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#1
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Would a defective gasket be enough for a thermostat not to work properly?
I am suspecting my boat's (1990 Ford OMC Cobra 2.3L) overheating
problem comes from a defective thermostat. Today, I replaced the thermostat but the gasket that I was given does not fit the housing at all so I had to reuse the old worn gasket for now. I started the boat and it gradually went to over 200 degrees which means the problem is not fixed. I also noticed that steam was coming out of the thermostat housing around the old gasket. So obviously I don't have a 100% seal and I will need to find the proper gasket. However, I am wondering if the leaking gasket would be enough to cause the new thermostat not to work or if I simply misdiagnosed the problem in the first place and will have to look somewhere else? Impeller and water pump was replaced 2 months ago so I don't think this is the cause. Will have to also check the hoses and the water intake I suppose. Andre |
#2
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Melandre wrote: I am suspecting my boat's (1990 Ford OMC Cobra 2.3L) overheating problem comes from a defective thermostat. Today, I replaced the thermostat but the gasket that I was given does not fit the housing at all so I had to reuse the old worn gasket for now. I started the boat and it gradually went to over 200 degrees which means the problem is not fixed. I also noticed that steam was coming out of the thermostat housing around the old gasket. So obviously I don't have a 100% seal and I will need to find the proper gasket. However, I am wondering if the leaking gasket would be enough to cause the new thermostat not to work or if I simply misdiagnosed the problem in the first place and will have to look somewhere else? Impeller and water pump was replaced 2 months ago so I don't think this is the cause. Will have to also check the hoses and the water intake I suppose. Andre It may be OK for a pressurized cooling system to run at 200 degrees. What does your OM say? However, if you have steam leaking out from around the thermostat gasket you don't have proper pressurization and that will lower the boiling point of your coolant substantially. |
#4
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If you want to see if the thermostat is bad - toss the old one in a pan
of hot water on your stovetop and see if it opens when it reaches the desired temperature (use a candy thermometer to test the water temp if you need to). Normally, exact temps don't matter - the stat will ether pop open when the water starts getting really hot, or it'll never pop open if its bad, but sometimes they are just slow (and tus the candy thermometer is a good tool) |
#5
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Just because the impeller was replaced 2 months ago doesn't mean it's OK.
Put the boat in the water and pull the hose from the outdrive and briefly start the engine. It should pump a lot of water. You should know in under 1 minute. Also since you have run the engine HOT you may have done other damage such as headgasket, etc. "Melandre" wrote in message ... I am suspecting my boat's (1990 Ford OMC Cobra 2.3L) overheating problem comes from a defective thermostat. Today, I replaced the thermostat but the gasket that I was given does not fit the housing at all so I had to reuse the old worn gasket for now. I started the boat and it gradually went to over 200 degrees which means the problem is not fixed. I also noticed that steam was coming out of the thermostat housing around the old gasket. So obviously I don't have a 100% seal and I will need to find the proper gasket. However, I am wondering if the leaking gasket would be enough to cause the new thermostat not to work or if I simply misdiagnosed the problem in the first place and will have to look somewhere else? Impeller and water pump was replaced 2 months ago so I don't think this is the cause. Will have to also check the hoses and the water intake I suppose. Andre |
#6
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Melandre wrote: This is not a closed cooling system just a standard cooling system where the boat draws sal****er from the ocean. The manual says that the thermostat should start opening at a temp of 160F and be fully opened at around 180F. If I read that last sentence literally, it is simply describing the operation of the thermostat and not the recommeded operating temp for the engine. There is no reason the engine coolant temp could not or should not rise above the temperature at which the thermostat is fully opened. I'd be surprised to discover that you truly have raw water cooling. Are you sure you don't have two coolant circuits on your engine? One comprised of fresh water and antifreeze that circulates through the block and heads (after the thrermostat opens of course) and the other the raw water flow that is pumped through your heat exchanger to extract the heat from the engine coolant (and often through the exhaust manifoolds or risers) before carrying the extracted heat out through the exhaust hose? However, as you are operating in salt water, it is better to keep the engine coolant temp down to about 190 or less. At about 190 degrees, the suspended salts begin separating from seawater and will begin building up in your cooling circuit. Not a good thing. I plan to remove the thermostat housing (and the new thermostat) and reassemble the housing without a thermostat in it. This should allow me to determine if the problem is the thermostat or not. Without a thermostat, I am assuming that cooling water is drawn all the time so in therory, the boat should not overheat. If it does, it probably means that the problem is elsewhere (plugged hose, riser, water pump, impeller, etc..) A. On 17 Aug 2005 21:26:53 -0700, wrote: Melandre