I got a boat at auction on Saturday. It's my first boat, other than
the pirogue and bolger brick I built a couple of summers ago.

It's a 16' Fiberglass boat - make is "Larson" vintage 1968, came with
a dual axel galvanized trailer and 60HP Johnson Outboard. My total
cost = $120.00

She towed home pretty easily, but I'm trying to figure out more about
the engine. It was supposedly last run 2 years ago before the former
owner got sick and passed away. Any idea where to start checking it
out?

The engine is a Johnson 60 HP "Hydro-Electric" but I can't find a
model number. It turns by hand fine now that I figured out I had to
put it in neutral. Any idea what the oil/gas mixture should be, or
where I might be able to find a model number so I can get a water-hose
connection thing and test the engine?

Also, the hull surface in a few exposed areas shows some "cracking" of
the surface paint. It doesn't go more than 1/32" - 1/16" deep (just
the paint, the surface below looks and feels solid)

What's the best method to prep and refinish that surface so it looks
nicer?

Any help is appreciated.

Tillman

tillius wrote:
I got a boat at auction on Saturday. It's my first boat, other than
the pirogue and bolger brick I built a couple of summers ago.

It's a 16' Fiberglass boat - make is "Larson" vintage 1968, came with
a dual axel galvanized trailer and 60HP Johnson Outboard. My total
cost = $120.00

She towed home pretty easily, but I'm trying to figure out more about
the engine. It was supposedly last run 2 years ago before the former
owner got sick and passed away. Any idea where to start checking it
out?

The engine is a Johnson 60 HP "Hydro-Electric" but I can't find a
model number.

It is a 60ES70, 60ESL70, 60ES71, or 60ESL71, 1970 or 1971 engine - look
on the tilt bracket for a plate with this model number and the serial
number, it should also be on a small round aluminum "plug" pressed into
the engine block.


It turns by hand fine now that I figured out I had to
put it in neutral.

Hydro-Electric engines are in forward when there is no battery hooked up
- current is required for neutral or reverse. Use type C gear oil, fill
to the top plug from the bottom before running...



Any idea what the oil/gas mixture should be,

50:1 gas to TCW-2 or TCW-3 2 cycle oil... this is one pint to a six
gallon fuel tank.


or
where I might be able to find a model number so I can get a water-hose
connection thing and test the engine?

Any flush muffs will work.


Also, the hull surface in a few exposed areas shows some "cracking" of
the surface paint. It doesn't go more than 1/32" - 1/16" deep (just
the paint, the surface below looks and feels solid)

Sounds like crazing in the gel coat - not much you can do here...

What's the best method to prep and refinish that surface so it looks
nicer?

WOW it's a lot of work for an old boat... get it to run right & then
decide what to do...


Rob

"tillius" wrote in message
om...

My total cost = $120.00


He hehe.


I wish you well. Dumping money & time into an old
boat can be really rewarding. Just don't look for it
in your wallet.

Couple more questions:


1. Any idea what those plugs look like where I'm supposed to lube up the lower unit?


2. How long should the motor run before I see water pumping out?


Thanks

tillius wrote:
Couple more questions:


1. Any idea what those plugs look like where I'm supposed to lube up the lower unit?


2. How long should the motor run before I see water pumping out?


Thanks


Check this out:


http://www.nissanmarine.com/tech_talk/oil_change.html

Yours is very similar.

Rob