An account of our recent visit to Old Boat Goat's home port:

Ladysmith Harbour


We usually cruise with a loose, general plan, prepared to revise and
adapt the itinerary as wind and other considerations suggest. In the
summer of 2005, a combination of our own poor timing and high flows
through Dodd Narrows posed two alternatives. We could choose to face a
25-knot headwind running around Gabriola Island and then take the same
4-foot seas on the starboard beam while making for Nanaimo. Or, we
could "add" a stopover somewhere between Thetis Island and Dodd Narrows
and make a short, properly timed run through Dodd the following day. We
elected to layover in Ladysmith Harbour.

Ladysmith Harbour is home to a number of active sawmills. Some are
enormous facilities operated by international conglomerates churning
out millions of board feet of lumber per year. Others are small,
scrappy, family-run operations- often producing only cedar siding,
fence posts, or other specialized items. The logging industry must be
thriving in British Columbia, as there were log rafts anchored on both
sides of the channel. The diameter of the timber harvested here seems
much larger than the skinny poles we have come to accept as "mature
trees" from the wood lots that we call "tree farms" in the US. There is
little doubt that logging and lumbering must be important underpinnings
for the local economy.

During our previous stopover at Ladysmith, we had moored at the
government wharf. In 2005, the fishing fleet was "in" and there
appeared to be very little room available. There are a few private
marinas in Ladysmith Harbour, and we choose the marina at the Page
Point Inn. Seasoned boaters will remember the Page Point Inn by its
previous name, Manana Lodge. Manana Lodge was a traditional hangout for
some of the "Who's Who" in Pacific NW yachtsmen and celebrities, with
actor John Wayne a frequent visitor when he cruised the Pacific NW
aboard the "Wild Goose."

When approaching Page Point Inn, one immediately notices a group of
12-meter America's Cup boats moored at an outer float. The hulls are
boldly labeled, "America's Cup Sailing," and all are veterans of
previous America's Cup campaigns. "Dame Pattie" was the Australian
challenger for the Cup back in 1967, and she is constructed entirely of
wood. "Geronimo" is an aluminum 12-meter originally launched as
"America II" and once skippered by John Kolius. A third boat, with a
Russian name and markings was also present during our visit. America's
Cup Sailing is a private business operating from Page Point Inn, and
the vessels are available for instructional cruises or charters.
Corporations often book the America's Cup boats for 'team building'
events that combine a learning experience with friendly competition
between divisions or departments.

Lawrence Lambert and Simon Handley, both experienced 12-meter skippers,
operate America's Cup Sailing. As do so many people striving to earn a
living from a boating related enterprise, Simon wears several hats. In
addition to booking charters and instructing aboard the America's Cup
boats, Simon is also the wharfinger at Page Point Inn and can be
observed, some evenings, tending bar in the restaurant. "Dame Pattie"
does double duty as well- she has been fitted with deluxe interior
accommodations for up to eight persons and can be booked as a "suite"
through the Inn.

Once secured to the dock at Page Point Inn, Jan and I set out to do a
bit of exploring. It was a memorable experience, defined by one poor
choice but highlighted by another pleasant encounter. A five-minute
dinghy ride across the harbor would have carried us to Ladysmith, but
one of us (who shall remain nameless, but has a first initial of "J")
was excited about the opportunity to break out the folding bikes. "It
can't be that far," she said. "Look, there's the head of the bay, and I
can see some traffic on the other side. There has to be a road that
runs around the bay and into Ladysmith, so let's take the bikes." At
that same moment, a young man from a nearby sailboat was confidently
assembling his folding bike and starting up the dock. He noticed our
bikes, and mentioned he was riding in to Ladysmith as well. While the
three of us set out about the same time, the young sailor was in the
better shape and he was well out of sight in just a few minutes.

We would soon learn that the dinghy is a much-preferred option for
travelling to Ladysmith from Page Point Inn. The first half of the bike
ride is very pleasant. The two lane Brenton Page Road generally follows
the shoreline of Ladysmith Harbour, (called Oyster Harbour at the
extreme end). Many of the private residences just up-harbour from Page
Point Inn are situated on a bluff, with private docks below. We
marveled at the ingenious elevators and cable car systems installed to
transport people and provisions down the face of the cliff to the
moorages. We viewed small, picturesque farmsteads and an imaginative
summer camp complete with Indian tipis. At the head of the bay we
passed some very small sawmills, including one where the placement of
signage and some other clues appeared to indicate that the sawyer and
his family lived in the old farmhouse immediately across the road.

The second half of the bike ride was a nightmare. The "road" to
Ladysmith on the far side of the harbour proved to be Trans Canada Hwy
1=2E The posted speed limit is 90-kmph, or somewhere near 60 mph. We
pedaled along a shoulder that was fairly wide, in most places,
expecting to be arrested any moment. A thin line of paint separated our
idiots' pathway from certain death, and as each semi truck blew past we
would weave and wobble in the vortex of his wake. I voted for turning
around and going back, but my married man's single vote was nullified
by a married woman's vote-and-a-half so we pressed on. Just as I was
certain we must have been the first numbskulls ever to do anything but
drive a motor vehicle down Trans Canada 1, we came to a crossroads.
There was a crosswalk, and a "walk" light, designated for anyone
foolish enough to be walking or riding along the shoulder of the road!

