"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...


Brian,

I haven't seen any of these innumerable notes of which you write...

But thanks...sounds like a good idea. I can build a little
holder for the trandsducer that will have it set still in the hull. If
it works someplace - Great. If not, I can always install it
through the hull later.

Any other tips (or links to info) on how to make this work?

Manufacturers make "pucks" into which transducers can be
placed, but that is generally for "through the hull" installations -
not sure if it would work for a wood boat - through the hull
that is. My guess is not if only because of the varying density
of the wood.

After that one contribution, I'm at a loss. The experience I
have with hull style transducers are for much larger vessels
(by a couple of hundred feet) that we generally talk about
here.

Later,

Tom

Thanks Tom,

I think my plan at the moment is:

A) Take my nylon mount-in/through-the-hull transducer and put
it in some kind of block of wood to see if there is any place
it will work. It very well may NOT work because of space between
it and the inside of the hull and/or because it won't work through
the ply wood.

B) If the above does not work I think I''m going to install the
nylon mount-in/through-the-hull and mount is through the hull.
I will leave a little extra space for the wood to expand (not
much).

Thanks,
Gary

Gary,
I'd be very cautious about epoxy/fiberglassing the stem/transducer in place.
If, for whatever reason it EVER 'goes South' you WILL have a BIG job {and
possibly HOLE} on your hands getting it out. Better to 'bed' it properly and
inspect it frequently.

On another point - WHENEVER you have a penetration of the hull - get a wood
PLUG that can be driven into the hole and/or fixture. {they come in sets, or
make your own out of Pine or Cedar - a relatively soft wood that WILL SWELL
when wet}. Wire or tie the proper size to the thru-hull and have a
short-handled, stout hammer aboard. If this is the only thru-hull, have it
tied there, as well.

If this sounds strange, check almost ANY book on off-shore sailing & SAFETY
ISSUES.

Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

SNIP
I will - whether via glass or other method - make sure the transducer is
in there VERY solidly. I do know that I don't want it coming out and
leaving me with water pouring in.

Gary

Why not mount it on a bracket off the transom under the waterline?

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

Thanks Tom,

I think my plan at the moment is:

A) Take my nylon mount-in/through-the-hull transducer and put
it in some kind of block of wood to see if there is any place
it will work. It very well may NOT work because of space between
it and the inside of the hull and/or because it won't work through
the ply wood.

B) If the above does not work I think I''m going to install the
nylon mount-in/through-the-hull and mount is through the hull.
I will leave a little extra space for the wood to expand (not
much).

Thanks,
Gary

On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 13:25:54 -0400, "Gary Warner"
wrote:



Brian,

I haven't seen any of these innumerable notes of which you write...

But thanks...sounds like a good idea. I can build a little
holder for the trandsducer that will have it set still in the hull. If
it works someplace - Great. If not, I can always install it
through the hull later.

Any other tips (or links to info) on how to make this work?

Gary


People have described their tests like this:
1) with a water balloon, place the balloon on the hull, and the
transducer on the balloon.
Can you read the floor at a reasonable depth?
2) Using a dam of putty etc.inside the hull, , pour a little mineral
oil into the dam, and place the transducer level in the oil.
Test for depth reading etc.
3) Using a blob of RTV silicone on the hull, place the transducer in
it etc., etc.

These are not difficult, destructive or time consuming tests.
You MIGHT find some wood hull section that transmits the signal
sufficiently well. People have shot through composite hulls. Wood is
composite!
You have lost a few dollars if not.

Brian W

Gary,

The nylon transducer works fine but I find any applications that use
it to "shoot thru the hull" is not nearly as accurate as one suspended
off the rear of the reansom. After about 60ft of water depth you lose
alot of the bottom profile. There is a reason why the pro's use the
bronze thru hull with the fairing block but it isn't necessary with
transom mount being the next best thing.One other note,If you do use
the thru hull fairing block install, it has to be enough to the
outside and forward enough to not cause cavitation of the outboard.