wrote: I am suspecting my boat's (1990 Ford OMC Cobra 2.3L) overheating problem comes from a defective thermostat. Today, I replaced the thermostat but the gasket that I was given does not fit the housing at all so I had to reuse the old worn gasket for now. I started the boat and it gradually went to over 200 degrees which means the problem is not fixed. I also noticed that steam was coming out of the thermostat housing around the old gasket. So obviously I don't have a 100% seal and I will need to find the proper gasket. However, I am wondering if the leaking gasket would be enough to cause the new thermostat not to work or if I simply misdiagnosed the problem in the first place and will have to look somewhere else? Impeller and water pump was replaced 2 months ago so I don't think this is the cause. Will have to also check the hoses and the water intake I suppose. Andre It may be OK for a pressurized cooling system to run at 200 degrees. What does your OM say? However, if you have steam leaking out from around the thermostat gasket you don't have proper pressurization and that will lower the boiling point of your coolant substantially. |
#7
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No, it is (unfortunately) just a standard cooling system (it is only
17.5' boat). Simply put, recently the boat starts hot (needle creeps to the 200F to 250F range) and after a random period of time (averaging 1 to 4 minutes) needle suddenly drops to around 150F and all is well and engine appears to stay at approx. 150F. If it was the impeller or clogged hoses, wouldn't the problem continues after 3-4 minutes of running? Andre |
#8
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Melandre wrote: No, it is (unfortunately) just a standard cooling system (it is only 17.5' boat). Simply put, recently the boat starts hot (needle creeps to the 200F to 250F range) and after a random period of time (averaging 1 to 4 minutes) needle suddenly drops to around 150F and all is well and engine appears to stay at approx. 150F. If it was the impeller or clogged hoses, wouldn't the problem continues after 3-4 minutes of running? Andre If you are dropping back to 150 degrees after an initial heat up to 200-250 degrees, it does indeed sound like the thermostat. Impellers, hoses, obstructions, etc are permanent situations, not self correcting. If you test the thermostat in a pan of water, (using a candy thermometer to note the temperature at which it is opening), and it appears to be opening within specs you might need to go to a thermostat with a lower rating. There's no good reason to heat up to 250 degrees if your engine is happily running at 150. |
#9
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Good point about the impeller. I am quickly findig out that in boating
one should not take anything for granted (except that it will cost us a lot of money!). Today, along with a proper gasket for the thermostat housing, I also bought a new impeller (just in case, if fine then I'll have one as a spare for next year). I'll be back at the marina after work tomorrow night to see if putting a proper gasket on the thermostat housing makes a difference (ie was that enough to cause the new thermostat not to work yesterday when I replaced it). A. On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:40:50 -0400, "Woodchuck" wrote: Just because the impeller was replaced 2 months ago doesn't mean it's OK. Put the boat in the water and pull the hose from the outdrive and briefly start the engine. It should pump a lot of water. You should know in under 1 minute. Also since you have run the engine HOT you may have done other damage such as headgasket, etc. "Melandre" wrote in message .. . I am suspecting my boat's (1990 Ford OMC Cobra 2.3L) overheating problem comes from a defective thermostat. Today, I replaced the thermostat but the gasket that I was given does not fit the housing at all so I had to reuse the old worn gasket for now. I started the boat and it gradually went to over 200 degrees which means the problem is not fixed. I also noticed that steam was coming out of the thermostat housing around the old gasket. So obviously I don't have a 100% seal and I will need to find the proper gasket. However, I am wondering if the leaking gasket would be enough to cause the new thermostat not to work or if I simply misdiagnosed the problem in the first place and will have to look somewhere else? Impeller and water pump was replaced 2 months ago so I don't think this is the cause. Will have to also check the hoses and the water intake I suppose. Andre |
#10
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Melandre wrote:
I am suspecting my boat's (1990 Ford OMC Cobra 2.3L) overheating problem comes from a defective thermostat. Today, I replaced the thermostat but the gasket that I was given does not fit the housing at all so I had to reuse the old worn gasket for now. I started the boat and it gradually went to over 200 degrees which means the problem is not fixed. I also noticed that steam was coming out of the thermostat housing around the old gasket. So obviously I don't have a 100% seal and I will need to find the proper gasket. However, I am wondering if the leaking gasket would be enough to cause the new thermostat not to work or if I simply misdiagnosed the problem in the first place and will have to look somewhere else? Impeller and water pump was replaced 2 months ago so I don't think this is the cause. Will have to also check the hoses and the water intake I suppose. Andre Automotive thermostats regulate engine temp above STP boiling, requiring a pressure seal. Boats do not, as high temps apparrantly cause scaling in raw water. Use a low temp t'stat, about 180 or so, I believe. If you want to see the someplace else, run the engine with no thermostat. How hot now? Terry K |
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