After about an hour's ride, we arrived at Ladysmith. This quaint
downtown area appears to have stopped evolving about 1940, and it is
extremely picturesque. Most of the shops were closed for a Canadian
holiday when we arrived, but we wandered down to Transfer Point Park
where a major portion of the population had gathered to observe a
weight lifting contest. Area strongmen were competing to determine who
could lift one end of a Ford Mustang off the ground and hold it for the
longest time. (A set of "handles" protruding from under the car
provided enough leverage to reduce the lifted load to 665 pounds). The
winning lift lasted about 45 seconds, which surely exceeded any results
I could have achieved by at least 44.9.

We cycled back to Brenton Page Road, where my bike blew a tire and I
was reduced to walking the last mile or so back to Page Point Inn. Jan
has agreed that "next time" we will take the dinghy rather than bicycle
along the Trans Canada Hwy. (The young sailor characterized the
harrowing ride that took us about an hour one way as an "easy,
25-minute pedal").

Just a few hundred yards down the road from Page Point Inn, we
discovered JoVic Pottery. Had we skipped the ride to Ladysmith and only
visited JoVic, the day would still have been well spent. Jo and Vic
Duffhues create stoneware and Raku pottery in a studio adjacent to
their home. We have discovered that potters are often very interesting
people once engaged in conversation, and Mr. Duffhues fulfilled our
expectations. In the space of the half-hour we browsed through his
studio, we learned that Mr. Duffhues feeds the local quail twice a day.
"Sometimes I'll have 20 or 30 birds gather for a feeding," he said.

We noticed a dismounted sign board that read, "Brown Eggs for Sale" and
we inquired whether the Duffhues also raised chickens. "That's my
mother-in-law's enterprise," he said. "We invited my in-laws to build a
house on a portion of our property here, and it has worked out pretty
well. After they were settled in, my mother-in-law mentioned that she
had always wanted to raise chickens, ever since she was a little girl.
She asked if she could put up a chicken pen, and we said it would be
OK. What started off as a small pen somehow doubled in size almost
immediately, and it has continued growing ever since. My father-in-law
was drafted to build the world's most elaborate hen house. It's so
fancy we call it the 'Poulet Chalet'. When we have eggs for sale, we
set the sign out by the roadside but it never spends much time in the
weather. Several of our neighbors have learned to watch for that sign,
and they will buy up all the eggs we can offer."

We were treated to a demonstration of an obscure technique for
decorating pottery.
"Let me show you some potter's magic," suggested Duffhues. He stirred a
bucket of off-white slurry with a large wooden stick while he pointed
to a small cup and brush. "This material in the bucket called a slip,
and it's the coating we put on a clay pot so we can decorate it. In
that cup, I've got a mixture of tealeaves and pipe tobacco that has
been allowed to age for a few weeks. When I start to see some mold on
top of the mix, I know the tea leaves and tobacco are ready to make
trees."

"Make trees?" I exclaimed.

"Yes. This is something they discovered in England a couple of hundred
years ago. It was a way to make beautiful landscapes that resemble rows
of poplar trees without having to do thousands of individual brush
strokes. Common people could actually afford decorated pottery, and
because the technique was easily done it was profitable for the
potter." Duffhues dipped some material into the slip, and then touched
the brush loaded with the tea and tobacco mixture. Each dot of the
mixture ran down the slip, forming delicate and separate lines
connected to a central "trunk". The shapes did indeed resemble trees.
Small dots of the tea and tobacco mixture became low hedges, while
larger drops spread out to become tall trees.

We reduced the inventory a bit at JoVic's Pottery, and meeting the
potter will enable us to particularly appreciate even the modest pieces
we acquired. Our visit to the potter's was one of two highlights of
the day.

We enjoyed a very fine dinner at Page Point Inn. The 75-degree evening
suggested that we enjoy outdoor dining, and we were offered seats at a
table next to the outer edge of a deck overlooking the marina and
Ladysmith Harbour. The deck was built around the existing conifers,
with large tree trunks emerging through holes in the planking and
soaring skyward into the canopy of sweet smelling needles just above.
Had we dined indoors, we would have been seating in a dining room built
in the 1940's, with peeled- pole exposed post and beam construction.
Elegant Victorian cabinetry creates a refined counterpoint to the
rustic "lodge" construction, and the bookcases in the formal sitting
areas are said to contain a very fine collection of nautical tomes.

We ordered a calamari appetizer, and it was not until the waitress
served our calamari that we realized the extent of the absolute treat
we were about to experience. Clearly, the chef was off on a gastronomic
adventure and we were lucky enough to be along for the ride. Our
calamari was stir-fried, not breaded and deep fried as one customarily
expects.
There was only a limited amount of squid included in the appetizer, but
it was artfully mixed with onions, mushrooms, several types of mild
peppers, and a fabulous sauce that appeared to include sesame seeds.
After the sauce, the squid, and the vegetables were removed from the
flames, the chef crumbled some goat cheese over the works and it was
carried to our table in a sizzling little fry pan. Oh, my!

