Charles T. Low wrote:
I had a little look at that link and am having trouble following the
description - not the type of thing to read in a quick scan!

In the meantime, the engine is still intermittently running rough (when run
at low speed on hot days for 20-30 minutes, clears up in a few minutes under
higher load...). I have found corrosion inside the distributor cap and will
be replacing that, then reassessing - the number of possible causes that I
have come up with is a little staggering - and my mechanic agrees!

I also favour having a look inside the carburetor, but mechanic is hesitant,
saying they're often never the same after, in his experience ... hmm...

====

Charles T. Low
www.boatdocking.com


One should expect it to be somewhat better, and in no qualified
hands, ever the worse for care.

My old zenith carb was worn so bad that the throttle shaft rattled
on idle, its' fibre end washers worn way out, delivering varying
amounts of vacuum leak into the intake manifold, which really made
life with the old girl an erratic thing, to say the least,
particularly when lower power settings were needed. As well, a
somewhat sticky needle valve must have been able to stick either
open or closed, mysteriously and capreciously. It's better, now.

Fixing a carburettor is an essential basic automotive and boating
skill which, thanks to induction fuel injection and computerised
engine control, is becoming a skill of the past. If your mech is
dubious, you need a real mech.

A couple of small rubber "O" rings on the ends of the shaft,
retained with a little brass snare wire seems to have steadied the
engine up considerable.

Trry K


====

"Bowgus" wrote in message
...

About that ball/spring thing ... it's function is still not clear to me,
but
... it's purpose seems to be to balance the cold water bypass to the 2
sides
of the (e.g. my V6) engine. There's a pic of it ... it's at the top of the
lower (bottom) diagram ... Warm Manifold System. So if one manifold is
cold,
maybe the thermostat is not opening as soon as it should (engine is
actually
overheating) and cold water is being directed more to one manifold (by the
tee valve assembly) rather than to both?

The link ...
http://www.perfprotech.com/home/tech...oling-tips.htm

Hey, just thinking out loud here :-)