.harbercraft.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=4833

The Jet and OB winterizes the same. I have seen winterizing
instructions for the 3.0l OB which on top of what i describe asks for a
teaspoon of oil put in the cylinders then turn the flywheel, with NO
plugs. That must be reversed BEFORE the motor is started again.

The plugs should be accessible on the OB so its no issue. So read the
above article to learn about your motor and winterizing it.


As for the 3 quote, regarding the ECU getting stuck in break-in mode, from
the post date I would assume that a 2004 175 should not have this problem?

No, it will be fine, if you like you can have a merc dealer check if
its out of break in. You can tell by the oil use. On average it should
use 40:1. I also have some oil use info on the above article/


Are there any Optimax forums out there?

Not that I know of.
After filling the oil tank, close it tightly. Turn your ignition key on.
Wait
for the beep. Do not start the motor. Shift from neutral to forward and back
to
neutral three times. This "kickstarts" the oil pump for the external tank.
After
you do this, you will get a different sounding beep...this indicates the oil
pump is primed.

True but thats not to winterize the motor ... a load of oil in the
crankcase wont help over the winter....


then

The priming procedure that Harry described, primes the oil injection system
and that is surely already done because your engine is still running. But
that is mandatory for the first time start up on a new installation or after
some types of repairs.

Yes correct and must be done if the oil system was bled.


And finally

There is a known problem with the smaller 135's and 150's where the CPU gets
stuck in break in mode doubling the oil consumption. There is a fix and
service bulletin for the problem. This MAY apply to the larger horsepower
motors as well. Is "BWI" the Boston Whaler forum or some other group?
BillS..

Yes that used to be an issue and should be corrected.... (see above).

Matt

No, it will be fine, if you like you can have a merc dealer check if
its out of break in. You can tell by the oil use. On average it should
use 40:1. I also have some oil use info on the above article/

Must say 50-65:1