Our waitress appeared with a bread course to follow the appetizer. We
were sure the calamari would upstage anything as humble as bread, but
the bread serving was reluctant to be outdone. The hot, freshly baked
loaf was a treat to the nostrils as well as the tastebuds with a
slightly sweet, yeasty aroma that melts the staunchest "no-carb"
dieter's willpower. The butter was sweet and creamy, with chunks of
dried tomato whipped in.
Our only complaint with the bread is that we had only single loaf to
share, (although we are certain the Inn would have served a second loaf
if only we had cared to ask).

Jan ordered the breast of duck entr=E9e, while I selected the bison
ribs. Both dishes were attractively presented, surrounded by servings
of fresh vegetables. A savory serving of whipped potatoes was baked
inside a potato paste "crust" and shaped to resemble a clove of garlic.
Jan reports the duck was exceptional. (She fended off my fork's
attempted invasion of her entree with an extremely threatening and
possessive glance.) The bison ribs fell off the bone at the first touch
of a fork, but were perfectly cooked and not the least bit overdone. We
savored each bite as if it were a once-in-a-lifetime event- this was
one of those rare meals that transcends sustenance to become a special
experience.

We split a blueberry cr=E8me broulete with a carmelized Jim Beam crust
for desert. The cr=E8me brulet was merely extremely good, so a bit of a
relative let down from the rest of the dinner.

Our dinner bill, (with a few drinks, appetizer, and desert) was $111,
and worth every dime. We turned in early, preparing for a 7:15
departure to meet an 8:45 slack at Dodd Narrows. Thanks to our
"flexible" schedule, the high winds in the Strait of Georgia, and the
current flow through Dodd, we were inspired to make an alternate choice
that will be one of the most enjoyable days of our summer cruise, 2005.

Chuck, awesome posting sounds like a great place to go for a vacation. So
Ladymith harbour is in Canada ? I wish we had places here to buy farm fresh
eggs, but seems to be a dying thing here. Even a drive in the country I
never see any signs anymore. Thanks for the enjoyable read.

Ed
wrote in message
oups.com...
An account of our recent visit to Old Boat Goat's home port:

Ladysmith Harbour


We usually cruise with a loose, general plan, prepared to revise and
adapt the itinerary as wind and other considerations suggest. In the
summer of 2005, a combination of our own poor timing and high flows
through Dodd Narrows posed two alternatives. We could choose to face a
25-knot headwind running around Gabriola Island and then take the same
4-foot seas on the starboard beam while making for Nanaimo. Or, we
could "add" a stopover somewhere between Thetis Island and Dodd Narrows
and make a short, properly timed run through Dodd the following day. We
elected to layover in Ladysmith Harbour.

Ladysmith Harbour is home to a number of active sawmills. Some are
enormous facilities operated by international conglomerates churning
out millions of board feet of lumber per year. Others are small,
scrappy, family-run operations- often producing only cedar siding,
fence posts, or other specialized items. The logging industry must be
thriving in British Columbia, as there were log rafts anchored on both
sides of the channel. The diameter of the timber harvested here seems
much larger than the skinny poles we have come to accept as "mature
trees" from the wood lots that we call "tree farms" in the US. There is
little doubt that logging and lumbering must be important underpinnings
for the local economy.

During our previous stopover at Ladysmith, we had moored at the
government wharf. In 2005, the fishing fleet was "in" and there
appeared to be very little room available. There are a few private
marinas in Ladysmith Harbour, and we choose the marina at the Page
Point Inn. Seasoned boaters will remember the Page Point Inn by its
previous name, Manana Lodge. Manana Lodge was a traditional hangout for
some of the "Who's Who" in Pacific NW yachtsmen and celebrities, with
actor John Wayne a frequent visitor when he cruised the Pacific NW
aboard the "Wild Goose."

When approaching Page Point Inn, one immediately notices a group of
12-meter America's Cup boats moored at an outer float. The hulls are
boldly labeled, "America's Cup Sailing," and all are veterans of
previous America's Cup campaigns. "Dame Pattie" was the Australian
challenger for the Cup back in 1967, and she is constructed entirely of
wood. "Geronimo" is an aluminum 12-meter originally launched as
"America II" and once skippered by John Kolius. A third boat, with a
Russian name and markings was also present during our visit. America's
Cup Sailing is a private business operating from Page Point Inn, and
the vessels are available for instructional cruises or charters.
Corporations often book the America's Cup boats for 'team building'
events that combine a learning experience with friendly competition
between divisions or departments.

Lawrence Lambert and Simon Handley, both experienced 12-meter skippers,
operate America's Cup Sailing. As do so many people striving to earn a
living from a boating related enterprise, Simon wears several hats. In
addition to booking charters and instructing aboard the America's Cup
boats, Simon is also the wharfinger at Page Point Inn and can be
observed, some evenings, tending bar in the restaurant. "Dame Pattie"
does double duty as well- she has been fitted with deluxe interior
accommodations for up to eight persons and can be booked as a "suite"
through the Inn.

