Rain water is getting into my cabin and mildewing my uphostery. It's not
clear exactly where it's coming from, and I think probably not deducible. I
think the shotgun approach is in order, and so I am going to have a swing at
recaulking windows, rub rail bolts, and deck fittings.

I am told that many of the fittings have nuts at the inaccessible inside
end, which will remain in place if the bolts are just backed out a little,
but will fall out if the bolts are removed completely.

I am thinking of hiring a retired friend who has extensive amateur
experience maintaining boats to do these jobs for me. (My Dad has
volunteered, bless him, but he has never been known to be handy and has no
background in this type of work.)

We're thinking of using a silicone caulk. I understand that some types are
better for marine use than others?

Incidentally, the headliners in the cabin, and the end-grain balsa in the
deck (in the few places it can be seen) all seem good - no water-staining
there. Some of the leaking seems to be windows, but I'm guessing from the
location of the (recently increased) wetness (only after rain) on the side
walls of the V-berth that it's the deck-hull join leaking. I've been told
that the bolt holes are the usual culprits in these boats, and that just
re-caulking the "seams" does not work.

(You wouldn't think rub rail bolt holes could leak very much, but I have
seen water streaming down the inside of the hull, in a few visible spots,
during a heavy rain in a heavy wind. And then, on other seemingly similar
occasions: nothing!)

I unscrewed one of the windows but couldn't then easily pry it off, and
didn't know how hard was safe to pull, so I recaulked the holes and put the
screws back in. (Not bolts for the windows.) The weatherstripping is a bit
ratty on the inside corners of the frames (outside corners of the glass),
and I'm thinking of attempting a "caulk" the windows rather than a
re-bedding.

Any suggestions for improving this plan of management?

(I will also work at ventilating the boat better. [And I do not
"hermetically" seal it over the winter.] But I still need to try to stop the
leaks.)

Thanks to all.

Charles

P.S. I don't have any close-up photos, but
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26/Trojan26Harvey01.JPG might help - from the larger page
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26/ksenia.html.

====

Charles T. Low
- remove "UN"
www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest
www.boatdocking.com
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat

====

Charles,

I don't know if I would use silicone for rebedding fittings. Check around
the internet. There is excellent information
on marine sealants and information on which to use where.


Tony Van

"Charles T. Low" wrote in message
...
Rain water is getting into my cabin and mildewing my uphostery. It's not
clear exactly where it's coming from, and I think probably not deducible.
I
think the shotgun approach is in order, and so I am going to have a swing
at
recaulking windows, rub rail bolts, and deck fittings.

I am told that many of the fittings have nuts at the inaccessible inside
end, which will remain in place if the bolts are just backed out a little,
but will fall out if the bolts are removed completely.

I am thinking of hiring a retired friend who has extensive amateur
experience maintaining boats to do these jobs for me. (My Dad has
volunteered, bless him, but he has never been known to be handy and has no
background in this type of work.)

We're thinking of using a silicone caulk. I understand that some types are
better for marine use than others?

Incidentally, the headliners in the cabin, and the end-grain balsa in the
deck (in the few places it can be seen) all seem good - no water-staining
there. Some of the leaking seems to be windows, but I'm guessing from the
location of the (recently increased) wetness (only after rain) on the side
walls of the V-berth that it's the deck-hull join leaking. I've been told
that the bolt holes are the usual culprits in these boats, and that just
re-caulking the "seams" does not work.

(You wouldn't think rub rail bolt holes could leak very much, but I have
seen water streaming down the inside of the hull, in a few visible spots,
during a heavy rain in a heavy wind. And then, on other seemingly similar
occasions: nothing!)

I unscrewed one of the windows but couldn't then easily pry it off, and
didn't know how hard was safe to pull, so I recaulked the holes and put
the
screws back in. (Not bolts for the windows.) The weatherstripping is a bit
ratty on the inside corners of the frames (outside corners of the glass),
and I'm thinking of attempting a "caulk" the windows rather than a
re-bedding.

Any suggestions for improving this plan of management?

(I will also work at ventilating the boat better. [And I do not
"hermetically" seal it over the winter.] But I still need to try to stop
the
leaks.)

Thanks to all.

Charles

P.S. I don't have any close-up photos, but
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26/Trojan26Harvey01.JPG might help - from the larger
page
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26/ksenia.html.

====

Charles T. Low
- remove "UN"
www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest
www.boatdocking.com
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat

====




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"Charles T. Low" wrote in message
news:nLksc.14493
snip
We're thinking of using a silicone caulk. I understand that some types are
better for marine use than others?

snip

I've seen the regular posters in the CL boats newsgroup recommend 3M 4200.
I understand it can be removed easier next time you re-bed all fittings. I
haven't used it myself.

On Mon, 24 May 2004 07:11:37 -0400, "Charles T. Low"
wrote:
(You wouldn't think rub rail bolt holes could leak very much, but I have
seen water streaming down the inside of the hull, in a few visible spots,
during a heavy rain in a heavy wind. And then, on other seemingly similar
occasions: nothing!)

I unscrewed one of the windows but couldn't then easily pry it off, and
didn't know how hard was safe to pull, so I recaulked the holes and put the
screws back in. (Not bolts for the windows.) The weatherstripping is a bit
ratty on the inside corners of the frames (outside corners of the glass),
and I'm thinking of attempting a "caulk" the windows rather than a
re-bedding.

Any suggestions for improving this plan of management?

==============================================

Here are a couple of tips that have worked for me when sealing deck
bolts:

1. Lightly countersink the top of the bolt holes. This space will
then become filled with bedding compound during the initial
reassembly. Several days later when you torque down on the bolt in
earnest, the bedding compound will become compressed into the
countersunk area creating an O-Ring type seal around the threads.
This assumes #2:

2. Prevent the bolt from turning when you torque it down. This is
easier said than done if the nut is inaccessible of course. When the
threads turn they tend to pull the bedding compound loose.

Certain bedding compounds clean up with white vinegar, others respond
nicely to WD-40 (mineral spirits). My technique is to mask off the
surrounding areas, lightly reassemble everything, cleanup the initial
squeeze out with vinegar or WD40, remove masking tape, wait several
days, torque down on fittings, wait for secondary squeeze out to
harden (several more days), remove with razor blade or utility knife.

3M-4200 or M101 would me my choice.

But for much more expert advise post to rec.boats.building
about which to use.

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

3M-4200 or M101 would me my choice.

But for much more expert advise post to rec.boats.building
about which to use.


PS: 3M-4200 is every bit as good as 5200 except it isn't as adhesive.
If the parts never have to come off again 5200 is OK. Otherwise
4200.

Thanks, guys. I think I'm not seeing all of the posts, but appreciate the
good info.

Charles

====

Charles T. Low
- remove "UN"
www.boatdocking.com/BDPhoto.html - Photo Contest
www.boatdocking.com
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26 - my boat

====

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

3M-4200 or M101 would me my choice.

But for much more expert advise post to rec.boats.building
about which to use.