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*JimH*
 
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"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be lifted
to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed. There are
filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed. Except for
lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip in mufflers
but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop on
the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a do it
yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with a
switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


  #2   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be lifted
to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed. There are
filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed. Except for
lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip in mufflers
but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop on
the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a do
it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with a
switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim a
noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is being
sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to bring
the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent this
boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.


  #3   Report Post  
Stanley Barthfarkle
 
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That trailer needs a forward keel roller to protect the front part of the
hull from hitting the trailer frame crosspiece when loading.


"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be
lifted to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed.
There are filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed.
Except for lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip
in mufflers but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull
exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop
on the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a
do it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with
a switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim
a noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is
being sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to
bring the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent
this boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.



  #4   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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"Stanley Barthfarkle" wrote in message
...
That trailer needs a forward keel roller to protect the front part of the
hull from hitting the trailer frame crosspiece when loading.



That was not my question.

There is plenty of protection on the trailer from keeping that from
happening.


  #5   Report Post  
Bill McKee
 
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"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be
lifted to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed.
There are filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed.
Except for lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at
slip in mufflers but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull
exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop
on the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a
do it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with
a switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim
a noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is
being sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to
bring the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent
this boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.




Boat may not be as loud as you think it will be. I have thru hull exhaust.
Jetboat. And the new 350 MPI engine is a lot quieter than the former 351W.
so it may be with a 260 HP motor may not be loud at all. Drive it an try
it. Look at some of the tourny ski boats and you can see the exhaust
muffler system. Maybe you could find a wrecked skiboat and buy the muffler.




  #6   Report Post  
JamesgangNC
 
Posts: n/a
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Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks pretty
old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the top of my
head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be
lifted to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed.
There are filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed.
Except for lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip
in mufflers but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull
exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop
on the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a
do it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with
a switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim
a noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is
being sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to
bring the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent
this boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.



  #7   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the past
25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?


  #8   Report Post  
JamesgangNC
 
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That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k estimate
is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture. Does sound like you're
getting a decent price on it. I don't need an optometrist. The
construction techniques employed about that time do not particularly make
for a long life expectancy. It has nothing to do with the hours on the
motor. The encapsulated wood is usually well soaked after the first 5 years
or so. I would check the transom, floor, and if possible stringers closely.
It's not a bargain of you find that the transom is rotted.

And I did answer your question on switchable exhaust. It was in my prior
post.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the
past 25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?



  #9   Report Post  
*JimH*
 
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Default


"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k
estimate is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture. Does sound
like you're getting a decent price on it. I don't need an optometrist.
The construction techniques employed about that time do not particularly
make for a long life expectancy. It has nothing to do with the hours on
the motor. The encapsulated wood is usually well soaked after the first 5
years or so. I would check the transom, floor, and if possible stringers
closely. It's not a bargain of you find that the transom is rotted.

And I did answer your question on switchable exhaust. It was in my prior
post.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the
past 25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?





  #10   Report Post  
Don White
 
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*JimH* wrote:
"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...

That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k
estimate is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture. Does sound
like you're getting a decent price on it. I don't need an optometrist.
The construction techniques employed about that time do not particularly
make for a long life expectancy. It has nothing to do with the hours on
the motor. The encapsulated wood is usually well soaked after the first 5
years or so. I would check the transom, floor, and if possible stringers
closely. It's not a bargain of you find that the transom is rotted.

And I did answer your question on switchable exhaust. It was in my prior
post.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
hlink.net...

Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the
past 25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?


Hold on a sec...weren't you the same elitist non-boater who trashed me
for spending "my life's savings on a 19' sailboat? Now you turn around
and consider buying a similar sized boat for the same price.
My my...!


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