Once secured to the dock at Page Point Inn, Jan and I set out to do a
bit of exploring. It was a memorable experience, defined by one poor
choice but highlighted by another pleasant encounter. A five-minute
dinghy ride across the harbor would have carried us to Ladysmith, but
one of us (who shall remain nameless, but has a first initial of "J")
was excited about the opportunity to break out the folding bikes. "It
can't be that far," she said. "Look, there's the head of the bay, and I
can see some traffic on the other side. There has to be a road that
runs around the bay and into Ladysmith, so let's take the bikes." At
that same moment, a young man from a nearby sailboat was confidently
assembling his folding bike and starting up the dock. He noticed our
bikes, and mentioned he was riding in to Ladysmith as well. While the
three of us set out about the same time, the young sailor was in the
better shape and he was well out of sight in just a few minutes.

We would soon learn that the dinghy is a much-preferred option for
travelling to Ladysmith from Page Point Inn. The first half of the bike
ride is very pleasant. The two lane Brenton Page Road generally follows
the shoreline of Ladysmith Harbour, (called Oyster Harbour at the
extreme end). Many of the private residences just up-harbour from Page
Point Inn are situated on a bluff, with private docks below. We
marveled at the ingenious elevators and cable car systems installed to
transport people and provisions down the face of the cliff to the
moorages. We viewed small, picturesque farmsteads and an imaginative
summer camp complete with Indian tipis. At the head of the bay we
passed some very small sawmills, including one where the placement of
signage and some other clues appeared to indicate that the sawyer and
his family lived in the old farmhouse immediately across the road.

The second half of the bike ride was a nightmare. The "road" to
Ladysmith on the far side of the harbour proved to be Trans Canada Hwy
1. The posted speed limit is 90-kmph, or somewhere near 60 mph. We
pedaled along a shoulder that was fairly wide, in most places,
expecting to be arrested any moment. A thin line of paint separated our
idiots' pathway from certain death, and as each semi truck blew past we
would weave and wobble in the vortex of his wake. I voted for turning
around and going back, but my married man's single vote was nullified
by a married woman's vote-and-a-half so we pressed on. Just as I was
certain we must have been the first numbskulls ever to do anything but
drive a motor vehicle down Trans Canada 1, we came to a crossroads.
There was a crosswalk, and a "walk" light, designated for anyone
foolish enough to be walking or riding along the shoulder of the road!

After about an hour's ride, we arrived at Ladysmith. This quaint
downtown area appears to have stopped evolving about 1940, and it is
extremely picturesque. Most of the shops were closed for a Canadian
holiday when we arrived, but we wandered down to Transfer Point Park
where a major portion of the population had gathered to observe a
weight lifting contest. Area strongmen were competing to determine who
could lift one end of a Ford Mustang off the ground and hold it for the
longest time. (A set of "handles" protruding from under the car
provided enough leverage to reduce the lifted load to 665 pounds). The
winning lift lasted about 45 seconds, which surely exceeded any results
I could have achieved by at least 44.9.

We cycled back to Brenton Page Road, where my bike blew a tire and I
was reduced to walking the last mile or so back to Page Point Inn. Jan
has agreed that "next time" we will take the dinghy rather than bicycle
along the Trans Canada Hwy. (The young sailor characterized the
harrowing ride that took us about an hour one way as an "easy,
25-minute pedal").

Just a few hundred yards down the road from Page Point Inn, we
discovered JoVic Pottery. Had we skipped the ride to Ladysmith and only
visited JoVic, the day would still have been well spent. Jo and Vic
Duffhues create stoneware and Raku pottery in a studio adjacent to
their home. We have discovered that potters are often very interesting
people once engaged in conversation, and Mr. Duffhues fulfilled our
expectations. In the space of the half-hour we browsed through his
studio, we learned that Mr. Duffhues feeds the local quail twice a day.
"Sometimes I'll have 20 or 30 birds gather for a feeding," he said.

We noticed a dismounted sign board that read, "Brown Eggs for Sale" and
we inquired whether the Duffhues also raised chickens. "That's my
mother-in-law's enterprise," he said. "We invited my in-laws to build a
house on a portion of our property here, and it has worked out pretty
well. After they were settled in, my mother-in-law mentioned that she
had always wanted to raise chickens, ever since she was a little girl.
She asked if she could put up a chicken pen, and we said it would be
OK. What started off as a small pen somehow doubled in size almost
immediately, and it has continued growing ever since. My father-in-law
was drafted to build the world's most elaborate hen house. It's so
fancy we call it the 'Poulet Chalet'. When we have eggs for sale, we
set the sign out by the roadside but it never spends much time in the
weather. Several of our neighbors have learned to watch for that sign,
and they will buy up all the eggs we can offer."

We were treated to a demonstration of an obscure technique for
decorating pottery.
"Let me show you some potter's magic," suggested Duffhues. He stirred a
bucket of off-white slurry with a large wooden stick while he pointed
to a small cup and brush. "This material in the bucket called a slip,
and it's the coating we put on a clay pot so we can decorate it. In
that cup, I've got a mixture of tealeaves and pipe tobacco that has
been allowed to age for a few weeks. When I start to see some mold on
top of the mix, I know the tea leaves and tobacco are ready to make
trees."

"Make trees?" I exclaimed.

"Yes. This is something they discovered in England a couple of hundred
years ago. It was a way to make beautiful landscapes that resemble rows
of poplar trees without having to do thousands of individual brush
strokes. Common people could actually afford decorated pottery, and
because the technique was easily done it was profitable for the
potter." Duffhues dipped some material into the slip, and then touched
the brush loaded with the tea and tobacco mixture. Each dot of the
mixture ran down the slip, forming delicate and separate lines
connected to a central "trunk". The shapes did indeed resemble trees.
Small dots of the tea and tobacco mixture became low hedges, while
larger drops spread out to become tall trees.

We reduced the inventory a bit at JoVic's Pottery, and meeting the
potter will enable us to particularly appreciate even the modest pieces
we acquired. Our visit to the potter's was one of two highlights of
the day.

We enjoyed a very fine dinner at Page Point Inn. The 75-degree evening
suggested that we enjoy outdoor dining, and we were offered seats at a
table next to the outer edge of a deck overlooking the marina and
Ladysmith Harbour. The deck was built around the existing conifers,
with large tree trunks emerging through holes in the planking and
soaring skyward into the canopy of sweet smelling needles just above.
Had we dined indoors, we would have been seating in a dining room built
in the 1940's, with peeled- pole exposed post and beam construction.
Elegant Victorian cabinetry creates a refined counterpoint to the
rustic "lodge" construction, and the bookcases in the formal sitting
areas are said to contain a very fine collection of nautical tomes.

We ordered a calamari appetizer, and it was not until the waitress
served our calamari that we realized the extent of the absolute treat
we were about to experience. Clearly, the chef was off on a gastronomic
adventure and we were lucky enough to be along for the ride. Our
calamari was stir-fried, not breaded and deep fried as one customarily
expects.
There was only a limited amount of squid included in the appetizer, but
it was artfully mixed with onions, mushrooms, several types of mild
peppers, and a fabulous sauce that appeared to include sesame seeds.
After the sauce, the squid, and the vegetables were removed from the
flames, the chef crumbled some goat cheese over the works and it was
carried to our table in a sizzling little fry pan. Oh, my!

Our waitress appeared with a bread course to follow the appetizer. We
were sure the calamari would upstage anything as humble as bread, but
the bread serving was reluctant to be outdone. The hot, freshly baked
loaf was a treat to the nostrils as well as the tastebuds with a
slightly sweet, yeasty aroma that melts the staunchest "no-carb"
dieter's willpower. The butter was sweet and creamy, with chunks of
dried tomato whipped in.
Our only complaint with the bread is that we had only single loaf to
share, (although we are certain the Inn would have served a second loaf
if only we had cared to ask).

Jan ordered the breast of duck entrée, while I selected the bison
ribs. Both dishes were attractively presented, surrounded by servings
of fresh vegetables. A savory serving of whipped potatoes was baked
inside a potato paste "crust" and shaped to resemble a clove of garlic.
Jan reports the duck was exceptional. (She fended off my fork's
attempted invasion of her entree with an extremely threatening and
possessive glance.) The bison ribs fell off the bone at the first touch
of a fork, but were perfectly cooked and not the least bit overdone. We
savored each bite as if it were a once-in-a-lifetime event- this was
one of those rare meals that transcends sustenance to become a special
experience.

We split a blueberry crème broulete with a carmelized Jim Beam crust
for desert. The crème brulet was merely extremely good, so a bit of a
relative let down from the rest of the dinner.

Our dinner bill, (with a few drinks, appetizer, and desert) was $111,
and worth every dime. We turned in early, preparing for a 7:15
departure to meet an 8:45 slack at Dodd Narrows. Thanks to our
"flexible" schedule, the high winds in the Strait of Georgia, and the
current flow through Dodd, we were inspired to make an alternate choice
that will be one of the most enjoyable days of our summer cruise, 2005.

ed wrote:
Chuck, awesome posting sounds like a great place to go for a vacation. So
Ladymith harbour is in Canada ? I wish we had places here to buy farm fresh
eggs, but seems to be a dying thing here. Even a drive in the country I
never see any signs anymore. Thanks for the enjoyable read.

Ed

Ladysmith is on the East Coast of Vancouver Island, near the north end
of the Gulf Island archipelago. (Gulf Islands are the northern part of
the geographic formation that continues south to form the San Juans in
Washington). Next town south is Chemainus, and next town north is the
second biggest city on Vacouver Island, Nanaimo. Very pleasant region
indeed. This entire area is easily accessible to boats of almost any
size, provided that people are willing to watch the weather and that
smaller boats are willing to take small craft advisories rather
seriously. It can often be blowing ridiculously out in the Strait of
Georgia while very acceptable conditions contintue to prevail west of
Gabriola, Galiano, etc.

Boaters leaving Puget Sound and taking the Swinomish Channel from
Skagit Bay have a fairly well protected run all the way to Nanaimo.
(Rosario Strait and the short hop from Stuart Island to South Pender or
so notwhithstanding). Shhhh! It's a NW secret. :-)

Well, jeez, Chuck, you make the place sound so inviting I think I'd better
go have another look, see if we're talking about the same place ; )

All those big logs you saw in the harbour most likely came down from the
Queen Charlotte Islands on a self-loading/self-dumping barge. The barge is
basically a large open deck ship, with two tower cranes mounted on it. To
load, boom boats nudge the booms of logs against the hull and the cranes
load full length logs across the deck like cordwood. When they unload in
Ladysmith Harbour, actually in the open water just outside the harbour, its
quite the spectacle. Boaters in the vicinity mill around to watch and
traffic on the highway pulls over to see as the barge, over a 30 minute
period, is ballasted over to heel to an angle of about 45 degrees when the
timber will suddenly let go, pitching and sliding into the water en masse,
sending up explosion of white water like one would expect from a collapsing
glacier in Antarctica. It's amazing to see this large barge, relieved of its
load, right herself and pop right up like a duck. The pictures at this site
don't do it justice. http://www.kingcome.com/History.htm. Then the harbour
tugs spend a productive day shunting the bundles of logs into the inner
harbour where the mills are. Boaters around here know to stay out of the way
on "barge day".

There's quite a fleet of big old boats, hulks and mariners' dreams anchored
just inside the harbour, isn't there? Probably one of the last refuges on
the coast for those tired old sailors and wharf rats who can't afford
wharfage for their disintegrating old live-aboards. Most harbour communities
here have put restrictions on anchoring up (permanently) and live-aboards,
and have driven these poor boat people to extinction, for better or worse,
depending on your point of view.

Sorry about your bike ride. I could have been one of those trucks whizzing
by you. I would've honked had I known you were coming. The dinghy would have
been a wiser choice

It's a great pleasure for a windbag like me to watch those 12 meters on a
breezy day, chasing each other around the harbour with their sleek hulls,
tall rigs and trimmed sails. Quite nostalgic and beautiful.

Sorry all. Didn't intend to be this long-winded. Must be catching Chuck's
descriptive prose. Thanks Chuck for this piece. Nice to see home through
someone else's eyes.

Don

wrote in message
oups.com...
An account of our recent visit to Old Boat Goat's home port:

Ladysmith Harbour

We usually cruise with a loose, general plan, prepared to revise and
adapt the itinerary as wind and other considerations suggest. In the
summer of 2005, a combination of our own poor timing and high flows
through Dodd Narrows posed two alternatives. We could choose to face a
25-knot headwind running around Gabriola Island and then take the same
4-foot seas on the starboard beam while making for Nanaimo. Or, we
could "add" a stopover somewhere between Thetis Island and Dodd Narrows
and make a short, properly timed run through Dodd the following day. We
elected to layover in Ladysmith Harbour.

Ladysmith Harbour is home to a number of active sawmills. Some are
enormous facilities operated by international conglomerates churning
out millions of board feet of lumber per year. Others are small,
scrappy, family-run operations- often producing only cedar siding,
fence posts, or other specialized items. The logging industry must be
thriving in British Columbia, as there were log rafts anchored on both
sides of the channel. The diameter of the timber harvested here seems
much larger than the skinny poles we have come to accept as "mature
trees" from the wood lots that we call "tree farms" in the US. There is
little doubt that logging and lumbering must be important underpinnings
for the local economy.

During our previous stopover at Ladysmith, we had moored at the
government wharf. In 2005, the fishing fleet was "in" and there
appeared to be very little room available. There are a few private
marinas in Ladysmith Harbour, and we choose the marina at the Page
Point Inn. Seasoned boaters will remember the Page Point Inn by its
previous name, Manana Lodge. Manana Lodge was a traditional hangout for
some of the "Who's Who" in Pacific NW yachtsmen and celebrities, with
actor John Wayne a frequent visitor when he cruised the Pacific NW
aboard the "Wild Goose."

When approaching Page Point Inn, one immediately notices a group of
12-meter America's Cup boats moored at an outer float. The hulls are
boldly labeled, "America's Cup Sailing," and all are veterans of
previous America's Cup campaigns. "Dame Pattie" was the Australian
challenger for the Cup back in 1967, and she is constructed entirely of
wood. "Geronimo" is an aluminum 12-meter originally launched as
"America II" and once skippered by John Kolius. A third boat, with a
Russian name and markings was also present during our visit. America's
Cup Sailing is a private business operating from Page Point Inn, and
the vessels are available for instructional cruises or charters.
Corporations often book the America's Cup boats for 'team building'
events that combine a learning experience with friendly competition
between divisions or departments.

Lawrence Lambert and Simon Handley, both experienced 12-meter skippers,
operate America's Cup Sailing. As do so many people striving to earn a
living from a boating related enterprise, Simon wears several hats. In
addition to booking charters and instructing aboard the America's Cup
boats, Simon is also the wharfinger at Page Point Inn and can be
observed, some evenings, tending bar in the restaurant. "Dame Pattie"
does double duty as well- she has been fitted with deluxe interior
accommodations for up to eight persons and can be booked as a "suite"
through the Inn.

Once secured to the dock at Page Point Inn, Jan and I set out to do a
bit of exploring. It was a memorable experience, defined by one poor
choice but highlighted by another pleasant encounter. A five-minute
dinghy ride across the harbor would have carried us to Ladysmith, but
one of us (who shall remain nameless, but has a first initial of "J")
was excited about the opportunity to break out the folding bikes. "It
can't be that far," she said. "Look, there's the head of the bay, and I
can see some traffic on the other side. There has to be a road that
runs around the bay and into Ladysmith, so let's take the bikes." At
that same moment, a young man from a nearby sailboat was confidently
assembling his folding bike and starting up the dock. He noticed our
bikes, and mentioned he was riding in to Ladysmith as well. While the
three of us set out about the same time, the young sailor was in the
better shape and he was well out of sight in just a few minutes.

We would soon learn that the dinghy is a much-preferred option for
travelling to Ladysmith from Page Point Inn. The first half of the bike
ride is very pleasant. The two lane Brenton Page Road generally follows
the shoreline of Ladysmith Harbour, (called Oyster Harbour at the
extreme end). Many of the private residences just up-harbour from Page
Point Inn are situated on a bluff, with private docks below. We
marveled at the ingenious elevators and cable car systems installed to
transport people and provisions down the face of the cliff to the
moorages. We viewed small, picturesque farmsteads and an imaginative
summer camp complete with Indian tipis. At the head of the bay we
passed some very small sawmills, including one where the placement of
signage and some other clues appeared to indicate that the sawyer and
his family lived in the old farmhouse immediately across the road.

The second half of the bike ride was a nightmare. The "road" to
Ladysmith on the far side of the harbour proved to be Trans Canada Hwy
1. The posted speed limit is 90-kmph, or somewhere near 60 mph. We
pedaled along a shoulder that was fairly wide, in most places,
expecting to be arrested any moment. A thin line of paint separated our
idiots' pathway from certain death, and as each semi truck blew past we
would weave and wobble in the vortex of his wake. I voted for turning
around and going back, but my married man's single vote was nullified
by a married woman's vote-and-a-half so we pressed on. Just as I was
certain we must have been the first numbskulls ever to do anything but
drive a motor vehicle down Trans Canada 1, we came to a crossroads.
There was a crosswalk, and a "walk" light, designated for anyone
foolish enough to be walking or riding along the shoulder of the road!

After about an hour's ride, we arrived at Ladysmith. This quaint
downtown area appears to have stopped evolving about 1940, and it is
extremely picturesque. Most of the shops were closed for a Canadian
holiday when we arrived, but we wandered down to Transfer Point Park
where a major portion of the population had gathered to observe a
weight lifting contest. Area strongmen were competing to determine who
could lift one end of a Ford Mustang off the ground and hold it for the
longest time. (A set of "handles" protruding from under the car
provided enough leverage to reduce the lifted load to 665 pounds). The
winning lift lasted about 45 seconds, which surely exceeded any results
I could have achieved by at least 44.9.

We cycled back to Brenton Page Road, where my bike blew a tire and I
was reduced to walking the last mile or so back to Page Point Inn. Jan
has agreed that "next time" we will take the dinghy rather than bicycle
along the Trans Canada Hwy. (The young sailor characterized the
harrowing ride that took us about an hour one way as an "easy,
25-minute pedal").

Just a few hundred yards down the road from Page Point Inn, we
discovered JoVic Pottery. Had we skipped the ride to Ladysmith and only
visited JoVic, the day would still have been well spent. Jo and Vic
Duffhues create stoneware and Raku pottery in a studio adjacent to
their home. We have discovered that potters are often very interesting
people once engaged in conversation, and Mr. Duffhues fulfilled our
expectations. In the space of the half-hour we browsed through his
studio, we learned that Mr. Duffhues feeds the local quail twice a day.
"Sometimes I'll have 20 or 30 birds gather for a feeding," he said.

We noticed a dismounted sign board that read, "Brown Eggs for Sale" and
we inquired whether the Duffhues also raised chickens. "That's my
mother-in-law's enterprise," he said. "We invited my in-laws to build a
house on a portion of our property here, and it has worked out pretty
well. After they were settled in, my mother-in-law mentioned that she
had always wanted to raise chickens, ever since she was a little girl.
She asked if she could put up a chicken pen, and we said it would be
OK. What started off as a small pen somehow doubled in size almost
immediately, and it has continued growing ever since. My father-in-law
was drafted to build the world's most elaborate hen house. It's so
fancy we call it the 'Poulet Chalet'. When we have eggs for sale, we
set the sign out by the roadside but it never spends much time in the
weather. Several of our neighbors have learned to watch for that sign,
and they will buy up all the eggs we can offer."

We were treated to a demonstration of an obscure technique for
decorating pottery.
"Let me show you some potter's magic," suggested Duffhues. He stirred a
bucket of off-white slurry with a large wooden stick while he pointed
to a small cup and brush. "This material in the bucket called a slip,
and it's the coating we put on a clay pot so we can decorate it. In
that cup, I've got a mixture of tealeaves and pipe tobacco that has
been allowed to age for a few weeks. When I start to see some mold on
top of the mix, I know the tea leaves and tobacco are ready to make
trees."

"Make trees?" I exclaimed.

"Yes. This is something they discovered in England a couple of hundred
years ago. It was a way to make beautiful landscapes that resemble rows
of poplar trees without having to do thousands of individual brush
strokes. Common people could actually afford decorated pottery, and
because the technique was easily done it was profitable for the
potter." Duffhues dipped some material into the slip, and then touched
the brush loaded with the tea and tobacco mixture. Each dot of the
mixture ran down the slip, forming delicate and separate lines
connected to a central "trunk". The shapes did indeed resemble trees.
Small dots of the tea and tobacco mixture became low hedges, while
larger drops spread out to become tall trees.

We reduced the inventory a bit at JoVic's Pottery, and meeting the
potter will enable us to particularly appreciate even the modest pieces
we acquired. Our visit to the potter's was one of two highlights of
the day.

We enjoyed a very fine dinner at Page Point Inn. The 75-degree evening
suggested that we enjoy outdoor dining, and we were offered seats at a
table next to the outer edge of a deck overlooking the marina and
Ladysmith Harbour. The deck was built around the existing conifers,
with large tree trunks emerging through holes in the planking and
soaring skyward into the canopy of sweet smelling needles just above.
Had we dined indoors, we would have been seating in a dining room built
in the 1940's, with peeled- pole exposed post and beam construction.
Elegant Victorian cabinetry creates a refined counterpoint to the
rustic "lodge" construction, and the bookcases in the formal sitting
areas are said to contain a very fine collection of nautical tomes.

We ordered a calamari appetizer, and it was not until the waitress
served our calamari that we realized the extent of the absolute treat
we were about to experience. Clearly, the chef was off on a gastronomic
adventure and we were lucky enough to be along for the ride. Our
calamari was stir-fried, not breaded and deep fried as one customarily
expects.
There was only a limited amount of squid included in the appetizer, but
it was artfully mixed with onions, mushrooms, several types of mild
peppers, and a fabulous sauce that appeared to include sesame seeds.
After the sauce, the squid, and the vegetables were removed from the
flames, the chef crumbled some goat cheese over the works and it was
carried to our table in a sizzling little fry pan. Oh, my!

Our waitress appeared with a bread course to follow the appetizer. We
were sure the calamari would upstage anything as humble as bread, but
the bread serving was reluctant to be outdone. The hot, freshly baked
loaf was a treat to the nostrils as well as the tastebuds with a
slightly sweet, yeasty aroma that melts the staunchest "no-carb"
dieter's willpower. The butter was sweet and creamy, with chunks of
dried tomato whipped in.
Our only complaint with the bread is that we had only single loaf to
share, (although we are certain the Inn would have served a second loaf
if only we had cared to ask).

Jan ordered the breast of duck entrée, while I selected the bison
ribs. Both dishes were attractively presented, surrounded by servings
of fresh vegetables. A savory serving of whipped potatoes was baked
inside a potato paste "crust" and shaped to resemble a clove of garlic.
Jan reports the duck was exceptional. (She fended off my fork's
attempted invasion of her entree with an extremely threatening and
possessive glance.) The bison ribs fell off the bone at the first touch
of a fork, but were perfectly cooked and not the least bit overdone. We
savored each bite as if it were a once-in-a-lifetime event- this was
one of those rare meals that transcends sustenance to become a special
experience.

We split a blueberry crème broulete with a carmelized Jim Beam crust
for desert. The crème brulet was merely extremely good, so a bit of a
relative let down from the rest of the dinner.

Our dinner bill, (with a few drinks, appetizer, and desert) was $111,
and worth every dime. We turned in early, preparing for a 7:15
departure to meet an 8:45 slack at Dodd Narrows. Thanks to our
"flexible" schedule, the high winds in the Strait of Georgia, and the
current flow through Dodd, we were inspired to make an alternate choice
that will be one of the most enjoyable days of our summer cruise, 2005.

Around 8/17/2005 9:05 PM, wrote:

Seasoned boaters will remember the Page Point Inn by its
previous name, Manana Lodge. Manana Lodge was a traditional hangout for
some of the "Who's Who" in Pacific NW yachtsmen and celebrities, with
actor John Wayne a frequent visitor when he cruised the Pacific NW
aboard the "Wild Goose."

I didn't know Manana had changed it's name... Last time I stayed there
was about 8 or 9 years ago, and it was starting to look a little run
down. Good to hear that someone has taken new interest in the lodge.

Good writeup, Chuck. Sounds like you enjoyed your vacation!


--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

Around 8/18/2005 2:11 PM, wrote:

Boaters leaving Puget Sound and taking the Swinomish Channel from
Skagit Bay have a fairly well protected run all the way to Nanaimo.
(Rosario Strait and the short hop from Stuart Island to South Pender or
so notwhithstanding).

Considering I've traveled nearly the same route (usually ending up at
Telegraph Harbour on Thetis Is.) almost every year for the last 8 or so
years in a 14' open runabout, I'd have to agree that it is indeed "a
fairly well protected run"...

Shhhh! It's a NW secret. :-)

Bah - Don't go telling our secrets!



--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows